Question about Nat'l Parks in Malawi
 

I've also posted on lonely planet, but has anyone visited both Nyika Nat'l Park and Vwaza Marsh Wildlife Reserve? If so, I'd like to hear which you preferred.
Also, if anyone has done a horseback riding safari in Nyika I'd love to hear some feedback on this.
thanks in advance.

I've never seen anyone mention them, but maybe someone is holding their trip report secret.

I've been to Malawi, but only around Lilongwe and the lake. Nyika is up north (I've never even heard of Vwaza) and I only stopped in Malawi to spend a few days on the lakeside beach after safaris in Botswana and Zambia.

One other park that's close to Lilongwe, and which you may not have thought of since its in a different country, is South Luangwa in Zambia, which is within bus distance of Lilongwe, and a lot of people visit South Luangwa from Malawi. It also has excellent backpackers lodging (Flatdogs). But, South Luangwa is more traditional (with all the usual suspects) and Nyika, from what I recall, has lots of different antelopes, especially good for roan antelopes.

I think there's a Bradt guide to Malawi (I used the Lonely Planet, and they don't even make the stand alone Malawi book anymore).

Sorry I can't be more help, but thought I'd throw in that I have heard Nyika is don't-miss. I lived in Malawi last summer (for work and didn't make it up far enough) and my housemate showed me photos of Nyika and it was really beautiful. My aunt also went up north, not quite to Nyika but just near it, in Livingstonia which is up on a cliff overlooking the lake. Her photos were just spectacular.

I am going back to Malawi for a year in a few weeks, and Nyika is at the top of my list of things to do! Hope you have a good time.

Thanks Michael & MP -

MP - Thanks for that info - it does look stunning in the pictures and I can't find anything negative about it so it's in the lead right now (I'm definitely going to Liwonde but want to see another area other than Liwonde and the lake while I'm there). If you happen to visit it anytime soon and you have internet access it would be great to hear your feedback! Good luck in Malawi!

Michael - Yeah, I was originally thinking I would stay at flatdogs for three nights, but after getting the Bradt guide yesterday, I think I've decided that with so much to see in Malawi, I'll just spend all my time there - there's definitely way more to do than I can begin to fit in in ten days.

MP -
If you happen to check this thread again...
The camps in Nyika are currently shut down right now due to a dispute over ownership. Hopefully it will re-open while you are working there. You can still do day trips but it isn't going to be feasible for me.

Did you or any of your friends/colleagues do the three/four day trek up Mt Mulanje by any chance? If so, curious what your thoughts were. Thanks!

I visited both parks in 2005 and had a wonderful time.
Nyika is a spectacular place and the horseback riding is unbelievable.
It's so much different approaching game on horseback becaseu the animals do not have any fear. You can get within an arm's length of zebras, eland and giant kudu.
Chelinda is a magical place and very unique -- cool and verdant. Makes a great combo with other very different safari areas in Malawi or South Luangwa in Zambia, which is very nearby.
Vwaza was nice, but much less unique. Good location next to a marsh where you can see game like hippos, eles, etc.
I also understand that the Malawi government is trying to force out David Foote, who had the concession to run Chelinda, in favor of Arab investors.
He's a wonderful host, but I don't know what the current status is.. ..

The Malawian government has taken over both Nyika Nat'l Park and Vwaza Marsh Wildlife Reserve. The Footes were forced out in January, and as reported in the local newspaper, all part of a scheme wherein the Minister of Tourism took a bribe from the Arab "investor." She has been reassigned to another Cabinet Post, but the damage remains, despite the best efforts of the British High Commission to rectify the damage. Both parks are truly magical spots, but now will go to ruin. Many of us are heartbroken about this, but the government's decision is final (and pigheaded and blatent).

tripster & stepstra -
Thanks for your replies and the info. That is really sad about the parks. what a waste...