Project: Get Kavey back to Africa!
 

It’s been far too long since Pete and I have been on an African safari and we’re
hoping (longing) to return this year.

Our budget is very tiiiight so I’m asking for some Fodorite help to work out which might be our best option to maximise budget/ experience.

Some useful info on our preferences and situation:-

* We are time-rich and cash-poor so what we’re looking for are options that allow us to spend as long as we possibly can on safari for as little as possible.

* We will probably have enough airmiles with Virgin to cover at least one return ticket in economy so there is a financial advantage to travelling to destinations served by Virgin but this isn’t absolute and if we can get a much better deal by going elsewhere we will.

* We’ve done and enjoyed self-drive safaris staying in self-catering accommodation in South Africa and fly-in safaris in private camps in Namibia and Botswana. We’d be happy to do any of these again.

* We haven’t done a self-drive in Namibia nor been to Etosha or the Northern parts of the country so this is an option we’d enjoy. Zambia’s been on the wishlist for several years so that’s a very strong contender. We’re also open to East Africa (attracted to fly-camps/ mobile safaris in particular) as Pete hasn’t been and I’ve only limited experience there.

* We’re both really into photography.

* We do not want to be part of a group no matter how small.

* We prefer tented accommodation to solid-built lodges/ chalets etc.

* We very strongly prefer accommodations with small room/ tent numbers.

* We’re not looking for absolute luxury but an ensuite toilet is a high priority. The shower doesn’t have to be ensuite though we’d prefer it. We do need beds rather than cots or floormats.

* As we’re both digital photographers we need to have access to electricity in our accommodation and/ or vehicle as we’ll need to recharge various batteries regularly.

* Neither of us can tolerate hot climates so off-season is not an option if the temperatures are over 30 degrees C.

* Whilst we do like walking activities we would not be suited to an all-walking safari as our fitness levels aren’t good enough not to mention a couple of other health issues.

* We loved the mekoro in Botswana. We’re sure we’d enjoy canoe-based safaris too.

* Like many here, we really enjoy seeing some of the smaller and often-overlooked animals and birds but would still like to go somewhere with some of the bigger favourites too – we particularly love elephants, leopards, cheetahs, rhinos and wild dogs.

I’m sure I’ll think of additional requirements and preferences so please skim through the thread as it grows to locate those.

Thanks very much indeed for any help and ideas.
Kavey

Botswana mobile safari?

The wilderness camps in Kgalagadi, especially Kalahari Tented Camp, are very nice, can be visited in a 2WD car (at least three of the wilderness camps can be accessed without 4WD), but the game is not as plentiful, or diverse, in Kgalagadi as in, for example, Kruger or Hluhuwe.

But, if you fly to Upington (an hour from JNB), you can drive from Upington to Kgalagadi, spend several days in the park (it really is beautiful) and then drive into Namibia and to Etosha (the lodges in the park are large, so you'd need to find an affordable option outside the park).

Hi, Kavey! Don't have any get-back-to-Africa advice, but wanted to say hi! Leaving tomorrow for 11-day med cruise ... (popped into Africa forum for Alex tips). I'll be sending you figgie vibes to get to Africa!

Hi Andrea! Have a wonderful trip and do drop me a line when you get home to tell me all about it!

Hari, any more information on that option? Suggested operators to check out or itineraries that seem to be particularly good value?

Thit_Cho, the self-drive Namibia/ South Africa option is definitely high on the list. Can you tell me more about your thoughts on various Etosha camps/ lodges in terms of advantages, disadvantages and costs?

THANKS EVERYONE!

Best of luck. I haven't even left for my trip yet (May 2007) and I'm already trying to budget a return trip for next year.

Juliet

Hi Kavey! As you know, I have absolutely no advice on a budget safari, but just wanted to say - you go, girl!

I'll bet there are a few out there for you (as you deserve to go again!) and if anyone can find them, the incredible people in Fodorsville can!

Is this the type of place you are looking for:

http://www.wolwedans.com/index.html

or is it too pricey?

I would recommend June as a good time to visit Namibia, I spent that month there in 2003, 2004, and 2006 and found the weather very nice.

Kavey

On a smallish (that in itself is relative) budget, one could do a good self-drive in Namibia. We did one in 2005 and loved most aspects of the trip. We got http://www.namibian.org to organise it for us. They are very efficient and can tailor trips for all budgets.

Our itinerary was -

Windhoek (1n with friends)
Sossulvlei (2n at Desert Homestead. Nice lodge if slight large and impersonal. Superb food.)
Swakopmund (2n at Beach Lodge. Would highly recommend it if you get booking for the Luxury Suite)
Damaraland (2n at Bambatsi Ranch. Average owner run cottages. Accommodation is nothing to rave about, but the owners are lovely and do everything to make you feel at home.)
Etosha (3n at government accommodation at Okakuejo. Accommodation is average-poor, but the waterhole is awesome)
Etosha (2n at Etosha Aoba lodge. Nice owner run lodge. Friendly owners. Superb food.)
Waterberg (2n. I'd miss it completely)

Let me know if you need more details about costs, tips etc.

The mobiles in Botswana have others on them besides you. Don't know if that would be acceptable.

Oops, posted too soon.

Check out Nyamera's thread for wise spending options. Hers focuses on Kenya, I think.

Wolwedans? Haven't you been there. Was that the place that had you in tears when it was time to leave?

I'm sure you'll make something work.

Kavey, the lodges within Etosha (Okaukeujo, Halali and Namutomi -- I likely misspelled at least two of the names) are very utilitarian -- comfortable, clean, decent cooking facilities, nice locations, but not very uplifting. But, they are very affordable, and you could spend a week for the price of one night at a top private lodge. I spent one night at each, working my way through the park, and to me, Okaukeujo was the best -- with the best waterhole and best location. But, the lodges are busy and you do not have the same sense of place as you do at a smaller camp in the Delta or the Namib. But, there is a lot of wildlife -- we easily saw rhino, lion, cheetah, elephant and all the general game (there is no buffalo, wild dog or hippo in the park).

The smaller camps in Kgalagadi are much nicer, with Kalahari Tented Camp being very similar to the Wilderness five-paw lodge (but you will have to cook for yourself, and each tent has an adjacent, private cooking tent). Check out www.sanparks.org

I would not hesitate to repeat a trip to either Kgalagadi or Etosha (but you would have to be prepared for their respective weaknesses -- sporadic game in Kgalagadi and underwhelming lodging within Etosha). If you do visit Kgalagadi, from your requirements, you'd be happier at the wilderness camps than at the larger camps (Twee Rivieren, Nossob and Mata Mata). You can also see availability and pricing on the sanparks.org website.

Michael

Hi Kavey,
How about a canoe trip around the Mana Pools area in Zimb? Although the one that I'm doing is a group mobile thing 4max. they may be willing to do private. Ours is Wilderness run but there are others and they're relatively inexpensive. The camps at the start and end of the trip look very nice as well.
Tuli block had some interesting places if you wanted to loop up from S. Africa. As I'm out of time, I'll continue later.

Julimbo
As so many of us here know only too well, once the africa bug bites you're infected forever...:D

Lynda
Thanks, that's what I'm hoping!

Tuckeg
I adore Wolwedans! I have stayed there once in 2001 and once in 2004. I believe my raving ramblings about it have been responsible for many a Fodorite visit. I know the Lodge will be out of our budget but your post reminds me to check the prices for the Dune Camp there.

Amol
Thanks for the recommendation/ link. Self-drive in Namibia is definitely an option for us as we enjoy self-driving, we don't mind self-catering (especially if there are inexpensive camp cafeterias/ restaurants to supplement our efforts) and we would certainly like to revisit NamibRand, Damaraland plus new areas.

Atravelynn
We'd definitely prefer to avoid groups if possible.
Will search for Nyamera's thread.
And yes, you're quite right about Wolwedans.

Thit_Cho
Thank you so much, this is very helpful indeed.

Cybor
Look forward to any additional information you might have, especially any specific operators and itineraries that might be less expensive.

I am fairly sure Wilderness Safaris will be too expensive for us this time.

I know I haven't specified an actual budget, we're not entirely sure yet. As a very rough starting point (but we know we may have to revise upwards) we'd like to keep it to £1500-£2000 between us excluding international airfares.

THANK YOU!

Hi Kavey. I know you've been to Kruger before, but the park is so enormous and there is so much to see there and the prices are so reasonable that if you are "time-rich and cash-poor" as you say then I would urge you to consider it. The north of the park is practically empty of people. I would especially recommend the tents at Punda Maria in the far north (number 5 has a great view) -- hardwood floors, very nice bathroom, kitchen on the deck, etc. In addition to Punda Maria I would highly recommend Mopani camp and especially bungalow number 49 there, which has a gorgeous position overlooking the water. There is also a very small tented camp called Tamboti which is highly recommended (they were full so we were not able to stay there). These places are preposterously reasonable. If you haven't already done so, you should check out Nico & Yvonne's trip report and photos -- Yvonne is a Dutch photographer and really got some absolutely stunning photos and incredible sightings during their many weeks in the park. Their report is long but the info on particular driving routes for certain species, and accommodations, etc. is excellent. You can see it here.
http://www.sanparks.org/forums/viewt...&start=225

I would also consider the other SANParks especially Kgalagadi which we have not yet been to but is on our to do list -- there is tons of info on the sanparks.org website on each park with photos of the accommodations, etc.

The other place we loved is Tanzania and would go back to Serengeti in a heartbeat. I think central Serengeti cannot be beat for concentration of game. We found it great value for money although I understand park fees have increased since we were there in 2005. Some of the lodges in & around Serengeti are very reasonably priced, especially Ndutu, Serengeti Seronera, and Lobo. We got great pricing from Good Earth and someone else just posted a trip report on them too. Check out their website at goodearthtours.com -- you can do any of their itineraries as a private one with your own driver-guide for only $90 extra, departing & returning any day you want, and can customize any of them to the exact accommodations and length of time you want.

I think Serengeti and Kruger both have undeserved reputations for being crowded. In each place, I would say at 90% of our sightings we were the only vehicle. There was only one leopard sighting in Kruger where there were many vehicles and one leopard sighting in Serengeti where there were lots too.

We loved Botswana and Kwando camps and had fantastic experiences and photo-ops there, but the only semi-reasonable pricing seems to be in the hottest time of year which you are looking to avoid, and even the low season prices are very high relative to South Africa and Tanzania.

Cannot speak to Namibia and Zambia as they are still on our list.

I think Thit_Cho's recommendations are about the best there will be for budget lodging and the chance to explore a fascinating area that is not heavily trafficked (Kgalagadi) with a proven gem in Etosha. If the Etosha camps are not as appealing you could also drive/explore Kgalagadi and then head to Mashatu Tented Camp in Tuli Block for your intimate small camp experience. More money than National Park camps but at $200 pppn considerably less than most small private camps and perhaps an affordable good option to end with a few nights in big game country.

Kavey - No good advice, but many good wishes you'll pull it off!

Kavey,
Your "raving ramblings" are why we'll be staying at Wolwedans in September :D

If it helps at all, the budget for our upcoming 2 week self drive trip to Namibia is around $5000 for the two of us. This includes a 2WD sedan, moderately priced accomodations (no Wilderness Safaris camps and Wolwedans is the most expensive place we'll be staying at), full board (except in Swakopmund), and the majority of our excursions. It does not include fuel (because I haven't really figured out how much that would be), drinks, tips, and a few meals. The properties we've booked range in size from the smallest being 1 unit to the largest being 20 units. In researching Namibia, there seemed to be a lot of options for small, moderately priced lodges/camps. However, I don't have any specific recommendations near Etosha and in northern Namibia as our itinerary focuses on a more southerly route. The Cardboard Box website www.namibian.org was very helpful in my planning.

Before deciding on Namibia, I strongly considered Zimbabwe and was looking at www.natureways.com for a canoe safari. You'll want to look at Odyssey Trails which is the "luxury" version.

Good luck with your search!

Etosha NP is in the midst of renovating their lodges, so by the time you're ready to go, they should be in much better shape than what was experienced by our fellow Fodorites.

Lisa,
If we do opt for self-drive I'm certainly interested in the more Northern reaches of Kruger which I've read good things about recently right here on Fodors.

I'd also be happy to return to Ithala, Hluhluwe and Umfolozi. Not sure about Ndumo - loved it but we didn't self-drive and I'm not sure how well it's suited to that. Besides which the roads to reach the park were a b*tch!

Will def. check out that trip report - thank you!

Kgalagadi does interest me so I'm going to look into it more, for sure.

I'll check out the itineraries on goodearth's website - hoping they have some guide prices posted too.

PB,
Etosha does appeal and so does Kgalagadi. But I've seen programmes and articles on Mashatu Tented Camp in Tuli Block before and thanks for reminding me to look into it.

Does anyone have any pricing info on any of these options? I know I can look them up but am always appreciative of any help narrowing my research down! :D

Favor, Thank you!

Patty,
I'll keep all my virtual fingers crossed that it's still just as magical for you as it has been for us. I know that there have been some management changes at the lodge and am keen to hear back on whether the replacements are keeping up the good work. The staff were one of the key strengths at Wolwedans (along with the landscape, the chalets, the views, the wilderness) and it's the one thing that's hardest to track in terms of how staff changes impact experience.

Thank you SO MUCH for posting a guideline cost for your Namibia itinerary. I'm assuming that's US dollars, right?

ShayTay, good to know - thank you!

:D