Photography at Etosha's Water Holes
 

In a few weeks I'll be heading to Namibia with several days planned for doing a self-drive of Etosha. With photography in mind, I was wondering if one must stay in the car at all times at the water holes or whether there is the opportunity to step outside. Are there any blinds?

There are a number of waterholes around park where you can't get out of the car.

However, when I was there, the restcamp areas (Namutoni, Halali and Okaukuejo) had waterholes that you can walk to and there were seats. Okaukuejo was accessible (and floodlit) at night too as it's right next to some of the cabins. It can be busy with tourists but it's pretty amazing.

Lynneb, thanks for your reply! I kind of thought that would be the case. Unfortunately, I was a bit slow on reservations for the rest camps so I'll miss the night views. Steve

Keep watching for cancelations. I have stayed at all three restcamps, as well as many high end camps in many of the other major African national parks, and the waterhole at Okakuejo is perhaps my favorite place to pass an evening on safari. Its a lot better than the "night" drives at the high end camps, which usually return by 10:00, at the latest. I was able to stay at Okakuejo til the early morning and the action did not let up.

Hi sdb2- you won't need to get out of your car to take great photos or film at the waterholes of Etosha. I self drove the eastern end of the park over 5 days in early Sept last year. I think the key is patience. We set off kitted up with morning and afternoon tea but returned to a rest camp or picnic area for lunch and a stretch! :) The fenced picnic areas have clean, 'longdrop' type toilets.The picnic areas may be trashed by elephants from time to time so shade can be a premium. I recall standing by tree which was more like a twig for the pathetic shadow it cast at one in the afternoon. The one on the way out to Andoni had a particularly nice view over the vlei and when I was there a shady camelthorn tree but as per elephant remarks, above, I can't vouch for it still being there :) It may be extremely hot- in the day time it never dropped below 37c when I was there and on two days exceeded 40c. I never use cosmetics but found even I was reaching for the moisturiser- you can almost feel your vital fluids being sucked out your skin and the water is very harsh also.
After the first couple of days just taking in the scope of the park, I spent time at a few really productive waterholes for the remainder of the time. Don’t worry if you come to a waterhole with a lot of animals but also a lot of cars. Most folk don’t stay that long and, over time you can position yourself at a better vantage point. I spent a lot of time at Chudop, Goas and Tsumcor and wasn't disappointed- lion, hyena, elephants sparing and bathing, giraffe necking and all the ungulates you could ever hope for including my 'first' eland!
A very good map and information book is available at any of the rest camps and I recommend you purchase one. They are very inexpensive although I can’t remember exactly what I paid for it. Namotuni rest camp has habituated dwarf mongoose and warthog, while Halali has very bold Glossy Starlings who will help you finish your lunch :)

thit_cho, thank you for the tip!

Mega4namaddy, thanks for your excellent description of what I'm likely to encounter. It sounds great (except, of course, the long drop toilets and dessication :) ).

Steve

BTW, thit_cho and Mega4namaddy, I assume you took something for malaria prophylaxis while in Namibia?

sdb2 -- you will love Etosha! I have to laugh because we read the "stay in your car" rules and saw the "stay in your car" reminders plastered over every road marker but it wasn't until we saw 4 cars pulled over by a tree. We asked ourselves "What the heck are they looking at?" A lion and a lioness...sleeping in the grass...under the tree...two feet from the road. Camoflauge works. Stay in your car :).
On a side note, Okondenka is a really spectacular viewing spot (it is hard to say waterhole because the water is farther out on the pan). It is on the west side of the pan. You don't see the animals up close, but the view over the pan is amazing and there are so many animals everywhere. We were also told that there were lions in the vicinity and we were not disappointed -- 6 lionesses, a cub and they even took down a zebra within 50 feet of us.
Have a great trip!
BTW: Malaria -- took malarone. No problems. Took daily immediately following dinner (were told to take it right after our biggest meal of the day).

Pence, thanks for your thoughts! I'm very glad to get others' views on their favorite water holes---it helps me plan out my itinerary while there.

No problem about staying in the car. Near Skukuza in Kruger there's a bird blind. It's only a very short walk (run?) from where you park the car to the blind. But it makes me nervous to think what could be lurking (camouflaged lion), waiting for some camera-laden tourist to serve himself up for dinner.

Best, Steve

Hi sdb2- although I took malaria meds in Botswana and Zambia, which I visited prior to Etosha, I didn't bother in Etosha. At that time of year- nearly the end of the dry season it is quite cold over night which is not condusive to mozzies breeding. Took other precations like spraying with insect repellant and wore long sleeves and long pants if out at night. The tent at Onguma Tented Camp didn't have a mossie net over the bed, which also makes me think Malaria is not a big risk in Etosha. That said- consult your doctor about malaria meds at that time of year.
Have a great trip,
Kaye

Thanks again, Kaye. I've always taken malarone on all previous trips to Africa, with no side effects. But I'd seen comments like yours noting that the little critters didn't seem to be a problem at that time of year. This may be a case of taking prophylaxis because it's easier to explain why I did than why I didn't (especially if I end up with malaria).

Best, Steve

My hunch is that Etosha gets included in the 'malaria range' because it is on the same latitude as Caprivi, where malaria really is a problem. I have seen 'disease maps' which discribe Etosha as only a risk in the wet season.
I'm considering not taking meds at all for a trip to Kruger and South Luangwa in March. Whilst I'm fully aware our Ozzie Mozzies don't (usually) carry deadly diseases like their African relatives, I do find the one here more aggressive and numourous especially at night. I figure if I can avoid them I can avoid their African kin. I've got an australian summer to practice before then :)

No, I didn't take a malaria prophylaxis for my trip to Namibia -- while I did for trips to other parts of Africa and Asia. I would be surprised if Etosha was malarial during its dry season.

Thanks, thit_cho. I'll end talking with my doc, who I'm sure will be cautious. Best, Steve

It's nice to see interest in Etosha--you don't hear much about this park here these days.

The Okaukuejo water hole is a fantastic area to see wildlife, almost all day long. I sat up and watched a constant stream of wildlife from 7 pm until after midnight, and only pulled myself away because I was starting to fall asleep while watching and our group was getting an early start the next morning. I got to see 2 black rhinos face off, thought they were going to fight for the longest time but didn't, just make interesting noises at each other. We were also all treated to 95% of a lion hunt right in front of the waterhole. Four young male lions set a trap for an injured springbok that had earlier walked by the waterhole. Two chased it toward the other two who were waiting in ambush. The only part of the hunt that we didn't get to see was the actual kill, which happened just out of reach of the lights. I will never forget the horrendous noise of the lions fighting each other for the kill.

I was there in early September and I do remember being bitten by a few mosquitoes at the Okaukuejo waterhole. I was taking malaria prophylaxis and didn't get sick, but do be aware that there might be mosquitoes there.

Gritty, thanks for all the information. I agree that you don't see much about Etosha here. It's taken me several years to finally do this. It's so great in S. Africa and East Africa that every time I planned a Namibia trip I ended up caving and going back to those places I love so much. But this time I'm pretty well fixed and it's been reassuring to get the positive remarks.

Best, Steve

Don't fall asleep at the waterhole. We were told a grisly story about a sleeping tourist on a bench and a hungry lion at the Okaukeujo waterhole...

sdb2- if you "go back to the places you love" prepare to return to Namibia.:) Refreshingly,Namibia is really accessable for self driving. Indeed, IMHO best done as a self drive. You'll love it.
Kaye

Marija, thanks for that bit of lion lore. To be sure, high on my list of goals for Namibia is 'NOT to be eaten by lion.':)

Kaye, the trip sounds better every day.

Steve

It is true, in 1993 a lion and a lioness killed a tourist sleeping on a bench in Okaukuejo waterhole. Both of them are tracked and killed by rangers. Since 1987 I used to travel to Easr Africa and as a photographer my main concern are good chances to see wildlife. I have been in almost all parks in Kenya and Tanzania and both are really good places for a wildlife photographer. For many years I have postponed my safari to Botswana and Namibia, but in 2008 I finally went there. I´m feel in love with Etosha indeed and I return there in 2009 and 2010 always in august. Etosha is a heaven for photographers and can be compared with Serengeti, Ngorongoro and Masai Mara what photographic opportunities is concerned. Namibia is one of the best places in Africa to self-drive travel, very safe and the road in very good conditions. The people are very friendly and the countrie amazingly beautifull. In 2008 I spend five nights in Etosha, in 2009 nine nights and this year ten nights and I think is not enough. Every time when I leave Etosha I do it with a big pain in my hearth. Next time I´m planning to stay twenty nights, it will be gourgeous, I can´t wait. I miss Kenya and Tanzania, both countries are really beautifull, but are a bit unsafe ultimately. This year I saw lions every day in Etosha, really amazing! For all people like myself, East Africa lovers, that keep going to East Africa every year, break the rules and visit Namibia, you will definitelly feel in love with the countrie. Etosha is a heaven on earth! Best regards.

Hi...I read some horror stories about the accomodation in Etosha, as well as the service level in the camps. Do some of you have an opinion on this or reccomendations regarding a stay in Etosha?

Best regards

The camps were upgraded fairly recently and so the accommodation is fine. I have had no complaints about that in the last year.
The service levels however are pretty dreadful especially at reception and in the restaurants. Rude staff, food running out at the buffet dinner etc etc I have had many complaints about that.
Having the floodlit waterholes is the big 'pull' for staying inside the park.
If a high service level is important to you though then staying outside the park would be a better option. There are some very nice lodges close by the park for a similar price that you would spend to stay inside, and the service is much better.

GillesH, between not being able to have accommodations confirmed for me inside the park for all the nights I'd be in Etosha and the somewhat less than glowing comments I'd read, I decided to stay outside the park. I split my time between the Mushara Outpost (custom made tent-like structures of wood and canvas which are nestled on the banks of an ancient dry river bed), some 12 km from Etosha’s Von Lindequist Gate and the Mushara Lodge (8 km from Von Lindequist Gate, spacious chalets). They offer excellent mid-range accommodations, food and service. Rates include breakfast and dinner. Game drives to Etosha can be booked and paid for separately, although I had my own car and did not do so.

I spent most of my time among the following water holes: Kalkheuwel, Chudob, Klein Numatoni, Klein Okevi, Tsumcor, and Groot Okevi. Kalkheuwel and Klein Numatoni, which was excellent for late afternoon viewing and photography, were my favorites. At least for me, the major downside to being outside the park was needing to leave before sunset, thereby losing some good photographic possibilities.

Thanks for resurrecting this conversation.

One objection I hear continually about inside-the-park accommodations is the uncertainty of actually having a reservation, similar to sdb2's comments. That uncertainty would trump everything else for me in deciding where to stay, especially if going at a busy time of year where alternate arrangements cannot be made easily.

Any hints on overcoming the reservation problem would be helpful. Maybe using a local Namibian agent would help?

This post would be a good place to include links to photos that people have taken at the various waterholes, especially AT NIGHT.

After reading some of the above posts, not getting eaten by a lion would even trump reservation difficulties. Note to self: don't sleep on a bench at night in Okaukeujo.

Hi,

since i am only gathering information I can't help with the question regarding the reservations. I am comparing trips for either Namibia or Botswana. (they are in a different price range :-)

I have a trip with nomad in mind. I had a good experience with them in SA this year, they end their trip in Etosha befor transferring to Windhoek and I'm checking wether I can prolong my stay in Etosha for a couple of days.
@sdb 2 Thanks for the tips regarding etosha

G.