OAT EGYPT

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Old May 3rd, 2008, 12:05 AM
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You should be able to exchange some money at the exchange windows in the airport.
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Old May 3rd, 2008, 06:34 AM
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Thanks so much!
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Old May 3rd, 2008, 07:21 AM
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Yes, you can exchange money at the airport but if you don't have time or a problem I'm sure the driver will be happy with the suggested $5.00.

I don't know how much the dollar has gone down since I was there last October -- seven months ago, but most vendors, even in shops quoted prices and asked for American dollars (no coins though). The vendors and kids on the street were asking for dollars. Maybe someone who has been there more recently would know if that's changed.
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Old Jun 6th, 2008, 05:56 PM
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Hey Itchy Feet 5

We just returned from Egypt with OAT and it was excellent in every respect. We were so glad to be on the Nile for 4 nights instead of 3. It's pretty fast paced and full days and it was such luxury on this ship. We've been on other Grand Circle ships and river cruises but this was exceptional - 190 sq ft cabins. 5 course meals at both lunch and dinner and a buffet that had everything.

Itchy Feet, if I don't get back to this posting, please don't hesitate to write me direct with questions and I'll do my best to respond. everything is so fresh in our minds. By the way, we are in our mid 60s.

Because of the heat, and an upcoming trip to India soon, we plan to buy from Magellans a portable stool to sit on for the sometimes LENGTHY lectures by our tour guide.

my email is

[email protected]

That goes for anyone else as well with questions. fabulous experience. we love OAT
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Old Feb 5th, 2009, 02:40 AM
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Just returned from OAT Egypt and the Eternal Nile

The human being is a funny animal. He anticipates an event in his mind, but when it occurs it is rarely what he pictured. The visualization -- what will it feel like, look like, be like, finally becomes reality. Sometimes it far exceeds expectations and at other times, it disappoints. My husband and I wanted to visit Egypt for many years, but events prevented us. Finally, we were able to make this journey. After all the books, museums, study of art, we were going to experience the reality. And so, the melding antiquity and the present began. 5000 years of history coming alive in the pyramids, tombs and ancient temples, walking the streets, meeting the people, visiting the museums. Is Egypt Claustrophobic? Crowded? Dusty? Horrific traffic jams? Yes! But so fascinating!

Here are some impressions which I hope will be helpful for others that are planning this trip.

The boat
The boat (The Royal Orchid) had a nice little bedroom with two real beds and enoughspace for storage. The staff was wonderful. The French captain had seen that we were not eating salads, and he reassured us that it was safe by describing how the food was prepared. The deck was lovely and had a small 6 foot deep pool and two exercise bicycles When we docked, we sometimes docked 6 boats deep.
At Kom Ombo,there were 8 boats along the pier, 6 across, so we walked from one to the other and could see their lovely lobbies. Although our boat was capable of holding 60 passangers, we were only 32, which made it very comfortable - roomy yet intimate. Every day we had a buffet for breakfast, then a choice of a light lunch on the deck or regular lunch in the dining room. With the magnificent weatheer, we opted for the deck and ate while we watched the Nile go by - we saw donkeys and other animals grazing along the river bed, herons and cormorants in the water, and an occasional village the way dotted among thefarms. The water was clean and sparkling.

The people
We chose the right time to go to Egypt. The inauguration occurred while we were in Aswan and the cries of "Obama!" followed us everywhere. The people inquired where we were from and told us they loved America, which made us feel great. The people are extremely friendly, always smiling and humorous . We learned a few words - hello, good morning, thank you, good, etc. Communicating was fun. Unfortunately, my iphone translator didn't work, but I was able to buy a dictionary in the Nubian Museum in Aswan.

Safety.
The US governmentrequires that we be accomanied by a sec urity guard at all times. When we walked down the streets as a group,he was vigilant. There is little crime, and we encountered none.

Shopping
We love bargaining in the suks. It is a cultural experience that enables usto interact with the people, and interaction is certainly alive and well in Egypt. We have bargaineed with Israeli Arabs and Moroccan Arabs in the past, and also with Africans in Victoria Falls. The Egyptians are aggressive, but after your third "no", they leave you alone. Once you are interested in a product,the game begins. You can usually get the item for slightly less than half of the asking price, but not until you've discussed your family, America, and anything else. All this is done a smile, and then with a handshake. People are disappiointed if you don't bargain. There were a few stores where they had a set price, but at one store where we were only able to bargain $2 off, we then discovered that the hotel wanted triple the price and the ship wanted five times the price, so we realized that our vendor was very fair. Bargaining is a fun, you interact with the people. It is a win/win situation.

The suks
Colorful, full of wonderful photo ops of people, merchandise, architecture.

Architecture
Graceful and distinctive, but the Egyptians do not care about the outside of their houses. There is rubble everywhere, although the streets are generally fairly clean and the pavement is usually not broken up.

Cleanliness
I expected far worse. Parts of Cairo (especially near Liberation Square) were sparkly clean. There are few animals wandering the streets. In certain areas,the Nile becomes a garbage dump and that water is used for irrigation. But the garbage appears to be paper and not food. But Egypt is nowhere near as crowded or as filthy as India.

Health
A problem -- our guide did not call ahead to remind the restauranteurs to leave the uncooked greens off our plates. As a result, there was a lot of mummy tummy ranging from fevers of l02 to a few hours of queaziness. I also became aware that, after money exchanging or shaking of hands, I needed to pull out the Purell.

The sights
How can you describe the pyramids, the sphinx, the temples built 5000 years ago, the pharoah's boat which did not rot after 5000 years and whose rope was in pristine condition? How can you describe looking up and seeing paintings which were made in the second century BC? How can you describethe feeling of entering someone's tomb and seeing his lIfe story portrayed on the walls?

The diversity
We went from antiquity to museum to parks, to markets, to felucca rides, to restaurants, on walks of cities, on tours of churches, synagogues and mosques. Every hour had another surprise.

The water
You MUST drink bottled water. Our guide in Egypt sold it to us on the bus and there was usually a few bottles in our hotel room. In Jordan, our bus driver kindly stopped off at a supermarket and purchased it at the local price.

The food
It's spicy, but not too spicy. We had a cooking "lesson" on the boat at which time we made okra with peppers, onions, oil, coriander, salt, pepper and chili powder. What a treat to have it for dinner. The barbecued chicken is delicious. The rice is spiced with a cinnamon/vanilla blend that is mixed with fried onions. The desserts are good (although we didn't eat them), but the baklava is delicious, and so are many other desserts madewith honey. I will be making Egyptian food when we arrive home -- something I did not look forward to. Serendipity!

Weather
The weather was fantastic. Even though Februarty usuallty has 2.2 inches ofrain, we had beautiuful blue skies, setting off the temples to the full extent of their mahjesty. And such beautiful sunsets!

The hotels
Most of the hotels were decent, however because we were the Inner Circle members and had gone on many trips, we were given a suite in Alexandria's Salamlek Palace, the former home of King Farouk. Our huge apartment looked out on the Meditteranean and was furnished in beautiful antiques. The hotel is filled with photographs and possessions of Egypt's former king and has a beautiful bar and dining room.

We also loved The Winter Palace, directly across the water in Luxor. It is surrounded by gardens and a picturesque swimming pool. Our room was large and well-appointed.

Le Passage in Cairo near the airport is a well-run hotel but it is too far from the city. A few free shuttles to Heliolopolis and Liberation Square run from time to time, but traffic is bad and our schedules didn't allow us to explore. A big disappointment, since we were in Cairo three times.

Our Guide
Our guide, Tarek, is studying for his PH. D. In Egyptologyat the Unuiversity of Cairo. We never needed a docent, and at each leg of the journey, he gave us detailed explanationss. One night, we had a discussion about modern Egypt. Although he suffered from what is an apparent ability to tell time, and wasn't particularly specific or organized, he was interesting and caring.

The galabaya party
This was a riot. Our guides turned it into the biggest hoot. We had gone shopping for our outfits, and dressed to the nines with head coverings, and were psyched!

RESTAURANTS

Many meals were included in our package, but we went to a few restaurants on our own that we found to be outstanding:

Sabeya Restaurant in the Intercontinental Hotel, Cairo - Lebanese meses and mixed grill in an elegant setting. We ate and ate, and then they served the main course! Total bill with two bottles of wine - $120 per couple.

The Fish Market, Alexandria - overlooking the Meditteranean, it is very "Riviera". You choose your own fish and it is prepared however you like. We had meses ($2 per person) and grilled calamari and vegetables. Total bill - $20 per person.

Kadoura Restaurant, Cairo
Although we planned to go here on our own, lunch was provided by our tour, so we had a more spartan meal. Next door is a fish market that supplies the fresh fare.

Andreas Restaurant near Sakkara
Men bake fresh bread and ladies prepare delicious barbecue chicken on an open pit in this very attractive outdoor location.

Basra Island - approached by boat, this is an outdoor picnic-style venue on an island off the city of Aswan. We had a buffet amidst nature and were serenaded by the braying of donkeys.

Kababgy Restaurant - Luxor - directly across the street from the Winter Palace Hotel. We ate here twice and had excellent grilled chicken and sauteed vegetables, prepared exactly as we wished.

HIGHLIGHTS
The Pyramids
How did they do that? You have to be careful not to look up too much because the camels are everywhere!
The sphinx is the head of King Kefrin with a lion"s body, which represents strength. There was a large boulder blocking the viewe of the pyramid, so Kefrin had it made to enhance, rather than ruin, the effect. The sphinx represents the physical power of the lion and the mental power of man. It is thought that the head was defaced by a religious fanatic who could not tolerate icons in the form of humans.

Cheop's Solar Boat
5000 years old and the rope is still in near perfect condition. Mind-boggling!

Sakkhara
The step pyramid of King Djoser is the first pyramid and the oldest stone structure in the world. We visited the tomb of Mere Ruka, a respected secretary of the king and saw hieroglyphics depicting his life. We then visited the tomb of King Titi and saw his black granite sarcophagus, and hieroglyphics on the walls known as the pyramid texts. The ceiling is painted as stars in the sky.

The Citadel
Built in the 12th century by Saladin. Here is also the alabaster Mosque of Mohammed Ali where our guide taught us about Islam and the 5 Belems. This location has a phenomenal panoramic view of Cairo.

The coptic Hanging Church
The Ben Ezra Synagogue
Both bring biblical stories to life. Moses was supposedly found in the Nile near the synagogue. The coptics consider themselves natural descendents of the pharoahs. We learned of their religious beliefs.

The Cairo Museum
Most famous for the fabulous collection of King Tut's treasures. A picture on the wall shows how the tomb looked when entered by Lord Carnaval and his wife.

Aswan Dam
Fascinating, but most fascinating to me that whole temples were removed and reassembled (such as Abu Simbel and Philae) as a result of its construction.

Philae Island
A scenic boat trip brings us to this beautiful Temple of Isis with well-preserved reliefs portraying Ptolemy, Hathor, Isis and Osiris.

Abu Simbel
What an amazing feat! Pictures can not portray the size and beauty of these temples, built for Rameses III and Nefertari. Since photography is not allowed, we didn't expect the wonderful and huge wall paintings and reliefs. And to think that it was all reconstructed, block by block! Thankfully, pictures were taken of this momentous project.

The camel ride to San Simeon Monastery and a Nubian village
It took about an hour to ride to the coptic monastery of St. Simeon and then back to a Nubian village. My driver was fabulous. The took great care of me, knowing that I was more than terrified. He sang to me and we taught each other words. I gave him a double tip because the experience was so wonderful. For the next two days, every muscle in my body ached, but it was worth it!

The Alexandria Library
Built by a team of 5 architects, 4 from Japan, this library is capable of holding 80 million volumes. It is a complex of three buildings and has the most modern technology available to researchers.

Kom Ombo
The French archeologist, Auguste Mariette visited this site in l869 and realized that the site would be lost, and thereby launched a restoration campaign. The complex is dedicated to two gods - Horus and Hathor. It was decorated in the 2nd century BC by Ptolemy V, VI, VII and later decorated by Tiberius and Caracalla.

Edfu
We approached Edfu by carriage. This magnificent complex of temples was only in use for 27 years, because in 30 AD, Augustus invaded and the temple was abandoned. It remains the most complete temple in Egypt. The ceilings remain brillliantly colored in many of the rooms.

Karnak
Erected by Rameses to show his piety to the god Amun. Huge statues grace the entrance gates. We can also see temples dedicated to Amunhotep, who built himself a temple that was demolilshed, but is now reconstructed. He was the first pharoah to build huge buildings. Karnak contains one of the largest pylons in Egypt. The columns here are the most imposing of any temple.

Luxor
A beautiful location, made even more beautiful when lit up at night. And don't miss the museum. It is designed by the Brooklyn Museum and contains taratats (small tiles) which tell of the life of Akhenaten -- our only surviving artifacts about the Heretic King's life.

Valley of the Kings and Queens
You read about Egyptian history, and then, there you are in the rooms where the great pharoahs and queens were buried! You wander around what appears to be a bunch of sandy hills, then go up or down staircases to find yourself in beautifully decorated chambers, some looking as if they were freshly painted! Finding a sarcophagus in the inner chamber is overwhelming! Unfortunately, Nefertari's tomb was being renovated, so I couldn't visit her -a big disappointment.

More to come on the post-trip to Jordan.



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Old Feb 5th, 2009, 05:22 AM
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I just read my post and saw how filled it is with typos. May I apologize in advance, using the excuse that I am jet-lagged? So sorry.
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Old Feb 5th, 2009, 06:00 AM
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It's an excellent report, no need to apologize for a few typos.

Your report brings back good memories. I wonder why you were not on the River Hathor. Does OAT use more than one ship now?

Only six of us took the extension to Alexandria and all had suites overlooking the Mediterranean, only one couple were Inner Circle members.

I think we stayed at Le Pasage only twice, the first and last nights. We stayed at the Mena House the other nights.

I also believe that Nefertari's tomb is open only to very few people now at a high price -- and for a limited time, 20 minutes, I believe. Our guide told us it was being renovated too but I read an article in a travel magazine that it has been closed to the general public to preserve the art.

I'm looking forward to reading about your Jordan extension.

Thanks for taking the time to write a well-organized report.
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Old Feb 5th, 2009, 08:36 AM
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Great report, thanks! (I would like to add that it is the EGYPTIAN gov't that dictates military convoys/escorts, not the US government, which has no say over what happens on Egyptian soil! It's done to give tourists "comfort", although we only experienced it when driving from Aswan to Luxor, never when we were just out and about (we were a group of six on a private tour).

I wonder if you recall how much your driver charged you for water? (I wonder if it was a "profit center" for him) -- since we were, as I said, in a private van, we just stopped at the market whenever we needed water. Much less expensive than buying it at the hotel or tourist sites.
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Old Feb 5th, 2009, 11:49 AM
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He charged us $1 for a bottle.
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Old Feb 5th, 2009, 11:51 AM
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Hi, Luisa. There were two identical trips running at the same time, one going north and one going south. The River Hathor may have been the other ship, although I don't know for sure.
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Old Feb 5th, 2009, 12:11 PM
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Hi partypoet - I thoroughly enjoyed reading your trip report. I took a Grand Circle tour of Egypt last month and loved it. When you tell people of your experiences it's hard to convey just how fascinating and beautiful the sights are. I'm glad you had a great time.
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Old Feb 7th, 2009, 10:43 AM
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Great trip report, Partpoet! I have friends who are on that trip right now. I traveled there in 2002 and was also told that the armed escorts are required by the US Embassy for all US tour groups.
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Old Feb 7th, 2009, 03:08 PM
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<i>and was also told that the armed escorts are required by the US Embassy for all US tour groups. </i>

I'm sure that's what you were told (as though everything you're told by tour guides is absolutely correct LOL), but that doesn't mean the US Embassy actually has any right to tell anybody what they can and can't do in Egypt.
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Old Feb 7th, 2009, 03:17 PM
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It's definitely an Egyptian govt thing - but they do focus more on US tourists than others.

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Old Feb 7th, 2009, 03:25 PM
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You may be right, sf7307. I've sent an e-mail to the US Embassy in Cairo, asking them about this. I'll let you know if I hear back from them.
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Old Feb 8th, 2009, 07:47 AM
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&lt;&lt;He charged us $1 for a bottle.&gt;&gt;

Were they large bottles? We bought two 16 oz bottles from the driver for $1.00 last year.

My impression of the armed tourist police was that it is the Egyptian government that implemented it to bring tour groups back to Egypt after the attacks.

Groups from other countries get the armed escorts as well, it isn't just Americans. There is a multitude of tourists in Egypt, many from European countries.
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Old Feb 8th, 2009, 09:13 AM
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When we were in Egypt last summer, there were few Americans -- most of the groups we encountered in Cairo were Italian, Spanish and Japanese, and in Luxor, of course many British. None of the vans or busses were permitted to drive from Aswan to Luxor other than in the military convoy, which met up twice a day to make the trip.

The reason I asked about water is that as expected, we found it to be much much cheaper in the grocery stores than in the markets/tourist sites. We were regularly getting the large size (1.5 litres I think?) for 5 L.E.-10 L.E. at the grocery. Fortunately, we were on a &quot;private&quot; tour, so we could stop whenever we wanted to fill up!
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Old Feb 8th, 2009, 11:59 AM
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The bottles were large ones. We found it strange, though, that they weren't provided by OAT. They provide them in Mexico, Central America and India. Why not in Egypt?
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Old Feb 8th, 2009, 12:01 PM
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I wrote a thread called OAT Jordan, but now I can't find it. Can anyone tell me how to search for it?
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Old Feb 8th, 2009, 12:07 PM
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I knew I had seen it yesterday -- here's the link.

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=4
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