Kits55

Last year we stayed at a camp that was about 2 hours away from the nearest crossing point but we had fantastic wildlife viewings nonetheless. This year I'm determined to see a crossing and more cheetahs. We have the choice to stay fewer nights, at a small camp (only 6 tents) in a great location (about 10 minutes from the boundary of the Mara) and pay a lot to have a private guide OR stay somewhere in the Mara, (Mara Serena), pay less and stay maybe 1-2 nights longer.

Is the area around the Mara Serena "busy" at sightings during the migration?

Does anyone have personal experience at Offbeat Mara?

Thanks!

jul_uk

We were at Offbeat Mara about 7 weeks ago and had a wonderful time. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it but everyone is different so do please ask if you have any specific queries about the camp itself. The vehicles and guides are excellent. We still can't beleive that we had such a quality experience within the Mara. I haven't sorted my photos out yet but this part of the Mara conservancy was teeming with game. The area around this camp is truly beautiful and will be about as as quiet as you can get at the busy time you are planning to go. The manager at Offbeat told me that when guests stay during migration time they are often horrified at the amount of traffic at main crossing points and in the main Mara Reserve - and are delighted to retreat out of the main reserve again. I would not even contemplate staying in the main reserve in peak season even though I would love to see a crossing. Others who have done so will no doubt reply and give you a better picture but , having seen photos and heard about the dozens and dozens of vehicles at crossings, the only way I can ever envisage doing it is in the way you are comtemplating. We only stay at "intimate" camps so hopefully others will tell you of their experience at a busy large lodge like the Serena. All depends on your personality and priorities. If you decide to go to Mara Serena, when are you thinking of going ? Can you go a little later in the year than the masses perhaps ? Crossings do not only occur when the migration has just arrived but take place over months depending on the rains etc.
Anyway, please do ask if you have any questions about our stay at Offbeat.

julie

tinydancer

We were in the Mara in a private reserve last September. Staying at Serena and with a private guide you should see plenty of what you are going for. Especially with two extra nights.

On the other hand, we also went to Tanzania on the opposite side of the Mara River, in a small camp, and we saw 4 huge crossings, one lasting 90 minutes, and the most cars at any one time was 5 maximum. In the Mara there were 10x as many cars at the crossing in what felt like a parking lot. But, lots of game, so the Mara was excellent.

HariS

kits55,

If you are on Facebook, look up the Mara Triangle's facebook page ......... i do remember some pictures of theirs from last year where there were a zillion vehicles at those crossing points. It did not look good.

I've never been, but, i hear the experience in the Northern serengeti is far different when the herds are crossing over into Kenya around July - Sept. Others can comment.

I personally, had a brilliant trip off-season in the Mara and highly recommend a visit out of migration season for the lack of crowds with awesome viewing. I stayed at Serian which was excellent, but, I'm sure there are many great options in the Mara.

sandi

From my experiences, it's often easier seeing and watching cheetah hunt outside the Reserve, on the northern conservancies where the grasses are lower.

Yes, being inside the Reserve at closer crossing points can be crazy with vehicles, but that's the reason people visit and is expected. As no one, not even the wildies themselves, know if/when they'll cross, people come and spend the day or a good part of it hoping to experience this. And, still some people can be there for a few days and not see a crossing. Just ask the Natl Geo photogs and even the Big Cat Diary guys who have spotters everywhere and are constantly moving in the hopes of catching this. Then splicing film to show us in 1/hr what it took them days, weeks and even months to compile.

Can't imagine someone at the Reserve entrances handing out tickets per vehicle for a 1/hr visit only. Ain't gonna happen. So it is what it is.

Those who choose instead to go to the Northern Serengeti, likewise, have to time correctly; July-Sept is a wide period to time perfectly (even recall a thread of visitors who didn't see all that much game in the area when they were there). Even though not all of the herds move into the Masai Mara, with those remaining in the No. Serengeti and hoping to see a crossing, can also be hit-or-miss!

Personally, I've never visited during "migration" time, always in off-season and never been disappointed in the overall game experience in the Mara, especially cheetah. Though on some visits didn't see even one cheetah, but on another had a leopard all to myself for as long as I wishes to stay and not another vehicle in sight.

Though last early-June, I experienced a "crossing" with small herds coming thru the Sand River on the Tanzania border... totally unexpected for that time of year.

So it's best to expect every day on safari to be different.


The choice is left to you. I'd personally prefer to be outside the Reserve and Off Beat is a good choice.

Hari - Serian a great choice/deal in off-season, but as kits55 describes, well out of their budget during the season.

Kits55

@ Julie- Thanks for the recommendation of Offbeat- it's our first choice. We're trying to go at the beginning of August due to a public holiday (my husband is short on time). I'm strongly considering going at a different time, maybe off season if we can. What vehicles does Offbeat use? Do the vehicles have bean bags in them? I don't mean anything nice too fancy, just something really basic.

Thanks Hari and Sandi for your words of advice.

jul_uk

Hi again, have you looked at their website ? Go to offbeatsafaris dot com - lodges and camps - offbeat mara, then you will find a video. Ok, these promo videos make me cringe but you will see the vehicles they use ! They seemed well-maintained and well-driven ! If, for some reason, you can't view the video then the slideshow of photos on the camp page and on the home page also show vehicles. The ones I saw had 3 seats along the back and another two in front then the guide and the spotter sitting in the very front. We didn't share which brings me to another thought I had. If you are thinking of booking a private vehicle I would double-check that will be possible in one of the busiest weeks of the year when the camp will be full. I know they do bring in more vehicles as needed but I would double-check all the same. I am sorry I don't use bean bags so I can't answer your query but I would be surprised if they can't rustle one up for you - I didn't see any in our vehicle though. Get your agent to check or drop offbeat an email. They won't mind you asking questions direct even if you are booking through an agent, they are a small, friendly approachable company.
If you like to be on the edge of the camp with the most chance of having elephants munching within inches of your head all night then request tent 6 !
We were told that the price charged included fees to enter the main mara reserve once in a three-night stay so you may want to bear that in mind if you think you will want to be going in there to likely crossing points more often - my guess is that you won't. ( your agent may have a different arrangement so don't rely on this). We chose not to go at all as we couldn't see any reason to at that time. This was a heavenly part of the Mara and it felt like we had it practically to ourselves. Most of our sightings of cats were very close to camp although cheetah were a bit further away (probably because of the very healthy, noisy and visible lion population around camp).
But it could be a possible downside if you think that you might be paying Mara North Conservancy fees and also for the main reserve on the same day. several times. That would be expensive - something like $160 - $180 each person per day - ouch. If you don't get to see a crossing the first day are you going to go again the second and so on. If so maybe you should be in the main reserve.
If you can go a bit later that would be better I'm sure.
If I were trying to do what you have in mind I think I might try and get an early flight into the Mara and do a " crossing" orientated game drive on arrival as you land in main reserve (same airstrip as governors)and also get a late flight out on last day so I could do the same on that last day before getting the flight. Requires a private vehicle of course. Then I would enjoy staying in the Mara North conservancy on any full days there. See what you have done - I'm planning now !!
There must be frequent mini-crossings in Mara North at that time. It just seems that the most spectacular crossing points are in the main reserve.
Tinydancer has a good point if you could change your destination - I have been to northern Serengeti, too early for the migration in the first week of July, but I think it would be a far less crowded and more pleasurable experience to see crossings there. The year we were there your timing would have been just perfect for northern Serengeti.
Hope I haven't confused you rather than helped. Thoroughly recommend Offbeat Mara!
Julie

sandi

Check-out at Offbeat Mara is 10am (as is for other lodges/camps).

Late check-out (for afternoon 4pm flight to Nairobi) will incur a charge of $115/person.

live_aloha

I stayed at Offbeat Mara last August, 2010. It was fantastic!

I had my doubts initially. No one on this forum seemed to know much about Offbeat Mara when I posed the same question and the 2 comments on Trip Advisor (while good) were outdated. When I was planning my trip, I had read about it (described as "the real deal") and it sparked my interest. I arranged my trip through Bill Givens (The Wild Source) and he recommended it, and since I trusted his opinion, decided to go for it. Glad I did. I spent 4 nights there. When our guide picked us up at the airstrip, I couldn't help thinking about "the real deal". All of the staff (except Penny, the camp hostess) is Maasai.

Some of the things I loved about Offbeat Mara:
--great, professional guides who know the area well and where to find the resident animals. Felt safe on their watch...even when the bull elephant was so close to our jeep that he grabbed the antennae with his trunk (I think just to show us he could)while passing by
--small, intimate/isolated camp with (I think)6 tents, comfortable bed, great bucket shower on demand. Nice lanai area with wildebeasts grazing out front. Could hear lions roaring at night, as well as something munching and crunching outside my tent at night (never did see what it was)
--open sided Land Rover, 1 car per group (3 in my group)
--great hostess and assistant (Penny and Emma)
--interesting guests, fun dinner conversations
--exellent food
--free alcohol!
--Sundowners
--free laundry service
Hope this helps,
Jan

Kits55

Hi Julie- we're doing it, we're booking Offbeat in August!! Thank you so much for the recommendation and information- it definitely helped, was not confusing at all. Our agent has already secured tent 6 for us (thanks!!) and they're going to pick us up at the airstrip with a packed lunch!! Do you remember if there is a restroom at the airstrip? I did find out that beanbags are in the vehicles so that's going to save me at least 6 pounds of luggage, phew!

@Sandi- the late check-out was quoted to us as $125 per person but we're also arriving at the airstrip around 10am if that makes a difference.

@Live_Aloha- Thank you too for your insight! I'm so glad to hear you loved Offbeat as well- and in August! I am dying to hear a lion roaring so my fingers are crossed! I wasn't aware of free laundry but am pumped for that! Did you write a trip report for Offbeat on any websites??

Thanks everyone

sandi

There should be a loo at the airstrip.

There are only morning and afternoon flights to the Mara, with those in the morning (season dependent), arrive either 10am or 11am.

Therefore, each day (24/hrs) commences at lunch and concludes after breakfast the next. Thus, departure on the afternoon flight at 4pm, is consider "late departure" and the fee assessed. Whether the fee is $125 or other, it will include lunch.

sandi

There should be a loo at the airstrip.

There are only morning and afternoon flights to the Mara, with those in the morning (season dependent), arrive either 10am or 11am.

Therefore, each day (24/hrs) commences at lunch and concludes after breakfast the next. Thus, departure on the afternoon flight at 4pm, is consider "late departure" and the fee assessed. Whether the fee is $125 or other, it will include lunch.

sandi

Fodor's acting strange these past few weeks, where my entries are duplicated... beats me!

twaffle

If Offbeat Mara are picking you up at Musiara Airstrip, there is no loo that I saw. I'm sure your guide will be able to find a suitable bush though or there may be one at the Musiara gate.

live_aloha

You are welcome.

Nope, no trip report yet but I keep thinking one day I will.

Just found out that the camp host when I was there (Penny) has a baby now, so is no longer there--quite a surprise!

You will have a great trip--be sure to report back!

jul_uk

I am very excited for you and will be enviously thinking of you in "our" tent in August.
I distinctly remember no loo at the airfield ! You might have to get used to the idea of sometimes going behind the vehicle - which wasn't so bad because of the lack of other vehicles around and the type of vhicle. I usually head into the bushes but there was so much game, and especially sleeping cats, that it was often easier and quicker !
We paid the late departure fee and caught the late flight out on our last day. I remember being a bit indignant about it before going but actually wouldn't hesitate to do it again. As Sandi says it does cover lunch and it also covers extra game drives or other activities. We felt like we had a good full day on safari because of doing that. We went out really early with a bush breakfast and stayed out until dashing back to camp for a late lunch, throwing our bags in the back and having an unhurried drive to the airfield. You wouldn't need to go back for luch though, presuming you have your own vehicle. We saw the infamous Marsh pride on the way to and from the airfield. With two other easily viewable prides near camp and lions not being our top priority we made sure that our guide knew straightaway that we wanted to prioritise seeing cheetah and leopard and he obliged, changing plans and routes to suit.
Piers Winkworth was a great host to us when we were there.The blog they recently started on their site will give you something to look forward to - though it covers the other camps as well. We were the guests on Feb 4th.
Have a wonderful time and I hope you will write and say how you got on. I would be interested to know how it is in peak rather than off-season.

julie

Kits55

Julie- I read the entire blog (I didn't realize it was so new!) and I paid particular attention to the post of Feb. 4. The lions you saw are beautiful. I'm no stranger to making the bush my restroom though I did wonder about it considering there are so many lions in the area Did you do a game drive after dark any of the nights you were there? Cheetahs are also my priority (tied with seeing a crossing). I'm not very reliable at writing trip reports but I made to note to post on here or send you an email when we return to give you a report on what Offbeat Mara is like in the high season.

jul_uk

Yes, wonderful lion pride with lots of cubs and no other vehicles at all apart from Piers came up from the camp as it was so close in order to take those photos. You will have to be strong-willed to leave such scenes near camp if you want to see cheetah, We saw four lots, some with well-grown cubs and some unsuccessfully hunting.
My understanding is that they recently stopped doing dedicated "night drives". I think the "rules" of the Mara North Conservancy might be evolving with time as to what suits all parties and the wildlife. It seems to be ok for the last part of a drive back to camp to be with lights / spotlight. We did this once and saw some bushbabies and the usual game. What I found really special was being out amongst the herds between 6.30 and 7.30-ish pm. It was a magical time to be out that I hadn't experienced before. Previously , even when we have had bush sundowners, we have always been back in camp before then because of house rules / park rules or itinerary needs.
Speak to you later in the year !
julie

Kits55

Thanks to everyone who gave me advice and answered my questions about Offbeat Mara!

For me, my experience was a mixed bag of good and bad things but my husband loved it.

We loved hearing the lions growling and large herbivores (hippos and buffalo) munching and crunching during the night. The food was excellent, especially the "boxed" lunches. Free laundry and alcohol are very nice considering you usually pay an arm and a leg at most safari lodges/camps in African countries. We didn't have much laundry as we only stayed a few nights and it was our only stay in Kenya. Emma and Piers were great hosts, our guide and spotter worked very hard to find us the things we wanted to see.

If I ever return to the Masai Mara it will NOT be during peak season! The hoards of vehicles and the disrespect of guests (from other lodges) waiting at the crossing turned me off, way off! Things are nice and quiet in the Mara North Conservancy so we spent a lot of our time in the conservancy.

One thing that could be improved upon is consistently serving dinner at the same time every night. During our stay dinner was served later and later and our final night it wasn't served until 8:50pm!

On the other hand the guests at the camp during our stay were all fantastic and fun to get to know.

Leely2

Thanks very much for the feedback. I am thinking of returning to the Mara again next summer--sounds like the earlier the better. Last time I stayed on the Olare Orok conservancy (late June) and I didn't have crowds. Perhaps a conservancy is the best way to go if you prefer quiet sightings. Taller grass = fewer vehicles?