Need Lodging Advice--Botswana/South Africa

Old Feb 29th, 2008, 12:24 PM
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Need Lodging Advice--Botswana/South Africa

My husband and I are planning our "Last Hoorah" before we start having children--yay!

The first couple of nights will be on the Zambezi (we are avid rafters), then we will move on to a mobile safari in Northern Botswana (Migration Routes thru Wilderness Safaris), and would like to end the trip in a permanent camp.

That's where my question comes in: What are the favorite lodges that are accessible from Maun, either in Botswana or South Africa? We'd like more luxury-based accommodations seeing as we will be camping for 2 weeks prior. But we don't need anything over the top nice. Beds, en suite facilities and excellent game drives/guides is what I'm looking for. Of course, the cheaper, the better.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thx! --Megan
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Old Feb 29th, 2008, 12:55 PM
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hi mdlopez,

I did the WS Migration Routes last October and loved it. I finished off with 3 nights at Mala Mala in SA. MM has a lot of fans in this forum as a comfortable lodge, with excellent game viewing, and a price structure (Main Camp) that won't break the bank. That was my first African safari, and I thought that the camping + MM at the end made for a brilliant trip.

I posted an abreviated trip report here:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...4&tid=35087419

and links to pics here:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...4&tid=35089092
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Old Feb 29th, 2008, 02:56 PM
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I'd recommend Mala Mala or another Sabi Sands camp for a grand finale. I've stayed only at Mala Mala and chose it for the legendary game viewing, particulary leopard.

You are canoeing on the Zambezi? I know you can do the whitewater rafting closer to Livingstone. But I have not heard of rafting along the Zambezi for an extended trip.

Zambezi, Botswana mobile, and Sabi Sands would be a terrific combo.
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Old Feb 29th, 2008, 03:47 PM
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Thanks so much for the comments!

Well, 2 for Mala Mala! I will have to look into it with our agent to see if it is still available (seeing how popular it is!)

rickmck--Thank you for the trip report--it definately will come in handy.

atravelynn--There are a few companies that offer extended rafting trips. Safari par excellence is one: http://whitewater.safpar.com/
The big water is the first day, but you can continue for up to 5 days with mostly flat, but some class 4 rapids interspersed.

I'd love to see Leopard, so I'll keep Sabi Sands in mind. What are good camps to see Cheetah or Rhino? Rare, I know, but it's worth a shot

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Old Feb 29th, 2008, 04:49 PM
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I've done two mobile safaris in Botswana (basic, non-participatory camping) with two different companies and loved them both. I've been to MalaMala twice (third time coming up in a few months) and love it there. If you're wanting to see leopards, MM could be your place. I have copies of many of my leopard pictures in one gallery and most of them are from MM. Have a look at what you may see. http://www.pbase.com/cjw/leopards

Cindy
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Old Feb 29th, 2008, 05:09 PM
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The whitewater rafting trip from Livingstone - there are different options, either the half day or the full day! We did the half day - i think it was great fun!

Rhino - SA has plenty of them.

Cheetah - if you are lucky, you may see them on the mobile trip!
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Old Feb 29th, 2008, 05:27 PM
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Seeing Cheetah, or anything else really, is a matter of catch-as-catch-can. On my Migration Routes mobile + MM, we saw only one Cheetah and that was in the Vumbura area. We did get to spend 30 or 40 minutes with him, though. Wish there had been more sightings but, honestly, I was very happy with the one!
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Old Feb 29th, 2008, 08:56 PM
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It looks like I forgot to mention when we will be traveling--between mid-oct to early nov.

Sundowner--which two mobile safaris did you do? we are pretty much set on Migration Routes, but haven't booked yet, so back up plans (and future trips!) are always in the making and beautiful pics, by the way.

rick--i would love to hear about the logistics of your trip. It seems from your posts that you ended your mobile safari in Livingston? I guess this year it ends in Maun.

Does anyone know how difficult it would be to get from Maun to Mala Mala?

thanks for allowing me to pick your experienced brains
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Old Feb 29th, 2008, 10:15 PM
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This year, I think, all the Migration Routes packages run from Livingstone to Maun whereas, last year, half ran the reverse direction also. I'm from the U.S., so my getting to Maun (or L'stone) meant going through JNB, so my ticketing arrangements were US-JNB-US (on SAA) and JNB-Maun-JNB (on Air Bots). MM have their own airstrip and regularly scheduled service via SAA Airlink out of JNB. As I recall, JNB-MM-JNB ran about USD 450. JNB-Maun-JNB was about the same.

My trip was during the last 2 weeks of October, so, same timeframe as yours. Weather was quite hot, but tolerable. Also very dusty (we got all the dust and dirt we wanted, at no extra charge!). On the camping safari, we had one morning where it rained. We went out on a game drive anyway, but all the animals were smarter than us and stayed home, keeping dry, while we drove around getting wet (despite the rain gear made available). Once the rain stopped and the sun came out, so did the animals...

BTW, I was recently talking to my TA and was told that Migration Routes was proving exceptionally popular this year and that almost all departure dates had already filled up! So, if you don't already have a provisional reservation in place, you may need to do so quickly.
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Old Feb 29th, 2008, 11:38 PM
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Oh boy--we're in trouble.... I figured something like that would happen.

I have an email in to 2 travel agents, we will see what they say. Looks like I'd better start looking for alternatives in the meantime.
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Old Mar 1st, 2008, 07:02 AM
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Sounds like a great trip combination! Maun to JoBurg to Mala Mala is really your only option. The hopper plane goes from Joburg to Mala Mala midday, and returns early afternoon.

I am a Mala Mala fan for the awesome gameviewing, guiding and lodging. We were in Africa mid-October to November and had ideal weather. It was actually cool on the morning gamedrives, and I was glad to have a light jacket.

Good luck with your dates.

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Old Mar 1st, 2008, 11:54 AM
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What are good camps to see Cheetah or Rhino? Rare, I know, but it's worth a shot

Before my 2007 trip I was asking the exact question. My research lead me to Phinda, a cheetah sanctuary. Be aware that it is a fenced sanctuary of 55,000 acres. At times fences were in view. But it's not a zoo because for days, cheetahs were not in view. I ended up seeing 7 over a week's time.

The white rhino were very abundant. There are even black rhino, but I did not see them. White rhino are also very abundant at Mala Mala. It's possible to see cheetah there, but not common.

At Phinda you can track rhino on foot and I spent three mornings during a week's stay participating in this outstanding activity.

Phinda has the standard African animals too, and a host of activities from the rhino tracking to canoeing, and village visits, all of which I enjoyed. Plus many more.

Of course, the cheaper, the better. Though I'd use the term moderate and not cheap, I'd suggest Forest or Mountain Lodge at Phinda, not the more expensive Rock or Vlei. I spent a week at Forest and it was gorgeous.


On the rafting, who all is in the raft? A group of people? You and the guide? For the channels where I canoed, I can't imagine a raft fitting through those channels. Once or twice we had to portage our canoe. Along the main Zambezi, the river was plenty deep and wide that a raft would be great.
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Old Mar 1st, 2008, 12:24 PM
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Megan, the mobile safaris I've been on were with Game Trails in 2005 and with Joyce and Simon Paul of Maun Rest Camp in 2007. I wouldn't hesitate to use either of them again. I'm pretty sure both of these companies will do private safaris for two with any itinerary you choose. Ours were custom itinerary for 6.

Joyce and Simon are the ground operators for the Botswana portion of some REI (the outdoor gear and clothing company) trips this year. You might think they would get "tired" of safaris since they do them all the time but I have to say they were always very eager to get going on the game drives. No lollygaggling in camp - let's go! They love being in the bush and it shows.

There are also other companies that offer mobile safaris that have been talked about here on fodors that a search will find.
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Old Mar 2nd, 2008, 07:51 AM
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Everyone's feedback is very useful, thanks. I have yet to hear back (it is the weekend, afterall) from any travel agents, so I'm holding off a bit. I would really like to find a lodge where I could go straight from Maun to hopefully keep the cost down. We'll see...

atravelynn, The raft seats 6-8 usually and has a guide. It is just my husband and I going so we will be put with other groups to fill the spaces. The rafting will be down the main Zambezi, deep as you say, but still with portages along the way. I've heard there are 1 or 2 the first day (depending on flow) and a few more the next 4 days (if you choose to go that long).

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Old Mar 2nd, 2008, 08:03 AM
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Near the Zambezi, the Royal Livingstone is probably the most posh hotel to stay at.

I was thinking of pre-booking a rafting trip, but didn't (I went in late July) and was glad since my luggage didn't make it with me. Took 4 days to get it. So pack a lot of things in your carry-on.

I stayed at Croc Camp in maun and it was quite nice. FYI - Maun was a bit better to shop than Livingstone in case you loose your luggage and the wine store (bottle shop) is really good.

Good luck and take lots of pictures.
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