Need help with family Kenya safari
Mar 30th, 2009, 03:51 PM
#21
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I've only been to Kenya once, so my suggestions are just based on that experience, but we had a wonderful trip.
On the way from Nairobi to Samburu, we spent one night at the Serena Mountain Lodge (Mount Kenya area). It really helped break the drive up, and we had a nice stay there with some great elephant and hyena action at the waterhole overnight. We also saw lots of monkeys, buffalo, bushbuck and waterbuck, genets and several types of mongoose, and a glorious view of Mt. Kenya from the rooftop the next morning. It was not as exciting as the Mara, but we still really enjoyed it. Evidently you can also go on guided forest walks and hikes from here, but we didn't get to the lodge early enough to do that. You're probably already aware that the drive to Samburu is a rough one, so you're smart to stop somewhere along the way!
We stayed at the Mara Serena for 3 nights and also liked it a lot. It's not a tented camp (which I know is everyone's preference here), but the views and location are great and we had some fantastic game drives, including a night drive -- at the time, 2007, the Serena was the only lodge allowed to do night drives inside the park, but that may have changed by now. As far as the bigger lodges go, we had a nice experience and would definitely consider staying there again. I was surprised by how much wildlife we heard from our room at night (lions, hippos, hyenas) and all the little critters hanging around the lodge (especially hyrzes, agama lizards, birds & bats). If you do stay here, it might be worth asking for one of the rooms on the very end. We had one of these rooms, and didn't hear much noise from other guests during our stay--just lots of wildlife sounds. I don't know anything about the other camps you've mentioned, so I can't compare them.
On the way from Nairobi to Samburu, we spent one night at the Serena Mountain Lodge (Mount Kenya area). It really helped break the drive up, and we had a nice stay there with some great elephant and hyena action at the waterhole overnight. We also saw lots of monkeys, buffalo, bushbuck and waterbuck, genets and several types of mongoose, and a glorious view of Mt. Kenya from the rooftop the next morning. It was not as exciting as the Mara, but we still really enjoyed it. Evidently you can also go on guided forest walks and hikes from here, but we didn't get to the lodge early enough to do that. You're probably already aware that the drive to Samburu is a rough one, so you're smart to stop somewhere along the way!
We stayed at the Mara Serena for 3 nights and also liked it a lot. It's not a tented camp (which I know is everyone's preference here), but the views and location are great and we had some fantastic game drives, including a night drive -- at the time, 2007, the Serena was the only lodge allowed to do night drives inside the park, but that may have changed by now. As far as the bigger lodges go, we had a nice experience and would definitely consider staying there again. I was surprised by how much wildlife we heard from our room at night (lions, hippos, hyenas) and all the little critters hanging around the lodge (especially hyrzes, agama lizards, birds & bats). If you do stay here, it might be worth asking for one of the rooms on the very end. We had one of these rooms, and didn't hear much noise from other guests during our stay--just lots of wildlife sounds. I don't know anything about the other camps you've mentioned, so I can't compare them.
Mar 30th, 2009, 05:53 PM
#22
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"Here is what we are now thinking:
2 days Nairobi at a B and B reccommended by a friend - will save us some money in Nairobi. "
I'd spend night 1 upon arrival, and night 2 after a day of Nairobi-based activities.
"Could also spend final night here."
You'll be less enthused about NBO activities at the end of your safari than at the start, I would guess. Put your NBO days up front. It also acts as a buffer if you should suffer a delay upon arrival.
"Then, drive to Samburu or Laikapia but stopping for a few nights on the way. WHAT is on the way???"
Aberdare: Treetops or The Ark
Overlook a lit waterhole where you can watch wildlife during the night. The Ark just got renovated I believe. When I was there, it was bustling and festive, better suited for the start than the end of a safari. You can put markings on your door to be awakened for certain animal sightings at the waterhole during the night.
The general routine for these is stop at the Aberdare Country Club for lunch, then arrive in the late afternoon for wildlife watching. If you are doing a private trip, cut short the lunch and spend some time in the Salient (forest of Aberdare).
Mt. Kenya: Serena Mountain Lodge
Overlooks a lit waterhole where you can watch wildlife during the night. I've recently heard that this is the best of the lit waterhole lodges to see animals at night.
Again, spend some time in Aberdare National Park enroute to Serena Mountain Lodge.
Sweetwaters: Another lit waterhole, but SW has tented camps. Not all of the tents have a view of the waterhole so you may want to ask for one. There is a Jane Goodall Chimp Sanctuary here for chimps that have been rescued from bad situations and now live in a natural setting. It is a rhino sanctuary and there is one you can pet.
I think you can travel through Aberdare enroute to SW, but not sure of the routing.
"QUESTION: How important is location on the Mara? "
In July too far NW is probably not where the bulk of the migration will be, but it is more secluded and away from people. You can drive to the wildebeest, as well as all over the Mara. I've been in the NW in July and saw lots.
Mara Leisure Camp - Most of it is a lodge with a few tents. Talek River area can be busy
Mara Timbo-Near Kichwa Tembo, northwest, but never heard of it
Tipilikwani--never heard of it
Karen Blixen Camp--on Mara River in NW--this is about same as Serena? That could be a deal.
"QUESTION: Is it worth staying two places in the Mara, that are not near each other? Will we see different things?
Or just stay one place. Probably spend 4 nights in the Mara. "
For 4 nts I'd stay in one place. For 5 or more, you might want to split, and do Mara Serena along with a tented camp.
All Seasons--I have heard of them.
2 days Nairobi at a B and B reccommended by a friend - will save us some money in Nairobi. "
I'd spend night 1 upon arrival, and night 2 after a day of Nairobi-based activities.
"Could also spend final night here."
You'll be less enthused about NBO activities at the end of your safari than at the start, I would guess. Put your NBO days up front. It also acts as a buffer if you should suffer a delay upon arrival.
"Then, drive to Samburu or Laikapia but stopping for a few nights on the way. WHAT is on the way???"
Aberdare: Treetops or The Ark
Overlook a lit waterhole where you can watch wildlife during the night. The Ark just got renovated I believe. When I was there, it was bustling and festive, better suited for the start than the end of a safari. You can put markings on your door to be awakened for certain animal sightings at the waterhole during the night.
The general routine for these is stop at the Aberdare Country Club for lunch, then arrive in the late afternoon for wildlife watching. If you are doing a private trip, cut short the lunch and spend some time in the Salient (forest of Aberdare).
Mt. Kenya: Serena Mountain Lodge
Overlooks a lit waterhole where you can watch wildlife during the night. I've recently heard that this is the best of the lit waterhole lodges to see animals at night.
Again, spend some time in Aberdare National Park enroute to Serena Mountain Lodge.
Sweetwaters: Another lit waterhole, but SW has tented camps. Not all of the tents have a view of the waterhole so you may want to ask for one. There is a Jane Goodall Chimp Sanctuary here for chimps that have been rescued from bad situations and now live in a natural setting. It is a rhino sanctuary and there is one you can pet.
I think you can travel through Aberdare enroute to SW, but not sure of the routing.
"QUESTION: How important is location on the Mara? "
In July too far NW is probably not where the bulk of the migration will be, but it is more secluded and away from people. You can drive to the wildebeest, as well as all over the Mara. I've been in the NW in July and saw lots.
Mara Leisure Camp - Most of it is a lodge with a few tents. Talek River area can be busy
Mara Timbo-Near Kichwa Tembo, northwest, but never heard of it
Tipilikwani--never heard of it
Karen Blixen Camp--on Mara River in NW--this is about same as Serena? That could be a deal.
"QUESTION: Is it worth staying two places in the Mara, that are not near each other? Will we see different things?
Or just stay one place. Probably spend 4 nights in the Mara. "
For 4 nts I'd stay in one place. For 5 or more, you might want to split, and do Mara Serena along with a tented camp.
All Seasons--I have heard of them.
Mar 30th, 2009, 06:29 PM
#23
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Just for clarification, the Aberdares is not exactly enroute to either Serena Mountain Lodge or Sweetwaters. The entrances are off of a different highway than the turnoff for Mountain Lodge and route to Sweetwaters so would require a bit of a detour or backtracking. I think it can be done if you left early enough but if you wanted to see the Aberdares, I would just stay there or nearby rather than continue elsewhere for your overnight.
Either Serena Mountain Lodge, Aberdares or Sweetwaters could be used to break up the drive to Samburu. Of the 3, Sweetwaters comes closest to being approx half way. The southern part of Laikipia is more or less "on the way" to Samburu.
Either Serena Mountain Lodge, Aberdares or Sweetwaters could be used to break up the drive to Samburu. Of the 3, Sweetwaters comes closest to being approx half way. The southern part of Laikipia is more or less "on the way" to Samburu.
Mar 31st, 2009, 06:05 AM
#24
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When heading north to Samburu many stop mid-way to break-up the 6/hr drive. The stop is either at Mt. Kenya for stay at the Serena Mountain Lodge or at the Aberdares for a visit to The Ark or Treetops. Then next day to Samburu.
On the way south, if not flying direct to the Masai Mara, rather driving to Lake Nakuru, many stop at Mt. Kenya for stay at Sweetwater's. Next day, head to Lk. Nakuru.
From Lake Nakuru you can continue by road (5-6/hrs) to the Masai Mara. Flying is an option if it works with your budget, but flight is out of Lake Naivasha, 1/hr south of Lake Nakuru.
Once in the Mara, you can split a 4/nt stay with two properties, one inside the Reserve and the other outside on the private group ranches where walking and night safaris can be done. You can split this with a lodge at one and a camp at the other. The transfer between the two, if have own vehicle/guide, is a game drive. If you have flown into the Mara (from Lk. Naivasha) it would be a road transfer with vehicle provided by the 1st place to the 2nd (or vice versa). There is a fee for the transfer, for the vehicle (not per person), but for a group of 5/pax is reasonable.
Tipilikwani-- - also located outside the Talek gate which has local villages nearby, a fenced camp.
On the way south, if not flying direct to the Masai Mara, rather driving to Lake Nakuru, many stop at Mt. Kenya for stay at Sweetwater's. Next day, head to Lk. Nakuru.
From Lake Nakuru you can continue by road (5-6/hrs) to the Masai Mara. Flying is an option if it works with your budget, but flight is out of Lake Naivasha, 1/hr south of Lake Nakuru.
Once in the Mara, you can split a 4/nt stay with two properties, one inside the Reserve and the other outside on the private group ranches where walking and night safaris can be done. You can split this with a lodge at one and a camp at the other. The transfer between the two, if have own vehicle/guide, is a game drive. If you have flown into the Mara (from Lk. Naivasha) it would be a road transfer with vehicle provided by the 1st place to the 2nd (or vice versa). There is a fee for the transfer, for the vehicle (not per person), but for a group of 5/pax is reasonable.
Tipilikwani-- - also located outside the Talek gate which has local villages nearby, a fenced camp.
Mar 31st, 2009, 09:41 AM
#25
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Just a few notes to add about Sweetwaters, if you decide on that option.
I believe the "tame" rhino Morani passed away last year, so petting a rhino is probably not an option there anymore. (Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.) But we did see other rhinos on our game drives, and a much wider variety of animals than I'd expected there.
We really enjoyed the early morning lion tracking with the rangers at Sweetwaters. Some of their lions are collared, and it was fun to talk with the rangers about them and see the cubs. This was an extra activity we signed up for through the lodge, in addition to our game drives with out own guide. They have night drives, too.
The chimp sanctuary is well worth a visit, but heartbreaking when you read the chimps' individual life stories.
Also, I agree with the tip to ask for a tent overlooking the waterhole. We saw a lot of activity there even during the day (giraffes, impalas, zebras, warthogs). Even though the "rooms" are tents, Sweetwaters felt more like a lodge than a tented camp to us. We still enjoyed the activities here and think it's a worthwhile stop.
I believe the "tame" rhino Morani passed away last year, so petting a rhino is probably not an option there anymore. (Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.) But we did see other rhinos on our game drives, and a much wider variety of animals than I'd expected there.
We really enjoyed the early morning lion tracking with the rangers at Sweetwaters. Some of their lions are collared, and it was fun to talk with the rangers about them and see the cubs. This was an extra activity we signed up for through the lodge, in addition to our game drives with out own guide. They have night drives, too.
The chimp sanctuary is well worth a visit, but heartbreaking when you read the chimps' individual life stories.
Also, I agree with the tip to ask for a tent overlooking the waterhole. We saw a lot of activity there even during the day (giraffes, impalas, zebras, warthogs). Even though the "rooms" are tents, Sweetwaters felt more like a lodge than a tented camp to us. We still enjoyed the activities here and think it's a worthwhile stop.
Mar 31st, 2009, 10:41 AM
#26
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<i>I believe the "tame" rhino Morani passed away last year, so petting a rhino is probably not an option there anymore.</i>
You're right http://www.fodors.com/community/afri...aters-dies.cfm
You're right http://www.fodors.com/community/afri...aters-dies.cfm
Mar 31st, 2009, 10:49 AM
#27
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Tent #4 (front row) at Sweetwaters had a good view of the waterhole. The tents are arranged in two rows with the back row tents elevated but I think those would still be somewhat obstructed. OTOH kimburu had a tent not facing the waterhole at all and reported good sightings http://www.fodors.com/community/afri...ember-2006.cfm
Mar 31st, 2009, 11:46 AM
#28
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Is Sweetwaters good for 2 nights? In other words, drive from Nairobi to Sweetwaters for two nights, then to Samburu for 2 nights, then fly to the masai Mara for 4 nights...or, would you only spend one at Sweetwaters and one somewhere else?
In the Mara, would you stay at the serena for location, or a tented camp with a longer drive to the crossing, if we get lucky and there is one?
Thanks so much...again. July is coming soon so we better make reservations....
In the Mara, would you stay at the serena for location, or a tented camp with a longer drive to the crossing, if we get lucky and there is one?
Thanks so much...again. July is coming soon so we better make reservations....
Mar 31st, 2009, 02:01 PM
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I'm sure you'll get other opinions from the old Kenya hands, but here's my two cents:
If you decide to go to Sweetwaters I think it's worth staying 2 nights, to take advantage of the extra activites like the lion tracking and night game drives (and I think they might also offer walking, if you are interested in that). I also prefer to minimize the one-night stays if possible so you can settle in and enjoy a place a bit longer.
As for your Mara question, we had the same question (and were also concerned with budget), so that's why we chose the Serena lodge. From my (admittedly limited) experience, it does seem like location is important if your guide hears about a crossing and is trying to get you there quickly... but as we all know, no one can predict when and where those will happen!
It sounds like you guys would really like to have the tented camp experience -- where were you thinking of staying in Samburu? (sorry if you've already posted that and I missed it) What about a tented camp in Samburu (Larsen's, Elephant Bedroom), plus Sweetwaters (tented, but more like a lodge), and then Mara Serena?
If you decide to go to Sweetwaters I think it's worth staying 2 nights, to take advantage of the extra activites like the lion tracking and night game drives (and I think they might also offer walking, if you are interested in that). I also prefer to minimize the one-night stays if possible so you can settle in and enjoy a place a bit longer.
As for your Mara question, we had the same question (and were also concerned with budget), so that's why we chose the Serena lodge. From my (admittedly limited) experience, it does seem like location is important if your guide hears about a crossing and is trying to get you there quickly... but as we all know, no one can predict when and where those will happen!
It sounds like you guys would really like to have the tented camp experience -- where were you thinking of staying in Samburu? (sorry if you've already posted that and I missed it) What about a tented camp in Samburu (Larsen's, Elephant Bedroom), plus Sweetwaters (tented, but more like a lodge), and then Mara Serena?
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