Mashatu: trip report + pictures
 

Hello everyone,

If you hear people talking about Botswana, they mainly mention "the Okavango delta".

Well I spent some time in the Tuli Block (Mashatu) and was delighted that I booked a long stay.

Trip report + pictures can be seen by clicking on the following link:

http://www.aardvarktravel.net/chat/v...ic.php?t=36105

Enjoy, Johan

PS: downloading can be slow if you don't have a fast connection.

Johan - this report and the associated photos made my day as I just booked an 8 day stay in the Mashatu tented camp for October of this year. I no doubt will read this several times before I depart.

Thrilled to read this in your report as hyenas are one of my favorite animals to observe and listen to:

"Hyenas were seen on many occasions and were great to watch."


It always tough to view your photos and pick out favorites as they are all such high quality images, but I must say you made those warthogs look like super models and that white fronted bea eater with its tail fanned clinging to the rock was outstanding.

Can you decribe the hide? How many people can fit into it comfortably? How far away from water hole?

I see you did a several night walking overnight trip. Did you do any day walks from camp or the predator research drive? Did you pre-arrange your overnight or just arrange it on the spur of moment while there?

one word: WOW!
I think I throw away my camera.
Unbelievable pics.
How did you get into that low angle on the two lion shots?
Congrats
Thomas

Hi Johan,

Your pictures are SUPERB as always ..... like I mentioned the other day, quite a source of inspiration for many of us who view them. So, thanks for posting.......

Although, it will be silly of me to pick favourites - You will know that I enjoyed the cheetah ones which were in fantastic light. The other picture that really screamed out to me was the sunset one with the vibrant colors - the violet and orange ....... I don't think I have seen anything like that. You think the sunset scenery a little more dramatic compared to delta/Linyanti? or just one of those days? The Eland pics were stunning too. I saw some Eland in Kenya recently, but, they were all very skittish........

I also enjoyed your trip report - and yes, lots of places are losing the wilderness appeal. The walking safari sounds good too and the pictures of the tents and set up were appealing too.

I found the funny moments very interesting to read, also.

Regards,
Hari

Lovely pictures, and thanks for the report of your experience at Mashatu -- it's on the itinerary I'm planning for 2009 (unfortunately, I can only do one a year...). Fabulous that you had such great luck with the predators, I'm hoping a long stay will produce similar good results!

Hari when I was in Mashatu I got some really good sunset pictures as well. So maybe it is a Mashatu thing.

How nice to see such a lovely reminder of our trip to Mashatu, we loved it there too. Your photos are indeed fabulous. One of my favourites must be the "talk to the paw ..." lion. We're hoping to do the walk with Paul on our next trip so was good to hear the details, thanks.

Did you do the ivory or predator drives?

Johan - Many thanks for a great trip report and photos on Mashatu. Mashatu interests a lot of us and your report really helps. Two very active Fodorites, Carla and Cindy should be there just about now. They flew into JNB Monday and rented/hired a car to drive to Mashatu. Then after (?x) days drive back down to MalaMala.

I agree, that the afternoon game drives tend to start too late. By the time we find the lions/leopards the sun is setting and the best light has gone. Never fails. I encourage the guide to leave as soon as possible in the afternoon. What I always hear is "well, that is the winter/summer drive schedule". But the sun light doesn't know winter from summer. So I encourage the guide to start as early in the afternoon as possible. (Morning game drives do not generally have this problem).

I'm also not a "twitcher" (not heard that before, funny) but also very much like birds. I also like to stay at a camp several days. Every game drive is different, I love every one, and I relax knowing that something fantastic is bound to happen.

Thanks again - Tom

aowens
You're probably asking skimmer but I repeat what I wrote in a previous post about the predator and ivory drives in case it's of interest to you ...
We did a couple of predator drives in Mashatu in 2006 with the resident leopard researcher. He has moved on but someone else has taken over, I think concentrating more on lion research, skimmer might be able to fill you in. We had the most brilliant sitings with him, and contrary to his experiences we found the leopards were so used to the researcher's vehicle we got very close, 2 youngsters in particular just lolled around a few feet from us like big pussy cats, paws in the air (waiting to have a go at Mum's wathog carcass). We also went on the elephant researcher's drive, and she too was very informative about the elephants and we got very close to the herds because they are used to her.
The Mashatu newsletters are very interesting if you want to get an idea of what goes on there, though I haven't seen one on the website since last August.

Thanks for the very detailed and informative report on Mashatu.It appears to be viable option to the overly expensive Okavango and Linyanti areas
The photos, as usual, are excellent.

Hello everyone,

Thank you all for your nice comments.

Some answers:

The hide is a stone building and can accomodate 6 people if they are all serious photographers.

The lowest level (2 people) and the upper level (4 people). For photographings elephants I prefer the lowest level and for the rest I was mainly sitting on the upper deck.

They have around 10 plastic chairs in the hide.

I would say that the hide is roughly 7-8 meters away from the waterhole.

Given the time I was there I didn't prebook my walking safari. I would say in low season you don't have to prebook this. With high occupancy it would be safer to arrange this before your arrival.

I didn't do any ivory or predator drives. On one of the days the elephant researcher was having brunch with us after being on a drive with other people. She's a very nice woman and surely knows something about elephants after such a long time being there. People that did those drives where very happy with it.

With regard to the predator drives, I didn't go cause I wasn't really interested in photographing collared predators. There is a new guy doing the predator research and he told people he's planning to collar some more leopards. Didn't hear anything about the lions actually.

I asked if the former researcher produced a paper after his time being there and they told me he didn't.

When I was there, some people did those drives just to be able to see a leopard up close. Because I have seen many leopards on previous trips at close quarters, I didn't feel the need to do it.

If the collaring has an effect on those cats or not is a controversial issue. Some will say yes and others will say not at all.

I like to take low angle shots and Mashatu is quite good for that because of the following reasons:

- no doors at the front;
- lots of dry riverbeds.

The lion shots were taken when the lions were resting on one of the banks and I asked my guide to place vehicle so that I was almost at eye level with those cats.

The sunset picture was taken after the sun sat down already and colours were changing constantly. I used a tripod for this one.

Greetz,

Johan

Thanks for sharing these Johan, excellent as always. It reminds me alot of my time on Lapalala Wilderness South Africa's Waterburg.

" I asked if the former researcher produced a paper after his time being there and they told me he didn't"

We've taken an interest in his work since we visited and received an email from him early 2008 saying:

'As you may be aware, the Northern Tuli Leopard Project has come to an end in the field and I am back in South Africa writing up my dissertation titled: The socio-spatial ecology of leopards (Panthera pardus) in the Northern Tuli Game Reserve, Botswana.'

Don't know how far he's got with it!

If you are interested in leopard data in that area his newsletters and surveys are still available at:
http://www.tulileopard.co.za/

Tockoloshe and Johan - thanks for the info on the predator and ivory drives. We will be there December 1 and I am trying to decide if we want to do this. Johan - one other question - I originally had the tents booked, but then read somewhere (I think on this forum) that the ensuite bathrooms were actually about 10 feet behind the tents. My impression was that you had to go outside of your tent to get to the bathroom. We changed to the lodge because of this - my 76 year old mom isn't willing to deal with potties that aren't actually in the tent! Can you clarify. Thanks, Ann

Thank you very much for your info on the leopard research.

What I wrote down here was based on what I heard on the field. So will be interesting to see what he has to tell in his paper.

Ann,

You are right about the ensuite bathrooms.

Best regards,

Johan

aowens,
Not sure the experience you are looking for, but both of my parents (in their mid 70's) and I stayed in the tents at Mashatu last year. The loo is not in the tent, but as you said behind the tent, but it is all private and enclosed. We all made plenty of late night trips with a flash light.
The lodge is lovely, but a completely different experience. Not sure if that helps, but wanted to add my experience. Either way, Mashatu is wonderful and I am sure both of you will enjoy!

Johan,
Sorry forgot to tell you, the photo's were fabulous. They certainly took us back to our time at great trip to Mashatu.
thanks,

betsyatl - thanks for the info. BTW are you in Atlanta? I am in St. Simons. Just curious. Sorry to get off topic! Anyway, the bathrooms are definintely an issue for mom. The lodge I am sure will be fine. I assure you there is no point in trying to convince Mom that the trip with the flashlight to the potty is a good idea. We will have a great time either way. Thanks! Ann

Ann,
You are correct, there is no way to convince a "Mom" of anything. I am sure you will love the Lodge, it looked lovely. If you get the opportunity to go and view the tented area, then go and have a "looksie". A very different experience. Enjoy!
PS: I previously lived in Duluth, GA, but have since moved to Wine Country, CA.
Betsy

Hello Johan,

Very interesting and exhaustive report. I've been several times to Botswana, mainly in the Linyanti, but never to Mashutu though my agent always adviced me to go there. Further to your report and excellent photos an also because I prefer rustic and old-fashioned camps, I might go there in a near future.
Perhaps, one day we might see each other because I think that at the world's level, we are neighbours.

Mike

Johan,
Thanks for another really informative and well presented report! This is just the kind of thing that really helps others who are considering a future visit to the camp.
Your photos, as always, are a pleasure. I especially like the hyena mother carrying the cub and several of the bird shots though there are many others I also enjoyed.
I would say that it's noticable that more shots are taken in harsher light than your normal photos as I think I'm right in saying that you usually take more in the golden hours where the light is warm toned and softer.
Thanks again, Johan!

Thanks again everyone.

A lot of photos were taken between 11 and 3 while I was sitting in the hide. So light was indeed a lot harsher.

Mornings were sometimes a bit difficult cause some sightings were quite far from camp and I couldn't go out earlier like I used to when I have a private vehicle at my disposal.

I haven't shown my best photos, which most of them are taken in golden light.

Greetz,

Johan

I wonder how long Mashatu will remain the bargain that it currently is.

Your pictures are amazing as always. The red billed quelea flock and hyena with the cub in its mouth were especially unique.

You mentioned cheetahs are hard to see at the time of year you were in Mashatu, but you had some photos of them, even a tree climbing cheetah.

The waterhole was very productive for you.

How nice you got a leg stretch in the middle of your stay with a walking safari.

Your no sweets on safari rule is almost as impressive as your photography.

"Your no sweets on safari rule is almost as impressive as your photography."

Discipline that no mere mortals possess!!!

Yes Lynn the value proposition is attractive, but the transfer costs offset it somewhat - especially for a solo non-self driving traveler such as myslef. Even so, in my research if you wanted a tented camp non-lodge experience in a non-crowded area this seems like a a good value.

Wonderful trip report, and as usual fantastic photos Johan. It's hard for me to choose a favorite, they were all so good. Did I read correctly, that you were there for three weeks? How wonderful!

Thanks again.

The no sweets rule came after previous mistakes in the early days. It took me too long to get in shape again after gaining too much weight.

That's what I call experience now.


Mashatu definitely needs a revisit in summertime because of the following reasons:

- birdlife (summer migrants);
- green grasses and flowers;
- wonderful sunsets;
- young antelopes;
- cheetah???.

Greetz,

Johan

Good tip, Johan. Especially, those cookies and scones and muffins and things all add up ........ I'd rather say no to those and eat the dessert on some of the evenings.

Excellent pictures Johan. Brought back memories from our trip in September.

You seem to have got a lot of excellent pictures from the hide. Also the concession looks a lot greener than at the end of the dry season when its completely parched and all animals gather near the Limpopo.

Elephant herds are awesome too.

"A lot of photos were taken between 11 and 3 while I was sitting in the hide. So light was indeed a lot harsher.

Mornings were sometimes a bit difficult cause some sightings were quite far from camp and I couldn't go out earlier like I used to when I have a private vehicle at my disposal.

I haven't shown my best photos, which most of them are taken in golden light."

Thanks for clarifying, Johan. Don't get me wrong, the images you have shared here are still very good but not quite as stunning as some of yours that I have enjoyed in the past. I felt it might be down to not having a private vehicle and hence shooting more in the harsher light than you usually do. And also, if you are not showcasing the best of your work (which is fair enough) that also explains it.

Can you elaborate on the cheetah in the summer. They go elsewhere in the dry season?

At least you learn from your sweets mistakes.

Hi Johan,
While at Mashatu tented camp a few weeks ago, our ranger Richard was talking about a guy that was there for 21 days before us named Johan and we said "it must to be you"! As usual your photos are fantastic and the critters looked very familiar.

We had an "encounter" with a porcupine by our tent the first night, saw Cheetah 5 days out of 6, wild dogs on a very fresh (15 mins) warthog kill, plus so much more than I am hoping to write about soon. Mashatu stole my heart and I can't wait to go back.

Wasn't that "knock-knock" in the morning great!? The first day he said it so softly it didn't work.

Thanks for sharing your photos and report. Lots of great details and you put a big smile on my face too! <):)

Carla glad to hear that you enjoyed Mashatu......not a day goes by that I do not think about my time there. My wife and I talk all the time how relaxing it was. 2 1/2 days was not enough...we are trying to go back in the near future.

Scott

Carla,

I am glad you enjoyed your stay at Mashatu. And from what I hear, you had good gameviewing too.

I am looking forward to see your pictures and read your trip report.

I found it a very cosy camp and hope to return in one of the next summer seasons for another long stay.


Best regards,

Johan

Hi Johan,
I am not sure if you saw my post today on the Pete's Pond thread, but there was sad news that Paul from Mashatu died suddenly yesterday while cycling on the Tour de Kruger. Everyone is shocked and saddened by the news. I thought you would like to know. I have been digging through my files to find the words to his "morning wake up song" with no success. Any chance you have them? My email address is kingsis33 at aol dot com.
You have some great photos of him as well that I was wondering if you would like to share on the Nat Geo forum. Thanks, Carla

Carla,

I just sent you an e-mail.

Paul was a great guy and I am really shocked by his death.

Johan