Mara trip report - Emakoko, Rekero and Mara Plains

Feb 16th, 2012, 02:09 PM
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Mara trip report - Emakoko, Rekero and Mara Plains

We have just returned from another fantastic trip to the Mara. On this trip we spent a night at a new Nairobi hotel (Emakoko) followed by three nights at Rekero and three nights at Mara Plains camp.

Photo link below- apologies in advance for those of you who don’t like big cat photos !!


When we have travelled to Kenya in the past, as the BA flight arrives very late at night, we have generally spent the night at one the hotels in the city centre. On this occasion we decided to give the Emakoko a try. It has just opened (we were the third guests !) and is a luxury lodge right on the edge of the Nairobi National Park. In fact, access to the lodge is through the park so we started with 30 minute night drive from the and, the following morning, we had a morning drive en route to Wilson airport. One of the reasons we chose the Emakoko is that we needed a day room on our final day and wanted to stay somewhere a little different as we have already visited the Giraffe centre, Daphne Sheldrick etc …

The lodge had just opened with five rooms complete and the rest due for completion in the next few weeks. The rooms are all individually constructed to a very high standard and the site very big. The food was excellent and there will be a swimming pool ready for use in the next few days. I suspect that their target market is the Ngong House / Giraffe Manor clientele. We have stayed at Giraffe Manor before and Emakoko was much better in terms of accommodation, food and location but does not have the Giraffe Manor history (instead it has the Nairobi NP). I would choose Emakoko for return visits although could understand ‘first timers’ wanting to visit Giraffe Manor. Emma Childs and Anton Walker are excellent hosts and have invested a lot of time and money in what is quite a brave venture – it deserves to succeed and I really hope it does.

It has been thirty years since I have been to Nairobi National Park and had low expectations. I was however very pleasantly surprised. On our morning drive to Wilson airport we saw three white rhinos and a male lion and on our afternoon drive, two black rhino and another lion. There was also a lot of plains game – mainly zebra, buffalo and hartebeest.

Rekero camp

Our first three nights in the Mara were spent at Rekero camp. The camp itself was excellent – well hosted by Clea and Conway, very good food, nice tents and an excellent location on the Talek river with lots of night time noise from the hippos, lions and elephants ! There was also an excellent group of people staying at the camp when we were there, hosted by Andy Rouse, the professional wildlife photographer. We had an exclusive vehicle and the game drives were totally flexible (except that we had to be back in camp by around 7.15pm as the camp is within the reserve). We chose to have a picnic breakfast in the bush each morning – the settings were fantastic but the picnic breakfasts a bit basic. Martin was an excellent guide and great fun.

We knew in advance that the grass in the Mara was long, which made for more difficult game viewing than is normally the case. Plains game was concentrated in areas where the grass was shorter – in particular, the area around Topi Plains was teeming with zebra, topi, wildebeest, eland and gazelles. We had good lion sightings but were unlucky with leopard which you normally expect to see in the Rekero area. Cheetah numbers are sadly reducing in the Mara and we only saw one whilst at Rekero. We also saw a rare black rhino and a wonderful hyena den with pups of varying ages. Whilst the reserve itself was only about 50% full (at a guess), the main sightings did attract a number of vehicles. We only saw a maximum of seven at any one sighting but heard a case of 20 vehicles around a cheetah further east in the reserve. This is somewhat worrying given it is only mid season and was a consequence of low cheetah numbers and hard game spotting generally because of the grass.

Mara Plains

After three excellent nights at Rekero we moved on to Mara Plains which, although only a 45 minute drive away, is situated in the Olare Orok conservancy just to the north of the reserve. The main advantage of this conservancy is the reduced vehicle numbers (only three small camps), the ability to drive “off road” and to undertake night drives. These advantages proved to be critical as we had fantastic cheetah and leopard sightings – initially on our own and only eventually joined by a couple of other vehicles. I think the conservancy is trying to follow the South African private reserve rules and only allow up to four cars (the original spotter plus three others) at a sighing at any one time. On previous visits, the downside to conservancies has been cattle grazing – at Olare Orok it was well managed, non invasive and actually improved game viewing because of the resultant lower grass levels.

Our main guide (other than for the first evening drive) was Ping, one of the most senior guides in the Mara. His knowledge of the area, fauna and flora, was exceptional – certainly the best guide we have ever had. We found most of our own animals and you could sense his disappointment when we were searching for something specific only to find that another vehicle had found the animal before us ! On our first evening we had an astonishing leopard sighting – we were on our own with a female leopard for around 4 hours when she started to hunt at around 9pm, caught a dik-dik, carried it for one km and then deposited it in a tree. She then walked for another 500m when we heard a squeak from the bushes and her six week old cub appeared ! The following morning we returned before sunrise and had mother and cub (and dead dik-dik) to ourselves for another two hours. None of this would have been possible inside the reserve as we would have had to return to the camp by 7.15pm and there would have been many more vehicles. We also had a very good cheetah sighting – again spotted by us and on our own with them for an hour. I think that the conservancies, if well managed, will be the future of the Mara - certainly at the higher end of the market.

The camp itself was fantastic. Richard and Lorna were superb hosts with Richard’s stories particularly enthralling. The food was fantastic, as was the service generally.

Overall, another fantastic trip. These camps were the seventh and eighth we have visited in the Mara and are the two best we have visited (and some of the others we have visited have been more expensive). It was tougher to spot the cats because of the grass but that made it all the better when we found them !

philw is offline  
Feb 17th, 2012, 02:57 PM
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Thanks for sharing your thoughts and images from your trip. It has really got me looking forward to my 2 week safari at Mara Plains at the start of March.

Quick question, as the grasses currently lower in the Olare Orok than the main reverse?
lbj2 is offline  
Feb 17th, 2012, 09:35 PM
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Thanks for the "news" - especially about Emakoko, as Emma and Anthony are great people and that is such a very cool concept they have. So glad to hear that it works!
kimburu is offline  
Feb 18th, 2012, 11:17 AM
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Wow, two weeks at Mara Plains ! I assume you are a repeat visitor as you are staying for so long ?

Yes, the grass was shorter at least in part of the Olare Orok conservancy - ironically because of the cattle grazing a few weeks ago in certain parts. Our guide said that he thought the long grass would flatten / die in the next fortnight so I am sure you will have a fantastic time. The plains game have also started moving down from Loita which should mean some exciting big cat / herbivore interaction. I am green with envy ...
philw is offline  
Feb 20th, 2012, 04:55 AM
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Thanks for your reply, Phil.

This is actually my first time to the Mara, though I tend to prefer to spend a couple of weeks in a single area.

My agent speaks very highly of this camp.
lbj2 is offline  
Feb 20th, 2012, 09:49 AM
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Phil, you should post your Trip Report and Pics at Safaritalk, as I a lot of people would be interested in reading it.

You can also embed images into your posts.
lbj2 is offline  
Feb 20th, 2012, 04:41 PM
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Nice images. Was on Olare Orok at Kicheche Bush a couple of years ago and really thought it a well-run conservancy. I enjoyed your report--glad you both had a good time. Thanks, phil.
Leely2 is offline  
Feb 20th, 2012, 05:09 PM
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Thanks for the Emakoko review. Mission accomplished. Was there any talk about the road proposed to cut through Nairobi National Park? Glad you saw some good wildlife in the park.

Thank you for the Rekero and Mara Plains info. Great photo album. High grasses didn't slow you down. Very encouraging to see the black rhinos.
atravelynn is offline  
Feb 21st, 2012, 08:29 AM
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Thanks for all the comments.

lbj2 : if this is your first trip, I strongly recommend you request Ping as a guide - it may be difficult to get him for the whole two weeks as he is often requested by repeat visitors in particular. The other two guides (Daniel and Kevin) are also very good but Ping is the head guide and that bit more experienced and knowledgeable.

Lynn, no I didn't hear anything of a road cutting through the Nairobi NP. In a magazine I read there was however talk of a new road outside the park but it didn't seem imminent !

philw is offline  
Feb 22nd, 2012, 10:05 PM
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Thank you, Phil, for the great words and photos TR>

What is the room rate at Emokoko? It' s not shown on the website.
CaliNurse is offline  
Feb 26th, 2012, 07:37 AM
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Hi CaliNurse

I believe the full board rate is around $360 pppn but I would imagine there is the
scope to negotiate a discount given it has just opened. Rates include all drinks and game drives.
The dayroom rate was $110pppn including lunch, game drive and drinks.

Hope thus helps.

philw is offline  
Feb 26th, 2012, 01:36 PM
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Wonderful pictures of the baby leopard!
linjudy is offline  
Mar 28th, 2012, 12:11 AM
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Thanks for the info and for sharing the report, philw.
Super_LEEDS is offline  
Jun 15th, 2012, 06:23 PM
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Thanks for your report. I am considering Rekero camp and glad to hear that you liked it. How did you get there and how much did it cost to get there. Thanks!
sdtravels is offline  
Jun 16th, 2012, 09:55 AM
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i booked through 'Bush and Beyond' and paid $425 per person per night plus Park fees (around $80 per person per night I think). We flew into the 'Ol Kiombo' airstrip - it is a 20 minute drive from there.

Hope this helps.
philw is offline  
Jun 16th, 2012, 11:19 AM
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Thanks for the road info Philw.
atravelynn is offline  
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