Mara into Serengetti
 

Hi,
Into pre-planning a Kenyan safari with Naked Wilderness. Then decided to add Ngorongoro and Serengetti but my contact has us either flying to Arusha from Mara or driving back into Nairobi. Isn't it possible to cross into Tanzania closer to Mara and make the trip a loop? I chose Naked Wilderness because 2Afrika clients on this board seemed pleased with their service and their prices seem reasonable.
Thanks!

You can cross at the Isebania/Sirari(sp?) border which is west of the Masai Mara and Serengeti. It's a loop but a big loop.

I haven't done it but did look into it. Most people chose to break up the drive into 2 days with an overnight at Speke Bay Lodge on Lake Victoria. I believe it's about 3 hours from the Masai Mara to the border crossing and another 3 hours from the border crossing to Speke Bay. Then 4 hours from Speke Bay to the central Serengeti the following day. If you're staying in the western Serengeti, then it may be possible to do the transfer in one day.

I think some tour operators are reluctant to coordinate this transfer as it involves 2 empty trips for their vehicles and driver/guides so this cost has to be passed on to the client (you switch vehicles and guides at the border and most likely they need to return to/come from Nairobi/Arusha).

Ask your tour operator for a quote with this western border crossing and compare with the cost of transferring via Nairobi/Arusha.

I don't know what the current policy/situation is with crossing from the Sand River gate of the Masai Mara directly into the Serengeti. I haven't heard of anyone doing this except in self drive vehicles, so I don't know if tour operators are restricted from doing this or what.

Anyone else have any insight? Eben, I know you mentioned previously that special permission is required to cross here, do you have any more info? It would be great if this crossing could be used as all of the other alternatives involve going quite a bit out of the way.

Hi Travellin,

We just returned two weeks ago from our trip to Kenya/Tanzania (too lazy to put a trip report up as of yet)and did cross at the Isebania border. We stayed at the Mara Sopa which is on the eastern border of the park so it was a long trip - 9 hours from the Sopa to Kirawira in the Western Corridor of the Serengeti. It was prehaps the bumpiest of our legs (yes, even worse than the drive from Isiolo to Samburu) until we reached the A-1 Trans African Highway. Overall, I am glad we decided to do a land crossing as I enjoyed seeing non-tourists. Of course having a glass of Moet-Chandon when you first arrive at Kirawira didn't hurt either. If you do make the trip, try to stay on the western half of the Mara and finish at either Kirawira or Grumeti.

As for the border crossing inside the park - the Kenyans told me it was for "security reasons" and the Tanzanians claim the Kenyans were crossing into the Serengeti and not paying. Regardless of the reason, I don't think it will be open anytime soon.

Welcome back, vacationbennett! Looking forward to hearing more about your trip.

travellin,
This map shows the location of the Isebania border relative to the Mara Reserve -

http://www.kenyatravelmaps.com/western/map.htm

Truth is there are a number of border crossings, however the major issue is permitted vehicles crossing the border. Without the right permit it can't be done.

So, operators find it less expensive to fly you from Nairobi than getting the permits for their vehicles to cross over.

Thanks for the clarification. On my map (in guide book) the Serengetti and Mara look adjacent so I couldn't understand the logic of going back to Nairobi. Now it makes sense and I think we'll fly to Arusha!

The permits are not necessary to cross at Sand River. It is finding the tour operator willing to do this. independent 4x4 travellers are doing this crossing.

Luanga is correct.

I was at the Bologonja Gate this past June and talked to the chief warden there. He told me the following:

1. Private cars can cross with no problems as long as your visa is fine.

2. Cars registered to tour companies must have special permission to cross (either coming in or leaving). This permission is not automatic and requires good reasoning - (my personal note: ...and whatever else since this is Africa after all ;

3. The office on the Tanzania side is very small and they certainly cannot (and don't want to) process dozens of vehicles crossing there daily.

4. I don't know what happens on the Mara side since the Tanzanians would not let me cross to find out (I was in a vehicle registered to a tour company without permission to cross!)

The most noticable difference is that the staff is for lack of a better word-mercenary.

RE: Bologonja Gate

The gate has been closed for crossing for most for many years. Kenyan interests were crossing the border into the Serengeti to take tourists on day trips. So not much income was going to Tanzanians and there would be less business for a lodge on the Tanzanian side of the border. Kenyan tourism interests are much more mass market than Tanzania. Yes Ngorongoro crater in Tanzania can be quite crowded with safari vehicles. But in the Serengeti, especially in the northern Serengeti, the density of safari vehicles is quite low compared with the Mara.

A different philosophy continues to this day and regional integration of travel borders for Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda remain an issue especially with respect to tourism. Tanzania stands to lose a lot (income and balance with protecting ecosystem) if there is a flood of vehicles from Kenya to Tanzania directly from Mara to Serengeti. See http://travelvideo.tv/news/more.php?id=A1147_0_1_0_M

hmmm...So your saying that maybe Scotty beamed me and my landrover across the border, because I certainly didn't drive around.

Maybe what the article is trying to saying that commercial operators are restricted at that that border, but it is a fact that the independent tourist is crossing there in their own vehicles.

Sorry if I sounded contradictory. It is closed "for most" as I had mentioned. There are exceptions of course but in general the tour operators cannot ferry tourist across there. I have no first-hand knowledge about private vehicles (self-drive safari) so can't comment and presume you are right.

I guess the other thing to keep in mind is that immigration/customs people, no matter the country, wield so much "power" so even if something is accepted or normally accepted for a particular group, immigration/customs can make things difficult and delay/deny access.

Hi, I am going to Kenya, Tanzania in November and am making last minute plans. I have a tour operator taking us from the Mara to Isebania and then to the Speke Bay Lodge. I am assuming from the comments posted here, that its not an issue to cross at Isebenia. Do you get to see Lake Victoria from this crossing point?

Never mind. I figured out that the lodge is on the Lake. It sounds nice. Unless, I hear otherwise, I think we'll try this.

I don't think there's a problem crossing at Isebania. Speke Bay Lodge is located on the shores of Lake Victoria. Have a great trip!

Somebody I know wants to join a tour that visits both Kenya and Tanzania. On day 7 they are staying at the Mara Serena Lodge and on day 8 the itinerary says that they will cross from Masai Mara into the Serengeti and drive up to Mbuzi Mawe Tented Camp.
Is this in fact possible (the group would be min 15 , max 18 persons)??
How long does it approx take to drive from Mara Serena, pass the border and drive up to Mbuze Mawe tented camp?

thanks,
hilde

It's just about a full day of driving from the Mara to the Serengeti.

From the Mara to the Isebania border is about about 2.5 to 3/hrs; another 2/hrs to the entry of the Western Serengeti; 2.5 to 3/hrs to the Central Serengeti and than 1/hr north to Mbuze Mawe = a full day. And that doesn't include any stops for game viewing along the way; not arriving at camp until almost dark.

A number of tour operators choose this route which saves on air transfers, but it's a long day and hard on the bottom.

By air you would take the 11am flight from the Mara to NBO; the 12:40pm flight to JRO; the 2pm (or thereabouts) flight to the Central Serengeti from where you'd do a road transfer to Mbuzi Mawe, arriving here in time for late afternoon game drive and then sundowners and dinner. Definitely more costly, but saves bumping around the roads (some black tops) others not.

Hope this helps.

Sandi,

Is there decent game viewing from the Mara to the Isebania border? and from the border to the western serengeti? If it is a nice drive, then, i guess it's better than flying the entire day...?

Thanks
Hari

To Vacationbennet
Was your trip organised through Tauck? if so, was it realy as good as it sounds in the brochure. I am leaving on the July 29 trip. Have you any advice for a couple of Aussies?
Thanks

Gill