Lions roar at night - trip report Botswana 08/09
Sep 28th, 2009, 05:08 PM
#21
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Will we see any of those "tame African Hoopoes"?
3 leopards? Must have been a mom and cubs or a female with 2 suitors?
Knowing the fate of the adorable sand grouse chick does not make it any less cute, but makes me feel bad.
Do I congratulate you or offer pity for having the noisiest night in the bush?
3 leopards? Must have been a mom and cubs or a female with 2 suitors?
Knowing the fate of the adorable sand grouse chick does not make it any less cute, but makes me feel bad.
Do I congratulate you or offer pity for having the noisiest night in the bush?
Sep 28th, 2009, 09:55 PM
#22
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Lynn,
Unfortunately the hoopoes won't make any appearance here.
3 leopards: it was a female and a cub accompanied by a male. An unusual sighting I have to say.
You can congratulate me now but offer pity for what's still waiting for me at Xakanaka.
Cheers,
Johan
Unfortunately the hoopoes won't make any appearance here.
3 leopards: it was a female and a cub accompanied by a male. An unusual sighting I have to say.
You can congratulate me now but offer pity for what's still waiting for me at Xakanaka.
Cheers,
Johan
Sep 29th, 2009, 05:04 PM
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OK, congratulations and here is a question.
With the unpredictable weather making advance reservations less desirable, what do you think about showing up in Maun and heading to the Wilderness or Kwando (or maybe another company) office and seeing what's available for the next x # of days or weeks? That would be for one person. I realize a group would have trouble getting lots of beds.
With the unpredictable weather making advance reservations less desirable, what do you think about showing up in Maun and heading to the Wilderness or Kwando (or maybe another company) office and seeing what's available for the next x # of days or weeks? That would be for one person. I realize a group would have trouble getting lots of beds.
Sep 29th, 2009, 10:03 PM
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Lynn,
If you are extremely keen to visit a specific area, it's not really an option to take into consideration.
On the other hand, if you are happy with what you can get (I guess you have plenty of camps to choose from), it will save you money and you know by then which places to go to or not.
A lot of people actually don't dare to travel this way ...
http://moremi.earth-touch.com/ -> it's already raining right now -> actually I told Hari that I expected some early rains this year given the fact that in August clouds were already building up.
I got the feeling that Northern Botswana is becoming less interesting to go on safari as Southern Africa is going through a wetter cycle and gameviewing won't be on par with what one experiences in drier years because a lot of areas will be impassable and game will be spread out. I don't say you can't have great experiences but they will be less frequent.
Greetz,
Johan
If you are extremely keen to visit a specific area, it's not really an option to take into consideration.
On the other hand, if you are happy with what you can get (I guess you have plenty of camps to choose from), it will save you money and you know by then which places to go to or not.
A lot of people actually don't dare to travel this way ...
http://moremi.earth-touch.com/ -> it's already raining right now -> actually I told Hari that I expected some early rains this year given the fact that in August clouds were already building up.
I got the feeling that Northern Botswana is becoming less interesting to go on safari as Southern Africa is going through a wetter cycle and gameviewing won't be on par with what one experiences in drier years because a lot of areas will be impassable and game will be spread out. I don't say you can't have great experiences but they will be less frequent.
Greetz,
Johan
Sep 30th, 2009, 03:43 AM
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A wonderful trip report and excellent photos!
Your report - besides the one robin wrote about her selfdrive safari in Kenya/Tanzania- makes me think about a mobile safari as I feel I now would appreciate a safari which offers something else besides rather "predictable" game drives when staying at a camp or lodge.
The link Tockoloshe provided offers awesome insights in to an area/life which usually can be experienced only for a very short time.
Thanks to both of you.
SV
Your report - besides the one robin wrote about her selfdrive safari in Kenya/Tanzania- makes me think about a mobile safari as I feel I now would appreciate a safari which offers something else besides rather "predictable" game drives when staying at a camp or lodge.
The link Tockoloshe provided offers awesome insights in to an area/life which usually can be experienced only for a very short time.
Thanks to both of you.
SV
Sep 30th, 2009, 04:52 AM
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Great report! Thank you! Your experiences are very valuable and should be tagged as a reference for planning Botswana safaris. It is refreshing because so many Botswana posts here and on Tripadvisor are from USA and UK people trying to sell safaris rather than doing safaris.
Sep 30th, 2009, 11:24 AM
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Before posting the last part I added a list of mammals/birds I saw on this trip:
http://www.aardvarktravel.net/chat/v...ic.php?t=42719
Before the safari I made a list of mammals/birds I thought I was going to see and I only missed one mammal and eight birds (out of a list of 100). So I am pretty satisfied.
Johan
http://www.aardvarktravel.net/chat/v...ic.php?t=42719
Before the safari I made a list of mammals/birds I thought I was going to see and I only missed one mammal and eight birds (out of a list of 100). So I am pretty satisfied.
Johan
Oct 2nd, 2009, 02:26 AM
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Thanks Skimmer for your valuable feedback. Atravelynn, Please consider the following, should you decide to just show up -:
1. High season (Jun - Oct) - the camps will be fully booked, which means you would end up takinig whatever is availabe and sometimes these camps does not complement each other.
yes you could get plenty of choices on low season, but with minimal experience.
2. Good thing is that there is a possibility of getting a last minute rate, which is only perfect when you are with a partner NOT travelling alone - A single surcharge would apply, even for a seat on charter. Would advise to come with a friend or someone, so that you avoid those surchages.
I read that some fox have a concern about self driving in Botswana because of lack of control in the parks. Campsites within the national parks and game drives are being privatised and hopefully the awarded individuals would take over end of this year, which means there would be a good controlling system.
1. High season (Jun - Oct) - the camps will be fully booked, which means you would end up takinig whatever is availabe and sometimes these camps does not complement each other.
yes you could get plenty of choices on low season, but with minimal experience.
2. Good thing is that there is a possibility of getting a last minute rate, which is only perfect when you are with a partner NOT travelling alone - A single surcharge would apply, even for a seat on charter. Would advise to come with a friend or someone, so that you avoid those surchages.
I read that some fox have a concern about self driving in Botswana because of lack of control in the parks. Campsites within the national parks and game drives are being privatised and hopefully the awarded individuals would take over end of this year, which means there would be a good controlling system.
Oct 2nd, 2009, 11:56 AM
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Thanks again.
It seems that Botswana is adapting its policy. For people familiar with the safari industry in the delta and its surroundings, there is need for improvement on different levels.
Interesting times ... to say at least.
Best regards,
Johan
It seems that Botswana is adapting its policy. For people familiar with the safari industry in the delta and its surroundings, there is need for improvement on different levels.
Interesting times ... to say at least.
Best regards,
Johan
Oct 2nd, 2009, 01:54 PM
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All good things come to an end.
Final leg of my trip - my stay at Xakanaka
http://www.aardvarktravel.net/chat/v...=162570#162570
Hope you liked reading my report - anyway I surely did enjoy my safari.
Till the next adventure.
Johan
Final leg of my trip - my stay at Xakanaka
http://www.aardvarktravel.net/chat/v...=162570#162570
Hope you liked reading my report - anyway I surely did enjoy my safari.
Till the next adventure.
Johan
Oct 4th, 2009, 12:11 PM
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Johan,
The calling fish eagle is amazing both for your photographic skills and its neck flexibility. Sorry you took ill and hope it did not last long. At least it was near the end of the trip.
Since you had some negative experiences in Xakanaka, what would you suggest others do when considering a mobile? Avoid it, minimize the time there, replace it with another location? That's assuming you think the traffic is typical of your stay.
Despite the downfalls of Xakanaka and the wet conditions that make wildlife viewing tough, you have some tremendous images. If water on the ground was not problem enough, you almost lost out on an owl due to water from the shower. Good thing the owl was patient.
Such good results with less than optimal conditions is a testament to good guiding and to the quality of Africa as a destination.
You mention the "next adventure." Care to give us a clue?
Messiah,
Thanks for the response to my idea of just showing up in Maun. I was trying to use the solo status to my advantage. But it seems according to your comments, even last minute if you are just one, you are at a disadvantage.
"Jun-Oct camps are fully booked"--From my experience not every camp is 100% full 100% of the time. There is almost always room for 1. Maybe not at Mombo, but other places. Being just one seemed to allow me to slip in more easily.
"Camps not complimenting each other"--That is a absolutely possibility so I'd have to go in with no preconceived notions or lists of animals.
"More choices low season"--I've considered that timeframe too and realize that wildlife is not as abundant. If less wildlife is the expectation, then I would not have to see it as a minimal experience. But I do wonder if the already discounted green season rates would go no lower as a last minute booking. I'm wondering if the last minute discount would be more ample in high season because the rates are already jacked up. There also would be more charters flying around in high season, offering more possibilities in high season.
"single surcharge for plane seat"--That's interesting because I did not know I paid more for one seat on a plane than someone in a party of two or more. Unless I chartered the whole plane, I thought my seat would not be more simply because I am only one person. My thinking was there'd likely by ONE seat available on most planes, even if not more, and I'd pay the cost of taking up one seat.
I also thought, perhaps erroneously, that I might avoid some of the single supplement, if I book last minute because the room would sit empty without me.
Good points to consider. As for traveling with a friend if past performance is an indication of future results, I'll probably be going solo most of the time. I have had little success finding friends willing to make the tremendous financial sacrifice it takes for this kind of travel. But you never know.
Thanks for all these points to ponder.
The calling fish eagle is amazing both for your photographic skills and its neck flexibility. Sorry you took ill and hope it did not last long. At least it was near the end of the trip.
Since you had some negative experiences in Xakanaka, what would you suggest others do when considering a mobile? Avoid it, minimize the time there, replace it with another location? That's assuming you think the traffic is typical of your stay.
Despite the downfalls of Xakanaka and the wet conditions that make wildlife viewing tough, you have some tremendous images. If water on the ground was not problem enough, you almost lost out on an owl due to water from the shower. Good thing the owl was patient.
Such good results with less than optimal conditions is a testament to good guiding and to the quality of Africa as a destination.
You mention the "next adventure." Care to give us a clue?
Messiah,
Thanks for the response to my idea of just showing up in Maun. I was trying to use the solo status to my advantage. But it seems according to your comments, even last minute if you are just one, you are at a disadvantage.
"Jun-Oct camps are fully booked"--From my experience not every camp is 100% full 100% of the time. There is almost always room for 1. Maybe not at Mombo, but other places. Being just one seemed to allow me to slip in more easily.
"Camps not complimenting each other"--That is a absolutely possibility so I'd have to go in with no preconceived notions or lists of animals.
"More choices low season"--I've considered that timeframe too and realize that wildlife is not as abundant. If less wildlife is the expectation, then I would not have to see it as a minimal experience. But I do wonder if the already discounted green season rates would go no lower as a last minute booking. I'm wondering if the last minute discount would be more ample in high season because the rates are already jacked up. There also would be more charters flying around in high season, offering more possibilities in high season.
"single surcharge for plane seat"--That's interesting because I did not know I paid more for one seat on a plane than someone in a party of two or more. Unless I chartered the whole plane, I thought my seat would not be more simply because I am only one person. My thinking was there'd likely by ONE seat available on most planes, even if not more, and I'd pay the cost of taking up one seat.
I also thought, perhaps erroneously, that I might avoid some of the single supplement, if I book last minute because the room would sit empty without me.
Good points to consider. As for traveling with a friend if past performance is an indication of future results, I'll probably be going solo most of the time. I have had little success finding friends willing to make the tremendous financial sacrifice it takes for this kind of travel. But you never know.
Thanks for all these points to ponder.
Oct 6th, 2009, 10:31 AM
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The area around Xakanaka/Third bridge will always be busy ... you can still have a good time there if you decide not to respond to cat sightings ... Guides that know Moremi like the back of their hand, always find places to avoid the crowd.
To be honest, in the coming years I would skip Moremi during middle of winter if we experience similar floods/rains like this year because of the reasons I mentioned in my trip report. As I have a very flexible scheme to travel, trips to Northern Botswana will be planned last minute.
http://moremi.earth-touch.com/ Once again, these rains will have a massive impact at most places for safaris in October/November 2009.
There were plenty of photo opportunities on this safari, so I had a very good time.
If other people had joined me on safari during this time of year, I would have probably done the following:
- 5 days Moremi (one night camping near Godikwe lagoon);
- 2 days Savute;
- 3 days Chobe riverfront;
- 3 days Savuti/Lagoon;
- 3 days Chitabe.
I have plenty of things in mind but haven't made a decision what I am going to do next.
Best regards,
Johan
To be honest, in the coming years I would skip Moremi during middle of winter if we experience similar floods/rains like this year because of the reasons I mentioned in my trip report. As I have a very flexible scheme to travel, trips to Northern Botswana will be planned last minute.
http://moremi.earth-touch.com/ Once again, these rains will have a massive impact at most places for safaris in October/November 2009.
There were plenty of photo opportunities on this safari, so I had a very good time.
If other people had joined me on safari during this time of year, I would have probably done the following:
- 5 days Moremi (one night camping near Godikwe lagoon);
- 2 days Savute;
- 3 days Chobe riverfront;
- 3 days Savuti/Lagoon;
- 3 days Chitabe.
I have plenty of things in mind but haven't made a decision what I am going to do next.
Best regards,
Johan
Oct 16th, 2009, 04:02 PM
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Johan
Thanks for your your report and comments (I'm a bit late catching up!) Thoroughly enjoyed it and your photos. The night noises & activity are one of the things I loved about Moremi,though I didn't always appreciate it a the time. I wouldn't like folks who've never been to think that Moremi is bumper to bumper vehicles, ("The area around Xakanaka/Third bridge will always be busy ... you can still have a good time there if you decide not to respond to cat sightings ... Guides that know Moremi like the back of their hand, always find places to avoid the crowd.) ... we never found many vehicles in the area around Xakanaka/Third bridge when we visited in May and August, both supposedly busy times, the area is so vast it's easy to keep away from people, and we have never encountered a 'crowd'. On the other hand, if people don't go because they think it's so busy we might get bookings more easily, especially with the new fees ....
"I am pretty sure when they raise the entrance fees in the national parks, some people lobbied for it. Botswana has to decide for itself what future it sees for its safari industry and we as individuals would maybe not like it but at the end we have to live with the new rules and regulations".
This comment is not directed at you, just wanted to say I'm all for living with rules and regulations but I'm not sure that just because some people can afford to pay more they are more responsible safari-goers/drivers, I can't see that raising campsite and park fees will solve the problems, but as you say it's for Botswana to decide (sorry but just reeling from the confirmed campsite increases)
messiah
"Campsites within the national parks and game drives are being privatised and hopefully the awarded individuals would take over end of this year, which means there would be a good controlling system."
Privatisation maybe good, just announced camping fees of U$50 pppn (+290 pula in park fes)for Savuti not so good!
Thanks for your your report and comments (I'm a bit late catching up!) Thoroughly enjoyed it and your photos. The night noises & activity are one of the things I loved about Moremi,though I didn't always appreciate it a the time. I wouldn't like folks who've never been to think that Moremi is bumper to bumper vehicles, ("The area around Xakanaka/Third bridge will always be busy ... you can still have a good time there if you decide not to respond to cat sightings ... Guides that know Moremi like the back of their hand, always find places to avoid the crowd.) ... we never found many vehicles in the area around Xakanaka/Third bridge when we visited in May and August, both supposedly busy times, the area is so vast it's easy to keep away from people, and we have never encountered a 'crowd'. On the other hand, if people don't go because they think it's so busy we might get bookings more easily, especially with the new fees ....
"I am pretty sure when they raise the entrance fees in the national parks, some people lobbied for it. Botswana has to decide for itself what future it sees for its safari industry and we as individuals would maybe not like it but at the end we have to live with the new rules and regulations".
This comment is not directed at you, just wanted to say I'm all for living with rules and regulations but I'm not sure that just because some people can afford to pay more they are more responsible safari-goers/drivers, I can't see that raising campsite and park fees will solve the problems, but as you say it's for Botswana to decide (sorry but just reeling from the confirmed campsite increases)
messiah
"Campsites within the national parks and game drives are being privatised and hopefully the awarded individuals would take over end of this year, which means there would be a good controlling system."
Privatisation maybe good, just announced camping fees of U$50 pppn (+290 pula in park fes)for Savuti not so good!
Oct 16th, 2009, 10:42 PM
#39
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Tockoloshe,
I am glad you liked my trip report.
Something more about my experiences around Xakanaka:
All the cat sightings I had in between Xakanaka and third bridge, there were plenty of vehicles around ... as everyone is asking each other where the lions, ... are. Funny, with the dogs, we were the only people around.
On this recent trip, it was not unusual to come across more than 25 vehicles on a drive around Xakanaka. In this part of Moremi, one can easily drive up to Xini or Bodumatau ... but some people don't know that and a lot of the lodge vehicles don't drive up there unless they go for an all-day drive. As the current water levels narrowed the roads substantially, it was even more of a problem this year. To give you an example: while watching baboons playing, we had several vehicles asking us if we were watching a leopard because they thought that if a vehicle stands still for such a long time there must be something special ...
The same problem exists in the private areas where the guides also have to show the clients the same animals (otherwise some of them are going to be pissed because they didn't see the lion sleeping ...) (the difference there is that with the limited number of vehicles allowed at a sighting, you can miss it because there are already X cars around). This is especially a problem with areas which have different camps around ...
Prices and campsites:
We all have to see what will be the effect of this measure. I am also not sure if it will solve the problem entirely ... as there are also other urgent matters that have to take into account. Don't ask me to sum them up here ...
Best regards,
Johan
I am glad you liked my trip report.
Something more about my experiences around Xakanaka:
All the cat sightings I had in between Xakanaka and third bridge, there were plenty of vehicles around ... as everyone is asking each other where the lions, ... are. Funny, with the dogs, we were the only people around.
On this recent trip, it was not unusual to come across more than 25 vehicles on a drive around Xakanaka. In this part of Moremi, one can easily drive up to Xini or Bodumatau ... but some people don't know that and a lot of the lodge vehicles don't drive up there unless they go for an all-day drive. As the current water levels narrowed the roads substantially, it was even more of a problem this year. To give you an example: while watching baboons playing, we had several vehicles asking us if we were watching a leopard because they thought that if a vehicle stands still for such a long time there must be something special ...
The same problem exists in the private areas where the guides also have to show the clients the same animals (otherwise some of them are going to be pissed because they didn't see the lion sleeping ...) (the difference there is that with the limited number of vehicles allowed at a sighting, you can miss it because there are already X cars around). This is especially a problem with areas which have different camps around ...
Prices and campsites:
We all have to see what will be the effect of this measure. I am also not sure if it will solve the problem entirely ... as there are also other urgent matters that have to take into account. Don't ask me to sum them up here ...
Best regards,
Johan
