Kenya trip report - last segment, day room at Giraffe Manor
 

Day 12 – Nairobi
Few back to Nairobi on an earlier flight as scheduled, got back to Nairobi around 10:30am (our original flight was at 11am). An ESS driver Patrick met us at Wilson Airport. We went to Utamaduni, a place George recommended for a little shopping before checking into the Giraffe Manor where we have a day room reserved. We bought some coffee and a wood carving of giraffe. The place is very nice, fixed price only, about 20 shops in a nice two story building.

Giraffe Manor is more like a very high end B&B, it feels more like staying in someone’s home than a lodge. Nadine and David who run the lodge are very nice, proper British hosts.

Talked to Serah at ESS to make arrangement for the pick up tonight for the airport. Told her about our experience at Little Governors yesterday. She asked whether the manager there offered to compensate us, I told her no. It had never occurred to us, but I guess we did waste a whole day. She said she is going to talk to the manager to make sure that the radio and tools issue are addressed and being dealt with.

The Manor sent a car to take us to the Java House for lunch, great place, Nikki had a hamburger and was thrilled - 1st hamburger in three weeks! After that we went to tour the Kazuri Bead Factory. The Factory was founded by Lady Susan Wood who passed away last year. All the profit from the factory store went to the 300 single mothers who work there. Went back to the manor to get some rest and repack our luggage for the long flight home. An attendant knocked on our door around 4pm to tell us that giraffes are visiting and asked if we would like to come downstairs. Of course we did. It was wonderful! Nikki was a little grossed out because their tongues were slimy, it was fun to watch her.

I think it was a one time problem, but we couldn’t get hot water to take a shower. The worker worked on it, and said it will be ok after 15 minutes, 30 minutes went by and still no hot water, so we gave up on the idea of taking a last shower before leaving for the airport. It is a very unique place, should experience it at least once, but need to book almost 2 years in advance to get a reservation (day room is not as bad).

A pleasant surprise awaited us, ESS sent George to pick us up at the Manor to take us to the airport. We were so happy to see him and glad to have a chance to chat with him one last time.

This was a incredible trip, way exceeded our expectations. I am sure we will go back there some day. We miss it already.

Pat

We (two couples) are in final stages of arranging trip Aug 2-12, 2008, ending with 2 days Samburu, 4 days Mara. Marvelous (and timely) trip report - all meat, no filler.

Did you find number of vehicles in the Mara to be an issue? How did traffic impact your viewing and traveling about?

Thx for posting, Jim

Jim,

We didn't find the vehicles to be a problem. The most vehicles we saw at one spot was at the crossing (the day our vehicle broke down), around 20. The ranger was there to keep everyone away from the edge so as not to disrupt the wildebeests. When the crossing starts, you can then move forward. That is the most irritating aspect of the viewing, but I guess someone has to control the crowd. Other than that, the rest of the time we saw only 5 vehicles at the most.

Pat

Welcome back! Glad to hear you had an incredible time despite some issues. I can't believe what a lucky granddaughter Nikki is!

Thanks Patty, couldn't have done it without you and others' help. Figured with all the help I got from this board, it is time to pay back a little.

Pat

Regarding your asssessment of ESS: They apparently made a mistake that caused you to cut short your time at the Mara Serena. Was that their only shortcoming? Would you recommend this company to a first time traveler to Kenya and Africa?

Losing the reservations was the only problem we encountered, Serah at ESS sent this e-mail on July 8.
"I am afraid we have 2 changes on your accommodations. We have a problem/misunderstanding with Serena Lodges regarding our peak season bookings and we have had to make a number of changes, and yours is one of the files affected. The changes are:
- to stay at Mount Kenya Safari Club on August 5th instead of Serena Mountain Lodge, and
- to stay 1 night only at Mara Serena Lodge (Aug 8th) and to stay for the rest of the nights (9th - 12th) at Little Governor's Camp.
However, you will note that these are actually upgrades but at our expense, hence your prices remain unchanged.

It is not in our habit to change accommodation once confirmed to clients as it is indeed unprofessional, but the situation is beyond our control. I have personally been fighting it out with Serena as this is a very busy season for us and I would kindly kindly ask for your understanding and please bear with us.

The rest of your safari arrangements remain unchanged."

We were very upset about the changes but as you know that we had a wonderful trip, beyond our wildest imaginations.

I wouldn't hesitate to recommend ESS and wouldn't hesitate to use them again in the future for ourselves.

Things work differently in Africa, Rick and I think that because ESS is a small company that Serena just bumped our reservations in favor of a bigger outfit. Not sure our assumptions are correct, just speculating. Next time I will try to get copies of the lodge reservation vouchers and call the lodges ourselves to confirm.

Because of our experience with the truck in LG, the most important thing with us now is the vehicle safety and ESS equip their cars with a powerful radio that can reach Nairobi from all parks and they have a complete set of tools and some spare parts in the car. Our guide George is just great, we were most pleased with him.

Yes Martha, use ESS, they really took very good care of us.

Pat

Thanks so much for your report! My husband and I will be going on safari in Kenya with ESS in late September, and so far we have been really happy with them and have found Serah to be so helpful and responsive to all our questions. It's nice to hear feedback from someone who has traveled with them so recently.

The problems with your Serena bookings definitely made me worry, since we also (supposedly!) have reservations with several of their lodges. But I think you're probably correct in not blaming Serah and ESS for that. As I posted in another thread, the Tanzania portion of our trip is being handled by Green Footprint Adventures (who have also been great to work with so far), and they recently had to break the news that the Ngorongoro Serena messed up our reservation. We had booked it last October and it was confirmed by GF earlier this year, but then in the past month the lodge bumped our reservation. From the replies I got on my other thread, it seems like this is not uncommon for the Serena lodges. I am planning to head off to Africa with the idea that my itinerary is a general plan, subject to change... which is an attitude that has served us well in past travels, too. ;)

Thanks again for taking the time to tell us about your adventures!

I sent Serena's reservations office in Johannesburg an e-mail asking them the reason for my bump. I will post their reply if I ever hear back from them.

Pat

I contacted the Serena Lodges/hotels directly and only heard back from the Nairobi Hotel with a confirmation. I then emailed the central reservation offcie in Arusha and received an email instructing me to contact my safari operator for confirmation. They were not much help.