Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - Kenya trip report - 1st segment, general information

Trip to Kenya - August 2 to 13, 2007 (immediately following 9-days in Europe)
Travelers – Myself and husband Rick (ages mid and late fifties), and 13-year old granddaughter Nikki

This trip was primarily self-researched and planned using substantial suggestions and help from people on fodors.com, internet postings, and then our selected tour company. Trip was designed as a private safari – just us 3 and the driver. After laying out the basic trip I sent out to 5-6 companies that were recommended by others and got quotes to get apples-to-apples comparison. Responses varied widely in cost. Eventually selected Eastern and Souther Safari (ESS), a smaller company with about 10 mini-vans.

Itinerary/Accommodations:
1 day Nairobi – Norfolk Hotel
2 days Samburu – Intrepid
1 day Mt. Kenya – Mountain Serena – changed to Mt. Kenya Safari Club at the last minute by ESS
2 days Lake Nakuru – Sarova Lion Hill Lodge
5 days Masai Mara – Originally 3 nights Mara Serena and 2 nights Little Governor’s (LG) but changed at last minute to 1 night Mara Serena and 4 nights Little Governors by ESS

Primary Tour Guide – George from ESS is excellent, we were very pleased with him. He is very knowledgeable about animals, birds, plants, and Kenya in general and communicates well in English. With ESS more than 10 years. He also has an amazing ability to spot wildlife from great distances – completely baffles us how he does it. Also knew all the roads like the back of his hand. George took very good care of us and always had our safety and best interest in mind. Highly recommended. Hard to imagine anyone better. *Tip - It is very advantageous to have the same guide for the entire trip, as he knows exactly what we have seen and what we are still looking for.

General Observations And Tips:

Camera – First, we are not photographers/camera wiz people. After much research we bought a Sony H5 camera with a DH1758 zoom lens. We needed something that would operate in automatic point-and-shoot mode but still have the flexibility to accommodate manual settings for special situations. Also wanted something that would have high enough resolution so we could blow up the pictures to large format when we got back. Also has a big LCD screen and an option of add-on zoom and wide angle lens – the zoom is highly recommended. Battery format and life is also critical. The Sony uses standard AA rechargeable lithium.
*Tip - the only change if doing it again would be to buy an external battery charger that could handle raw 220v instead of only 110v and eliminate the need to lug a converter around.

Vehicle – we preferred the mini van to the Land Cruiser. The ride is smoother, the windows on the sides can be opened/closed easily, the pop-up top serves as great sun shade, the height accommodates shorter people (I am 5’4”) comfortably unlike Land Cruiser.
*Tip – check out the radio capability of the vehicle – ESS vehicles are equipped with excellent long-range capable radios (can reach from the game reserves to Nairobi) and a tool kit enabling you to get help quickly if you need it. This can save your trip from significant lost time, help ensure your safety, and enable you to find and get to the best animal locations.

Guides – If possible, have a private guide. George was with us for 6 days until we got to Little Governor’s. He knew what we’ve seen and what we still wanted to see, and he worked on our wishes constantly. We missed him terribly the first couple of days after he left us on our arrival in LG. Joash, our guide from LG is very, very good with excellent animal spotting skills, but was handicapped by having no radio in the truck other than a short-range walkie-talkie. This means you have to rely solely on the guide’s eyes and skill – we met other people who were not as fortunate as us with Joash and hated their guides.

Local Words – “Hotel” in Kenya this means a place for coffee and tea – one stays overnight in lodges. We saw many signs along the roads for hotel on places that were so small and of dubious character and appearance - couldn’t figure out where the rooms were. Finally asked George to explain.

Driving Conditions and Time – the roads in Kenya are for the most part pretty rough - it takes a lot longer to get from place to place then we thought it would. The normal speed limit is 80km/hr but not really relevant - lucky to do 40 as an average. At the game park the limit is 40km – 20 is would be doing pretty well. Before I left, I thought it will take only 2 to 3 hours to go 200km, I was so wrong, it took double the time.

Bandannas – The #1 item wanted by the locals was my bandanna. Very useful to tie behind your neck and cover your nose to keep the dust (sometimes odors) out – also useful as handkerchief or scarf to keep warm. I had many shopkeepers and street venders asking me for my bandanna, said would give me a good trade. George said they like bandannas because of the dust, especially red ones. Had we known that bandannas are so much in demand, we would have purchased some to give away as gifts. You can buy them on the internet for about $5 each. Mine have two different colors on each side, their favorite was the one with red on one side and dark blue on the other side.

Travel mugs – someone posted on fodors.com that she likes to take her coffee on the game drives, so we brought along 3 plastic travel mugs. They are great. Bring the ones with screw-on caps and an inverted L shape handle (not the round closed up handles) so you can hang them on the rim of the pop-up top the of the mini van. Doesn’t work as well in the open top Land Cruiser but seat-back pockets work well too.

Puff Tissues – I keep a small Puff tissues travel pack in my pants pocket at all time. They are better than the Kleenex packages, because they are flat and more comfortable to carry. After the first bush toilet, I started carrying a small ziplock in my pocket along with the tissues, because I have no way of disposing the used tissues and no graceful way to hold it in your finger tip going back into the car.

Zip-Lock Bags – These are indispensable for hundreds of uses – take a bunch. Double pack any liquids you pack in these. We really like the 1 gallon and quart thicker freezer bags available in bulk from Costco. The new zipper ones are useless – break easily.

Best Lodging – we liked Mt. Kenyon Safari Club (even though under renovation), Mara Serena, Intrepid Samburu, Little Governors, and Saravo Lion Hill in that order.

Clothing color – red is out, saw the ranger send a car load of Masai people away because they were all wearing red. The locals wear red because they don’t want the lions, etc. near them. George said the animals will not come close when there is red present. Other colors are ok, even black.

Money – you can use KS, US dollar, and Euro equally in Kenya, no need to go to the ATM. Bring lots of small bills ($1 especially, $5, $10, $20). Exchange rate differs from lodges to lodges.