Just got back from Kenya
 

Hi all, just wanted to give a quick report on my trip to Kenya given the questions that have been raised on this forum. My husband and I spent two weeks there and just got back on Friday.

The bottom line is: if you are at all on the fence about going because of security concerns...GO!! Please! You will have an experience of a lifetime!

We were never concerned for our safety and saw absolutely nothing out of the ordinary. We spent 4 entire days in Nairobi sightseeing and driving all over town (mainly with a friend who lives there and also on a day tour with the infamous Kennedy), and not once did we feel unsafe. (Well, at least from anything related to civil unrest! There are some crazy drivers there though!)

Because of so many cancellations, we had an almost completely private safari. We stayed at Larsen's Camp in Samburu and there was one other family of 5 there. We stayed at Olonana in Maasai Mara and were the ONLY guests for the entire time (4 days). And then we stayed at the Kiwayu Safari Village in Kiwayu and there was one other family there (again, 4 days). We had every single game drive by ourselves with what appeared to be the best guides around. The privacy was almost overwhelming, because it was so sad to see these places having such a drought in business, but the staff were all fantastic and were focused on making sure we had a magical experience...which we did.

Also, because of the lack of tourists, the animals were much braver and we were able to see some amazing things. Like a baby black rhino nursing!

Those were the positive aspects of the trip. But it was very depressing to see the entire economy affected by the drop in tourism, especially since there is no practical reason for tourists to avoid Kenya right now. The violence is truly isolated in cities where tourists would not visit, or in slums in Nairobi where tourists would never go, and the only tourist areas affected are Naivasha and Nakuru, which are easily avoided. I would emphasize that we flew from park to park, so we don't know what the roads were like or how those were impacted. The impact of the drop in tourism goes far beyond the workers at camps inside the parks -- for example, the tribes are also affected, since they rely so heavily on tourist purchases. And Kennedy broke our heart with stories of cancellations impacting his business.

That's my two cents from our trip. We are so glad we did not cancel - not only because we were able to contribute to the economy, but because we had the safari of a lifetime.

Great news in many respects. Thanks.

Thanks for your report. What a great decision not to cancel!

<i>I would emphasize that we flew from park to park, so we don't know what the roads were like or how those were impacted.</i>

Yes this part deserves emphasis. But I would go to Kenya tomorrow if I could.

Thank you for a very interesting report, but is it responsible for you to conclude, based on a single visit in which you flew from park to park, that &quot;there is no practical reason for tourists to avoid Kenya right now.&quot;

I note these comments from the February 8 US Dept of State travel advisory on Kenya (the most recent advisory they have posted). Are all of these comments impractical:

-- continuing terrorist threats, increasing incidents of violent crime, and hostile civil unrest following the disputed December election results

-- the potential for spontaneous violence remains

-- the possibility of sudden outbreaks of hostile clashes between police and demonstrators, as well as between rival groups of demonstrators

-- American citizens are urged to defer all travel to Rift Valley, Western, and Nyanza Provinces. Road travel in these western provinces of Kenya remains unsafe.
Sporadic illegal road blocks by gangs or criminal elements may make travel possible only with police or military escorted convoys. American citizens should also avoid all demonstrations, protests and large public gatherings since even demonstrations intended to be peaceful can become violent.

I am glad your trip was without incident, but I'm not sure sound advice can be based on a single trip.

No tourist has been harmed in any way.

Here are updates from the Kenya Tourism Federation that are a bit closer to reality:
http://www.katokenya.org/breaknews.asp?ID=1

Nyamera, you keep writing that, and I'm sure its true. But, it would be foolish to think that Kenya is less risky than other safari destinations. While I hope that visitors continue to remain safe, to me, at least, Kenya is a more dangerous destination than, say, Botswana or Tanzania. I am aware that tragedies happen everywhere, but to me, at least, Kenya is too risky.

And if my decision to go elsewhere deprives Kennedy or someone else of money, well, that's sad, but too bad. When a country develops an economy that is so dependent on tourist dollars and fails otherwise to substantially diversify, they better make more of an effort not to hack one another to death and set each other on fire (I know that only a very small percentage of people are the hackers and arsonists, but I don't think that small percentage is going to distinguish between a perceived enenmy and a tourist if the tourist happens to be in the wrong place at the wrong time).

I have certainly visited my share of countries that have isolated dangerous areas, but to me at least, based on what I've read, the risk in Kenya it too widespread, and I would never advise someone that there is no practical reason to visit based on a single trip. Lots of people safely visit Iraq and Afghanistan, but those two countries, for the time being, remain near the bottom of my list (as much as I'd like to visit both).

I fear that there will come a time when you will no longer be able to write that no tourists have been harmed or killed due to tribal violence in Kenya, and I'm sure not going to allow it to be me.

Michael

And while some may not give credence to the Department of State's advisories, the Kenya Tourist Board is hardly the most unbiased commentator. I know what I read in the press, and I also know that there are hundreds of safer destinations, including lots of safari destinations in Africa.

Michael, unfortunately the hackers and arsonists distinguish very well when deciding who to kill. The risk of road accidents is far, far bigger to a tourist. Backfromkenya isn’t the only Fodorite who has visited Kenya recently and even though I really can’t afford it, I’m definitely going there in June.

Of course the Kenya Tourist Board isn’t unbiased, but what lies can you find in their updates? Or, what important information for tourists can’t you find?

I wish you well.

In May/June, I'll be in French Polynesia and Easter Island (even though I really can't afford it too -- with the recent plummeting of the US stock market and, notwithstanding today's blip, I foresee more declines). While Africa is my favorite continent to visit, there are lots of other places to go, especially while there's turmoil and risk in some African countries.

Thanks.

I’m going in June/July. You’re going to some interesting places. I’ll not waste my money on any other countries until I’ve found a way to live in Kenya and then I’ll start by going to other countries in Africa, but this will probably be in my next life.

You've got lots of life left this time around Nyamera. Good luck.

Nyamera,

Everytime I go to Kenya I see THOUSANDS of expatriates who work in Kenya (coffee business, tour business, charities, web design, international schools, etc)

I think it must be VERY easy to find a job in Kenya as so many people seem to do so.

I'm sure you'll find a job in less than a week... it really can't be that difficult!!

Thanks for reporting, backfromkenya. Glad you were able to go.

I've literally just got back from a week in the Mara and had a very similar experience to backfromkenya. I have been to Kenya a number of times and genuinely did not notice any difference except a very empty game park - trip report to follow.

Phil

Philw; were there any other guests in the camps in the Mara? DO you mind telling us at which camps you stayed?

&lt;&lt;Everytime I go to Kenya I see THOUSANDS of expatriates who work in Kenya (coffee business, tour business, charities, web design, international schools, etc)&gt;&gt;

That, to me, seems a bit sad. Doesn't Kenya have a high unemployment rate, and don't they have locals who can fill many of these jobs, especially in tourism? The standard of living will not improve if they import employees to fill the most attractive positions.

Simbakubwa,
I don’t see as many expats as you do, but I do know there’re many. Have any of them told you how they got their jobs? I suppose some are rich and have invested in Kenya. Those working with charities must have had important positions in their home countries and then been sent to Kenya and the rest are volunteers that don’t get paid. I suppose I could do some short term volunteering, but I would soon run out of money. What kind of training (how many years starting from scratch) do you have to do to get a web design job? I met some French people in the Mara who were visiting their friend – a very skilled computer something – who had worked in Kenya for a year. His contract was ending and he was desperate to stay, but couldn’t find a new job. The Swedish school in Nairobi requires you to be a qualified teacher with at least 5 years experience. That would take me 9 years (I’m not young) and then I wouldn’t be sure a job would turn up.

The official unemployment rate in Kenya was some 40 % and now it’s probably higher. Highly educated Kenyans are selling fruit by the side of the road and it’s against the law to give a work permit to a foreigner for a job that a Kenyan could do. The stories I’ve found (not directly from the person involved) are a teacher who came as a tourist and was hired as some kind of public relations manager. She must have had a very charismatic personality (I don’t). I have no idea how a work permit was obtained. Then a young Swedish woman who was studying to become a designer did her thesis at a camp and got a job working with Maasai women doing beadwork. There must be Kenyan designers … Another young girl got a job at a luxury camp. I’ve read her online diary. First she worked as a seasonal guide for a package tour company. There aren’t that many Kenyans that speak Swedish and I’ve applied for that job (unsuccessfully). Then she was offered a long-term job at a camp. Though looking at her pictures, I think she’s romantically involved with a Kenyan at the camp. I’m working on becoming underweight, blond and young … When I ask Kenyans I’m either told “it’s very easy for you to get a job in Kenya” without any clues how to go about it, or they laugh at me telling me I can live in Kenya when I retire (as if I’ll ever be able to afford that).

I’ve been to Kenya four times and have wanted to stay every time. If there’s a way to find a job in less than a week that I’ve just overlooked, please tell me!

Ha! Just go to a mall called the village market on a sunday afternoon and you will see thousands of expatriates! And I don't think they are volunteers as they always have lots of money to spend.

Many are employed in business (why don't you start a business and hire some of the unemployed people)... or why don't you contact a safari camp or beach cottage and ask if they need a camp manager (they always are looking for people who are honest).

However, if you don't have any transferrable skills... or don't have any money to invest... then I guess there probably isn't much incentive for Kenya to give you a work permit.

Either way... every day hundreds of Kenyans migrate to the West... and an equal number of westerners migrate to Kenya.

Interesting perspectives. My wife works for a large international aid organization and they were just given an update by their in country staff on the situation in Kenya. They're saying that the situation there is actually much worse than we're hearing outside the country and that in some areas it's getting close to &quot;racial cleansing&quot;.

Of course that's very different from what you saw and I'm not surprised, nor do I doubt what you're saying. Right now the tourists are not being targeted, and especially if you're flying from park to park and avoiding the roads and residential and poorer areas you're probably going to be pretty safe. But what if things go from bad to worse as they could at any time with what is brewing? What anyone who goes there needs to decide is if it's worth the risk (and they are substantial, don't kid yourself) to yourself and your family. For the American on this forum I think I can safely say that while the local embassy will try and help if things do get bad, they will probably feel that you were warned and you will be pretty low on their list of priorities.

Bob