Jan's Kenya Trip Report 1/22 - 2-11-05

Feb 14th, 2005, 07:37 PM
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Jan's Kenya Trip Report 1/22 - 2-11-05

Dear Fellow Fodorites:

Just got back Friday night from another great trip to Kenya.

Left Boston January 22nd. Worried all day whether or not I would be able to get out of Logan airport. Heavy snow was expected starting around 3 p.m. and my flight didn’t leave until 6:15 p.m. Got to the airport early and found that all the British Airway flights had already been cancelled. Not a good sign. While waiting the snow started just as the weatherman predicted, and the more worried I got. We finally boarded Northwest Airlines but by this time quite a bit of snow had already adhered to the plane. Watched them de-icing and we were finally able to take off. About 10 minutes into the flight the pilot announced that Logan had just closed! How lucky we were to have gotten off when we did.

Arrived Amsterdam on time and had the usual three hour layover. Then boarded KLM. Arrived Nairobi on time. As is my usual habit, I rushed to the visa desk (and this time so did about 100 other people) and they only had two people working the desk! Finally got through that, went to Thomas Cooke across the street and changed some American dollars for Kenya shillings and then I was on my way. Stayed at the Holiday Inn that night.

Got up early the next morning to catch the 7:30 plane to Amboseli. While waiting in the waiting area a gentleman approached me and asked if I was Jan. I stated yes (not knowing who this gentleman was) and he introduced himself as the architect and owner of Ol Tukai Lodge. He was on his way down for a meeting so I had a pleasant chat with him. Arrived and got settled in my favorite room, put clothes away and then headed out for the first game drive. Saw lots of elephants, zebra, wildebeests, buffalo and wart hogs. That night there were lots of eles. right outside my room.

The next morning I was fortunate enough to visit my elephant researcher friends and went out with one of them. They are the only ones allowed to drive off road. We were lucky enough to find Echo and her family and spent about 45 minutes to an hour with them. Echo is the 60 year old matriarch of an Amboseli family and she had just given birth to a calf two weeks earlier. We sat and watched Echo, her new calf, her new granddaughter and the rest of the family.

I was informed that there had been no new Maasai spearings since I left in August. When I got home in August I wrote KWS a stinging letter asking why they didn’t jail people who do this and threatening to show the pictures of the speared elephant (with two spears in the head) to National Geographic, Time, Newsweek, etc. I was told at that time that jailing these people “wasn’t possible”. However, I was told in January that indeed two men were jailed for four months. They just got out of jail and have been telling everyone around not to spear – “you don’t want to go through what we have just been through in jail”. Let us all hope that perhaps this example will be meaningful to some of the young moran.

That night as I approached my room after the afternoon game drive (almost dark) there was a huge bull elephant just across the electric fence from my room. The next time I looked there were 10 people standing on the other side of the electric fence snapping photos (with flashes) and shining their torches on him. It was a disaster waiting to happen – they were only about 10 feet apart. I politely asked them to move back as it was dangerous and was just told “nein, nein, OK”. I finally went to the dining room and asked the manager to have security move the people away. If one of them had been injured or killed the unfortunate elephant would have been shot – even though it wasn’t his fault.

Thus I will preach again (not for you regulars because I know you all know the dangers). Please, please stay on the paths, sidewalks and under no circumstance approach wildlife on foot. I would feel badly enough if a human were injured or killed; I would feel even worse if an animal had to be shot because of human stupidity. We are not in a zoo-like habitat. Despite the fact that these animals may seem “tame” because they put up with us gawking at them from our vehicles, they are wild and anything stupid we do may provoke them. It isn’t fair to wildlife to be provoked and harassed so please be careful.

As you may know, this is my seventh trip. Even though I have known that the weather affects what wildlife you will see, I was truly astounded on this trip. Tuesday night/early Wednesday morning it poured in Amboseli. On the morning game drive on Wednesday it seemed as though some supersonic vacuum just sucked all the animals up. I never would have believed it could happen this quickly. It didn’t bother me, but I can only imagine how someone on their first trip must feel seeing so few animals.

Liz, while watching the few remaining wildebeests we saw two females giving birth!
I named one for you. Just hope it wasn’t a boy!

And Susan, one of the cheetahs at Satao now has your name!

About 5:15 one morning I was awakend with what I initially thought was someone blowing a trumpet just outside my room. When the brain woke up enough I realized that it was an elephant. I knew it was in some kind of trouble. Trumpeted strongly every 15 – 20 seconds for a full 9 minutes and then got weaker and finally stopped.
I got dressed and went to wake my elephant researcher friend. She went out but couldn’t find a body or an injured animal. She surmised that perhaps one of the elephant calves had been stuck in the mud of the swamp. Apparently when this happens the mother will trumpet in excitement until she gets the baby out.

Saw more lions and cheetahs this time at Amboseli. By the end of that week some of the herd animals had started coming back into the swamp area so the carnivores would be happy.

Having spent a week in Amboseli and riding all around the park many times I will again reiterate that though both the Serena and Tortillis Camp are fine places, they are in very unattractive areas and they all come into the main area near the swamps on every game drive. Same with the Sopa Lodge (they have a 45 minute drive just to get to the swamp areas). Unless you require gold faucets and toilet seats, I would highly suggest staying at Ol Tukai. It is the newest lodge in the Park and is constantly being improved upon. The views of Kilimanjaro and the swamps are superb.

On my last night at Amboseli it again rained very hard for several hours. Thus there is plenty of water everywhere for the animals. The Kenyans were all remarking about the unusual weather in late January/early February.

On Monday 1-31-05 I flew from the airstrip at Ambo to Wilson. Got off one plane and boarded another for Samburu. Again stayed at Elephant Watch Camp which is super. However, Samburu had also gotten rain so there weren’t nearly as many animals as in August. My first day there we didn’t even see one elephant! Second day we did find one of the families. On the way back to camp the guide spotted something on the ground and asked the driver to back up. We saw a Marshall eagle flat on the ground with a snake coiling around its middle. We watched for quite awhile trying to decided who got who. The guide could see the eagle’s eyes moving but we also saw the small snake coiling. Didn’t know whether it was poisonous and had bitten the bird or what. We decided to go back later in the day. When we did it was unfortunate that a vehicle had driven over where the bird and snake had been so we could only surmise that the bird eventually killed the snake and ate it and then flew off.

One morning saw vultures soaring. We waited until they landed and then drove to the area. A giraffe had been killed and all sorts of vultures and storks were feeding. Later in the day we returned and two lionesses and five cubs were feasting. We thought the lions had killed the giraffe, but the camp owner told us to look carefully at the giraffe’s legs, and sure enough they had been cleanly cut off. Thus one wonders if a human also killed the animal and left the remains.

On 2-3-05 flew from airstrip to Wilson and then transferred to JKIA where I flew to Mombasa and stayed at the Tamarind Village. Had another lovely condo there for the night.

The next morning we drove to Tsavo East for a five day stay at Satao. NO SNAKES THIS TIME FOLKS!!!! I did carry my trusty whistle with me at all times to summons help if one became apparent, but I never needed to use the whistle. Tsavo had also gotten rain so everything was lush and green.

I met with a friend of mine Simon Trevor, who is a wildlife photographer. He has worked on the films “Out of Africa”, “The Color Purple”, “Gorillas in the Mist”, “White Hunter”, “Black Heart” and “Congo”. He has his own non-profit organization www.AEFFonline.org. He produces wonderful wildlife films that he donates to all the schools in Kenya to give the children an understanding of problems facing wildlife in their country. He has given me several DVDs of his movie “Wanted: Dead or Alive” which is a marvelous film depicting problems with poaching, bushmeat trade, cutting trees for charcoal, etc. Has also given me permission to have them shown on our local access television and if our schools are interested to show them there also. Though the problems depicted are African, it might start our young people thinking about problems in their own country with wildlife.

Only saw ONE elephant at the borehole this time folks. Did see some on game drives but again it seemed like everyone had disappeared off the face of the earth. I did get to see my intermediate-aged elephant orphans at Tsavo and they are all doing well now. Five of the babies were bitten by a rabid dog in Ithumba several months ago and they and their keepers had to undergo rabies treatment. They are all fine now though.

On the way back to camp from Voi we stopped at Aruba Dam. When the Dam is dry the hippos walk about 20 miles to the borehole at Satao. However, they were now back in Aruba Dam so I wanted to see them. Then spotted a male lion arriving with three lionesses and two fairly well grown cubs heading to get water at the dam. Luckily I had my video camera going because those feisty hippos decided they didn’t want the lions there. The Mama hippo and the baby starting swimming directly for the lions. The lions immediately ran up the bank. The hippos didn’t even want them there and ran up the hill and the Mama chased the male lion and two lionesses one way while the baby chased one lioness and the two cubs the other. What a scene!

All in all, the trip was a little anticlimactic after the August trip. However, it was also more relaxing and great to spend time with friends there. The last afternoon in Nairobi after I had seen my very young elephant orphans, I was seriously considering calling my boss and quitting my job and staying there for another two months. Then my brain kicked into action and I realized that without working I wouldn’t be able to pay the bills so I got back on the plane and headed home. Am already dreaming of returning the end of the summer.

JanGoss is offline  
Feb 14th, 2005, 08:13 PM
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Thank you Jan. I feel so great. A newborn wildie. I hope it doesn't get killed before you go back. Great report. You may not have seen an overly generous amount of wildlife, but what you saw was great. I would have loved to see the hippos chasing the lions. What a riot. I hope you have pictures in addition to the film. I can't imagine the reason for that poor giraffe. Gosh it made me mad.
So glad you got home safely. I fully understand about the overpowering urge to just hang it up and stay there. I tried that every which way, but that permit is a problem. I didn't think two months would do it for me. More like 5 years. Not now though, but it took quite a while to get over it. I still think you just may do it one time.
Thanks again, its bedtime here in the West and I really want to say thanks for the wildie. Rest up. Liz
Liz_Frazier is offline  
Feb 15th, 2005, 05:54 AM
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What a lovely report. Thank you for sharing it.
lisa is offline  
Feb 15th, 2005, 06:10 AM
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Jan - Welcome Home. I was so waiting for your report. Sorry this visit didn't provide sufficient animal encounters, but then rain isn't normally expected end January. Like animals, weathers isn't a given - Mother Nature does as she wishes. And even animals are smart enough to get out of the wet, though one wonders where they go. Though, what I do enjoy is not knowing what I will or won't see around the next bend, only adds to the excitement and disappointment... so one plans another trip.

Isn't Echo amazing? Another little one for her and that big family surrounding her. We saw her on our very first trip to Kenya and were thrilled to spend hours watching and following her family. Even flew back to NBO with Cyntia Moss - our first trip - that was a bonus!

The hippo/lion story is a hoot! Those hippos certainly protect their young and their territory. Can just picture the lion scurrying away. But what still amazes me is how stupid tourists are when it comes to animals - flash cameras in elephant faces. One wishes no harm to humans, but aren't we supposed to be the smart ones? Not, from the group you encountered.

Glad to hear this trip was "snake free" - couldn't imagine what tales you'd be telling if you did have encounters again. But no tales to tell. Drat! Lol!

This was your second time at Elephant Watch - please tell your feedback of the accommodatons, food and overall service - game drives, guides and the Douglases. Admittedly, I've seen pictures - rather eclectic in design; your impression?

Like you and Liz and SusanLynne, on each trip, I'm tempted to just chuck it all back home and stay on, but........ well, maybe one day

Looking forward to viewing the photos. Glad to have you home.
Feb 15th, 2005, 08:53 AM
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Welcome home and thank you for the fascinating report. For those of us who are thinking safari is going to have to be an every-other-year event reading these accounts is almost as good as being there.

Can't wait to see pictures...
Leely is offline  
Feb 15th, 2005, 09:02 AM
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Thank you for your insightful comments.
atravelynn is offline  
Mar 7th, 2005, 12:49 PM
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It sounds like you had a great trip! I am 14 and going on my first trip to Kenya June 10. I will be spending four days in Amboseli. I am excited about getting to meet Soila, who I have been talking with over email for about a year and a half. I have been following the Amboseli project for about five years, especially the EB family. You might have seen the report I wrote on them on the Elephant Trust website. Is Echo as beautiful as she is in the pictures? I bet the two new calves are adorable.
MSowers is offline  
Mar 7th, 2005, 04:52 PM
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Eleboy (MSowers)

You will absolutely love meeting Echo and her family. It is so much more fantastic than reading about her or seeing her on film. She is an amazing matriarch with a wonderful family. It is much due to Echo that people have learned as much about elephants as they have. Elephants are so loving, caring, intelligent and trusting.

It still amazes me that when watching eles. up close, they seem to understand who means no harm and who to steer clear of. I am told that the Amboseli elephants distrust the Maasai, (rightly so because the Maasai have speared them on many occasions) and if a vehicle full of Maasai drives by they will run off and try to hide or find protection.

I know you will truly enjoy meeting Soila. She is an amazing woman. She is Maasai. When she was young her father decided that the girls in the family would not be educated - only the boys (common tradition at that time). Soila's mother told her father in no uncertain terms that her daughters would be educated and he could leave. Most of Soila's sisters are all now working in conservation to help better the lives of animals in Kenya. They too, like Echo, have an amazing family.

Be sure to take a video camera with you, and then you will be able to enjoy your time with Echo for years to come.


JanGoss is offline  
Mar 7th, 2005, 05:48 PM
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Just posted a few pictures to Ofoto if anyone is interested. I didn't take many this time because there weren't too many animals and I preferred to use my video camera.

Copy and paste into your address bar:


and you should be able to view.



JanGoss is offline  
Mar 7th, 2005, 06:29 PM
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In your experience, have the EBs always been easy to find? My biggest fear is going and having to leave without seeing them. I'm also excited about seeing Elana, the calf I named. Did you happen to see her when you were there?
MSowers is offline  
Mar 8th, 2005, 01:13 AM
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Jan- Woke up early, afraid I'd oversleep. haha Just getting ready to leave and couldn't pass up seeing your album. I'll have to say, its one of the best. Of course I love Amboseli. I was only there once, in 1987, but it looks exactly the same today. Beautiful. I can surely see why you go back and back.
Hope my comments on your album don't ruin it. Please feel free to remove them if you want. Thank you for posting it just now. Especially loved the Wildebeests. Naturally. Elephant Watch camp is a real winner! I could move there. Liz
Liz_Frazier is offline  
Mar 8th, 2005, 02:46 AM
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Lovely photos - and your love for ele's definately shows through. I also love the shots of Kili and realise we have missed out through not visiting Amboseli or Tsavo.

I just finished reading Rick Ridgeway's book "Shadow of kilimanjaro: On foot across East Africa" and it made me think of you, as so much of it is about the reecnt history of conservation in Tsavo.

Thanks for sharing (and now I need to get back to work!)
RuthieC is offline  
Mar 8th, 2005, 08:48 AM
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Great photos--that giraffe in the foreground of Mt. Kilimanjaro is so beautiful. I can't decide whether I love giraffes or elephants more.

Thank you for sharing.
Leely is offline  
Mar 8th, 2005, 02:18 PM
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Hi Jan!

Welcome back, and thanks for sharing your wonderful trip with us - I so enjoyed reading it!

As others on this board may attest, though, you put me to shame! I've been home from Tanzania for over a month and have only managed to post half of my trip report For those who are waiting, however, I plan on continuing it in the next few days, so thanks for being patient!

Like you, I long to be back in East Africa, and look forward to continuing my trip report, as it will allow me to travel back there, if only my mind...!
alwaysafrica is offline  
Mar 9th, 2005, 04:35 AM
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Not sure how I missed this report earlier as have been waiting for it but it's been a hectic few weeks so it slipped past my radar!

Sounds like a marvellous trip! No animals named for me this time? How disappointing!

I have enjoyed learning about Echo in documentaries - how marvellous it would be to actually see her and her family in person!

Kavey is offline  
Mar 9th, 2005, 05:18 PM
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Jan - I'm considering a safari trip to Kenya in Sept 05. Your story encourages me; however, I am wary due to the State Dept's Travel warnings for the country and the tales I've read about Nairobi. As a frequent visitor to the area, I was hoping you could put some of this in perspective for me and give me a sense of the "true" safety climate of taking this dream trip. Brefly, I would be traveling in a group of 14 with Good Earth Tours/Nature Expeditions. Planning to visit Sweetwaters, Samburu, Lake Nakuru, and Maasai Mara Parks. Thanking you in advance for your time.
Lalah is offline  
Mar 9th, 2005, 05:40 PM
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Hey Jan-
I just finished reading that article about the Maasai and Kenya you just posted and was going to respond and not suprisingly...it disappeared from the radar! You know what they say about cutting and pasting!!

Anyway, it was quite an interesting article. Thanks for sharing.

On my very recent trip to the Mara, our guide, who I've had before and know well, told us how Half Tail, the leopard filmed on BBC's Big Cat Diary met an unfortunate fate at the hands of the Maasai. I won't go into details here but shame on them!

BTW...great trip report...and great photos. I love that elephant watch camp.

I hope this post isn't deleted!
divewop is offline  
Mar 10th, 2005, 03:14 PM
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Please go ahead with your plans and don't pay much attention to the State Department's advisories. Many of us on Fodors have been to Kenya many times since the advisories were posted and have had no problems.

Admittedly I would not walk around Nairobi or Mombasa alone or at night. However since you are going to be with a large group I don't think anyone will bother you.

Most people spend one night in Nairobi before their safari and one night at the end. Once you are out of the city and in the parks you feel perfectly safe, and the tour companies make sure you are well looked after. I travel alone, not with a group, and have never been worried about my safety.

You will have a marvelous time and become addicted to Kenya as many of us have.

JanGoss is offline  
Mar 10th, 2005, 03:20 PM
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An interesting article wasn't it?

Admittedly I forgot that one wasn't allowed to paste anything on Fodors. Sorry folks.

For those that didn't see it, the East African Standard had an article on 3-9-05 stating the Maasai were preventing tourists staying in lodges outside the Mara from getting into the Mara. They were trying to collect more money. I was hopeful that the government would put a stop to that right away because if it continues it could hurt Kenya, who is just now recovering from the tourist slump after 9/11.

Nothing further about it in the Kenyan papers tonight.

Thanks again for the reminder Divewop.

JanGoss is offline  
Mar 10th, 2005, 03:43 PM
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Great report, I have begun thinking about East Africa in addition to southern and your report hasn't helped!
napamatt is offline  

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