bobbieharv

I've been researching this board for places to stay in Cape Town, and Camps Bay sounds so wonderful - particularly the Fulham Lodge someone mentioned. My travel agent, who is working with Wilderness Safaris for the rest of the trip, had preliminarily put us in the Victoria and Albert (but we hate big hotels), and says she's not sure it's safe for us to be driving to get to all the places we want to see.
We're very independent travelers, and have previously booked our own vacations and driven everywhere (Australia, NZ, Europe, etc.), but Africa is different and I thought I'd better check.

climbhighsleeplow

I grew up on the Garden Route, lived in Cape Town for many years, still own property in Stellenbosch and communicate weekly with my brother and his family who lives in the Southern Suburbs. I live in the US now but visits Cape Town at least a few times a year and drive everywhere using rentals.

All my family have been victimized in recent years - luckily no physical harm just robberies and petty crimes but very scary nevertheless despite spending thousands of rands every month on security and alarms! They've been harrassed in parking lots, on the beaches, in their homes and even in a restaurant when the whole place was robbed by a gang in the early evening!

To say it is perfectly safe is simply irresponsible! But my family is happy and positive in Cape Town and the rest of South Africa - although my sister in Johannesburg is reaching her boiling point after another recent attempted robbery at her fortified house.

Still, life goes on and driving is one of the greastest pleasures in South Africa with its great roads and beautiful scenery.

But:

My driving rule in present-day South Africa is simple - be prepared, be aware, be careful and be smart.

There are many sources for tips on how to drive safely in Cape Town including guide books and even this forum.

Most importantly, stick to the main roads, avoid driving after dark, make sure you have a spare tire and you know how to change it quickly, have your cell phone ready and talk to trustworthy sources at your hotel and tell them where you are going and when you expect to be back. And ask them about any recent crime reports for the routes you plan to travel.

I am not aware of any organised efforts to harm tourists so you are not at special risk. It is just a matter of being more careful than any of the countries you've driven before.

So like thousands of other visisors including myself, go ahead and plan your self-drive vacation! It is the best way to experience the beautiful Cape.

betsyatl

I rented a car and drove in Cape Town for a week this spring. It is really no different than driving in any other mid sized city. You need to have clear directions, good maps, and talk to someone who knows the local area (conceigeres, front desk clerk, ect...).
I am not a group tour kind of person, and had a great time driving around. Saw much more than I could have seen any other way (except maybe a private driver).
We were never hassled at a traffic light (or robot as they call them), we did see homeless/beggers/kids but if they approached the car we just shook our heads no and looked away. I am sure that is not politically correct, but we never felt un-safe in that situation.
We paid parking guards when they approached (and even paid one that didn't in a lot on the beach. It was such a hot day and we felt sorry for him and our car was safely where we left when we got back).
You need to take as many safety precausions as you would in any other city and of course, be very aware of your suroundings at all times.
The other reccomendation I would make is the rent a cell/mobile phone at the airport when you pick up the rental car. We did and really only used it once (on an unrelated issue), but we felt much safer having it available to us, should we need it.
Go and enjoy and just be careful.

tuckeg

Climbhighsleeplow gives good advice. I would add that I read local newspapers online before I travel to get a feeling for current conditions and potential trouble spots. One source is:

http://allafrica.com/

Clematis1

I really appreciate the candor from Eben and Tuckeg. I know you both have spent a lot of time in Africa as well.

As tourists, we are also very independent, bobbieharv, and have driven in NZ and Europe. But we preferred hiring private guide in Cape Town. Not only did we not have to worry about new traffic rules and patterns, but we got to relax and be with someone who could educate us about modern Africa. Maybe that's not for you, but I mention it for others reading this post.

If you hate big hotels, there are a lot of B and B type guesthouses everywhere.

bobbieharv

Wow - I must admit this was not what I expected! This board is so helpful. Now I'm thinking maybe we should stay in Green Point - but I hate to give up the view of the ocean.

tuckeg

I wouldn't be scared off, having a vehicle in Cape Town and self-driving works well but you should take a few precautions, as you would in many cities in the world. I think Clematis1 has a good idea about a private guide for a tour of the area. We were fortunate to have the sister of a friend drive us around for a day and while I like to drive myself, I have to admit it made for a very enjoyable day and I am sure I saw a lot more than I would have if I drove. If you are just going from A to B, then self-drive is fine and for the rest of our time in CT we self-drove with no problems (if you don't count getting briefly lost a couple of time).

annhig

hi, bobbieharv,

having just today returned from a holiday which included driving in CPT, I agree with all the OPs. We had a rental car fpr all of our 2 week trip, including our 3-4 days in CPT, though we didn't use it all the time there.

we did use it for visiting table mountain, Kirstenbosch, the city centre, and the cape, as well as for travelling on to our next destination.

We didn't use it at night as we felt more comfortable using the very cheap local taxis to get to and from the waterfront from our hotel.

we always parked where there was a "park-guard" [usually tipped 2 Zar or so] and didn't wander around at night in non-tourist areas. fortunately or not, we suffered no problems, not even when we were stopped for some time mending a flat tyre.

no tourists we met had had any problems at all, and I would encourage you to have your own vehicle, for the freedom this gives you to explore this wonderful and varied country. we certainly used it to the full in CPT in order to see teh sights we were interested in.

I'm about to start a trip report, which you may be interested in, but if you have any specific queries, please feel free to ask me on this thread.

regards, ann

520

Last November we stayed at Camps Bay Retreat--a beautiful boutique hotel in the hills above the bay. The first two days we used taxis, and rented a car for the last two for that part of the trip--and then for when we returned after safari and stayed in the Winelands and then the Gardens section of CPT. The car gave us SO much more flexibility, allowed us to do so much more when we wanted to, and was just generally liberating. We did have a cell phone; we did drive at night, did pay the parking guards, did stay within the general tourist areas, and were generally cautious but not paranoid. We, too, have travelled widely and only in Viet Nam did we hire drivers.

We took many day trips from CPT, and, again, were reasonably careful--but not paranoid.

Camps Bay is very beautiful and I would encourage you to stay there. We didn't take all the precautions that climbhighsleeplow recommends, but they don't sound unreasonable.

loncall

We stayed in camps bay last year [which is an exceedingly nice with lots of people strolling around the sea front in a completely relaxed fashion day and evening] and drove around everywhere with absolutely no problems at all. Wide well maintained, well signposted roads, traffic seemed to us to be very calm and orderly. During the enitre trip we where never once approached or in any way initimated either at trafic lights or in car parks. Seemed to us very considerably less hassle than our daily commute through South London !

bobbieharv

Thanks everyone again. Now that it seems clear to me that driving our own car (carefully) will be fine, I'm still torn between Camps Bay and Green Point. My husband is leaning toward Green Point, because he says the point of being in Cape Town is being in Cape Town, and that we can stay in a beautiful ocean view place anywhere, including the New Jersey shore! Where did you stay, Ann, and what would you (and others) recommend to get the best sense of the city? (We're only in Cape Town for 4 nights, and have already decided we don't want to stay in the waterfront area.)

Diamantina

Being based in Camps Bay, we found it very easy to get around Cape Town. It was a straight shot from Camps Bay to the Waterfront and only took about 10 to 15 minutes, plus, it was very scenic--you just take the road that goes along the waterfront all the way (for part of the time, at least, the road is called "Victoria Road"; the rest of the time it might be called "Beach Road," from what I can recall). This road goes through some of the most fashionable areas in Cape Town, and you are not likely to find yourself the only car on the road.
The Waterfront is home to the Victoria & Alfred Hotel (where you contemplated staying) connected to a large fancy shopping mall containing all kinds of shops, restaurants, bars, a cinema, and a large supermarket; a separate, large crafts market; the Aquarium; and the ferry to Robben Island. There is plenty of covered parking at the Waterfront (you pay at machines) and there are plenty of people about both day and night.
To get back to Camps Bay, you just follow the signs that say Camps Bay. Again, the road will travel along the waterfront, with the exception of a couple of blocks where the road turns in. It's best to study the map before you go out. For instance, it helps to know that Camps Bay is beyond Mouille Point, Sea Point and Clifton Bay, because sometimes the sign will not say Camps Bay but Sea Point or Clifton Bay (it'll help to know you are going in the right direction).
One time, we wanted to go from Camps Bay to the Central Business District during a weekday, to go to the Pan African Market and Greenmarket Square to shop for African crafts. We just parked at the Waterfront and took a taxi from there. We found this was easier than driving into the crowded and congested central business district. We had driven ourselves to the CBD a few days earlier to visit some museums, and found it was just not worth the aggravation of driving around looking for parking in such a busy area. At night, though, we felt okay going into the Central Business District from Camps Bay. One night we went to Africa Cafe and there was a parking lot with an attendant right across the street and plenty of people in the street going to the many bars and restaurants around there. Another night, we went to the Indian restaurant Bukhara, also in the CBD, and they also had a covered parking lot with an attendant right across the street. Plus, there is a guard who patrols the block. The restaurant Savoy Cabbage had free parking with an attendant in its own lot across the street. If you ever need to park your car in the street in the CBD, there are usually men who will watch it for you--you just give them some change when you return, something like 2 to 4 rand (this is how they earn their living). I noticed they were often clad in orange vests, which made them easy to spot.
It is also easy to get from Camps Bay to the Table Mountain cableway. You just go up Camps Bay Road, which cuts through Camps Bay, all the way up to
Tafelberg Road, where you turn to the right--this leads right to the cableway station (cars will be parked all along Tafelberg Road). The drive will take less than 10 minutes from Camps Bay.
Camps Bay also serves as an excellent base for trips to Hout Bay, Chapman's Peak Drive, False Bay and the Cape of Good Hope.
While there are many good guidebooks on South Africa, I think the South Africa DK Eyewitness Guide (a guidebook that I checked out the library) has the best maps. Just have a look at these maps and you will see how easy it is to get around. Also, you will probably feel less anxious about driving around Cape Town if you familiarize yourself with the roads in advance.
By the way, Cape Town, and South Africa in general, is very well marked with road signs.
Finally, if you stay at Fulham Lodge, you will find Tina and Tamara to be extremely helpful. They will also advise with safety tips, such as reminding you to make sure your car windows are close all the way when driving around Cape Town, and making sure that you leave nothing on the seat while you are driving around (put everything in the boot/trunk).
Bad things can happen in most big cities. Here, in San Francisco, many of my friends have been victims of crimes. One close friend was carjacked near touristy Fisherman's Wharf. Another close friend was raped at a ATM in a residential area. I had my purse snatched outside a supermarket. My cousin had her car window smashed and purse stolen at a stoplight downtown. My aunt fought off a man who put a knife to her throat when she was in downtown San Francisco. My grandfather was robbed at gunpoint in our grocery store in one of San Francisco's quietest, nicest neighborhoods. These crimes didn't stop us from loving our city. And, as you well know, San Francisco remains one the world's most loved cities. One just tries to be careful as possible, and just tries to be aware of one's surroundings (and sometimes even this won't prevent you from being a victim of crime, sometimes one is just in the wrong place at the wrong time). But I am sure you already know all these things.

ArthurSA

The Camps Bay area is close to Table Mountain, through Kloof Nek, as Diamantina says. But (speaking as an occasional visitor, I'm a "Durbs" boy resident in "Jozi'), I think that's also usually the quickest way to get to the CBD. Especially the Northern end.

annhig

hi again, bobbie,

"Where did you stay, Ann, and what would you (and others) recommend to get the best sense of the city?"

we stayed at the Radisson, which is just west of the waterfront proper - about 1 mile or so, though we never walked it. It was very well positioned for getting to the waterfront whether by car or taxi, or for going out on day trips, as you could just drive south along the coast road, by-passing CPT.

for getting into CPT on the one day we had to explore the city, we just drove along the main road and parked in a multi-storey car park we spotted. we could also have parked in the large open guarded car park next to the castle. our only problem came later when we got stranded on the other side of town in a rain storm, we had to walk back to the car park and then got stuck in the friday rush-hour traffic. In retrospect a cab would have been better.

if you wanted to spend your time in CPT proper, a more central hotel might be a better bet. If you want to just visit for a day, and possibly eat there once or twice, then the radisson or somewhere in camps bay would be very good options.

another thing to consider is the time of year you're planning to travel - we were there in July, when it's dark by 6.30pm.
other times of year it will be lighter and therefore you may feel more comfortable walking round at night, perhaps getting a cab home.

hope this helps

regards, ann

ArthurSA

Before any Capetonian gets a chance to correct my shaky geography, I got my orientation a bit awry in my earlier post. I should have said that the Kloof Nek road from Camps Bay is a good way to get to the "South Western end" of the City centre.

bobbieharv

I wonder if a Capetownian (or anyone else!) could comment about my husband's issue: that he likes to feel like he's staying in the midst of the city he's visiting - being able to walk around etc. It may sound like a stupid question, but if we stayed in a B&B in Green Point as opposed to Camps Bay, would we feel like we were getting more of an experience of the city? Are there more places to walk around in Green Point than Camps Bay? (I know we could just drive the 15 minutes and park, as some of you have so helpfully pointed out, but he does like this walking out the door thing.)

annhig

hi, bobbie,

I just looked at my insight fleximap of CPT [invaluable, never got lost once] and IMO, greenpoint would be worse than camps bay for walking around. It is right out at the "corner" where the coast round turns south, and from memory comprises the coast road, plus a road behind that is mainly shops and offices.

it could by no means be described as CPT proper, for which "Central" would be the area you want. we had no problem walking around in the day, but you might want to take advice from your hotel about walking around after dark.

the Victoria and Alfred waterfront was fine at night, though a little out of the way, which was why we got cabs there and back.

regards, ann

bobbieharv

Thank you so much. I'm going to email all of this to my city-obsessed husband, and hope we'll end up with the best of both worlds: ocean view; city experience nearby.

Diamantina

Hello Bobbie:
Fulham Lodge would probably not suit your husband as it is in a quiet residential area. Camps Bay itself has some restaurants and shops, but it's a bit of a hilly walk from the lodge to this commercial area (we always drove). You would probably be better off staying at the waterfront; it's busy, lots of people about, lots of things to see and do there. And even though it is very urban, it is also very scenic.
Plus, another poster tells me Fulham Lodge just raised their rates.

annhig

hi, bobbie,

if you want luxury and an ocean view, you couldn't do better than the radisson. we loved it! and as my son's consumption will testify, the breakfasts are terrific.

regards, ann