Glad you also enjoyed your time with DK and Warrior trails as much as we did. Also encouraged to read that someone else braved a driving safari We too liked Kibo in Amboseli, but were shut out of a Kili sighting - she is very shy! Cat sightings were closely monitored by the park rangers in Samburu, and they made sure the cars moved along after 10 minutes.

Finally, a large number of responses ! I was beginning to wonder if anyone was reading this at all.

Marija, Percy, taxjam, thanks for your encouragement. These comments will keep me going.

Sandi, I agree with you, that it would be simple to enact an entry time/exit time rule, with a penalty, which would act as a deterrent for drivers to overstay in the crater. Would make sense to activate such a procedure during high season times. When we went, in early November, there did not seem to be enough vehicles there to necessitate such a restriction.

renoduck, we had read your own trip report with great interest, since your safari was similar to ours, and had used the same tour operator. Daniel was talking about you.

You had been even more adventurous than us, as you had included many more destinations in your driving safari. But I remember you folks had really enjoyed it. So did we.

Indiancouple,

Am really enjoying your report and brings back memories of our safari in Kenya & Tanzania this past summer. Thanks for posting

Thanks AKR1; I remember studying your Trip Report too before our visit, as part of our planning.

Friday, Nov 12th : Day 7 : SERENGETI (Continued) :

After the previous afternoon's wonderful sightings, we decided to have an extended morning drive, starting earlier at 7:15 am. A good day's game drive can really charge you up, and we were firing on all cylinders ! Got up earlier than usual, got ready, had breakfast, and off at 7:15 am.

Had a long 5 hour game drive, and turned out to be one of the few game drives when there was not a single sighting of any of the big cats. However, we had been well satiated by cat sightings the previous day, so we did not mind. Other sightings came thick and fast, and we saw the following :
(i) Huge herds of Wildebeest arriving from the Mara as part of the annual migration. Each contingent was easily a few thousand in number.
(ii) A solo Elephant up very close
(iii) 2 vultures on a carcass
(iv) Huge Hippo out of water, very near our vehicle
(v) Herd of Impalas
(vi) Pair of Dik-diks (they pair for life)
(vii) Another huge Hippo out of water
(viii) Topi on a mound
(ix) A hippo skull at a lakeside
(x) Jackal drinking water very close by
(xi) Zebras, including young ones suckling milk
(xii) Giraffes, Wildebeest and Zebras all in the same picture
(xiii) Distant views of the plains, dotted with tens of thousands of migrating animals
(xiv) Herds grazing next to stone kopjes (very pretty)
(xv) A very tall lone giraffe, very close by
(xvi) Reedbucks and Waterbucks

Jimmy was driving us through the woodland regions of Serengeti, to offer variety in game drives. Despite huge number of herbivores all around, there were no cats to be sighted. We returned to Sopa Lodge by 12:15 pm. Had lunch and rested in our room. Food here was of very average quality, compared to the other lodges. Later in the afternoon, we had some coffee, and left for our afternoon game drive at 4 pm.

The afternoon drive started with sights of more herds of Wildebeests migrating to the Serengheti from the Mara. Then a rare sighting just by the roadside of a pair of mating Hyenas. Jimmy decided to drive around the swamp area this afternoon, as he was hopeful of rhino and cheetah sightings there. For the next 2 hours we drove all over the swamps, with not a single animal in sight (much less the ones we were looking for). No other vehicle in sight, and not even a gazelle sighted in 2 hours ! Talk of bad luck. Turned out to be a damp squib. Jimmy was crestfallen, but we realized that we were in a game park, not in a zoo, and there would be unlucky drives along with some lucky ones. Clicked pictures of a Giraffe, a Lilac breasted Roller, Harems of Impalas (and bachelor herds nearby), a few Elephants, and a male Lion sleeping at a distance. The most boring game drive of this safari.

We returned to the Sopa Lodge by 6:45 pm. Had a drink at the bar, followed by some average dinner (bad desserts !). Retired to bed.

Here is a link to our photos of Serengeti :

http://picasaweb.google.com/indianco...-lt_u5uu3a8wE#

Saturday, Nov 13th : Day 8 : Enroute to Masai Mara :

We had been warned that this would be a long long travel day, and were mentally prepared. We arose early, and after breakfast and check-out, were on the road at 7:15 am. There was a long 6 hour drive to the Kenyan border at Isebania, of which the first 2 hours were inside Serengeti. Again, we were driving through the region of endless plains, which I found particularly picturesque.

There were lot of animal sightings, but we did not stop anywhere for very long, as we had a lot of ground to cover. Nevertheless, we saw the following on our way out :
(i) Some impalas prancing around, as though they had springs affixed to their hoofs (jumping very high in the air!)
(ii) Lilac breasted Roller (once again: lovely bird)
(iii) An Elephant calf suckling milk
(iv) Zebras drinking water at a pond (always skittish)
(v) Giraffes
(vi) Marabou Storks
(vii) Leftover remains of a leopard kill atop a tree
(viii) Huge number of Giraffes congregating together

Jimmy reasoned that each animal species was coming forth to say goodbye to us - very flattering. The entire drive to Isebania border was on dirt road : 6 long hours, but altogether a smooth ride. We reached the border at 1:15 pm, and completed the crossover formalities in no time. A vehicle from D K Grand Safaris was waiting for us, with Ben as the driver guide. Quick change of vehicles, goodbye to Jimmy (he had been a great spotter), and on our way by 1:30 pm. We had already eaten our packed lunches on the way to the border.

The distance from the Isebania border to the gates of Masai Mara is not much, and should not take more than 30 minutes, if only decent roads existed. It took us about 3 hours. It is not that the roads were bad - the roads simply did not exist ! I could not believe that the holy grail of wildlife, the famed Masai Mara, had such non-existent access roads. Shame on the Kenyan government. I kept asking Ben if he was sure we were on the right track; he kept reassuring us that this was the only route (later confirmed by us at the lodge). Well if a road existed there, it must have been when the fossils of hominids were formed 1.75 million years ago at Oldupai Gorge ! It was the worst gut-wrenching nerve racking ride that I had ever taken in my life. By the time it was over, I felt exactly the way an impala must feel, after its innards have been gouged out by a leopard, and its remainders have been left dangling from a treetop !

Later, we spoke to Daniel Kikemu (owner of DK Grand) about this journey. He informed us that when renoduck of this forum had undertaken a similar journey a few months ago, it was not so bad. So the roads must have really deteriorated in the interim. I made him swear that he would not subject anyone else to this road journey until the roads were repaired (apparently the repairs have been contracted, but may take upto a year at Kenyan pace). I realize that it is quite expensive to fly from Serengeti to Mara, but I still felt that this road journey was unfit for humans. Do it only if your tour operator marshals an army tank from Iraq or somewhere to carry you.

We entered the gates of Masai Mara at 4:30 pm. Ben was pointing out animals as we drove, but we were so shaken and stirred, that if he had reported a Lion mating with a Cheetah, I doubt if I would have still looked up ! However, in all fairness, it looked like a beautiful park, with a great feel to it. Lots of animals everywhere. We drove straight to our lodge, the Mara Safari Serena Lodge, which is located in the centre of the park atop a hill. Reached there at 5:15 pm. Killer views from the lodge. Very nice rooms. Touch of class about this place.

We settled into our rooms, and booked 30 minute massages for each of us. The massages turned out to be average (not like the ones we had at Amboseli). Had a round of beer and went for dinner at 8 pm. Lovely buffet spread, and great choices for veggies. Excellent cooking. Over ate, stuffing ourselves with the delicacies. Then returned to our rooms, showered, and in bed by 10 pm.Long day. Exhausting.

Nice lion cubs in the Serengeti. Quite a large pride. I liked the giraffe conference.

I so appreciate and chuckled reading you're explanation and details of the drive between the Serengeti and Mara via Isebania.... what a wonderful command of our language

So often we mention this to visitors who have an itinerary planned to traverse the two parks by road, advising the time it'll take and quality of roads, but they still do it. Admittedly, flying can be expensive*, but you had spent 12/hrs door-to-door (which can be considered a wasted day, or ask "what is my comfort worth?") All I can say "folks, if reading this, please believe."

The description of the road reminds me of my first visit where, though not this route, instead from the Namanga turnoff to Amboseli there was nothing but washboard ahead of us. Most amazing was to see how our guide/driver navigated a distance that should normally take 1/hr took almost 3/hrs. They've since graded the road, and graded it again and again... still quite challenging.

Maybe when they complete the Nairobi/Namanga and Namanga/Arusha roads that have been worked on these past 2/yrs, the Namanga/Amboseli and even the Isebania/Mara roads will be next.... we can only hope.

Departing flights from the Serengeti between 10-11am, connecting at Arusha/JRO, onto Wilson and connecting here, you reach the Mara about 4pm. Then, epending where sited, reach your lodge/camp within the hour enjoying a game drive on the way.

*there is a special reduced rate from Serengeti via Arusha (or JRO) to Wilson and onto the Mara... it's worth the expense to save about half the time time and certainly more comfortable.

Again, still enjoying your report and looking forward to the rest.

Thank you so much for your very interesting report and the links to your photos. DH and I will go to Kenya and Tanzania with friends in September 2011, so I am eagerly reading all posts on this forum (and watching Big Cat Diaries from Netflix!)

Just caught up with the trip reports after couple days of hectic work. You have an amazing ability to capture minute details with such ease! Also watched the youtube video. Keep it coming - we are eagerly waiting for the Mara installment.

atravelynn, PA Kathy, glad you liked the pics. All through the trip I was kicking myself for not having invested in a 70-300 mm zoom lens. My 18-135 mm had severe limitations for shooting wildlife.

sandi, I did not know that roads on this sector would be so bad. I had read some trip reports on this forum written by people who had done a driving safari, and although people had reported some rough patches here and there, overall no one had experienced a major problem.

In our experience too, the drive from Nairobi to Amboseli was excellent (new roads, and took just over 3 hours: no problems). The drive from Amboseli to Namanga, then on to Arusha and Ngorongoro was long, but very very smooth. The drive from Ngorongoro to Serengeti was short and very comfortable. And our final leg from Mara to Nairobi was also quite decent (except for some brief rough patches). It is only the short stretch from Isebania to Mara which was so wretched.

As you mentioned, flying from Serengeti to Mara is circuitous; first you fly from Serengeti to Arusha, then to Nairobi and finally to Mara, taking up almost the entire day (or better part of it). I was told by someone that it costs about $ 500 per person. Had I known about this road condition, I would have routed the itinerary differently to include some air travel and some road journeys.

However, the real solution lies with the Kenyan government to urgently repair this short stretch of road. To have the world's most famed game park in your country, and no roads to access it is a shame. Considering that these parks bring in so many tourists and so much earning to the economy.

Thanks Rdy2Go, hope to finish the report over this weekend.

indiancouple:

Nice of you to explain the conditons of the roads coming to the Masai Mara.

I did this same road last year only in reverse, from the Mara Serena Lodge to the Serengeti Serena Lodge.

The drive took us 10 hours but we went via Lake Victoria and Spegal Bay

You are right , you could swear there is no road but the driver keeps on going.!

Several times I asked ,half joking, half serious, " Robert (our driver)your sure we are on a road " !!

I agree the Serena Lodge looks like a classy place in its lovely yellow and lime colored interior,and nice views to the Mara River in the distance.

Waiting to read more

Percy, so glad to hear that you people were also on the same road. Makes me feel better, to share the pains with someone else who has experienced it !

The strange thing is, our journey was before the short rains had arrived. What would that road look like after some rains ? Maybe someday they will have 100 vehicles stuck in there for 3 days, and then decide to pave the road.

Sunday, Nov 14th : Day 9 : MASAI MARA :

Got up at the usual time, and went for breakfast at 6:45 am. Once again the spread laid out was excellent, and we enjoyed the meal. The daily gifts from Daniel resumed, as we were now back in Kenya, and our driver Ben handed over to us our gift of the day !

Left for our morning game drive at about 7:30 am. Lovely 4 hour drive, in which there were large number of animal sightings :
(i) Herds of Wildebeests, migrating to the Serengeti
(ii) Large number of Topis in this park (Ben referred to them as antelopes wearing black Levis)
(iii) 5 Lions walking away to rest somewhere, with a bored expression on their faces, while a frightened herd of Wildebeests kept a watchful eye nearby
(iv) Hippo standing outside water
(v) Martial Eagle
(vi) Waterbucks
(vii) Buffaloes at very close quarters
(viii) A prematurely delivered Wildebeest baby (dead)
(ix) Two Giraffes wrestling with each other by inter-twining their necks; this carried on for a long time
(x) Wildebeests, Zebras and Gazelles galore all together in one photo

At some point in time, Ben drove us to the banks of the Mara river, which was extremely pretty. This is the famed river where the much-hyped river crossing takes place in July/August of the migrating animals, with crocodiles waiting in ambush. There were lots of Hippos swimming around in it, and many Crocodiles lounging on the banks. Huge number of animal bones scattered on the banks, as a result of the periodic feasting by the crocs. There were small herds of Wildebeests and Zebras waiting to make a crossing, but they appeared to be extremely wary and nervous. Despite the lack of any "action" at this time of the year, must say that we loved the beauty of the Mara river and its environs.

Soon thereafter, I was able to click large herds of Elephants, Zebras and Impalas all together in one picture. How peacefully they all co-exist. Then ran into large number of Hartebeests, then about 5-6 Hippos lying side by side outside the water, trying to get a sun-tan. Finally a lone Giraffe up so close to our vehicle, and not averse to freely posing for our cameras.

We returned to the Serena Lodge by 11:30 am, had a cup of coffee, and loitered around in their gift shop. Then had a wonderful lunch (the food here was the best in this trip), and took a nap in our room in the early afternoon. Woke up fresh, and left for the afternoon drive at 3:30 pm. This routine had been going on for the last 7-8 days, and it was disturbing that we were sleeping so much and eating so much, despite lack of any physical activity. However, I was not complaining, as this relaxed schedule was completely cathartic and soothing to the body and the mind.

As our afternoon drive started, and we came down the hill from the Serena Lodge, we spotted a solitary Lioness, feasting on a Wildebeest kill. During the last 8-9 days we had seen enough wildlife in quantity and variety, and we now felt compelled to stick to one cat and follow her for some time. We patiently watched her at a distance, with our binoculars. After some time, she finished eating, and walked away some distance to rest. We kept an eye on her, and slowly moved our vehicle to a road towards which she appeared headed. Every 10 minutes or so, she would get up, walk some more and then sit down. We patiently tracked her and let her gradually come closer. After about an hour of patient watch, she finally reached our vehicle, crossed the road before us, and wandered off in the wilderness.

Ben drove off in a new direction, where there were no other vehicles in sight. We saw a Secretary bird, walking like a lady on stilettos. Then we came across a rare sighting : a Hyena den, with about 6-7 Hyenas sleeping outside the den. This was a very close sighting, just next to the vehicle. Then came across a large herd of Waterbucks : a large male with horns with several females nearby.

Ben had heard of a Rhino sighting on the radio, and was driving in the area where the animal had been sighted, but to no avail. This was the only Big 5 animal that we still wanted to see. We had seen one at Ngorongoro, but that sighting was a long distance away. We knew that it required exceptional luck to spot a Rhino.

Just the, news came on the radio of a Cheetah sighting, and Ben rushed there. There were only 3-4 vehicles parked there, and a lovely Cheetah was lying on the grass, very close by, totally unperturbed. This was a very close sighting, and we were thrilled. The Cheetah scratched itself, stretched a bit, and finally got up and walked around our vehicles. Then slowly wandered off, but remained in full view. Suddenly, we saw it going for a kill, chasing a herd of Topis. The light was fading, and we expected the Cheetah to get its dinner, but alas the Topis got away, and the Cheetah slowed down.

We moved in that direction, and eventually again caught up with the Cheetah. We wanted to track it for more time, but it was getting to 6:30 pm, the time when tourists have to get off the park. Ben was not upto taking any chances, and sped off towards the Mara Serena Lodge, getting us there at 6:45 pm. It had been a satisfying day's game watching, and we had sighted a wide variety of animals. Plus we had spent quality time with one Lioness and one Cheetah.

The Serena Bar at Mara is lovely, and has both indoor and outdoor seating (where a bonfire is lit). There were two comfy armchairs which had become our favorite haunt during the past day, where we rested with a Martini. Lazed around for a while, watching the bonfire, and sharing our day's sightings with other tourists seated nearby. Then moved over for dinner, which was superb as usual, in particular the desserts. Then off to bed.

Rhino and Cheetah, plus a hyena den, you can't beat that unless a serval hopped into your vehicle and feel asleep on your lap.

Good stuff, I feel like I am riding along beside you.

This report is getting better and better. I must commend you for the finest and clearest report yet on the road access from the Serengeti to the Mara. I had known the road was horrible and the travel time closer to 12 hours than the 8 hours many TOs claim it is, but I was unable to find a report anywhere as clear as yours on this point. Your comment on being so shaken & stirred that you would not have looked up if there was a lion mating with a cheetah made me laugh so hard I almost dropped my coffee.
On a serious note, my view remains the Kenyan and the Tanzanian governments need to get their act together and open at least one of the closed border crossings between the Mara and the Serengeti so this whole Isebania crossing drive around nonsense will end. And please don't tell me thats the way it is because I guaranty its costing both sides tourist dollars. I will not do both the Mara and the Serengeti again on one trip because even the flight is a huge hassle and waste of most of a day. However if the border was open I would definitely do both the Mara and the northern Serengeti and it would incentivize me to go to East Africa instead of South Africa for our next safari.