Highlights of Kenya & Tanzania: 2010 Trip Report

Old Nov 27th, 2010, 06:44 AM
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Highlights of Kenya & Tanzania: 2010 Trip Report

We returned last week from an 11 day Safari to Kenya and Tanzania. A thoroughly enjoyable and most unusual kind of vacation. We had been dreaming of this African Safari for a long time, and finally it became possible.

During these 11 days, we covered the following locations:
Nairobi - 1 night
Amboseli - 2 nights
Ngorongoro Crater - 2 nights
Serengeti - 2 nights
Masai Mara - 3 nights

You could say that we covered the top highlights of both countries. It was an entirely "drive through" safari, with no use of flights for internal travel. This helped keep the costs under control, and we did not mind the road journeys (except one, which I will come to later !). The trip started and ended at Nairobi, with a night spent there at the beginning.

A bit about ourselves. We are a couple from India in our early 50's . We are avid travelers, and like to have variety in our travels. We have traveled to most continents, but our only trip to Africa so far had been to Egypt. We had visited various game parks in India, and had been drooling about the possibility of having a true safari in Africa. We started planning over 6 months ago by reading the Fodors African Safari Planner, and scouring this forum for advice. We stumbled on a trip report by Lynda_S, who seemed to be an expert on East African safaris, having been here 4-5 times. She has also compiled an excellent index of all East African Safari Trip Reports posted here, which is extremely helpful. In her latest trip report, she highly recommended a new tour operator based in Kenya : D K Grand Safaris. The owner, Daniel Kikemu, apparently had worked for many years with Micato (a big tour operator in Kenya), and had decided to set up his own operation.

Based on Lynda's recommendation, we contacted D K Grand Safari, and the responses were prompt, courteous, and tailored to our requirements. We gave a list of parks that we wanted to visit, and approximate dates, and Daniel was quick to respond with an itinerary to suit our needs and budget. We checked the reviews of the lodges that he had recommended (on Tripadvisor), and requested for changes wherever we were not completely satisfied. Must say that Daniel was always very accommodating and came up with suitable alternates. We felt so comfortable with him, that we never searched for alternate quotes. I know this is unusual, but I always got the impression that his quotes were very reasonable, his knowledge was good, and he was making a genuine effort to give us the best "tailor made private safari". After many exchanges of mail, we zeroed in on the final itinerary and lodge selections, and froze the price. He agreed on accepting a 30% advance payment, with the balance to be paid upon arrival at Nairobi, which suited us fine.

From the time we sent the advance, we continued to read trip reports on this forum for safari trips to East Africa. We came across a few others who also availed of services of D K Grand Safaris in the subsequent months, and everyone had glowing reports of their experience. Also privately e-mailed to Lynda_S, and was assured that we would be in excellent hands with Daniel Kikemu. There was not much else to do but wait and watch for the safari dates in early November to arrive. About 2 months prior to our trip, we received a surprise shipment of 2 excellent safari duffel bags from D K Grand Safaris, which got us excited. A month before our trip, a detailed write-up arrived by e-mail, which answered virtually any question that we may have had about little things connected with the safari.

This completes my preamble to the trip report. Will start posting the detailed Trip Report in daily installments, as and when I get time.
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Old Nov 27th, 2010, 10:58 AM
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I've enjoyed reading your other reports, so I'm looking forward to reading this one too.
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Old Nov 27th, 2010, 08:02 PM
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Thanks Femi, for following my trip reports. Hope this one turns out well !
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Old Nov 27th, 2010, 08:54 PM
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Saturday, Nov 6th: Day 1 : NAIROBI

We had to board a Kenya Airways flight in the wee hours of the morning from Mumbai to Nairobi. President Obama was due to land in Mumbai the same night, and we were worried that getting to the airport may become difficult, with a security blanket being thrown around the area. Fortunately, it was revealed that his aircraft would be landing in the morning, a few hours after we were due to depart, so we faced no problems.

The Kenya Airways flight had an unkempt cabin, and dirty toilets. Saving grace was ample legroom, and half of the seats being empty. So we could comfortably sleep during the 5-6 hour flight to Nairobi, arriving on time at 6:30 am at the Jomo Kenyatta airport.

Having taken a visa prior to arrival was no help, as the line for people with visas took as long as those without visas. However, the wait time for immigration clearance is irrelevant, as the baggage wait time is enormous. Took about 75 minutes after the aircraft landing before our bags emerged on the conveyor, and it was 7:45 am by the time we walked outside, to be greeted warmly by Daniel Kikemu of D K Grand Safaris.

He drove us to our hotel near downtown, the Sarova Pan Afric Hotel. We made it within 30 minutes. Got an upgrade to a superior room. The hotel was OK; nothing to rave about, and nothing to rant about either. Rooms were large and comfortable, through a tad outdated, and the bathroom slope was in the wrong direction. But we didn't really care, as we were there just for a night.

We had our showers, and breakfasted in the hotel restaurant. Decent breakfast spread, though somewhat overpriced. Daniel arrived at the appointed hour, 10:30 am, with complimentary safari caps as presents. Also lent us binoculars for the safari, along with books on wildlife in East Africa. We were driven first to the David Sheldrick Animal Orphanage. This is a nice place where they rear orphaned baby elephants and baby rhinos for a few years, and then re-introduce them to the wild. Public viewing is allowed for only one hour each day, from 11 am till noon. We reached there on the dot at 11 am, when the first group of about 10 baby elephants were being brought out for public view.

The viewing public stands around the baby elephants, cordoned off loosely with a rope. However, they frequently stray very close to the spectators, and you are allowed to touch them and pet them, which we freely did. They are fed soy milk from huge 5 ltr bottles by their keepers, and the baby elephants grip the bottle tightly with their trunk while they devour the contents. Takes about 2 minutes to polish off the milk ! Then they play around a bit, kicking at water troughs, or falling over one another, or deliberately falling down and tripping their "friends" so that they can fall on each other ! Very enchanting site. After about 20 minutes the group was taken back to their quarters, and another group of 9 baby elephants emerged, for an encore. This group was slightly older, nearing 3 years of age, and getting ready for re-introduction to the wild.

The orphanage also had 2 baby rhinos, but they were to be viewed from outside their fenced enclosures, as rhinos are not as friendly as elephants. Then we saw the sleeping quarters of the baby elephants - individual rooms with straw on the floor, and a bunk bed for the keeper to sleep on. Apparently the baby elephants refuse to sleep unless their keeper sleeps in the same room !

From there, it was a short drive to the Giraffe Center, which rears a few of the endangered Rothschild giraffes. We climbed something like a tree-house, where we came within talking height to the giraffes. We were supplied nuts, which we could hold out in our hands, for the giraffes to eat. Very strange feeling when the giraffe would lick your palm while eating the nuts ! Great photo ops.

After the Giraffe Center, it was time for lunch, and we were taken to the famed "Carnivore" restaurant which we had heard so much about. Although we were vegetarians, we had opted for this place to experience the ambiance; besides, they have a surprisingly good selection of vegetarian dishes. It was packed to capacity, and it was interesting to see various meats being cooked in an open kitchen (ranging from ox balls to crocodile meat !). Waiters would bring various meats on skewers to each table, and carve out portions to everyone. We stuck to Vegetarian platters and lasagnes, downed with Tusker beer. This was rounded off with passionfruit and strawberry shorbets, and coffee, while Daniel went over our safari itinerary in detail, and answered any remaining questions.

We were dropped back to our hotel by 3 pm. We had arranged for some family friends (living in Nairobi) to meet us in the afternoon. They picked us up from the hotel a short while later, and we drove to their home. Spent a lovely afternoon with them, feasting on home-made Indian delicacies, and had a really nice time. They gifted us a wine bottle to enjoy during our safari, and dropped us back by 6 pm. We were tired, jetlagged, and full to the neck with food. So we just crashed out in bed, without bothering to have dinner, and were fast asleep by 7 pm.
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Old Nov 28th, 2010, 06:17 AM
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Sunday, Nov 7th: Day 2 : AMBOSELI :

We woke up at 6 am, after sleeping soundly for 11 hours, and were fresh to start our real safari. Got ready, had a hearty breakfast, and were ready to go by 8 am. Daniel arrived at 8 am, with surprise gifts for the day (this was to become a daily phenomenon throughout our safari !). We were introduced to our driver-guide for the next few days, Steve, and a young intern called Dennis. We inspected our safari vehicle, a sturdy Toyota Landcruiser with a pop-up roof, well stocked with water and sodas in an ice-box, and all to ourselves (although it could comfortably seat 6 people).

By 8:15 am we were off to Amboseli. As we weaved out of Nairobi, Steve pointed out Marabou Storks perched on treetops and lamp-posts; these birds typically feed on city garbage. Our safari had just begun !

At 10:15 am we made a short pit-stop at Emali town, and then proceeded on. Enroute, Steve pointed out some Redbilled and Yellowbilled Oxpeckers (on backs of cows), a black male Ostrich, a herd of Giraffes, and a group of Gerenuks (not a common sighting !). And we were still to enter the Amboseli park !

Made it to the gates of Amboseli Park by 11:30 am, and entered through the Iremito Gate. This was followed by a 75-minute game drive, before we were to check into our lodge. Steve was very knowledgeable about wildlife, and very talkative. And a great spotter. We saw the common Zebras, large herds of Elephants everywhere (with white Egrets near their feet), Crown Cranes (who pair up for life), the white-bearded Wildebeest (who usually co-exist with zebras; zebras eat the top portion of grass, and wildebeest the bottom portion), Giraffes (who co-exist with all herbivores, as they can spot a predator due to their height advantage, and warn the others), and Waterbucks (who are usually not hunted by lions, as their meat is tough and smelly !). Learned how to distinguish a Grant gazelle from a Thomson gazelle. Also saw various pretty birds like the Superb Starling, Buffalo Weaver (one of the little 5), and the Social Weaver, along with several Ostriches. This was our first game drive, and every animal sighting was exciting and informative.

At 12:45 pm we reached our lodge, the Kibo Safari Camp, a permanent tented camp. We were greeted with a hot towel and a welcome drink of passionfruit juice. We were led to our tent, which was very enchanting. A reasonable sized bed and other basic furniture, a zipped partition which separated the toilet and shower area, and a small private sitout in the front. Baboons and birds romping all around the tent. Power and hot water available for extended hours in the morning and the evening.

We had lunch in the restaurant at about 1:30 pm. There was a decent buffet spread, with lots of options for vegetarians. We had the Potato Leek soup, Ugali with fried cabbage, a variety of salads, and lots of vegetables and French fries. Wonderful dessert of Bananas with chocolate sauce, and Passion fruit tarts. Our waiter, Charles, took pains to understand our dietary preferences, and promised special meals for us during the next two days. The staff everywhere were extremely warm, friendly and courteous, and we were really liking this place.

We relaxed in our tent for a while, and left at 4 pm (after a cup of coffee) for our afternoon game drive. Amboseli is a very picturesque game park, with Mt Kilimanjaro looming over the horizon. We saw many more Zebras, Giraffes and Wildebeest (which were becoming passe by now), large number of Thomson and Grant gazelles, and Crown cranes. However, the charm of Amboseli lies in its large Elephant population. Wherever you turn, you see large herds of Elephants, with their little ones huddled in the center. Learned that herds are exclusively made up of female elephants, with males banished once they reach puberty ! We were not avid bird watchers, but with the lovely specimens visible here, this was due for a change. Saw the Blacksmith bird, the Saddle billed stork, the Kori Bustard - Daniel's binoculars came very handy. Saw a herd of Cape Buffaloes (another big 5 sighting, after the Elephants). Spotted many Hippos lounging in the water, and frequently opening their jaws for a yawn. Came across Yellow baboons, and saw a mother baboon picking up her young one and sticking him to her underbelly ! We were in the home of the animals, in their territory, and were truly enjoying every moment.

Suddenly, a radio message was received of a Cheetah sighting. Steve rushed the vehicle to the spotting site, and we were rewarded with the sight of a lone female Cheetah. Unfortunately, there were about 30 vehicles all around, and the Cheetah was quite nervous. She wanted to cross the road, but found her path blocked by the large number of vehicles. She nervously ran up and down, before she saw an opening, crossed the road, and ran away. We had seen the Cheetah at a distance of about 40-50 feet, and felt satisfied.

Nearby was the largest herd of elephants (over 100) that we were going to see during our next 10 days. They were also attempting to cross the road, and did not seem to like the heavy vehicle population. One young male kept trumpeting and doing a mock charge towards us ! The others were more seasoned, kept their cool, and quietly made the road crossing, before heading off towards the foothills of Mt Kili (where they would spend the night). Of the herd, two young males were sparring with each other by locking their tusks and wrestling. This continued for quite a while, and was a sight to behold.

We returned to Kibo Safari Camp after 6:30 pm. Headed straight to the bar and had a Dawa (Vodka with Lime and honey), which was divine. DW had a fruit cocktail. Then had a glass of wine, and sat by the campfire. Reported for dinner at 8 pm, and our waiter Charles greeted us with a specially prepared meal of Tomato Soup, Chapatis, Rice, a spicy Dal and a Veg Curry. The preparations were exquisite, and extremely satisfying. Charles was a model of perfection in his service and attention.

After dinner we returned to the campfire, where a Masai dance was about to start. Cannot say that we enjoyed the jumping around which they called a dance ! We returned to our tent, and retired to sleep by 10 pm. It had been a very fulfilling day, and a great start to our safari.
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Old Nov 28th, 2010, 11:25 AM
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Glad to read that DK Grand came through for you. Too bad about 30 vehicles at a cheetah sighting! I wonder if they try to regulate that in Amboseli.

Looking forward to your next installment.
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Old Nov 28th, 2010, 06:03 PM
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Leely, I don't think any of the parks try to regulate the number of vehicles at an animal sighting, except for the Masai Mara, which caps the vehicles at 5, and your sighting time at 10 minutes (in case more than 5 vehicles are in wait). Wish more parks would do the same.

However, we were much luckier with our subsequent sightings, as we had the animals mostly to ourselves.
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Old Nov 28th, 2010, 07:08 PM
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Here is a link to the photos at Nairobi, mainly of the Animal Orphanage and the Giraffe Center. I hope the link works.

http://picasaweb.google.com/indianco...PqAvM7AwrOtHQ#
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Old Nov 28th, 2010, 08:55 PM
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Your photos show how up close and personal you can get.

How did the baby elephants at Sheldrick react to being touched?

Cheetahs are popular, but I am surprised at 30 vehicles.

Glad you were so pleased with D&K.
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Old Nov 28th, 2010, 09:37 PM
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atravelynn, I am following your own trip report on this forum with interest, as you went to different parks than us.

The baby elephants at David Sheldrick orphanage seemed quite accustomed to human contact, and they seemed to enjoy the petting by spectators.

The 30 vehicles at Amboseli must have been because the sighting of the large elephant herd (>100) and the cheetah happened at the same location. However, the sheer number of vehicles took away from the sight.
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Old Nov 29th, 2010, 02:18 AM
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I am enjoying your adventures very much. DK certainly sounds better and better with every report. Looking forward to more.
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Old Nov 29th, 2010, 04:42 AM
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Thanks twaffle; encouragements will keep me going and make me finish this report !

Yes, there have been various glowing reviews of DK Grand Safari on this forum, and I would endorse them completely. They delivered exactly what was promised; no unpleasant surprises (lots of pleasant ones !), and flawless execution.
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Old Nov 29th, 2010, 07:34 AM
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Monday, Nov 8th : Day 3: AMBOSELI :

For today, we had opted for an early morning pre-breakfast game drive. Accordingly, we got up at 5 am. The camp lights were on, and there was piping hot water in the showers. Got ready, had a cup of coffee, and left for the game drive by 6:30 am.

As during the previous day, Mt Kilimanjaro remained shrouded in clouds, and we had yet to set its top. For the first two hours, our game drive was fairly average. We saw various small herds of Elephants, Cape Buffaloes, a pair of Ostriches with about 15-20 chicks, some spotted Hyenas, and a few striped Hyenas (not very common), along with many birds : Red-billed Storks, White-bellied Bustard. We kept a lookout for lions, and during the last 30 minutes of our drive, our prayers were answered, and we finally spotted 3 female lions resting some distance away from the road. There was no "action" happening, and the lions were some distance away, but it was our first sighting of the majestic cats, and we felt happy.

We returned to the camp by 9 am, and had a sumptuous breakfast of fruits, juices, eggs, potatoes, sweet potatoes, breads and coffee. Specially liked the "tree tomatoes". Then relaxed in our tent, gave away clothes for laundry, and made some travel jottings. At 11 am, we went for a swim in the lovely pool,followed by a wonderful couple massage. The massage rooms had a wonderful "open" atmosphere with lovely views, and the masseurs were excellent. Then had lunch of Brocolli soup,salads, together with some specially prepared veg items for us. Relaxed some more in our tent.

At 3pm, we departed to a nearby Masai village. This was listed as an "optional item" on our itinerary, but we were pleasantly surprised to know that it had been arranged and paid for by the tour operator. At the Masai village we were greeted by a young Masai called Patrick, who was a 24-yr old schoolteacher of the village, and spoke excellent English. He had only 1 wife, but confessed that we wanted the number to reach 5 ! Saw a Masai dance; then squatted on the ground for a Masai prayer. We were then lectured about their diet (which included animal blood !), herbal medicines, and shown how they light a fire using friction between pieces of wood. Were taken inside one hut to see their living quarter. We distributed colored ballpens to the Masai kids and left. Not the most exciting experience.

By 4:15 pm, we were back on our game drive, and saw a herd of impalas (one male with about 30 females : some guys have all the luck !). Then our driver Steve wandered off on an isolated road, and soon spotted an adult Lioness in a distance. As we watched her from afar, he noticed some Lion cubs ahead, right by the road side. As we looked left and right, we saw about 8 cubs, all in the 1-2 yr age group, seated on either side of the road ahead of us. It was too good to be true, and Steve gently moved the vehicle forward till we were right in the midst of these 8 cubs : about 4 of them just to the left of the road, and 4 to the right of the road. And we had them all to ourselves, with no other vehicle in sight ! This was our first lion sighting at such close range. There was initially some concern as to whether we could leave our windows and pop-up roof open, but Steve reassured us that it was perfectly safe. A few minutes spent with the lions, and any fears that we had quickly evaporated.

We decided to stay put here, as it is not common to have a pride of 8 lion cubs all to yourself, all within 20-30 feet distance. Slowly, the ones to the left of the road crossed over to our right, one by one, going right past our vehicle. They all perched at different spots, spaced out within 15-20 ft of each other, and all were constantly gazing in a common direction : towards their mother in a distance. One of the cubs was a 2-3 yr old lioness (the eldest of the lot), and seemed ready to hunt on her own. We spotted some warthogs grazing not far away, but strangely, the cubs showed no interest towards them, and remained transfixed towards their mother.

After a while, the eldest cub suddenly noticed the warthogs. She slowly got up, and began crouching backwards, to remain concealed. The other cubs saw her move, and their gaze shifted to the warthogs. The eldest cub moved just past our vehicle, still walking backwards, and slowly went off in a circular way closer to the warthogs. As she neared the warthogs, she camaflouged herself in some tall grass, and we could see her slowly slinking towards the warthogs. When she had reached very close, the warthogs sensed some danger, and suddenly stopped grazing. Just then the young lioness emerged from the grass and charged for a kill. The warthogs ran fast, but they were running in the direction of the other 7 cubs. Smart move by the young lioness ! Alas, the other cubs were too young and inexperienced. They quickly stood up and revealed themselves, and did not charge towards the warthogs in time. The warthogs saw the other cubs, changed directions, and kept running fast till they were out of reach, and the young lioness gave up. Failed attempt at a kill.

We had spent about 45-60 minutes with these lions, and had witnessed a very rare spectacle at close quarters, all by ourselves. We were on Cloud 9, and could not believe our good luck. The rest of the game drive that day had to be anticlimactic. We drove to an observation hill in the park, and walked up the hill along with various other tourists. Steve was telling all the other drivers about what we had just seen, and most vehicles started speeding off in that direction. Anyway, we had great views from the hilltop, clicked photos, and returned.

We continued our game drive, seeing more of the "usual" animals, and some birds: Fly Eagle, lots of Pelicans splashing in the water, etc. But we couldn't stop reminiscing about the lion pride. We returned to our Camp by 6:45 pm, and headed straight to the bar. A spicy Bloody Mary, superbly made, a glass of wine, followed by excellent dinner (Onion soup, extremely well prepared vegetable curries, chappatis, rice etc). Delicious. Received a round of gifts from DK Grand Safaris through Steve.Then retired to bed, after a most wonderful safari day. We had seen more than what we had hoped for in one day. Only regret was not yet having seen the top of Mt Kilimanjaro. Oh well, our luck would surely change tomorrow on that front too.
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Old Nov 29th, 2010, 07:36 AM
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Here is a link to some of our Amboseli photos :

http://picasaweb.google.com/indianco...MqLwKqdxPyDUw#
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Old Nov 29th, 2010, 07:10 PM
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You were lucky with the lions. The warthog was lucky too.

Love your elephant photos, particularly those featuring the youngsters.
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Old Nov 29th, 2010, 07:37 PM
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Amboseli really came through with its famed ele herds, and even a cheetah thrown in the mix. Was this the cheetah that attrated 30 vehicles worth of admirers?

Hope Amboseli comes through with Kili views for you too.
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Old Nov 29th, 2010, 08:00 PM
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Yes Leely, we were particularly lucky with the lions. We continued to be lucky with them, as further installments of this TR will show.

atravelynn, yes this was the same cheetah that had attracted 30 vehicles. The sighting had been blared aloud on the radio, and every vehicle clambered to reach there.
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Old Nov 29th, 2010, 10:43 PM
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Thanks Indiancouple for a wonderful trip report. We are also an Indian family starting out to plan a very similar trip. The info in your report is timely and will be very valuable. Keep it coming!
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Old Nov 30th, 2010, 12:53 AM
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Rdy2Go, glad to see some more Indian families planning an African Safari. For some strange reason, it is not very popular in India to go for an animal safari vacation. Happy to note that this trip report will be helpful to someone. Do you live in India, or in US/Europe ?
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Old Nov 30th, 2010, 08:19 AM
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We are in India now, recently moved back home after 15 years in the US.

Enjoyed browsing through your pictures, especially the huge herd of elephants!
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