momlettinggo

Here is my link to the Pafuri walking trails we have found space on- http://www.returnafrica.com/activiti...alking-trails/
From their calendar, they only book people for 3 nights in the tent camp starting on either Monday or Friday. And folks can come early (or stay late) for the 7th (Thursday) night or move up to the Lodge after the 3 days sequence. That is their process from April to October and they don't do the trails in the rainy season. I think that is different than being able to go tented in other camps for 2 days starting whenever. Lanner Gorge and Crooks Corner are both on the itinerary, and it seems a given that their population came for bush trails, I hope.

With your advice, I did reserve 3 nights at nDzuti back to back after Pafuri which means a long drive straight through or outside the park. We can do Shindzela with a layover night at Phalaborwa that I found, but I would have to cut back to 2 nights at nDzuti if we decide to drive through Kruger and take our time staying over, which might be worth it to taste all and not rush.

I like your suggestions about flying in and out without driving back to JNB. So I'll tackle those details tomorrow. Too tired at PST and with DST change still shaking me up.

And as I get this budget finalized, I will consider the TSL special again, especially if we aren't going to be paying for road transfers galore, and we cut back a day at nDzuti and save a day at Parfuri.

The Rhino issue should not be a problem. When we go back to Malawi with our daughter, we will go to Liwonde, and we have a good chance to see Rhino. Here's from the Mvuu Camp website--

"The Rhino Tracking Experience is a unique opportunity to join the rhino Protection Team scouts and your guide in tracking rare black rhino on foot; learn about their conservation - and end with a delicious bush breakfast or dinner."

And from a traveler review 3 weeks ago--"Up at 6am following the tracker as quietly as we can as he tracks the radio signals transmitted from the rhinos horn. And yes, we were luck enough to be there when we found our rhino."

From what I can see, both the Lodge and the Camp at Liwonde look and are well rated luxury camps and at affordable $$. Hence our willingness to go more rustic outdoorsy and stretch our budget@GKNP. We will finish off at a nice lodge and leave some $$ in our daughter's country too. We will definitely see hippo and crocs and elephants and birds there. And probably pay for the 6 am Rhino Experience.

So now, I'll sleep on it and consider whether we will add in a 4th safari in another country with your encouragement! Maybe skip Cape Town? I did check flights out for my daughter and found that if she needed to return to Blantyre early from Kruger, she would have to lay over 1 night in JNB. But then I checked and it was $1 more to fly from CPT to Blantyre and do a quick sightseeing tour to the Cape and Table Mountain and layover there with us. Just longer in flight time, but hey since its their off season, Maybe we all 3 skip CPT or only do 2 days if we feel the pull of TSL.

inquest

Don't know if you are still considering Zambia and the South Luangwa NP, and the above discussion about Lower Zambezi NP.I loved Zambia for its unique wildlife experience.Its not as 'commercial' as yet( rather,hope not).There are still some regions which are not accessible for large part of the year,as in climate & distances wise.The most memorable being South Luangwa and the walking safari,a leopard on a tree 20 ft up and baring his fangs at us! Up close and mesmerising!!
Next on the list min Zambia is Kafue NP and the Busanga Plains.

I stayed at Gwabi River Lodge,on the banks of the Kafue River and down stream is the Zambezi River and the Lower Zambezi NP.They have canoe safaris ( motorized and paddle) along the Zambezi,across which is the Mana Pools NP.Some great sightings of elephants and hippos. Nile crocs aplenty.Fishing is their USP.Stay was decent and so was food.A good place to unwind.

The highlight was the sundowner on a sand bar in the middle of the river and a large bull elephant munching away on the opposite bank.

http://www.gwabiriverlodge.com/about-us.html

Just under 150 kms from Lusaka,a couple of hrs comfortable drive.They have an office in Lusaka.A short detour,on the way back to Lusaka,stop over for an overnight at Lake Kariba. Worth it.The Manchinchi Bay lodge is a wonderful place.

Have a wonderful holiday.

inquest

Considering 10-14 days(am I correct or am I 'lost in conversation',
if so forgive me ) and a minimum of 3 nights at a selected camp/lodge and travel time,you would probably left with 3-4 places only.This is to maximize your chances of game viewing.

inquest

Proflight connects,Lilongwe,Lusaka,Livingstone and Mfuwe (South Luangwa).

I'm sure you are aware that travelling to a country takes up a whole day considering to & from the airport,immigration checks,security and waiting time and boarding,not to mention a minimum of 2-3 hrs of travel time and delays if any.Factoring all this,its advisable to do one other country apart from Malawi.

momlettinggo

Thanks for the wonderful endorsement of options in Zambia, which truly appealed to me, inquest. Just found that currency exchange with Rand plus the year round season in Kruger keeps the costs much lower than the small, beautiful remote and seasonal camps in Luangwa, especially considering we are arriving from very different places and for us it's our vacation to get away from civilization, and for our daughter it's a vacation away from her remote location in Malawi nearby. So Kruger area is our best choice. I am hopeful that after the time limited vacation for my daughter and husband, I will be able to stay on for a 2 week volunteer vacation at Chimfunshi if there is still space available. I'll consider that my travel agent's commission for doing all the family planning and logistics research !

christabir

I just saw the walking safaris have 20% off in May. Probably not combinable (is that a word?) with the TSL special. The walks also take you to all the beauty - I changed my mind (I hope this doesn't mess you up too much) to do the Pafuri walking/nDzuti combo. TSL can wait - your daughter might want to have some city time. 2 days doesn't give enough time. Don't miss the Penguins at Boulder Beach (or other) and I am glad I did Robben Island. Just be aware that there has been some harassment of tourists hiking Table Mtn. Ask while you're in CT about it.

TSL is only a 3 hour drive from Pafuri, plus a short drive to camp. Better than a flight to Maun or VF for another country. . Definitely check on those flights since your husband doesn't want those long drives. Ask nDzuti and Pafuri if the drive between them will work out between game drives.

That rhino thing looks fantastic! I love that kind of thing, even in the smaller reserves. You'll see them at nDzuti, too (no guarantees of anything!).

Good luck with your planning.

momlettinggo

Christabir, I'll be glad when I get consensus, buy trip insurance an hit send on the airfare. Each day something else comes up with daughter or husband as a problem with the dates, and right now its overcast so she has no solar charge so we can't talk. I am back to an earlier date and if we could start in Pafuri on May 30 there is 20% off, but more likely June 3.
And with that, nDzuti or nThambo could be more open so we will fly to Hoedspruit, rent a car and drive over to Phalaborwa and spend one night. Then leave early to drive through Park to Pafuri. Then we can drive back south outside the Park. So google says its 5 1/2 hr days straight through. We will make lots of stops and start early to return the car & be in camp by sundown.

The last day we can transfer back to Hoedspruit and fly direct to CapeTown. Thanks for the suggestions/cautions on CT. I'm focusing on safaris first, flights 2nd, and then off season details at CT when I've finished the rest as I know there will be availability there.

We've concluded that if our daughter needs to reduce days, CT is where to do it. She can fly back to Malawi and we'll go on. We can gift her the airfare and lodging costs, and she can go with other friends from PC in season. But that's up to her. She might also want to do just nDzuti or nThambo, and that could work too.

This will be our shot at CT and we plan to ride the cable vs. hike it at Table Mountain. After all our walking, time is of the essence in seeing things there. Penguins, Robben Island, Cape Point, any other suggestions?

christabir

Before life with a preexisting condition, I never bought insurance for the travel part, just bought lots of medical/evac insurance - $500000/$1 million. I use www.insuremytrip.com and put in the dates, etc, but entered zero in the trip cost box. It spit out some excellent options. I figure if I can afford the vacation, I can afford to lose that much - med/evac I can't afford. We also tend to not travel expensively anymore and prepay for very little. Now I have to insure everything to be covered which makes things much more expensive.

I understand your daughter is in a very rural spot, but it is still awful, horrifying, sad, disgraceful - whatever the word - that in 2016 significant numbers of people around the world don't have electricity. One of my grad school projects was about this in Zambia, but it's the same in too many places. Ok, back to regularly scheduled programming....

Anyway, don't be cautious in CT. It's a beautiful city - I just heard a lot of concern, probably from the typical fear mangers out there, about hiking up Table Mtn. If you have time, hike it but ask around if it's "safe". Like everywhere, use common sense and the country is as safe as anywhere. It gets a bad rap, but we've driven all over and only had one iffy experience - and that was my fault. The Cape of Good Hope, Seal Rock (where the seals swim the shark gauntlet) and the penguins can be one day. If you choose to, visit a township with a local guide. We used the HopOn HopOff bus to see a lot of the city with running dialogue. That way you can stop when you see something interesting and not have to drive in the city center. If you're into flowers, Kirstenbosch Garden is excellent. CT is in a bio-important area. We took one of the last ferries to Robben Island and watched the sunset over the city on our ride back. Beautiful. But it and Table Mtn are weather dependent - do them when the weather is good.

Instead of staying in Phalaborwa, stay in the park. Letaba is where we will be stopping for a night - they have many three person bungalows and generally good availability. Driving through the park is really great. Klaserie is very close to the Orpen Gate and you can make it to Letaba by late afternoon. They have restaurants and take out. Leave early and it won't be a problem getting to Pafuri on time. Just don't spend a lot of time at wildlife sightings, but don't speed. You'll enjoy the freedom and be blown away that they let us drive there!!

It sounds like your plan is coming together. I've been looking at flights and just a day one way or another changes prices drastically.

Just remember, you can't do it wrong. S Africa is wonderful and you'll love everything you do and see.

momlettinggo

Happy Easter. Our daughter got to town and got her batteries charged, and we could talk. Now more changes, which I understand. Although Pafuri sounded wonderful, she spends so much of her time being transported on Malawi roads, the LESS driving the more vacation. So Pafuri is off the table. And we're cutting back to 4 or 5 days in the area so that she can get back as needed. I found another walking safari location that looks good. I know you suggest more geographic contrast, but given her desire to spend less time in a car, and given that it near the Sabi Sands area, this is where we are leaning.

We could fly into & out of SKZ to JNB for less driving.

2 nights at Rhino Walking Trails Plains Camp/2 nights at the Rhino Post Safari Lodge.

In order to stay at the Walking Trails, we need to stay 1 night at the Lodge the day before. The 4 day package with 2 nights each makes it the more affordable comfort/adventure combo and there is literally no driving--staff will move our luggage and we walk back to the Lodge from camp. There are game drives at night but the emphasis, obviously is on walking, which interests us. (day and night drives during the Lodge stay)

My concern is that I think it is inside the park and the game drives will not be off road. And the game drives are going to be our best chance to see the Big Cats. We will surely see elephants and hopefully Rhino in Malawi. So we are looking for the broader diversity and the big cats--lion, leopard et al. These we won't see on walking safari and will rely on the drives to see them.

Our other option is their 3 night package 1 at lodge and 2 at Walking Camp and then 1-2 nights at Umkumbe which is very close by, if the off-road Private Reserve experience is our best chance at seeing the big cats. I hope there is little likelihood that we will go 4 days without seeing a Lion, but I am thinking we may not see leopard either way. I hate to stay just one night anywhere that is a true destination. I have to do that enough when the connections aren't right. But if we stay 2 days, it comes from the Cape Town leg of the trip which is already tight. Hence, if we can stay 2/2 at the same spot and get our walks and our luxury lodge in a package, that would be best.

This seems like the best of what all of us want, but I welcome feedback from this team. I'm relying on wonderful Trip Advisor reviews, but some of those may be novices who don't have the expertise and comparative knowledge I read here.

Thanks for all the input thus far, I've avoided so many mismatches to our budget and preferences thanks to these posts.

christabir

Have you considered Africa on Foot? Might be a good middle ground. (Fly in/out HDS). Bush walks (real ones) daily in the morning, game drives in the afternoon, excellent guides, excellent reputation, good wildlife area, private reserve. I recently met a ranger who had previously been at AOF and he loved "his" leopards - really missed seeing them at his new lodge in a different area of S Africa where the leopards were not yet habituated to the vehicles. AOF would be my first choice if they have availability.

Umkumbe is on a tiny area. I'm not sure you'd be happy there. Rhino Post is fine - you'll likely see lions and maybe leopard on a night drive. Cheetah are very rare in/around Kruger. They can go off road but only for very special sightings. It's a good policy - it's on public land. At private reserve lodges, they drive on roads 99% of the time. They only go off road - destroying flora and habitat - to follow a good sighting. In the current horrible drought they should be very careful.

Too bad about Pafuri. It's all tar roads to get there, but it is pretty far. Next time look into Serolo - they arrange the Mashatu walking safaris and have a tented camp, too - and Pafuri. Only three hours between them and excellent wildlife opportunities at both.

I'm not sure what you mean about no driving - every lodge will arrange a pickup at the nearest airport - and no handling luggage. Service is ridiculous at all of them. Rhino Post is not at the airport - you still need a transfer on tar and dirt roads. No driving required at any of them. I didn't drive in S Africa until my third time - transfers are readily available.

My first choice would be Africa on Foot, second would be all nights at Rhino Post/Walking. No need to move around in such a short time. Both will give you the walking and drives, plus unexpected luxury and great service. Both will exceed your expectations.

Happy Easter. I'm glad to hear your daughter got a charge and you got her input.

momlettinggo

We are also considering driving back to Johannesburg since we will arrive too late to catch the one flight to Blantyre. Another option is to rent a car at Skukuza and drive to Nelspruit (where we would spend the night) via parts of the Panorama Route--God's Window, Mac Mac Falls, Horse Shoe Falls, Sudwala Caves.

By luck, if we fly from Nelspruit we can connect with the JNB flight the same day (not possible from HDS or SZK). And I think I'd rather do a full day of scenic driving and stay one night at Nelspruit instead of near O R Tambo. I don't want to pay an extra night and skip breakfast and early am game drive to leave at 6 am to catch a 10:05 flight. So, does this seem a good plan? What's worth a stop and whats not, along the Panorama Trail in that vicinity?

momlettinggo

Thanks so much, Christabir. What I meant about driving was--the shorter the better. We know that we will need the pick up transfers, but even 1 hr. by road to a second camp and another 1 hr. by road back to the airport plus 1-2 hrs. more on our drive back to Johannesburg is what we were comparing. Less driving vs. more. So although I agree that Africa on Foot is on our "return list", we all like the look and openness of Rhino Walking Safari tents and the possibility of doing the "sleep out" in the raised platforms. Even in the cold of winter, they seem to get rave reviews for the experience. Probably need to be flexible on the vegan cuisine for that night, but I think that's the way we will go with Africa on Foot as our backup. Especially knowing that we will have 6 nights overall--4 here and 2 more in Malawi at Liwonde.

christabir

Now I'm really confused. No driving wanted, but now you're going to drive for two days Nelspruit, Panorama Route, JNB. Don't miss game drives unless you have no other option - makes for a very expensive stay.

If you stay near JNB you could do the Cradle of Humankind, Africa Museum or the Apartheid Museum. All are good, but CoH is a bit far and requires a car to do the museum and caves. We stayed there at the attached boutique hotel - might have been the best shower we've ever had. Anywhere! Great food, too.

I'm not sure about those sleep outs. I need a bathroom nearby - not sure how they handle that. We considered one at Shindzela but no bathroom (at the time before the major renovation) - not sure how Rhino Post does that. Don't worry about the cold. Tents don't have heat either and they supply hot water bottles. I sleep with the next day's clothes in my bed so they are warmish when I put them on and request a second hwb for my feet.

Your concerns were about game viewing - not the accommodations. If game viewing is your primary concern along with bush walks then AOF is a better choice IMO. If game viewing, bush walks AND accommodations, then I'm not the best one to help. I am always happy with a comfy bed, flush toilet, hot shower - inside or outside - and a wake up call (or knock). Even when in camp we are rarely in our rooms, and in June the days are very short so not a lot of time between game drives with all the time spent eating!

momlettinggo

As you said "If game viewing is your primary concern along with bush walks", I think much like you. That would be my priority as a solo or couple traveling. What has evolved in the last 11 days since I started this post is that other family members are getting clearer about their needs, and preferences. This seems the best compromise from my priorities, and actually when I factor in that my highest priority is to see my daughter, and have her relaxed and comfortable, then game viewing and bush walks come in second. She doesn't want to spend a full day or an overnight through KNP, as you suggested and I would have liked. She would prefer to stay 3 or 4 days in one place. We would like 2 different experiences and walking safari for 2 and lodge for 2 with game drives even right up the road is preferable to 3 or 4 days in one location for us. And a 4 day walking safari without anywhere else pretty much leaves out the opportunity to track big cats.

Hubby would like to drive and see a little more vs. being a back seat passenger for everything on his vacation--hence the loop of scenic spots near Nelspruit, but not the full drive to Johannesburg.

If we fly out after 4 days, we can't enjoy the final morning game viewing, and if we drive straight to JNB I'll feel rushed to catch the shuttle to the airport to pick up the car anyway, I make sure everyone's packed and ready. (In my next life I'm going to be a Father not a Mother.) And that's still the situation only worse if we add on another day at the lodge because now we are catching a shuttle for Nelspruit which is 3 hrs and we're leaving as the game drive starts. If we fly out of anywhere but Nelspruit, we have to lay over for 1 night in JNB.

But staying 1 night in Nelspruit after driving to a few spots on the Panorama Escarpment area on the one day is preferable to all. We're still up in Greater Kruger, and sort of makes up for the compromise to cut back to 4 days and one area.

This seemed like it would give us more of the outdoor beauty. I had looked up the Apartheid Museum but we couldn't make it there by air or car in time to get there before closing. And right now there is building construction and the Mandela exhibit is closed. Likewise, the 1 flight to Blantyre in the morning that we have to catch doesn't allow us to do anything but eat dinner in Johannesburg. Lastly, there is a long shot that our son may be able to join us for 2 nights in Cape Town and the first 2 nights in the Rhino Post Safari Lodge. Since we already have a separate tent/room for her both places, going this route keeps our options open for a full family partial vacation with no need to change anything at the last minute if he joins us. Just won't work out of Hoedspruit.

What we are considering doing is Sudwala Caves (almost as old as Cradle of Humankind) which is 35 minutes from Nelspruit, and 1 or 2 waterfalls along that route if we have time and its a clear day. What I often find when I plan a trip, is I overplan and over-schedule, but I can tell it's too much and needs to be pruned. When I cut something out to be realistic, I often find myself looking at the detour and finding things to do nearby I didn't know existed when I started planning. That's what happened here. Sure didn't plan to do the panorama drive under ANY circumstances, and only decided to drive the main route vs. flying when we saw the price and inflexibility of the flight. But when the opportunity to fly direct from Nelspruit to Blantyre in one day presented itself, we had either an extra night in Malawi or an extra night near Kruger. Now we're back to pruning because that Escarpment route is a long full day if you try to do everything, and we won't have but a 1/2 day at most as we want to get back to Nelspruit by sundown and avoid driving in the dark. I think maybe I'll leave this planning until I've got all the big pieces in place, and then post a new forum to get feedback on which 1-2 places on that Escarpment trail are the best sees if we only have 1/2 day.

momlettinggo

The pieces are coming together. As for the bathroom situation, Christabir, the sleepout is on elevated platforms and they have 2 bathrooms in the (shall we say, condo complex?), and even 2 showers.
http://www.isibindi.co.za/rhino-walking/sleep-outs.htm I asked after you raised the ? because it isn't on that webpage.

Since we aren't leaving early, we are driving in the afternoon to Nelspruit and we may or may not go to Sudwala Caves. A lot will depend on how well we sleep on the last night on those platforms. But we're game.

I'll eventually post a trip report on the experience. Now I am on to focusing on the packing, and so grateful for all the forum advice on what I will or won't need.

Thanks again, Christabir and everyone else for all the good advice.

christabir

My only advice is pack less. Take layers as it will be colder than you think. I would spend a night in Kruger at a rest camp instead of Nelspruit/panoramic route. Driving yourself around the Park with rhinos and lions (and so much more) is so cool.

Our trip came together, too. I can't believe we get to go back. Last week (on tax day) I found flights for $820 on BA with the BA credit card discount. Then we got availability everywhere we want to go! So we have 11 nights of wildlife viewing, our favorite lodge and Kruger. We are starting in Marakele NP on the way to Serolo in northern Tuli in SE Botswana. So excited. We are hoping to find the rhino we tagged a couple of years ago at Rhino River Lodge, also hoping the wild dogs are doing well. We have a few days for exploring retirement neighborhoods in KZN too.

Have fun! You're going to have a great time.

momlettinggo

So glad your trip has come together as you had hoped. And again thanks for the advice on my post and on so many more on the packing. I've seen that you have been consistent on the packing advice and the layering so I am now whittling down what I need/don't need/as I am making a stop on my return. Layers with double duty in mind is my new mantra.

After I get closer, I may need more advice, but for now, I'm glad to get past phase I and the big decisions/budget. But so much to still do to keep things going here while we are away as well as packing and banking etc.

Definitely grateful to be able to do it. Again, thanks, danke, gracias for this wonderful forum and the wise ones who share.

christabir

I started my packing list yesterday. We've always been able to do a couple of weeks with carry on only. Unfortunately they changed the rules and carry on is much more strict as of late last year. Due to a medical condition I've been able to take an extra personal bag which I used for real food and my med supplies - no more! I only get 1 personal bag and much smaller. Ugh. I hate to check as our bags have gotten lost so often. I have to rethink...

Pretty scarves, light costume jewelry if you need to "look great". Make sure everything matches everything. I don't do beige, so I take greys and drab greens, Slippers and a neck pillow for the hellish flight. I take gloves and earmuffs for those cold game drives. My husband takes a Pepto pill every morning and night to fight off tummy issues (he's sensitive to water changes - even just the next state over!). It's dry this year so I will take eye lubricant drops - the single use ones. Shorts or a casual skirt for hot day times. Swimsuit? For comfort on the bumpy game drives, a sports bra can be helpful for some of us.

Check with the airline about your carry on allowances. Don't check electronics, valuables or anything you'll need on the flight. So many flights now are chock full, so make sure you don't need anything in your carry on for the flight in case they need to gate check your bag. It used to be fun to fly.

Please thank your daughter for me. Her work is so important.

My pleasure.