Marksafari,

You mean having my bed rolled out on the deck of my room at Baines Camp (an A&K/Sanctuary property) and "sleeping under the stars" does not count for something? ;)

Hi Rocco,

Pleased to hear you are having a great trip and look forward to your report.

Two things -

I am not convinced that I would give up a gamedrive after 365 days in a game vehicle, regardless of how nice the room is!

Then I am wondering what ranger would let you be on the ground with wild dog, or perhaps I misread that. But being an agent, I don't get the relevance of that at all. I think many of the people here consider themselves serious photographers, though not necessarily professional. If I read it correctly, perhaps I have read it as though you are out of the vehicle and you are not, otherwise it sounds like Mad Mike and Mark, and to be getting so close that a juvenile dog gets that uncomfortable I thinks shows poor judgement by your ranger!

I am in agreement though with other vehicles being around, all heading off different areas and letting you know when or if something is found. I really want people to see what great gameviewing I have, especially if they appreciate it, so I don't really get I want the sighting to myself for as long as I want! I love it that other people see as much as me!

Kind regards,

Kaye

I can't help but think of zoo analogies. I think of two-way radios calling in other vehicles; then I think of the city zoo PA system announcing feeding time for the lions, and everybody heads in that direction.

I've said before that I believe Zoo-Africa is inevitable, unfortunately; I accept it as reality, though. That's the way things are and will be. The more people want vehicle teamwork to produce quantity and the more it happens, the closer the zoo comes.

I don't shun this sharing of sightings. There was an occasion which I've mentioned before. Three Selinda vehicles (one of them privately hired) were watching the three cheetah brothers resting on a termite mound, while one or two Kwando vehicles were standing by at a distance waiting their turn. That's a big undesirable crowd in my language, very, very unusual in Selinda territory. Suddenly the two-way crackled into life: the Selinda trails walking guide, with tracker and two clients, had spotted the gathering of vehicles and wanted to know if one of our vehicles had room for his two clients for a quick look at the cheetahs. They were at the end of their walking safari, and hadn't seen cheetahs so far. Well, as you can imagine, nobody was very keen to accede to the walking guide's request, especially the couple who had plenty of room in their private vehicle (and I don't blame them at all). At the very least, it meant leaving the cheetahs for a couple of minutes to pick up the two walking clients, and who wanted to risk missing something interesting? Well, I took the chance, told our guide that our vehicle was to do the good deed (I was leading a group), and we squeezed the walkers in and gave them a half-hour lifetime's experience. Fortunately, nothing exciting happened either when picking the walkers up or taking them back to their guide & tracker, otherwise the members of my group would have lynched me.

This was still an enjoyable experience, as were the many other times when I've been in gatherings of two or more vehicles at good sightings. But I would <i>never ever</i> trade any of them for the single vehicle sightings I've experienced...especially the day when my wife and I had the whole of Selinda camp (then a 12-person camp) and our guide Paul Moleseng and his vehicle to ourselves. Not another vehicle in sight, and complete and utter confidence that there would not be another vehicle. I don't think I will ever have a better day on safari.

John

To each his/her own, but I take no special pleasure in being the only one on a magnificent spotting. If anything, I think it is nice to be able to share the experience with others, providing the viewing is not compromised.

Case in point...for two of my four leopard spottings at Sabi Sabi, it was my guide (in my own private vehicle) who made the initial spotting. My guide waited until I was good and ready before announcing the leopard and allowing another vehicle in on the sighting. The other guests in the arriving vehicle were so thrilled to have this opportunity to see the leopard so it was my pleasure to share.

On the other occasion, the two of us had tracked the dominant male leopard of the area on foot for a good 45 minutes, largely in a dry river bed...at times with my armed guide up front and my tracker armed with a machete-like object behind. However, once we started getting too far from the vehicle, the tracker retrieved the vehicle and met up with us further down the river bed...once we established a clear direction the leopard was heading (and after his tracks left the riverbed) we hopped back into the vehicle and found the leopard just a few minutes later.

Although, again, this was a hard earned spotting, after I had the leopard to myself for an ample time, I was more than happy to allow other vehicles in and the other couple (who I would meet in just a few more minutes at Earth Lodge) were thrilled with the sighting.

I appreciate each and every time that a sighting is announced to one of my guides, and, in turn, I am more than happy to share any significant sightings we come across.

As far as the viewing of wildlife on foot goes, the guides are experts at assessing a situation. No guide is going to allow me to have a close encounter on foot with a leopard, lion, elephant, buffalo, hippo, crocodile or many other animals. However, there are times when a guide feels it is safe and I believe I have been on enough safaris now to keep myself out of harms way.

As far as the gamedrives go, I see no harm in skipping 1 out of 40 gamedrives. Sometimes it is the personal interactions with others at the lodge and the rest and relaxation that matter more.

&quot;If anything, I think it is nice to be able to share the experience with others, providing the viewing is not compromised.&quot;

It is nice to share. I've stated as much, and done as much. But c'mon Rocco, every sighting is compromised by an increase in vehicles. The only unknown is by how much it is compromised. You have no idea what might have occurred if no other vehicles turned up, although I agree there's a fair chance little would change in the case of very habituated, very relaxed animals...the zoo situation which I say we are heading for.

John

Yes, all viewings are compromised by other vehicles but none as much as the viewings to which you are not invited! :)

I will gladly trade a compromised viewing of a couple leopards and some lions in order to have far more leopards, wild dogs, more lions, etc.

I don't agree with the zoo analogy. No comparison between two or even three vehicles at a sighting and having non-stop pedestrian (or automobile bound) traffic. I can assure you that earlier in the day, at two separate sightings, when our Mateya vehicle was chased off the scene by an upset mother elephant, that it was far from being at the zoo setting.

Saying too much now and really should save some from a trip report, but my Little Kwara vehicle was similarly chased by a mother leopard and I mean we have to MOVE FAST as this leopard was nearly right on top of us and snarling very angrily until we left the scene.

Some of my best sightings would have never have materialized without cooperation with other vehicles, yet, yes, I have my fair share of unassisted sightings where there was nobody else to call in even if we had wished to do so.

It all boils down to a personal preference, but at the end of the day, I don't think anyone is going to turn down the opportunity for a fantastic sighting just because it was found by another guide/vehicle.

Hey Roccco - so glad you finally made it to Botswana and surrounds and that you had such a wonderful time. I'm looking forward to reading your future comparisons of these and other lodges.

Mark - does sleeping out in the bush on a four poster bed with mosquito netting, a room service tray and an armed guard count? ;-)

Ericka

My last trip to the Mara, we were out on a game drive and came across a mother cheetah and her two older semi-fuzz head cubs stalking a tommie. We kept our istance, probably the length of about 150 yards as not to interfere with her kill. We watched though, as other vehicles had no regard for giving the cheetahs any space.

As soon as she tackled the tommie, we moved in closer, still keeping our distance.

But within about two minutes, there were no less than 10 to 12 vehicles completely surrounding the kill, most of them with motors still running, loud chatter from the tourists, and people making noise to try to get the cheetahs' attention.

It was obvious the cheetahs were disturbed and nervous with all the commotion but were not going to leave the kill.

I was appalled at the guides allowing their guests to talk and make so much noise and also let the motors continue to run. I tried to motion to people to please be quiet, but to no avail, no one really cared.
I told our driver, who was also appalled at this, to move away until most of the cars/tourists had gotten 'bored' with the sighting and left.

I've been in similar situations in the crater. In the Sabi Sands, it hasn't been nearly as bad as in East Africa.

So for me, if I can get to a sighting and have it to myself for a little, I wouldn't think twice about being a little selfish. Just my opinion.

typo alert:

instance=distance.

Aargh!

Divewop

Where in the Sabi Sands have you had an experience remotely like the one you describe in east Africa?

John

Conservation relies on people caring, that's why documentary film makers like the Joubert's try and personalize as much as possible. While I can appreciate some aspects of your position, I would want as many people as possible to share the experience of seeing wild dogs, hoping that the experience of seeing such beautiful endangered creatures would lead them to be more conservation minded in their everyday lives.

Rocco - do you think you were able to approach on foot because you were an agent or a &quot;serious photographer&quot;?

Matt-
What I was trying to say is that I haven't had the kind of experience in SS that I have had in EA.
Yes, I have shared sightings there with 3 to 4 other vehicles but not anywhere near the numbers I've experienced in EA.

In the crater, it's frustrating but understandable.
It just really surprised me in the Mara. One minute we were alone and the next minute cars were coming from everywhere.
It was weird.

This was one of the huge factors for me in selecting Botswana for my first safari and a big reason I haven't made it to East Africa yet although learning more and being selective I think I will hopefully go to Tanzania in 2008.

I put a huge value on the exclusivity of viewing -- other than in Etosha I have never had more than 3 vehicles at a sighting and I have lost a couple of great sightings at the arrival of the 3rd vehicle even. The majority (about 85%)of my best sightings have been solo or limited to 2 vehicles usually with the second arriving a while after being called -- largely a function of the camps I select and time of year. I too want everyone to have great sightings and I have no problem calling in opportunities and responding to them although I much prefer to find things in my own vehicle and be first on the scene. I cannot stand places that have lots of radio chatter as it takes away from the feel of the bush and even with the silent head sets I have seen where it distracts guides and where it can both make guides lazy or allow them to keep a job when they are subpar because they can feast off someone elses skill.

In Madikwe (and I imagine the Sabi Sands) they have a rule limiting viewing to 3 vehicles which is great and in my mind preferable to the East Africa scene described above but the queing process definitely takes the sharing to a new level -- there is pressure to leave sighings after you have had a 'fair' time to view, if you object you are screwing up the system for others but by working with others you miss out on real behavioral observation.

Again, this is why Botswana remains the most attractive safari area to me -- large concessions with limited vehicles which ensures exclusivity of viewing and as much time as you want to spend with a sighting, and of course off road access! For me the wilderness feel adds a lot and like John my most incredible experience was being the only vehicle on the entire 30,000 hectare Duba Plains for 3 straight days. Sure we may have missed a couple of easy lion or buffalo sightings if another two vehicles had been out there but I gladly trade that for the indescribable magic of traversing this wilderness of lions, buffalo, and eles without a sight or feel of any other humans -- perhaps this is the 'old Africa' that Mark has recently been referring too but I can say no other time out in Africa has touched that feeling.

NapaMatt,

I was likely able to approach on foot (and I am talking within five steps of the vehicle) because I possibly APPEARED to be a &quot;serious photographer&quot; (in addition to being an agent).

Listen, on this trip, I have taken many photos, but more often than not, I have used the automatic setting on the camera and only when really settled on a sighting that was not going anywhere did I then switch to the manual settings. I just haven't been motivated enough to be too serious about my photography in the same way I was in Tanzania earlier this year. I am just happy to be here and my equipment will have to compensate.

As I tell anyone who is impressed with my equipment and confuses me for a professional photographer...I just point the camera and press the button and if I take enough photos some of them are bound to be keepers.

Back to the wild dogs, really, there was no danger...I have faced more aggression from my dogs at home (right before I kick some @$$) then I faced from this juvenile male wild dog. The rest of the pack (there were six in total) were relaxed throughout and it was just the one who seemed more curious than anything else.

Just returned from a very nice final night game drive at Mateya and wouldn't you know it...I just notched my FOURTH wild dog pack!!! :)

There were only two of them together and once the sun started going down they went off to hunt and there was no way to keep up, but it was a very nice surprise to see wild dogs. With the thick vegetation, I had no hope of seeing wild dogs and none of the other guides in the area had reported seeing them today.

Also, had a sighting of a brown hyena and that may be a first for me...even less attractive than the spotted hyena, poor thing! :)

Off to stuff myself with my final dinner in Africa...after breakfast this morning (American style pancakes with real maple syrup, danishes, salami, cheeses, omelette, fresh squeezed orange juice, etc.) I haven't been hungry the rest of the day.

Off to Australia tomorrow but this has been an amazing experience.

Hello everyone,

Just to put something right. When we are the first at a sighting, we always invite other people to share. I remember several times that we left an interesting sighting to help other people out (getting stuck,...) or invited people to join us in the vehicle because theirs was broke down.

I was just telling that in terms of photography it's easier to be the only one at a sighting because you can choose the angle you want and animals tend to be more relaxed.

Best regards,

Johan

I am with Johan 100%. I concur.

There was one sighting where there were 6 jeeps......but, we didnt even see each other at any stage at the sighting. All 6 jeeps were spread out in a wide open flood plain........the cheetah was hunting and we watched carefully from a distance without disturbing predator or prey. The only point when we even noticed the other vehicle's presence was at sundowners...i didnt care about the other jeeps at sundowneers. Infact i was happy to meet other people at sundowners and have a chat and discuss the sighting and how excieting it was!!! Infact i had a nice chat with OB (ex-Kwando guide, who now works for Selinda) during the sundowner stop....

Hari

P.S: I know this thread is excieting, but the whole of India is chatting about ex-India cricket captain Ganguly making a comeback to the India team for the SA test series......so gotta go!!!

Rocco, did you get photos of the brown hyena? I had hoped to see one (or more) in Kgalagadi, but I was unsuccessful.

Michael,

Jack's camp......awesome op for Brown Heyena. Only place i hv ever seen.

Hari

PS: I have never been to Madikwe

Thit Cho,

I was lucky enough to get a few photos of the brown hyena, although from a short distance. A couple of the photos are of good quality but nothing award winning. I didn't even realize they had brown hyenas here and then I saw something down the road that I did not at all recognize and it turned out to be the brown hyena...not five minutes after leaving the brown hyena it was the two wild dogs! :)

There are more elephants here than I would have ever imagined (just had a group of 20+ come and drink from the water hole in front of the camp that we watched during our boma dinner). Plus, the great thing about Madikwe is that both the elephants and the rhinos are not as habituated to the vehicles as, for example, in the Sabi Sand. Earlier today we were close to a youngster (probably 2 or 3 year old elephant) and when the youngster grew uncomfortable, it let out a cry to its mother who from 100 meters away came crashing our way so we were very quickly on our way.

There are plenty of giraffes, wildebeest and zebras and I even saw an oryx on our afternoon gamedrive, although it was quite shy and far from the road. Also saw an eagle I don't recall seeing before, a Wahlberg's Eagle? so another first. Really have not crossed paths with more than a couple other vehicles during the game drives (but, obviously, I don't know what it is like at other Madikwe properties).

Very warm weather tonight and I am so tempted to jump in the plunge pool (which is lighted) but I am too much of a chicken. It is a TREK from the lodge to my room and the last 100 steps were torture as I heard something that I believed to be an elephant, but really wasn't 100% confident that it was not a predator. Although the property is fenced, it is not the tallest fence and I don't figure it would take much for a predator to get inside (as a result of the fence, guests do walk themselves back to their rooms at night and the layout is almost like the rooms being built around kopjies (although it is really just a big hill) and from my experience earlier this year at Mbuzi Mawe in the Serengeti, I did have lions on my mind when I heard what I now believe was an elephant just outside the fence.

One more drive and then I am on a plane to Joburg and onto Sydney.

Clarification:

When I say I don't know how many vehicles are around the other properties, I mean I don't know how many vehicles are around the other parts of the park than where I have experienced my game drives. As far as I know, Madikwe does not have private traversing rights for each property the way that the Sabi Sand has for their properties.

Rocco: that's great you got the two Madikwe specialties in succession: brown hyena and wild dog.

You are correct that all lodges can traverse anywhere in the reserve (other than maybe immediately on other properities). I stayed at both ends of Madikwe and did not see too many vehicles either. Interesting that Mateya is fenced, neither of the properties I stayed at were -- game could wander through both of them.

Safe travels to Oz and home.