Duba Plains - Botswana + 12 Apostles Cape Town
 

Trip Report

NBO-JNB-NBO KENYA AIRWAYS BUSINESS CLASS
SANDTON TOWERS INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL
JNB-MUB-JNB AIR BOTSWANA ECONOMY CLASS
SEFOFANE
DUBA PLAINS CAMP
MAUN LODGE
JNB-CPT-JNB SOUTH AFRICAN AIRWAYS BUSINESS CLASS
12 APOSTLES HOTEL, CAPE TOWN

After a trip of a lifetime to Duba Plains Camp in June 2008, we had booked 9 nights this time only at Duba Plains by June 2008 for June 2009 for the two of us, plus a friend who is a professional guide in the Masai Mara in Kenya.

I will also write about our whole trip from Nairobi, including a stay in Johannesburg, Maun, and Cape Town, including flights and restaurants. I still need to download photos, which I will add later.

This report will be a day by day report of our experiences at the camp, what we saw on the game drives, about the staff at Duba, and what we ate.

I would also like to point out highlights from the trip (in no particular order):

• 2 full kills. We saw the stalking, the hunt and the kill!!!
• The talks at morning teas and sundowners. We talked about politics, culture, religion, Russell Peters, wildlife, birds, rites of passage, life, families, travel, and everything else under the stars.
• Meeting Linda & Greg & Denise & Anne
• Making new friends
• Seeing our Duba Family again
• Learning about birds (that is something old people do, so I guess I am now officially old)
• Getting a real insight into the lion behavior and trying to figure out why it is so different to lion behavior elsewhere.
• The storm, the rain and listening to baboons going to the bathroom on the roof of our tent.
• Being woken up by very loud snoring, only to realize it is the baboon in the tree above the tent.
• The meals.

Kenya Airways – Business Class
NBO-JNB 04 JUNE 2009
BOEING 737-800
J CLASS: 50% 8/16
Y CLASS: 80%
SEATS 1A 1C 1D
Flying Time: 4 hours

Check in:

Having checked in online the previous day, we arrived at JKIA at 6:00 am for a 7:40 am departure. Usually the airport is very busy in the morning. KQ flights all depart from Unit 2, but in the morning, the JNB, DAR and EBB flights depart from Unit 1. There was no queue at the business class counter, and we had our bags checked in and tagged through to JNB in less then 5 minutes. We cleared immigration and were airside in less then 10 minutes of arriving at the airport.

We did not use the lounge, as it is small and crowded, but headed up to Java Coffee House and had come strong Cappuccino’s.

Boarding:

Boarding was announced at 6:50 am. We had to walk down the stairs of the air bridge and then up the steps to board the plane. The front door was being used for rows 1 – 12 and the rear door for all other passengers. We had the first row all to ourselves.

Flight:

Once we settled down, we were offered a juice/water/sparkling wine (I had the latter. It is the Nederburg Sparkling, which is average). Newspapers were offered. There were already headphones in the seat pocket. The 737-800 has overhead screens. Seating in Business Class is comfortable seats 2-2 that recline around 55 degrees with adequate legroom. Menus were also distributed and our order for breakfast was taken.

Breakfast consisted of Yoghurt, fresh fruit, cereal, bread/croissant and a choice of either scrambled eggs with sausage or sausage with hash brown or some bean dish. I had the eggs, which were tasty, and substantial for the flight.

After take off (7:10 am – 20 minutes early), the breakfast service commenced. Tablecloths were laid out, and hot towels handed out. Then a tray of juice. Then the meal tray. The hot food was brought separately. There was a regular tea/coffee service throughout the meal.

After the breakfast trays were cleared, we were told that there was a bar service available at any time, with a choice of wines, beer, soft drinks, juices and spirits. About an hour before we landed, I felt it was right to have a couple of glasses of the Rupert’s and Rothschild red – a fantastic South African wine which would be appropriate before arriving into South Africa.

There was a duty free service. Throughout the flight, the cabin crew regularly checked on the passengers to see if they were comfortable. Service was excellent and very friendly.

Entertainment was overhead screens that showed the BBC News Service, followed by a movie and then some short comedy programmes. There was also a choice of around 10 audio channels.

We landed at 10:50 am, and after a long taxi, we were at the airbridge.

Arrival:

Johannesburg airport is now massive. There are so many immigration desks, that we waited less then 5 minutes. The staff were professional and courteous.

Even though our bags were tagged priority they took over 20 minutes to come. There was no one at customs, and we were out in a breeze.

Verdict

KQ offer an excellent J class product. What makes them better then other airlines is good service.

AIRPORT TRANSFER SERVICES
JOHANNESBURG

Before leaving home, I had emailed several airport transfer operators in Johannesburg, and got a very professional and positive response from Airport Express. So I went ahead and booked a return airport transfer from Johannesburg Airport to Sandton.

As there were three of us with 4 bags, I had advised them, and they booked a Quantam van.

When we arrived in Johannesburg, we saw a board with our name on it. We went to the driver, who told us that he will call our driver, and he will be with us shortly. We waited around 15 minutes (there are a lot of road works at the airport, so we did not mind waiting). When the car came it was a Toyota Corolla (the Quantam Van was still very far away). We managed to fit everything in, and had a pleasant ride to the hotel. We were then charged the same rate as the van, but did not argue.

I re-confirmed with the driver that we will be collected the next day at 6:00 am with the van for our return journey.

The next day, we were checked out and ready to leave the hotel by 6:00 am. By 6:10 am, there was no van, so I called Airport Express. We were assured the driver would be with us in 5 minutes. By 6:20 am – no driver, and the hotel staff were worried we might get to the airport late. They organised a Mercedes Benz (hotel car) for US$10 less then Airport Express and we left by 6:25 am – still no van.

I sent an SMS to Airport Express saying we had left and were disappointed with their services. No response. Even the hotel driver told us that some other clients have had issues with Airport Express. It was a very disappointing experience.

InterContinental Johannesburg Sandton Towers
June 2009
Corner Deluxe Room

Check In

This was a slow process. As we were checking in at 11:30 am, only one of our rooms were ready which was no problem. We were offered the password for free WiFi, but as we were on holiday, no lap tops, so no Internet needed☺

Room

We had booked a King Deluxe Corner room. It was on the 24th Floor of the hotel technically 14th, as the floor numbers commence at 10). It was slightly larger then the normal King Deluxe.

The room is one of the newer refurbished ones, but the furniture still looks like what was in the older rooms.

There was a walk in wardrobe on the right with a safe (not working), hanging space, and some shelves. On the left was a large bathroom with bathtub, separate shower, and separate toilet. The shower had excellent pressure. Amenities were a mixture of Elemis and Molton Brown. There were plenty of towels, and also bathrobes.

The bedroom was well portioned. At one side was a large King Bed that was very comfortable, with LED reading lights as well as normal reading light. At the other end was a huge plasma screen, L shaped desk with a work area, a Nespresso Machine, Kettle and mini bar. The tea tray included hot chocolate, different teas, biscotti, and biscuits. There was also a recliner chair.

The room was comfortable and the Nespresso Machine and Plasma Screen really set it off. There was an evening turn down service that included chocolates and bottled water.

Overall small things had been overlooked in the room, including no paper in the note pad holder, and a dirty cup.

The hotel is connected to Sandton Mall, so there is an excellent choice of restaurants, and shops to go to.

Check Out

As we were there for one night, we did not try room service, the restaurants, etc. Check out was also a slow process.

Verdict

An excellent hotel which is good value for money. I would definitely go again.

Air Botswana – Economy Class
JNB-MUB 05 JUNE 2009
ATR 42
Y CLASS: 90%
SEATS 4A 4C 4D
Flying Time: 2 hours

Check in:

We had arrived at the airport early, as we wanted to sort out our VAT refund. The BP check in counter was open, so when we went there at 7:30 am to check in for our 10:00 am flight, the check in agent told us that if we check in early, he cannot assure us that our luggage will be safe as the BP staff had not reported to work. He told us to come back after 8:00 am. I liked his honesty.

We came back at 8:15 am and waited around 10 minutes before we could be checked in. It was straightforward. We then cleared security and immigration, before heading to get the VAT refund. This was quick, as we had pre-registered at the Sandton Shopping Mall.

Boarding:

Boarding is via buses, and was announced at 9:45 am. We boarded the ATR through the rear door (I was excited that we had a forward row, so we would be able to disembark quickly). The plane is very new and configured all economy 2-2. The seat has adequate legroom and pitch. It was a fairly full flight.

Flight:

We were pushed back at 10:00 am, and after a short taxi, were air borne by 10:15 am.

The crew began with a light meal service that consisted of a focaccio sandwich with beef and cheese, nuts, and a selection of juices or water. After one hour they did a bar service that included nuts and a choice of soft drinks and jucies. This was excellent for such a short flight.

BP produces a very good magazine. The flight was very uneventful, and smooth. Service was very good.

Arrival:

We landed close to 12:00 pm. We were explicitly told several times to remain seated until we were instructed to disembark. We waited a full 5 minutes after the doors were open.

Immigration had 4 counters operating, so the whole plane was processed very quickly. The luggage “belt” is a desk. We waited around 10 minutes for the bags to come, and were out very quickly.

Verdict

With the new ATR’s Air Botswana offers a good service. The cabin crew were attentive and polite. It is a very efficient service.

Duba Plains Camp
Wilderness Safari’s Classic Camp
5th – 14th June 2009

Friday 5th June 2009

At the Duba airstrip, we were met by Rueben, who was going to be our guide for the next 10 days. Rueben had guided us in 2008, and it was great to see him again. In less then 5 minutes we were at camp, being warmly welcomed by Tebby and Maolosi both camp managers (Maolosi in the General Manager). As we were returning guests, we were taken straight to our tents, being advised we would be briefed at afternoon tea.

We had the two tents at the far end – 5 & 6. Number 6 is their “deluxe” tent, where the difference between that and the others is that it has a King bed as opposed to twin beds. It also has a huge lagoon that the outdoor shower overlooks. Otherwise, they are all very similar.

Each tent sleeps two, has a deck with two plantation chairs with a view over the delta, a large bed head with shelves, writing desk with chair and multi socket adaptors, twin vanity basins with cupboard space underneath, two cupboards with shelves and hanging space, a safe, 6 clothes pegs, and indoor shower and toilet, as well as an outdoor shower. They are extremely comfortable tents, and very adequate for safari. There is also tea and coffee making facilities.

So we unpacked very quickly, and headed up to the common area.

The common area consists of a star gazing deck with a fire pit, a raised common dining area, a lounge area with a bar, one guest toilet, a small swimming pool and an outdoor deck where brunch is served.

We were given the briefing over afternoon tea (mini ham/olive and mushroom pizza’s, orange cake, fresh fruit and iced tea/coffee plus an open bar). This year we were all given our own sippy water bottles that we could fill up at the water dispenser. It is a great idea, as it saves on wastage of plastic water bottles. We used ours religiously for the ten days, as did most other guests. We also met James who is another guide, and Bonang, another manager.

By 3:30 pm we were off on our first game drive. We were joined by Tshidi, who is the Community Welfare Officer (there are 5 villages that have populations of 500-1500 people between 50-60 km away, and they all benefit from Duba Plains Camp). She came out on a number of drives with us. We were told that the Tsaro pride had not successfully hunted for 4 days. That was exciting news. We headed out to where the lions had been last seen. The water levels were much higher then in 2008.

About 45 minutes into the drive, we approached the other vehicle (being driven by Mr. Rasta himself – Carlton), that was heading back to camp after a full day out with the buffalo. Lo and behold, guests from 2008 whom we befriended at Duba Plains – Linda, Greg, Anne and Denise were in the vehicle. We were all gob smacked that it was such a coincidence that we were at the same camp again, and this time we got to spend 4 fantastic nights with them. All 4 are such a good laugh, and we all had wonderful evenings and brunches talking (a lot of crap).

We soon fund the mega herd of buffalo. Estimates are when the herd is all together, there are between 1200 and 1500 bovines. There were a lot of calves this year. As the herd has become so strong, they now calve all year round, as the mortality rate per hundred is extremely low. The herd was well spread and relaxed, which meant that the cats were not near by.

We found part of the Tsaro pride. We were given a lot of information of what happened in the last year, which I will try and report as accurately as possible. The Tsaro pride is now being led by the Skimmer Male. He is the male for both Tsaro and Skimmer prides. The Tsaro pride is a bit disjointed. There are 9 females, who have all had their cubs killed by each other over the last year. 6 females tend to stick together. As they have been fighting with the other 3. The sub-pride of 3 females consists of Silver Eye (who looks very thin and scruffy. She has been in a few fights, and has a limp), and two other younger females). The 6 females seem to be a lot stronger, and include Machine Gun. Machine Gun had some very deep gore marks on the inside of her right leg, which looked like she had been in a fight with a buffalo. This bled for 3 days.

We watched the lion for a while and then headed off for sundowners. Ahh bliss. A beautiful sunset, lots of stories, a few red and white wines and spinach rolls with carrot sticks and a dip. What more can anyone ever ask for in life?

We were back in camp by 7:30 pm. This year we noted that the weather was a lot milder. We had brought huge Timberland jackets to combat the cold we had experienced in 2008, but found that this year it was much milder.

A few stories around the camp fire with some more red, and catching up with the Boston 4, and we were all asked to dinner. What I love about Duba is the communal dining. One big table for one big family. Every meal there would always be one manager and one guide who would join us. Sometimes the family would have a family member who may not be too nice/pleasant/friendly and it would create tension at the table, but the boab boab tree would come to the rescue (those who were there will know).

Dinner consisted of Pumpkin Soup (this rocked) with fresh bread rolls, then rump steak with an onion and potato bake, carrots and beans and a salad, pepper sauce and then a malva pudding. All meals are served buffet style and ladies and usually invited to help themselves first (more time for the guys to drink).

We were in bed by a civilized 9:30 pm. That night we heard a huge hippo fight, which actually sounded like a hippo being mauled (maybe the red wine), and at around 5:00 am lions calling out aloud.

Saturday 6th June

5:30 am wake up. Ahhh……oh yes, we are off on safari. Quickly out of bed, and into all the layers of clothes (it was freezing last year), quick coffee, and we waited on the deck for the guide on duty to come and get us at 6:00 am. He came at 6:00 am and off we went to the common area, picking up tent 5, 3, 2 and 1. Breakfast was wheat porridge, lemon muffins, cereals, toast, fresh fruit and hot beverages. The bar is always open. We had requested a more substantial breakfast, which we were promised would be served from the next day.

By 6:30 am we were on the road, driving, semi floating, and off in search of the mega herd. We had heard the lions a few hours earlier, so knew they were around. The morning was not too cold, not too much mist, actually 11 degrees Celsius.

We found the buffalos less then 800 meters from where we had left them the night before. The lions had been around, which means at night the buffalo did not move much. Instead they formed a very tight ring, with the young and females on the centre. We had seen the lions approaching the buffalo, so positioned ourselves, where we thought would have been strategic. After a 45 minute wait, we had not seen then, so drove back to where they were last seen, and tracked them, only to find out they had moved in front of us through the bush and were now behind the buffalo, cutting them off from heading towards the camp.

The buffalo crossed onto the other island, which is inaccessible by vehicle. We watched a fantastic crossing. The lions went across after an hour or so. Initially it was just 4 females, who through the shallow crossing were in single file, evenly spread out. The male came by later, and spooked a monitor lizard, who bolted so fast in front of the male that he spooked the male back.

When the females decided to cross the deep channel, they were very close together, and started to cross. Around 30 meters into the crossing, the lead female must have touched something on the river bed with her paw that really alarmed her and she did a fast u-turn that prompted all the females to turn back quickly. They thought it might have been a crocodile, but more then likely a log.

Eventually the lions crossed, which was disappointing, as we were not sure when they would come back to the area which we could access. Also if they killed on the other side, then they may not come back for 3-4 days. Alternatively, they could push the buffalo even further away, into Skimmer territory.

On the drive back to camp, we saw a side stripped jackal and a fish eagle.

Brunch consisted of pork, olive bread, coleslaw, pasta, cucumber salad, snow pea salad and cheese and fruit. Good food. All this was washed down with a few Saint Louis (local beer that is light but tasty).

We had afternoon tea at 3:30 pm. Today there was Bruschetta, Beef samosas ad Lemon Slice.

The afternoon game drive was much quieter. We found 3 female lionesses, just being themselves. We saw lots of birds, including a little bee eater. This year the swarms of quelias were not there.

We had sundowners (papadums and olives, with the usual wines), while talking, and watched the sun go down. As soon as the sun starts to set, the weather does become chilly.

The drive home had a mini astronomy lesson where we were shown the big dipper, and Southern Cross (we saw the milky way later that night). When we got back to camp, our fried – Dardley was back, and Maoloisy had left for his month long leave. We had a few drinks with Dardley and the other guests around the fire.

Dinner was an avocado fan, then chicken, a rice stuffed pumpkin, gem squash, beans and salad, and then the desert of the trip, an Amarula Panacotta. As usual fantastic meal. A few more drinks and it was bed by 10:30 pm, albeit a shouting match from tent 3, which was quelled by Tebby and Carlton.

Sunday 7th June

After an unusual wake up of hearing baboon droppings and watering on the tent roof, we were dressed and off to the breakfast area by 6:00 am. There was eggs, and bacon and sausages. Yes, now were talking real breakfast, not that stuff you feed to horses and cows☺ so we tucked into that and were off by 6:30 am.

We found that the buffalo herd had split during the night. There were some closer to the camp. Silver Eye and her sister had tried to kill a warthog, but failed (another vehicle had seen this). We had a great drive, sighting an aardwolf, the buffalo and loads of birds (Marshal Eagle, Harrier Hawk, African Gymongene and also another Harrier Hawk at a Woodpeckers nest, eating the chicks). Does that count as a kill???

We were back for brunch and beers. Beef Bourganian, vegetable skewers, potato wedges, beetroot salad, and the usual fresh fruit (papaya to die for. We used to fight at the table as to who would get it;) and cheese. Then it was off for a nap.

Afternoon tea was ham and onion muffins, chicken in filo pastry and a prune slice.

We headed back to where the buffalo herd was seen in the morning. They were still on the other side, and we hoped they might cross during the night. We saw Wattled cranes, White Faced Ducks, Pygmy Geese. Egyptian Geese and many other birds.

We had an early sundowner, as it was Greg x 4 ‘s last evening, so we had to put a serious dent into the Duba bar. Sundowners tonight were Cabbanosi and Billtong. We had a wonderful time, laughing and chatting and planning the Return to Duba Part III in 2010.

We were back in camp by 7:30 pm, and after a few drinks around the fire, off to eat once again. Dinner was Bruschetta, then roasted legs of lamb, studded with garlic, cous cous with dates, ratatouille, green beans, and salad, then a pancake with apple. During dinner, we heard the lions roaring. At 9:00 pm we heard the buffalo moving through the water (cool, we will be with them tomorrow).

As it was Linda and family’s last night, we had to stay up, and had to drink with them (with an emphasis on “had”). It was a great evening, and the lions gave us good roars at around 10:00 pm. So we were now scared to head back to the tents so stayed for a few more drinks (any excuse). I think we were in bed by 11:30 pm.

Loving your report--especially all the details. Like the comment about birds! I guess I can relate . . .

I am now in Kisumu on Lake Victoria writing this.

Monday 8th June

We were up before sunrise and having breakfast at 6:30 am. Our 4 Bostonian friends were leaving this morning, so we said initial goodbyes around the fire after breakfast. Jungle Oats and a hot breakfast later, we were off in search of the buffalo that we had heard crossing water the night before.

Just after the bridge, we came across the buffalo. They had crossed the channel and were heading towards the camp. We then found the three lionesses (Silver Eye’s trio), who were shadowing the buffalo. They looked like they had a kill (very small) the night before. They still looked hungry.

During our break for morning tea, we could see that there were clouds gathering, which for this time of the year is very unusual.

Back for brunch at 11:30 am and there was chicken pie, cous cous, and the usual plethora of salads.

Afternoon tea was something delicious, but I forgot to write down what it was. We were off by 3:30 pm to see if there was a hunt, stalking, kill, anything exciting. At around 4:30 pm the wind really picked up, and clouds got even darker and more ominous. The heavens opened up and it bucketed down. We headed back to camp, and we were surprised at how Rueben could drive, as the wind was pelting the rain into his face. But excellent skills, and wet clothes later, we were back at camp, where we proceeded to have our sundowners as we did not wish to ever miss out on an opportunity to use the sunset as an excuse to have a drink. By now it was very cold, and our jackets were really coming in handing.

Tonight was African night, which would have meant dinner and a fire in the Boma (this was an addition since 2008), but due to the weather, the fire was on the star deck and dinner in the dining room. For dinner we had rump steak, pap, pumpkin and salad. During dinner there was a lot of thunder and lightning.

We had new friends to make – 4 Canadians (Beth & Gary, Rick & Anne), and two Germans. At 10:00 pm it started raining very heavily. We headed back to our tents for a wet and windy night with thunder that was frightening, and we could see the lightning through the tent walls. We heard no animals the whole night, and this time I could not use the baboons as an excuse for the snoring noises.

Monday 8th June

We were up before sunrise and having breakfast at 6:30 am. Our 4 Bostonian friends were leaving this morning, so we said initial goodbyes around the fire after breakfast. Jungle Oats and a hot breakfast later, we were off in search of the buffalo that we had heard crossing water the night before.

Just after the bridge, we came across the buffalo. They had crossed the channel and were heading towards the camp. We then found the three lionesses (Silver Eye’s trio), who were shadowing the buffalo. They looked like they had a kill (very small) the night before. They still looked hungry.

During our break for morning tea, we could see that there were clouds gathering, which for this time of the year is very unusual.

Back for brunch at 11:30 am and there was chicken pie, cous cous, and the usual plethora of salads.

Afternoon tea was something delicious, but I forgot to write down what it was. We were off by 3:30 pm to see if there was a hunt, stalking, kill, anything exciting. At around 4:30 pm the wind really picked up, and clouds got even darker and more ominous. The heavens opened up and it bucketed down. We headed back to camp, and we were surprised at how Rueben could drive, as the wind was pelting the rain into his face. But excellent skills, and wet clothes later, we were back at camp, where we proceeded to have our sundowners as we did not wish to ever miss out on an opportunity to use the sunset as an excuse to have a drink. By now it was very cold, and our jackets were really coming in handing.

Tonight was African night, which would have meant dinner and a fire in the Boma (this was an addition since 2008), but due to the weather, the fire was on the star deck and dinner in the dining room. For dinner we had rump steak, pap, pumpkin and salad. During dinner there was a lot of thunder and lightning.

We had new friends to make – 4 Canadians (Beth & Gary, Rick & Anne), and two Germans. At 10:00 pm it started raining very heavily. We headed back to our tents for a wet and windy night with thunder that was frightening, and we could see the lightning through the tent walls. We heard no animals the whole night, and this time I could not use the baboons as an excuse for the snoring noises.

Sorry for the double post, Internet here is not fantastic.

Tuesday 9th June

So after a heavy night of rain and storms, we braved the 5:30 am wake up saying to ourselves it will clear up, and we will have a great day ahead. But it kept raining. We kept looking to the North, where the clouds cleared up, and then they came from the West. This weather was very unusual. We waited till 7:30 am. None of the other guests had emerged. So it was the three of us, and some staff who waited in the cold. After chatting to Rueben (who would never say no), we decided it looked clear enough to head off for a drive. We did not even make it to the bridge (about a 15 minute drive), when the rain became too much, and we were all brave enough to admit that it had defeated us. So we headed back to camp.

We waited in the lounge for around 30 minutes, but it was too cold, and miserable, so we headed back to the tents, and slept (ahhh a lie in was bliss) until brunch time.

Brunch was a heart warming lamb stew with cous cous, carrots, pumpkin and salad, Due to the weather, this was served in the dining area. All the other guests, except Beth headed out earlier, and we stayed behind, after our morning experience, to wait and see if the sun came out before we went. So we started on the sundowners/sun uppers early and had some of the good South African Red (we convinced ourselves that it would keep us warm).

At 3:00 pm we headed off, with Beth joining us. We met the other vehicle, and Gary joined us as well. They had seen the Male lion, so we went off to find him. What a magnificent sight he was when we found him. His mane was blowing in the wind, and he would have his head facing the wind. He was sight to see. We also saw two of the females, and the buffalo.

Later on, we saw Side Stripped Jackals, eating fruit from the Jackleberry tree off the ground (must have blown off the tree in the storm). We had a quick sundowner as the clouds had started gathering again. It started drizzling when we were close to camp, so we got back reasonably dry☺

Tonight there was a fire in the Boma, as the star deck was inoperable (those who were there know). We sat with Dardley, Bonang, Tebby, and Farahi (camp mechanic). They had some mopani worms which they shared (taste nutty and were crunchy. Good with beer). When dinner was ready, the usual courteous “Dinner is ready, when you are” announcement was made. So we took this literally and went for dinner when we were ready (encouraged by the managers we said as an excuse), but which time the Bruschetta had been served. We were in time for the real food – Roast Chicken, Risotto, gravy and mixed vegetables. OT the chef was serving tonight. Every evening the chef in charge will come and announce the menu (OT was very cheeky, and would always say that he is serving wildlife), and then decided whether ladies, or the gents would help themselves first. I had mentioned to Tebby the day before how much I had enjoyed the Amarula Panacotta. So desert tonight was a chocolate brownie, but Sola, another chef had made only for me the Amarula Panacotta. I was stuffed, but would not, and could not say no. Beth who was sitting next to me as eyeing the Panacotta, which I offered to share, but Sola brought the last one for her. It was sublime.

We were back at the fire, and a few reds later we were off to bed by 10:00 pm. The skies opened up by midnight, and it rained most of the night with huge claps of thunder, and lightning to match. We saw the next day that the water level in the Delta had risen by 120 – 150 mm. This was the highest rainfall on record in June.

Love your style of writing!

Meant to add my questions:
Did I miss the part where you describe how you got from Maun to Duba Plains?

You may be getting to it, but how did you feel about the length of time spent at Duba Plains? I found myself needing a rest after only four nights on safari.

Oh, were you warm enough in the tent at night? How did they heat it?

Great report with lots of detail!

Femi - you are so right. Gremlins with the Internet in Kisumu. Will add that post next. The tents were heated using blankets, body heat, and hot water bottles ;) It was actually qite warm once in bed.

Sefofane Air Safari’s
Maun – Duba Plains Camp (Okavango Delta)
5th June 2009
Cesena 208

As everyone on Sefofane arrived on the Air Botswana flight from JNB, there was a considerable queue to check in. It took around 20 minutes to check in. We then waited a further 20 minutes, before we were told we were leaving.

There is one security line at Maun airport, where all our luggage plus passengers go through, so this took a further 20 minutes. But hey, who cares – I am on my holidays and I love it. If it took an hour, I would have asked for a beer, but then we were airside.

We hoped on board the Sefofane golf buggy and were taken to our chariot – a Cesena 208. Our pilot gave us a safety briefing outside the plane (that was rudely interrupted by passing planes – how cool), and we were on board. 8 of the 12 seats were occupied.

Ours was the second stop, and it took around 1 hour to get to Duba. We were met by Rueben – our guide from 2008.

Wednesday 10th June

This morning, we woke to more rains. We learnt our lesson yesterday and did not get out of bed. Just slept in the warmth until around 7:30 am. The clouds from both the North and the West looked like they were clearing, so as experts in climate, we made the executive decision that it was time to go and have breakfast and possibly head out.

So breakfast was served, and while eating fat juicy sausages with scrambled eggs, bacon and toast, the clouds were clearing, and we were happy. And then the clouds came in from nowhere, the heavens opened up heavily and the cold set in. So what to do with a full belly and cold wet weather? Surf the web – no Internet. Watch a movie – no TV. Listen to music – no radio. So we went back to sleep☺ At 11:00 am we were woken up by Rueben, asking if we would be coming for brunch. Of course, I told him, like I was hungry again.

So brunch today was in the dining room, and we had beef steaks, potato salad, pasta with cheese, horseradish sauce, mixed vegetables, Chinese cabbage salad, and other salads. Food was excellent, but all the guests were in very edgy moods, having been cooped up for a few days. Come on, did the camp staff not know we had all paid zillions to come on safari and now we had bad weather? We laughed so much at remarks we were told that had been made by past guests – Can the Delta not be diverted to the desert so there is less water at Duba? What was the Impala doing in the tree when the leopard killed it? And many other silly (quirky/naive) comments.

At 12:30 pm we made the brave decision to head out for a drive. What a drive it was going to be. We headed out west, and came across 5 Bat Eared Fox’s. It seemed like all the animals were out after the rain. Then 2 Side Stripped Jackals. Today there were lots of Red Lechwe in the water. It was great to see them run and then jump as they moved away from us through the water. There were also large numbers of Tsesebe.

We eventually found the buffalo (look for the flying Cattle Egret, and Ox Peckers), and very nearby were three lioness (Silver Eye and crew). The lionesses were spread out around to sides of the buffalo. The lionesses were very disjointed and looked like they were not working together at all. One would decide to move, and the others would continue sleeping/resting. Then another one would see an opportunity and move, and the others did nothing. This lead to a Warthog coming into view of one of the lionesses, and she attempted to stalk it, but with no help from the other two, she was seen by the Warthog, which meant her cover was blown. By now this lioness had moved closer to the buffalo, of whom quite a number were grazing in the water. She saw this as an opportunity, and kept looking back for where the other two lionesses were. They joined her around 5 minutes later. Now they were working together. They identified one female who was on the edge of the swamp, and they started to stalk her. Some of the other buffalos saw the cats and alerted the whole herd. There was a stampede of bovines, as they tried to clear the water. The really interesting trait that the Duba Buffalo have developed is that they know they can fight or attack the lions. As long as the majority of the herd has moved, and are protecting the young, there are always a few bulls and older cows who will turn around and attack the lions. This is what happened, around 4 bulls and cows turned on the lions, pushing them back. They would charge, and then retreat, at which stage the lions would turn and try and attack. It was quick, and the cats retreated.

Meanwhile. We had earlier seen a female buffalo head back on her own to where the whole herd had moved from in the morning. We had suspected that some of the other 6 females had killed her calf, and she was looking for it. From where we were, initially the buffalo were heading to the left side of a swamp, but instead turned around, and then tried to head up on the right side. They had made considerable progress, but with the lion attack, they had turned around. The lone buffalo was not aware of what had happened, and headed straight to where the lions were. We were in luck. The lionesses picked up her scent as the wind was favorable to them. They were down low, waiting for the cow, and as soon as she was within 7 meters, the attack was on. Silver Eye was on the cows back, but was being shaken off. Remember she has a permanent limp, so was much weaker then in her prime days. She was holding onto the side of the buffalo, claws in, working her teeth, when another female jumped on the back of the buffalo, which allowed Silver Eye to come off, but as she slipped off, the buffalo turned around and tried to gore her, which Silver Eye saw and avoided. The buffalo lost her rear grip and with the weight of the cat, she fell. This allowed the third female to rush her neck, and grab her throat. Now it was a melee, with the lionesses working simultaneously looking for weaknesses in the buffalo and taking advantage of doing serious damage to the soft areas, including the inside of the rear legs, suffocating the throat, biting down on where the tail meets the spine, and on the snout. Out of nowhere we saw a large bull run by (actually with a bit of a limp), and we thought he might try and help the female buffalo, but as he looked injured, he might have been weak, so all he wanted to do was save himself.

From the time Silver Eye attacked to the time the buffalo was on the ground, it was 30 seconds. It took a further 20 minutes for the buffalo to stop making any noise and move. All the noise during the struggle would have traveled far. We were so elated with what we had seen – a classic Duba Kill.

We watched for around 10 minutes, and with our adrenaline levels so pumped, decided we would head off to find a sundowner spot, and celebrate what we had seen. We crossed one of the channels, when we saw a fourth female heading towards the kill. This would be cool, if the 6 females and male would head to the three and with all their personal tensions, and a fresh kill, there might be some interesting action. Then we saw a three more females heading as well. They all looked like they had been running through water. So we headed back to the kill. The sun had already set, and it was dusk. There was a lot of hierarchical nonsense going on. The females that had not been involved in the kill had dominated the kill, and were around the soft points of the buffalo, while Silver Eye’s trio were either at the hard bits, or chased away from the kill all together. Now it was dark, and the spot light came on. First time in my life, I felt like I was on a National Geographic Stage where you see ferocious lions fighting under spotlight over a kill, with all the gory sounds. Only difference was that I felt cold, and could smell the buffalo’s stomach. This was a million times better.

Now we had to head back, as dinner would be waiting for us. Four other guests watched the kill – Rick/Anne (Beth and Gary had gone), and a French couple who had been at Duba for less then 3 hours (now they could say to their friends – Duba, you only need to go for one night and you will see a kill).

Back at camp, it was drinks all around and stories to tell around the camp fire. Dinner was fresh buffalo steaks………hey hand on, I am not OT the chef, t was pork chops and vegetables and salad (see I cannot remember detail, as there were better things to remember that day), and some chocolate thing. Then off to the fire for a few more tales, and drinks. We went to bed that night on top of the world.

Thursday 11th June

The weather had improved, so there was reason to get up at 5:30 am, including the lions to see, and buffalo to watch, and birds to learn about. After chocolate muffins and the traditional English breakfast, we were off at 6:30 am.

After a phenomenal previous day, we were happy to just drive around and see what we could see. We drove to where the kill was the previous day, and came across the carcass, and not much else. The lionesses had all cleared off, and Reuben believed that they had been fighting. We saw the usual suspects – Red Lechwe, Tsesebe, and birds – lots of them.

Back for brunch – bbq’d chicken, pumpkin salad, cabbage salad, grilled polenta, and cheese and fruit platters. These platters are kept in the middle of the table and weight around 608 kg each. They are huge and laden with around 6 types of fruit (papaya, oranges, apples, pears, melon, bananas), and 8 types of cheese. Fresh fruit, smelly cheese and a sauvignon blanc are an ideal pre-nap combination. Also a hot shower in the outdoors adds to the sweetness of a one hour nap.

In the afternoon, we had the afternoon tea on offer - mini pizzas and some boboatie. Then off to wander around and see what we could find. There was not much in terms of action, but we were happy to mozzy around. Sundowners were had with cheese straws and wine. The weather was much warmer.

Back to camp in time to make sure that we still had places around the camp fire, and that not too much red wine was sampled without our presence. Dinner was lamb stew with samp, mixed vegetables, salad, and pineapple pancakes. We were in bed by 10:30 pm.

Friday 12th June

After devouring the usual suspects for breakfast, we wanted to see some action again. So off we were, driving through water, past Marshal Eagles, and Fish Eagles, and Wattled Cranes, and Egrets, Ring Necked Doves, and Saddle Billed Storks, and Egyptian Geese, and White Faced Ducks, and the list goes on.

We came across a honeymooning couple of felines. It was the skimmer male and a female who had lost (they were killed by another female) a few weeks earlier. It looked like they had started their mating ritual the day before. He was so attentive with her. He would not let her move away. What was bizarre is that normally the female initiates the mating ritual (is a 5 second romp a ritual? Some of us male species think so), but here, it was the Skimmer Male who would initiate the ritual. 5-7 seconds later, the female would growl, he would jump off, and she would be on her back, legs in the air rolling around contently. We watched this a few times. We decided to drive around a bit and see if the other females were around, but Reuben pointed out marks n the track where you could see lion paw prints. He explained that it looked like there had been a fight between the lionesses, and they had headed off in different directions.

We found the buffalo. They had crossed onto no man lands, where both the Tsaro and Skimmer pride’s territory’s overlap. We did not want the Skimmer pride to push the lions into their territory, as we could not get across there. In fact we were driving around less then 20% of the total Duba concession, as we could not access the rest due to high water levels, and no reliable crossing points.

Back to camp for a fish finger, spinach filo pies, and lots of salad for brunch. Then nap time.

Mini Pizzas for afternoon tea with iced coffee and we were off again. We really wanted the buffalo to cross back. They were content on the other side, and had spread out, which indicated that they felt they were safe. The lions were still where we had left them in the morning, and were pleased with their life of mating.

We decided to head back home slowly. We saw Spotted Hyena, African Wild Cat, Civet Cat, Genet Cat and some Bat Eared Fox’s. A really full drive home. Something to brag about to the other guests☺

Dinner was Pumpkin Soup, Rump steak with a potato bake, green beans, carrots, salad and a steamed ginger pudding. In bed by 10:30 pm after making sure the fire still existed.

Saturday 13th June

What morning is this? Do we live permanently at Duba? Would we want to? I would love to be here all the time. What we did not know this morning when we woke up at 5:30 am, wanting an extra 5 minutes or 5 hours of sleep, was what was in store for us today. So the usual routine of wake up, get dressed, wait for the breakfast escort, pick up guests on the way to the mess area, have breakfast and try to leave before everyone else. At breakfast, one of the guests was having a whinge about how he had been on safari more then 80 times, and this was going to be his 12th drive t Duba, and he had never seen a kill. Hey I travel more then 80 times a year, and I have never been upgraded (can you be upgraded beyond Business Class is a 2 class aircraft?) So what dude, enjoy what you are seeing, and when your time is right, the animals will give you a show that you will never forget. So we were off at 6:30 am.

We headed out to where we had seen the honeymooning couple the day before. We found them, and they were still in their star gazing, lovey dovey state. However with them were three other females near by. We first saw Silver Eye, on her own, and then her two companions around 120 meters away. Due to the tension among the females, the Skimmer Male is the only one who keeps them all in line, so Silver eye and her friends find some level of protection having him around.

The Buffalo had not really moved overnight. They were still on the other side of a deep channel that we could not cross. After a while the two females moved away, heading towards where the buffalo were. We went to look for them after less then 10 minutes, and they had disappeared. We looked in all the bushes, and the palm thickets, and we could not see them at all. They must be hiding inside the thick palms. We knew they were heading over to where the buffalo were, so would not loose them in the long run. Silver Eye, nor the honeymooning couple did not move.

We drove around the bushes to get a better view of the Buffalo, and stop to have our morning coffee and biscuits, as well as the long political/cultural/life chats. We saw three female lionesses resting in very strategic positions on the other side of the channel, a bit away from the Buffalo. Our two were not there. After around one and a half hours of chatting and drinking – coffee I might add, the buffalo started moving towards us, looking to cross the channel. The lionesses had “disappeared”. We then saw them in strategic positions near the buffalo. The buffalo would not move if they saw us, because they now associate vehicles with lions, So we hid behind some bushes, and waited. We could see through the branches what was going on.

The buffalo moved and all of a sudden there was a surge toward the water. The crossing had begun. The channel would have been atleast 3.5 meteres deep, and it was an awesome sight watching them cross. We estimated there were around 900 of them. This was a spectacle, and as special as watching the Wildebeats cross in the Masia Mara. As soon as 2/3 of them had crossed, we repositioned ourselves, so that we could see them cross better, and also had a more open view of where the lions were.

There were around 20 buffalo left to cross, when we saw the lions emerge, and go after a calf. A couple of the bulls and cows tried to ward the lions off, so they retreated, and a cat and mouse game started. Within 40 seconds, the lions had gotten hold of the calf, and the buffalo moved back, as some crossed. The mother of the calf tried to go and save her baby, but the lions attacked her as well. One female jumped on the back, while the cow tried to keep them off her, and try and save the calf at the same time. There was a lot of movement between the lionesses and the calf (who by now was not moving much), and the mother. The cats brought the cow down, while one of the females had already started eating the calf. Within a few minutes of the calf being caught, the Tsaro females (around 6 of them) had managed to subdue the mother bufallo. By now the rest of the buffalo herd had crossed. The lionesses tucked into their brunch.

We then saw Silver Eye on the other side of the channel (same side as the kill), as she must have heard the commotion. She could not see the lionesses, and would walk, then stop to listen and smell. She did this and went straight past the kill. The closest she would have been would have been around 150 meters. She kept going and disappeared into the thicket. We did not see her again.

We decided to go and look for the other cats. We saw one of the females emerege from the palm thicket, and head towards the chanel, so we drove back to where we were originally positioned. She came upto th edge of the channel, and was a bit nervous. She kept looking around, and then at the females with the kill. Eventually she decided that she could not see any danger (i.e. crocodiles), and crossed the chanle (not the deep part), waded through reeds and was on the other side at the buffalo buffet.

We then saw the mating female come, with the male not far behind her. They came in front of our vehicle, and were lookimg on the other side of the chanel to where the kill was. She seemed even more on edge, while the male was happy just watching her and following her. She waited quite anbit, before she walked off up the channel, looking for a crossing pojt that maybe looked more safe to her. The male follwed very slowly, stopping often to sniff the ground, and at one point he started licking the area where she had urinated earlier. Meanwhile the female found a very clear part on the crossing, and started to cross. She was in very deep (around 2-3 meters), and swam across fast. As soonas she was out, her pace picked up, and she was with her sisters feeding. The male had by now lost sight of her, and then saw her on the other side of the channel, which probably confised him. He now kept sniffing out her trail, so he could cross, and he lost it, found it, lost it, found it. Eventually he got to the edge of the channel and crossed. It was a magnificent site watching the Skimmer Male swim in deep water, and come out on the other side with his mane wrapped around his neck. He too joined the females, sort of ouching them away.

We had such a phenomenal morning. It was now time to head abck to camp, as we had to eat again. We were back by 2:30 pm. The dude who had a whinge at breakfast was asked in the middle of the drive if he wanted to jojn us, as his vehicle had to go back to drop guests at the airstrip. He was too worried that he wuld miss a meal, so headed back with his vehicle. Mate you would have seen a kill.

Brunch today was celebrated with beer and white wine. Hang on we do that everyday……so I had to have more. There was pork, and pasta with cheese, lots of slads, including a beetroot salad, cheese and fruit. We had a quick shower, a mini pack up, and were back to head off for our final sundowner game drive at 4:30 pm.

We had all agreed that we wanted a drive near by. Reuben had a surprise in store for us. He took us to the Mokoro Station, and did a short punt for us, with our Masai friend. Then our friend had a go, which was very cool for him. He managed a good 80 meters and DID not fall. I was so waiting with the video camera to get something for Funniest Home Video’s. He let me down.

We saw 8 Southern Girffae, - the first giraffe the whole trip. They are resident around the airstrip as they feel safe here. They were beautiful creatures, so graceful and elegeant.

We had a long sundowner with hundreds of brirds flying home to roost. It was our last sundowner at Duba, so it was sad. We had now had 9 sundowners, and some damaged livers.

Tonight the fire was at the star deck. Miraculosly we did not need to use the Boma any more, so we sipped and laughed around the fire, surrounded by water, gazing at the Milky Way.

Dinner was Pumpkin Soup, Roasted Chciken, with rice, mixed vegetables, salad, and an apple tart tartin.

Tonight we stayed up till 11:30 pm. It was our last night, and there were some red wines that had our name written on them (or was that the sippy bottles that had our names written on them?)

Ah, RWA, it's Linda of the Boston4. Very jealous you got to see 2 kills after we left. We had a wonderful time at Tubu Tree, despite the rain - if it's possible, the food is even better there (thanks to Gladys, who Anne swears she knew in a former life).

The day before you arrived at Duba, we saw Skimmer male and one of his females attack Silver Eye. It sounded horrific, was over in about 12 seconds, but somehow Carleton was able to see that, for the first time, Skimmer male partcipated rather than protect Silver Eye. Glad she finally got to eat, and that the male is looking out for her again.

Great report - can't wait to see the photos!

Sunday 14th June

This was our last morning. It was sad to get up and go to breakfast. We really dragged our feet. We were 100% packed and had left our bags in the tent. We were off on our last game drive by 6:30 am. We were joined by Spike, who was a new guide at Duba.

This morning we saw unusual number of Red Lechwe. It was like seeing Impala or Zebra in the Mara. We managed to find 2 of the females at the site of the kill. They were walking away from where we were, and we saw another two of the lionesses. There was not much activity with them. They were full and ready to rest of their huge meal.

We decided to look for the Buffalo. They were near a deep channel. After around half an hour, they crossed the deep channel. It was wonderful seeing the calves negotiate the channel as easily as the adults. The crossing lasted around 10 minutes. Once the buffalo were on the other side, we had along morning tea, and managed to polish off all the biscuits.

On the drive back to camp, we saw some hooded vultures near where the female lionesses were, and also some jackals.

For brunch, we had a beef stew, potatoes, beetroot salad, and other salads. It was a good brunch. Dardley and Rueben had both joined us with Bonang. All of a sudden, there was a gathering of the staff by the pool. They came and sang the most wonderful goodbye song to the three of us. It was very moving and touching. They welcomed our stay, and said they were loosing a family. I nearly cried (might have been the onions in the salad). The radio squawked that the pilot was ten minutes away. I prefer quick goodbyes, so lots of hugs and kisses (and I think a few tears) later, we were back in the Land Rover heading to the airstrip.

As we were clearing the airstrip of giraffe, there was a message over the radio that we had left a bag behind. Dardley rushed off the get it. I am not sure if one of our party had left it behind on purpose, so that they would ‘have’ to go back to Duba the next day to get the bag.

The plane was in sight, and it was an Airvan today. We were onboard in no time, and heading off to Chiefs Camp before final flight to Maun.

The flight back was uneventful. Not really much to report.

Trip Report
Maun Lodge
Maun, Botswana
June 2009
Riverview Deluxe Room

Check in

We were collected at Maun airport by the complimentary Maun Lodge Shuttle. It is about a 15 minute drive from the airport.

Check in was straight forward. The reception area has complimentary tea and coffee and water for residents.

Room

The Riverview rooms do have a view of the river, but it is not too pretty. You can see lots of reeds, and industrial type development on the other side. Also lots of donkeys and goats. Not the sort of view you would want to sit down and have a sundowner drink to.

The room itself is well appointed. I would rate it a strong 3 star hotel. There was a queen size bed with blankets, a TV with DSTV (Satellite), empty mini bar fridge, tea and coffee making facilities, a cupboard, writing desk, bedside tables, safe (was locked and despite asking reception to have it unlocked, it was not done) and a decent air-conditioning unit.

The bathroom is small, with a corner shower (screen leaked badly), toilet and basin in a vanity.

For one night, the room was adequate.

Hotel

The hotel has a bar that faces an inner courtyard (not the river), a restaurant with river views, and a pool with its own bar. The facilities are basic.

Breakfast was a decent buffet with good service. There was a choice of hot and cold dishes, and decent coffee.

Verdict

Good hotel for a one night stopover. Good value for money.

Air Botswana – Economy Class
MUB – JNB 15 JUNE 2009
ATR 42
Y CLASS: 15%
SEATS 4A 4C 4D
Flying Time: 2 hours

Check in:

We arrived at the single check in counter at Maun airport at 8:00 am for our 10:00 am departure. It was a straight forward process. I asked for seats at the back, but was told there was a light load today, and we had all been assigned seats in the middle of the aircraft for balance purposes.

We went to a coffee shop outside the airport, across the road, it was very good, with a good breakfast selection, and a decent cappuccino.

Boarding:

We went back to the airport and cleared security, immigration and customs at around 9:30 am. The incoming aircraft could not be seen. The departure lounge is small, with 2 toilets. At around 9:45 am, we were advised the flight would be delayed 30 minutes. Eventually the incoming aircraft came at 10:45 am. We commenced boarding at 11:15 am. At least we had been told we would be delayed.

Flight:

There were 12 passengers on board. We took off at around 11:30 am (90 minutes late).

Service was different to the incoming flight. All we got was nuts and a drink. The staff were surly. The rest of the flight was smooth, and uneventful.

Arrival:

We landed close to 1:30 pm and had a long taxi. We were explicitly told again several times to remain seated until we were instructed to disembark. We waited a full 5 minutes after the doors were open. We were bused to the terminal. Many passengers had connecting flights, and were not sure if they (or their luggage) would make it.

Immigration was very quick. We waited close to 30 minuets for our bags to come. Some passengers were jumping up and down about their connecting flights. We were chilled. Our connecting flight was at 3:00 pm to Cape Town, and if we missed, it, we could always take the next one.

Verdict

It was a good flight. Nothing exceptional.

Hi Linda. Good to hear you guys are back in the US, and had a great time eating.....oh and the safari as well. The three of us had a drink each for the 4 of u, every evening at sundowners, and an extra one on the days of the kill, and an extra one on the days that we ate breakfast.

Will email you re 2010.

Mahul

South African Airways – Business Class
JNB-CPT 15 JUNE 2009
Boeing 737-800
J CLASS: 25% Y CLASS: 70%
SEATS 2A 2C
Flying Time: 2 hours

Check in:

All South African Airways flights, including domestic have a common check in area in Terminal 2. There were quite a number of priority desks, so no queue. Our luggage was tagged, and boarding passes issued.

The security area to the domestic departures is still at the far end of the building, so it is a long walk to get there. We were through in less then 10 minutes and up to the SAA lounge.

The lounge is large with adequate seating, and computer work stations. It overlooks the runway and apron area. That is all that is great in the lounge. The food and drink offerings are very average, with a full service bar (4 guys huddled in one corner talking). There is a choice of school sandwiches (white bread, crusts cut off, very thin), soft drinks, beer and wines. It was a disappointing lounge.

Boarding:

Boarding was via an aerobridge. We were seated quickly. There is no pre-departure drinks nor towel service. We were offered the local newspaper.

Flight:

Seating in J class is 2-3 across. You would not want to be stuck in the middle J class seat. We were airborne by 3:15 pm.

There are overhead screens which show some comedies and promotional videos on South Africa. There are no headphones, which was disappointing. We were offered either a cheese or chicken and cheese toasted Panini, and bowl of fruit. The sandwiches were pathetic bread masses with little filling. The wine was average, but we managed 1.5 bottles on a two hour flight (got the rest of the 2nd bottle to take home).

Service was not bad. Our glasses were constantly topped up. Rest of the flight was uneventful.

Arrival:

We landed at around 5:00 pm. There were buses waiting. As usual J class had to wait for the bus to get full, before we left fro the terminal. Surprisingly our bags were already on the conveyor belt when we got there.

Verdict

A very average J class service. I would not pay money to do this again, nor would I recommend it to anyone. The lounge in JNB is just a waiting room, while the flight is a glorified economy trip.

12 Apostles Hotel
Camps Bay
Cape Town
June 2009

Airport Reception

On arrival from Johannesburg, we were met at the arrivals hall by a smartly dressed man who had our name on a signboard. After introducing himself, he took the trolley, and took us outside to where the car (Mercedes Benz) was parked. He loaded the car up, and we were off to the 12 Apostles Hotel. On the drive, he was chatty, and asked if we had been to Cape Town before, suggested places to visit, including restaurants. It was an easy 40 minute drive to the hotel.

Check in

Check in is done seated. We were asked what we wanted to drink. They suggested a juice, glass of sparkling wine, glass of wine, tea/coffee, water, etc. We opted for some sparkling wine.

It was explained to us that there were several reservations made at the hotel restaurant – Azure for us (we had some dinners included as part of the package), as well as some spa treatments (again part of the package). These had been made, as the spa and restaurant did get busy,

Check in was quick, and we were escorted up to our room – an ocean view suite.

Room

The room was on the 1st floor (the hotel has many levels, as it is on the side of a hill). There was a long entry foyer with a chest of drawers. To the left was the bathroom and bedroom, and in front the lounge area and balcony.

The bathroom was large and well lit. What made it seem even larger was the fact that all the walls were mirrored. There is a separate shower, a bath, twin vanity, bidet and toilet. There were lots of towels, and two sets of robes. Toiletries are Charlotte Rhys, and were packed in large bottles. The bathroom was very clean, and well maintained. Throughout our stay, it was always well stocked, and kept very clean.

The bedroom was not huge. It had a king bed that was very comfortable, with a pillow menu. There was a single chaises lounge, and two wardrobes. I felt that the storage space was not adequate enough. If we had hard cases, there was nowhere to place them once unpacked. There was a lap top size safe, shoe cleaning clothes, laundry bags, etc. The bedroom overlooked the lounge area, and had a Sony Plasma screen, as well as a DVD player. The view through the lounge was a panoramic uninterrupted view of the Atlantic Ocean.

The lounge area was large. To one side was a round dining table with 4 chairs. In the centre was along sofa and coffee table. On the other end of the dining area was a large plasma screen with DVD player. If we sat on the sofa, we had to watch the TV on an angel (but had full ocean view). We decided to rearrange the lounge so that we could comfortably sit and watch TV. Below the TV was a long cabinet that housed a mini bar (well stocked), a vanity mirror (odd place to have it), tea/coffee making facilities and some books/magazines.

The balcony had two chairs and a table. The view was stunning.

The room was well appointed, and well furnished. It was air-conditioned (one unit in the lounge, and one in the bedroom). Services included free popcorn and hot chocolate for when you watched a DVD from their extensive DVD library. Lighting was good for the various rooms, as was the climate control and soundproofing.

I felt that they had inappropriate types of glasses in the mini bar (not enough water/wine glasses), the tea/coffee set did not have saucers to put dirty tea spoons or tea bags on, not enough drinking water was given, for a suite we were given fruit only once, no flowers (except a gorgeous fresh orchid).

I have read reports where people do say the room are noisy due to the traffic from the road below. I would agree. It was noisy early in the morning, and late afternoons with commuter traffic. There is nothing that can be done, but enjoy the view, and wine on the balcony, or keep your doors closed. We got used to it fairly quickly.

Service

This is what was exceptional at the hotel. There was not enough that the staff could do for you. Service was very genuine and warm, not fake like you get at hotels in Dubai. Concierge service was second to none. These guys knew what they were talking about when it cam to restaurants. They recommended some sensational places including La Colombe in Constantia, Myoga at the Vineyard Hotel. On the Tuesday night of the 6 restaurants we wanted to go to, 5 were closed. Ashley the concierge made reservations at 3 restaurants, printed the menus, brought them to the room, and then let us decide which we wanted to go to.

There were some obscure requests made to the concierge (where can we get ear candles, where can we see vintage cars, where can we get a camera cleaned, etc.) and all of them were met so quickly. To save us time, the ear candles were brought to the hotel.

The hotel provided an excellent car service. They have a fleet of Mercedes Benz, and the drivers (guides) were extremely professional, courteous and knowledgeable. There is a free service to the V&A Water Front, as well as the city. The evening we were dropped off at Myoga, the driver came in, told the concierge who we were and where we were dining, and also ensured that the concierge knew to organize a car back to The 12 Apostles for us. I know that there are commissions involved in the concierge business, but these guys made us feel so special in a very genuine way. They truly cared. We used the cars everyday to the various places we wanted to go to. One day we had to collect a very expensive camera that was being cleaned, and asked the driver if we would take it back to the hotel for us, while we went shopping. He took it back, gave it to the concierge who gave it to security, and it was placed in the hotel safe. There was a note in the room letting us know where it was, and to contact them to have it brought to the room.

On our last day we went to La Colombe Restaurant in Constantia. Wow…the food was to die for. Service was sensational. We lunched for 4 hours and had a great meal. However we had asked if we could get the car service to take us to a couple of wineries before lunch, drop us at La Colombe and pick us up when we were done. We were collected by a gentleman called Mr. Sammy Adams. He was the epitome of gentlemen. Mr. Adams collected us from the hotel, gave us a map, showing where we would be going, and gave us the most amazing tour to the first winery. He had grown up in the region (I would say he was 60 years old), and had a first hand experience about life there, including the apartheid era. I am not much for touring, but this experience is one of those once in a life time memories for me. We had such a good time with him. He would stop the car and show us some of the most weird, and wonderful things. He came into the wineries with us, and gave us a history on each winery. He dropped us off at La Colombe and asked us when he should come back. We suggested after 2 hours. He did come back, and he waited until we were ready. Mr. Adams is usually based at The Mount Nelson Hotel.

At the hotel, all the staff knew us by name, which was special. They were all very friendly and genuinely cared for how you were doing.

Dining

Every morning we had a room service breakfast (one day I called 15 minuets before the desired time and asked if it could be delayed 1 hour – no problem). If you are on a bed and breakfast package, you can have breakfast in the main restaurant, or pay the tray charge (US$4), and have it in your room. It was a very good breakfast, and well delivered and presented.

We ate at the Azure restaurant one evening. Food was not amazing, but service and the ambience was good.

We had room service one evening. Again the food was not exceptional, but good, and well presented.

There is a plethora of restaurants in and around Cape Town, so the hotel makes a good gastronomic base.

Facilities

The hotel has a spa, outdoor pool, and walking trails, as well as a movie theatre, gym, bar, conference facilities, and helipad.

The spa was good, but not great. The common areas are not huge. There is one Jacuzzi with little pressure, and not very hot. One small cold plunge pool. One very small Dead Sea pool. One sauna, and two open showers. There is a relaxation room (you can hear the pool pump). The treatments were good, although my treatment lady tried to sell me products after a massage (I just dazed at her and she left me alone). I have seen better spas in South Africa.

The walking trails are great. The hotel can organize a picnic for you up a trail. The pool was heated, but it was too cold for us to use it. They provide mini bottles of sunscreen, magazines and lots of towels by the pool.

Check out

The evening before we left, we were asked if we wanted a picnic breakfast (we were due to leave the hotel at 6:30 am), a gourmet food box for our flight, box of moist towels, and a whole host of other things, if we had our own car.

Check out was very quick, and we had an excellent car service to the airport. There was a porter waiting for us, who took us to the check in desks very quickly.

Verdict

An excellent hotel. What makes it exceptional is the service. It is very genuine, and warm. There is not enough that the staff can do for you. I would definitely go again. This was the second visit in winter. I am not sure what the hotel would be like in summer (it would be a lot busier). I would recommend it to my friends as a great place for a pampered get away.

Warrior - less of the old and birds :D

Duba Plains sounds truly wonderful. When I get back to Botswana, it will be on my list. 9 days seems like a fantastic amount of time to be in one place.

While I am glad that on my first trip I got to experience a wide variety of Botswana, not moving around sounds like it definitely has its attractions.

Thanks for all the detail.

amy

Will we get to hear about your Cape Town activities?

agswimmer

All we did in Cape Town was eat, shop and relax. We have been there many times before and done all the touristy things.

We did some shopping at the Waterfront.

We dined at The Roundhouse, Myoga, Cape Fish Markets, La Colombe and Azure.

RWA

RoadWarrior, or in this case maybe CharterFlightWarrior,

Your Duba report should send bookings through the roof, or the tent posts, or whatever, disturbing the snoring and urinating baboons up top. Tremendously exciting.

Femi,
Funny you should mention being worn out after 4 days. It was a good kind of worn out, but so was I after 4 days. However I "put in" 12 hour days in the August heat. Not as hot as Oct, but still requiring a short snooze midday, stretched out on the seat of the vehicle.

Back to RoadWarrior,
After about 5 days, I'm sure you did feel like you lived at Duba. That's a nice part about extended stays. You get into the rhythym of things and start to see the area from the animals' viewpoints.

I got a kick out of the comments you shared about diverting the delta and the impala in the tree. I appreciated your account of pride dynamics even more. So much cub killing going on there and from your comments it appears that Silver Eye is not the sole culprit. Glad to see some Skimmer blood coming into the pride.

How lucky you got to see one of the very rare giraffes at Duba!

On to your next stop...

South African Airways – Business Class
JNB-CPT 20 JUNE 2009
Boeing 737-800
J CLASS: 12% Y CLASS: 60%
SEATS 2A 2C
Flying Time: 2 hours

Check in:

The driver from 12 Apostles dropped as off at a very eerie looking Cape Town Domestic Departures terminal, and immediately called for a porter. The porter took us in to the check in area. For SAA there are two premium desks, and about 15 domestic desks. We were checked in, in less than 5 minutes, and off through security to the lounge.

The SAA domestic lounge is large, and very similar to the one in JNB. There was a choice of tea/coffee, and cappuccino’s. Food offerings were muffins, crisps or fruit. Again, a very bare lounge. There is a separate smoking room within. We were in the lounge for 15 minutes, before our flight was called.

Boarding:

Boarding was via buses. Jammed on a very full bus, we headed out to our plane, on a very crisp and fresh morning. They were only using the front door, so it was a mess getting on board. We were soon seated, waiting push back.

Flight:

This morning, we were served a hot breakfast consisting of eggs, bacon, tomato and hashbrown, as well as bread, and fruit. It was a good Economy class meal. The usual comedies were shown on the overhead screen with no audio. Service was acceptable. The flight was smooth, and we landed on time.

Arrival:

We parked at a remote stand and were bused to the terminal. We waited around 15 minutes for our bags to appear, and we were out soon.

Verdict

As I said before, a very average J class service. I would not pay money to do this again, nor would I recommend it to anyone. The flight is a glorified economy trip.

I learned about ear candles from your report. You may be the only person who has ever put ear candles and vintage cars in the same sentence. The concierge is probably still reeling.

Again, thanks for your detailed and glowing account of Duba. I don't want to seem like I am dwelling on the negative by mentioning this one fact you gave, but here goes because it was such an eye popping fact:

Only 20% of Duba was accessible during your visit? 80% inaccessible, if I do my math right? I had always known that parts of the concession were often not reachable by vehcile, but 80%? Did they say this was unusual due to the rains? Regardless of the percentage, you had plenty of time with great lion buffalo activity. Thank you for any light you can shed on the 20%.

Hey atravelynn. Thanks for the feedback. We were told that they had unusually high water levels which left large areas inaccessible. Both Dardley and Rueben mentioned access to around 20% of the concession. There was no movement (less then 1 km) behind the airstrip.

Last year I remember traveling longer and farther distances. Trying to again next year:)

You've been designated the role of Duba Historian. Thanks.