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Dilemma: Quickest way to see best of Garden Route?

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Dilemma: Quickest way to see best of Garden Route?

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Old Sep 26th, 2006, 05:53 PM
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Dilemma: Quickest way to see best of Garden Route?


We are honeymooning in S. Africa May 2007, and due to difficulties with BA and (resultingly) our budget, we are absolutely locked in to a May 4 arrival and May 17 departure, which is 2 days shorter than desired. Our top priority is safari, so we've recalculated as follows:

3 nights Capetown @ Cape Grace
1 night Tsala Treetops
3 nights Franschoek @ Quartier Francais
1 night J'burg
5 nights Singita

Here's the problem - we've been advised that it's a 6 hour drive from Cape Town to Tsala, which hardly seems to merit one night (although I am rather enamored of the treetop idea). We are committed to not reducing the nights at any other location. Any ideas for how to best get a quick peek at the Garden Route?
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Old Sep 27th, 2006, 04:18 PM
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Hello,

To be honest, I'd recommend dropping the Garden Route from your itinerary and spending another day in Cape Town. Getting to and from it for a one-night stay is IMO much more hassle than it's worth, and will not be inexpensive either due to the need for a couple of internal flights.

If you want to keep it in the picture, I'd strongly recommend swapping LQF and Tsala Treetops in your itinerary -- LQF is about 30-40 minutes from Cape Town, and going from Cape Town out to the Garden Route and then back to Cape Town for a one-night stay will be a first-class pain in the bum. If you can't rearrange this, my advice would be to drop the Garden Route entirely and do another day in Cape Town.

Assuming that you can do Tsala after LQF and that you feel that the Garden Route is a must-do, I'd recommend flying from Cape Town to either George or Port Elizabeth. If you fly to George, it will be a somewhat longer but IMO much more scenic drive, heading east towards Tsala Treetops. Depending on how much time you have, you could take the Outeniqua Tjoe-Choo from George to Knysna, then pick up a hire car in Knysna and drive through the lovely Tsitsikamma National Park to Tsala Treetops. If you're pushed for time, drive from George -- the train takes a beautiful winding scenic route but is not speedy. Either way you'll pass through Wilderness National Park.

If you are very pushed for time, fly into PE and drive west along the Garden Route to Tsala Treetops. This is a shorter drive but IMO this end of the Garden Route is not as scenic as the George/Knsyna end.

Cheers,
Julian
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Old Sep 27th, 2006, 04:20 PM
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Hello,

Sorry -- forgot to add that after your stay at Tsala Treetops you would need to drive to PE and fly to Joburg (assuming you have swapped LQF and Tsala).

Cheers,
Julian
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Old Sep 27th, 2006, 05:18 PM
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Thanks so much, Julian. (You always seem to come to the rescue!) My fiance basically said the same thing as you - he'd rather drop Tsala entirely. So, we are going to add an extra day in Capetown (@ the Cape Grace) and do a day trip to Cape Point area instead of Tsala for a "scenery" day, then head to LQF for a lovely 3 day honeymoon pkg, then to J'burg for an overnight into Singita - 3 nights at Boulders and 2 nights at Lembobo. Critiques?
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Old Sep 27th, 2006, 07:16 PM
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I think the town of Franschoek gets rather boring after visiting the few touristy shops.

And LQF was a rather crowded place to stay with no privacy.

It may be better to stay on a wine estate outside the town or elsewhere in the Boland with better views and more privacy!
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Old Sep 28th, 2006, 02:49 AM
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Hello Abcdc,

Glad I could help -- I think you've made the right choice, and your trip will be much more relaxing. The winelands themselves will be beautiful at the time of year you'll be there...it will be autumn and the leaves will be turning colours in the vineyards.

I think 3 nights at Boulders and 2 at Lebombo sounds great, though personally I might plump for Sweni instead of Lebombo as I love smaller camps and personally prefer something a bit less modern.

If you love wine and food, you'll love Franschhoek. I expect you'll be spending much of your time visiting wine estates rather than in town.

I stayed at a wine estate outside of town the last time I was there, and strongly preferred being in town to being outside -- it's much nicer not to have a long drive home after enjoying all that great wine!

Eben, I hadn't realised you'd managed to find your way down south -- when were you last in SA? I visited LQF in 2004 and found it to be a lovely place. It's an inn rather than a hotel which does mean that you are less insulated from your fellow guests -- personally I like that aspect of staying at smaller places, but it may not suit everyone. LQF has opened a new villa called Quarters which is great for people who want additional privacy.

Cheers,
Julian
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Old Sep 28th, 2006, 03:47 AM
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Julian

I was born in Cape Town and I grew up in Mossel Bay. My family still lives along the Garden Route. I lived in Stellenbosch for many years and I still own property there. The wine country is my other home.

I visit South Africa at least once a year for extended stays - I don't feel the need to write trip reports of every place I visit!

I stayed at LQF more recently than you.

My opinion about LQF is just that - an opinion. Especially since I am aware of some rather nice honeymoon places in the wine country. Others may and will disagree and that's just fine.

BTW, Tsala Treetops is west of Plet and only 50 minutes by car from George. It is a much longer drive from Port Elizabeth.

How did you enjoy your stay at Tsala?
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Old Sep 28th, 2006, 05:06 AM
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The main lure of LQF for us is two-fold; one, we've heard nothing but raves about the food. Secondly, they have a 3 night honeymoon package, as follows:
Includes bottle of Méthode Cap Classique on arrival,
Le Quartier honeymoon gift,
selection of handmade Belgium chocolates,
sunset cocktails with a view,
6 course tasting menu in "The Tasting Room" with matching wines,
dinner at our informal restaurant "iCi" including a bottle of wine,
breakfast at Le Quartier on two mornings,
one breakfast at "delicious" where the locals like to meet,
The Môreson experience; wine tasting, lazy lunch and a bottle of Pinehurst wine,
Lunch at La Petite Ferme including wine.
Two full body massages in the privacy of your luxury room / suite,
a romantic bath with a bottle of cold bubbles,
wine tasting on horseback,
service fee.

which we thought sounded like a great way to spend a couple lazy food and wine filled days before heading to safari. We are really passionate about food and wine, hence the appeal.

However, I'm curious what you mean by "lack of privacy?" I understand it's a smaller property, but on our other travels, even small properties of a certain caliber made us feel like we were the only ones there. What is the story at LQF?

As always - thanks so much!
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Old Sep 28th, 2006, 06:17 AM
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When we visited in 2005 LQF had different kinds of rooms.

We stayed in a luxury loft room in the courtyard. The rooms all opened into the courtyard with a pool in the middle. Good for exhibitionists but not for someone shy like me!

I was surprised at the size of the place. At least a dozen rooms or more. It was full at the time so people were coming and going including the restaurant patrons who strolled into the courtyard to check it out. Touristy IMO.

I think it is quite good for 1 night. I don't know about 3 nights.

There are some really nice places out in the country on the wine estates. Most have chauffered cars if you want to visit the restaurants in town and drink. Personally, I prefer to drink out on the wine estates instead of in town!

Food was good, except there are some really excellent choices elsewhere in town.

The question is, which room is included in your package? That could make a difference.
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Old Sep 28th, 2006, 06:46 AM
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I believe it's the same as you stayed, a luxury loft.

Could I bother you for the names of some of the wine estates and restaurants you would recommend?
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Old Sep 28th, 2006, 08:01 AM
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We LOVED our stay at Le Quartier Francais.

Granted, we were there with our kids (around ages 8, 9 at the time) - but we had a marvelous time. From being met in the car park area, to being taken directly to our room, to being brought 2 lovely glasses of wine (Sprites for the boys), to the heated floors, and the wonderful bathroom - it was a winner all the way.

While the pool area may not be very private (since all the rooms around us opened onto it), we had a wonderful private patio off of the room which allowed us some peace and quite - and privacy!

Breakfast at LQF was great - altho a litte "more adventurous" than our kids would have liked. I don't think we did dinner there. We had lunch at La Petit Freme (a wonderful, wonderful experience for all of us), and I honestly don't remember where else we ate - other than a really small hole-in-the-wall pizza place about 3-4 blocks from LQF that was GREAT (remember - we were with kids!).

You'll love the Cape Grace...they were so good with our kids!!!

My husband has been to Cape Town many times on business and our trip there ws in 2003, but we are going again this coming December! Can't wait!!!!
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Old Sep 28th, 2006, 09:03 AM
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Oh boy! There are so many choices!

I am not a travel agent so I don't keep up with the newest and greatest finds! When we visit we tend to go with the recommendations of local friends and family. Our last visit was about a year ago and we are going back this December.

So I just don't know who or what is hot in town at this time - but I will tell you in January!

I can give you some names of romantic places I know in great locations in the area but we have not stayed at any of them so I am hesitant.

Right now friends are telling us to stay at the Villas at the Country House (with a private dinner in the cellar). But I don't know.

Selwyn and other locals always give good advice about findings in the area so I would yield to them.

Here is a pic of our luxury loft room from last year. It was nice, but it had a strong smell coming from the plumbing in the bathroom.

http://www.go-safari.com/images/carol3jpg.jpg





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Old Sep 28th, 2006, 10:55 AM
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The room does look nice, thank you for sharing that. I think I've given myself quite the headache (albeit a good one in a way) trying to get this sorted out - started wondering if we should stay in Stellensbosch instead ... I think we may stick with LQF and try to roam around the area as much as possible. We will have a car - I assume Stellensbosch is quite close as well?
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Old Sep 28th, 2006, 02:16 PM
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Hello Eben,

I loved Tsala -- I think it's worth a two-night stay at least! Definitely a place I have on my potential honeymoon list. I think 2-3 days in Knysna and 2 days at Tsala would be a great way to see the Garden Route.

Of course you're right about Tsala being closer to George than PE. I took the Tjoe-Choo and then drove onwards so it felt longer than the straight drive from Tsala to PE, but if you drove both it would be different.

I stayed in a suite when I was at LQF, which may have accounted for the difference in our experiences. It also wasn't full when I was there.

I love tasting wine on the estates and definitely agree that doing this is vastly preferable to tasting wine in town. I was thinking more in terms of driving back after enjoying multiple wines with a multi-course dinner.

Hello Abcdc,

The LQF honeymoon special look very nice, and includes some very good restaurants (Le Petit Ferme is a particular favourite of mine). You may want to look into getting a suite at LQF and getting the best of both worlds.

Stellenbosch is a lovely town as well. It's a college town, with all that that implies -- lots of nice cafes and lively student nightlife during term. Personally I prefer Franschhoek for its proximity to so many great restaurants, but it's a matter of personal taste.

Cheers,
Julian
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Old Sep 28th, 2006, 05:36 PM
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Abcdc,

Firstly may I wish you well on your future wedding and congratulate you on deciding to spend your honeymoon in wonderful South Africa.

In terms of your planning I have to agree 100% with Julian when he advised you <b>not</b> to go to Tsala for an overnight event. That truly would have been madness. Thus I am pleased that you are changing plans for this part of your itinerary. The question of course remains as to how you are now going to change your itinerary. Reading what Julian and Eben have been telling you it is obvious that everyone has their own personal choices and will advise you accordingly. I to have my personal choices however the one difference between what I am going to tell you relative to all is that please bear in mind that I visit the towns and establishments that you are speaking of in professional capacity up to twice a week. More important is that I view places not for my own personal benefit but for the benefit of others so I take many factors into account such as quality, value for money etc etc relative to all else that is available. Thus without wanting to tread on the toes of others here are my thoughts.

I would <b>never</b> recommend staying or for that matter dining at LQF. My reason for saying this is not because there is anything wrong at LQF it is just that there are so many other places in Franschhoek that offer equivalent if not better value at 1/2 to 2/3 of the price. A classic example is if one had to stay at Plumwood Inn (http://www.plumwoodinn.com/) which is right next to LQF. The class of Plumwood Inn, especially since it has been renovated, is as good if not better than LQF. More important is that a room at Plumwood would cost you R900 to R1150 per double whereas at LQF the costs would be R2700 to R5000/ room for 2 people. Believe me quality wise the two venues in terms of accommodation are equivalent. The major difference between the two venues is that LQF adopts an attitude of massive glitzy marketing while Plumwood Inn takes a very low key marketing approach and passes it savings on to its visitors. In the same way there are quite a number of other places equivalent to Plumwood Inn in Franschhoek I have stayed at most places in Franschhoek inclusive of LQF and I have to agree with Eben’s experience especially with the rooms all facing onto the pool area. Amongst others I did not enjoy my stay at the venue because of this structure.

With all of the above said please don’t suddenly become scared of staying at LQF because I am quite sure that you will more than likely enjoy yourself at the establishment. All that I am saying is do not become caught up in marketing costs when choosing anywhere to stay or dine. With that said even though there are rave reviews out there about the food at LQF I think that <b>relative</b> to what else is available in Franschhoek LQF is a total rip off and I never suggest the venue to my visitors.

With the above said it seems as if you are already locked into a LQF booking so my suggestion is that if this presents too much trouble to change keep it, after all I say again you will enjoy yourself there, just don’t walk over the road and take a look at other places as you might feel as if you are being ripped off.

In terms of your itinerary I would suggest that you do not spend 3 nights in Franschhoek but rather 2 nights in the town and two nights in Stellenbosch. There is so much to do in this town. There are some fabulous places to stay in Stellenbosch and if I could offer a suggestion I would suggest that you stay at De Oue Werf which is very central in the town (you wont need your car on your first day), a fabulous place to stay and top class quality accommodation. http://www.ouwewerf.com/ I am also quite sure that you if you split your 4 days between the two towns you will be able to obtain a much better impression as to what the area holds for visitors overall.

Side note:
Julian - The Outeniqua Choe Choe is not in operation because of the recent floods and washed away rail lines. It also seems as if it wont be in operation for at least the whole of 2007.

Abcdc sorry for being so blatant in my response and here’s hoping that you gain something from what I am saying; as a matter of fact if you wont fall for the concept of well marketed places vs excellent quality and good value places that are not heavily marketed then my writing would have been well worth the effort.

Just my twopence worth

Very proudly part of the wonderful nation of South Africa



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Old Sep 29th, 2006, 01:41 AM
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Hi Selwyn
Glad to hear you're a fan of Plumwood as that was one of my discoveries in Franschhoek back in 2004 - that and Bon Vivant which I know you've come to love too!

ABCDC, I think you've already decided that a single night in Tsala Treetops would b madness.

Personally I'd opt for 5 nights in Capetown and 2 in Franschhoek - the extra time in Cape Town would allow you to explore the peninsula and the town itself very well. Alternatively, I'd make it a 4:3 ratio. I don't think I'd go for 3 night CT, 2 in Stellenbosch and 2 in Franschhoek - that prioritises the Winelands above Cape Town and to me, that's the wrong way round. The winelands are beautiful but Cape Town has so much diversity to offer in terms of what to do that it definitely merits a longer stay.
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Old Sep 29th, 2006, 08:09 AM
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Hi all -

Yes, Tsala is most definitely out (sadly - I don't think I've quite let go of the treehouse idea, but I suppose that's what return trips are for).

Thanks to everyone for your recommendations, the candor is quite appreciated. (Although Selwyn - I am a marketing manager by profession! ;-) ) I think my fiance and I have to sit down and have a good long look at the budget and our priorities, and then sort it out from there.

Nonetheless, it would seem that we could hardly go wrong in terms of the experience we're in for, and for our honeymoon ... that's the most important thing!

Cheers!
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Old Sep 29th, 2006, 09:36 AM
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abcd

Another idea is to give yourself some flexibility!

You booked the Cape Grace and Singita and the night in Joberg. That's good.

Keep the rest of the days open! Just hop in your rental car and explore the winelands. When you see a place you like, stop and spend the night(s). There are many, many excellent route maps and other tour brochures that you can gather while at the Grace to help you plan your next moves.

May is a perfect time to freewheel in the Western Cape!
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Old Sep 29th, 2006, 09:38 AM
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Oops, I misspelled Joburg! What do I know? I am from the Boland!
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Old Sep 29th, 2006, 12:37 PM
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Hello Selwyn,

Sorry to hear about the Tjoe-Choo -- I loved that little train. Hopefully it will be back up soon. Oddly enough I jsut had a meeting with some people from SA Tourism and even though I mentioned the Tjoe-Choo no one said anything about this!

Have you visited the suites at LQF? From what you and Eben have said it almost sounds as if we stayed in two different places.

I like D'Ouwe Werf as a place to stay, but I found the modern restaurant tacked onto the back rather disappointing. The food was rather undistinguished and aesthetically it felt very out of place in the lovely old inn. What was particularly bad was how one of the staff walked around with a platter of chocolates urging people to try them, which in most restaurants would have been on the house -- but they then tried to charge me for it! How tacky!

Cheers,
Julain
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