Hi Julian,

"Some of my most enjoyable (and spectacular) sightings have been when we stayed with one animal for an entire drive, watching it go about its business. Unfortunately, this is really only possible if you book a private vehicle..."

Mine, too...one animal or group of animals, like a cheetah with cubs or a pride on a kill. A private vehicle is not necessary though. I've never had a private vehicle as such, but I guess I've been lucky to have people (even strangers) of like mind with me. My first such experience, which I've mentioned before, was watching a young female cheetah chase, kill and spend all day eating at Mombo. My companions were all Americans who I'd met only the day before and who, like me, had never been to Africa before. We did nothing all day (two drives) but watch that cheetah (oh, we took one quick detour half a kilometre away to check on a small pride of lions which was snoozing under some bushes).

I suppose it helps that the 'old' little Mombo 10 years ago would not have been chosen by people who put luxury and comfort ahead of wildlife, so the chances of meeting like-minded people were higher...from my perspective, another point in favour of the more down-to-earth camp, and the longer stay so you don't have to rush around like bees collecting pollen.

John

Hi John,

It sounds like you've been more fortunate in your safari companions than I have -- I've been lucky sometimes (as on this last trip with my companions at Mombo, who were great), but unlucky enough times that I prefer to have a private vehicle when I can.

Watching that female leopard stalk a herd of impala at Mombo was one of the best 1.5 hours I've spent on safari, even though she didn't make the kill in the end. Observing her movements, how she made use of every bit of cover and change in the wind, and her transformation when she went for the guinea fowl -- incredible.

Cheers,
Julian

Julian,

A discussion like this brings more of those better 'events' to the surface. Makes one wonder why some feel it's so important to find something around every corner.

I've not seen a leopard stalking, but it was a revelation last year to spend almost a whole drive watching a cheetah take her two adolescents hunting at Zibalianja. She was totally serious the whole time, of course, but the youngsters would alternate between emulating her seriousness and breaking into play with each other. It was hilarious. Her patience with them was breathtaking. We had a flat tyre in the middle of this and had to get out of the vehicle. The youngsters turned around and looked back at us, and it wasn't until I took a couple of steps forward and aimed the camera at them that they showed any alarm. I quickly stopped, because we didn't want to lose them while the wheel was being changed.

John

Interesting conversation. I agree with both Julian and john here....

If you remember from my trip report, we spent the first three game drives completely with the female cheetah. Spencer knew, that's what i wanted anyway. None of the other cars stayed longer at the sighting for over 10 minutes on the second and third drives.....on the first drive, it was obvious that she was hunting and stalking and trying to find cover from the impalas.....so, we had 3 trucks from Kwando and 3 from Selinda (all positioned without any discomfort to the predator or prey)- all done in very good taste.

John, indeed you are very fortunate with your co-companions. The only way around the private vehicle is to send an email prior to your visit to ensure that your jeep has like-minded companions.

Also, on the zoo comment....during my visit to the Masai Mara during the migration one time, there were animals round every corner along with the zillion vehicles........when i put out my top ten sightings in my mind none of them figure in it (except maybe the wildebeest crossing the river).

Hari

Hari,

I can remember one occasion when we <i><b>might</b></i> have been sharing a vehicle with people whose expectations or wants were different. Both Yvonne and I take any opportunity we can to photograph whatever is encountered, so we stop a lot for birds and small critters (unless we have a specific big game objective and time is of the essence). After this particular game drive, our female companions said with some surprise in their voices that they had thoroughly enjoyed the experience because they had seen so much more than usual. They implied that 'the men' always wanted to keep going, in search of 'the big exciting things'. This is not peculiar to an African safari. We have had the same reaction in Australia (usually from appreciative women).

Mind you, the 'blokes' (both in Africa and Australia) were probably bored stiff but I console myself with the thought that next time, they'll avoid getting into a vehicle with people holding 'serious' cameras ;)

I think it was the same safari (less than a year after 9/11) that we had the camp to ourselves for a day or two. Our guide was absolutely delighted when we said to him one morning, let's concentrate on birds.

John

Haha, yes....

Jokes apart, John....lots of times when you concentrate on the little things birds etc etc., you end up stumbling across the big game....especially with birds where silence is key, and then soon you are picking up alarm calls etc etc.,

Hari

John: I was just discussing this outdoor zoo phenomenon. I feel like there are a lot of people that want just that. The appreciation for wilderness and the patience for observing key behaviors seems lost on many who absolutely want animals around every corner and would rather see them croweded into a small reserve than have to work for hours to see them in their true wild glory. I find it frustrating but I think it is certainly going to grow as the safari market continues to expand.

Bill,

I have felt better at sightings, where we hv tracked our animals and found them, sometimes an hour or two later!!!

Of course, at times we hv responded to radio calls also....and they hv been rewarding in it's own way! But, i didnt feel that extra oomph!!!

There are lots of places/reserves that market themselves on the strengths of quantity and not quality game-viewing...

Hari

Pred,

&quot;The appreciation for wilderness and the patience for observing key behaviors seems lost on many who absolutely want animals around every corner and would rather see them crowded into a small reserve than have to work for hours to see them in their true wild glory. I find it frustrating but I think it is certainly going to grow as the safari market continues to expand&quot;- Pred

You're not wrong. Pursuit of the dollar will ensure that the demand is met. It doesn't bother me as much as it should because I'm getting on, but it could be a real pity for younger people or their children who want the true experience. They're going to miss a hell of a lot.

The most moving experience I've ever had on safari occurred a couple of years ago. Yvonne and I decided to lead a group of friends and relatives, so with 11 of us altogether, we were able to keep a whole camp to ourselves for a week or more. One of our party was a woman who suffered a potentially fatal illness after committing herself to the trip. She pulled through but it was a close thing. Like this year, it wasn't a particularly 'good' year in northern Botswana because of high water levels and tall grass. But on one of the first afternoon game drives, we found lions and spent considerable time with them. One of the lionesses had been badly injured by a buffalo the week before, and we saw her suffering (she took four weeks to die). We left the lions and found a place for sundowners. As I got out of the vehicle, our friend who had nearly died came over to me and wrapped her arms around me. I have never experienced a more moving 'thank you', and I know I will not again.

John

John: that is a tremendous story. I would love to fill a camp with my people so I could really direct the experience -- hopefully one day down the road I can do so.

Hari: I feel the same way. Tracking and finding the sighting is much more rewarding than just showing up. Of course I'm happy for any great sighting but I don't have a problem when it takes time to find such sightings.

John, touching story. At times, like that....you savour every moment of every sighting, just like life itself and truly appreciate life and the good/bad cycles of life....

Hari

Don't forget Mashatu as a possibility. I was there in late May/early June 2 years ago, and the game viewing was good. The terrain is quite different than most of the camps mentioned in the other posts; it is much more wide open and rocky. Very interesting and much less expensive than elsewhere in Botswana. Well worth it. Saw Eland, bush pig, hyrax, python, hyena, lions, good elephants, the lone gemsbok, leopard and lots more. And the hide provided some great photo ops. They also offer walking, biking and horseback riding if you want something more active. If you are interested I can fill in more details or answer any of your questions.

Hi John,

That was a very special moment -- thank you for sharing it with us.

I have to admit that I've never quite gotten into birding, though I find the raptors fascinating and love watching small mammals and reptiles. I think it's just a personal thing having to do with a bad experience I had when I was young -- ever since then I've found that birds vaguely creep me out.

I've always liked the idea of putting together a like-minded group of people and taking over a camp -- maybe at some point in the future.

Cheers,
Julian

I am happy to say that Hari, Gaurang (&quot;Africa&quot;) and I will be taking over at least one lodge in Kafue National Park next October (2007) and that a couple of the other lodges on the itinerary only have room for one more couple. It will be a 12 day overland safari starting and ending in Lusaka.

Although I have two safaris planned before then, I must say that I am very much looking forward to spending so much time with fellow Fodorites AND returning to Zambia.