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Old Jul 10th, 2011, 10:01 AM
  #21  
 
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Boats:
San Jacinta--it sank, fortunately not with me on it
Sagitta
Both were great.

There are many good itineraries still offered, even if they differ from the past.

Most itineraries include Hood/Espanola, Fernandina, North Seymour, Santa Cruz. If you want to see the Red Footed Boobies, you have to get to Tower/Genovesa, a little farther away. Not only have some itineraries changed, but the boats are faster, allowing for more options.

I posted this in the past:

I’ll give my opinion of the more memorable islands based on 2 trips, one at the end of April and one at the start of August. For a more thorough explanation of the islands, get Barry Boyce’s book A Traveler’s Guide to the Galapagos.

Espanola/Hood—Most itineraries include this island since it has such a diversity of animals. The Waved Albatross are here except Jan-Mar. They come here to mate and raise their young. You can watch the bonding rituals that include open-beak kissing and you can see young birds learning to take off from the cliffs. Usually big colonies of blue footed boobies live here. But on the April trip there were more blue footed boobies on Seymour. The Marine Iguanas with their bright “Christmas tree” colors are present and are some of the biggest of the islands. The Hood Mocking Birds are unique to this island and you can approach within a meter or two. Nazca boobies are here. Sea lions are here, but they are most everywhere.

Fernandina—The most marine iguanas are here. Lava lizards sun themselves on the heads of the marine iguanas. This is lizard land. This island is one of the few places to get a good look at the flightless cormorant. You can get close enough to see the blue eyes.

North Seymour—Blue footed Boobies live here too, along with Nazca boobies. This island has the largest colony of Magnificent Frigate birds and also the Great Frigate Birds—in Aug their pouches were not inflated, in April most were. Good sea lion activity, sometimes surfing.

Tower/Genovesa—This island is in the north and not often included on the shorter trips. The red footed boobies live here. Little black marine iguanas live here. The swallow tailed gull is here, but you can see that elsewhere.

Santa Cruz—This has the Charles Darwin Research station and every tour visits this place. There are tortoise pens here. You may also take a road trip to the highlands where wild tortoises roam. The highlands are a good place to find the vermilion flycatcher. You can take a panga ride (small boat) through Black Turtle Cove and see rays, reef sharks, and marine turtles. Turtles are more common Nov-May, but I did see some in Aug, especially while snorkeling in the ocean.

South Plaza—Bachelor colony of sea lions here. You can see the red billed tropicbirds and swallow tailed gulls fly along the cliffs. This island has a desert-like atmosphere with cactus that support the land iguana--different from marine iguana.

James—The fur seal (not sea lion) grotto is here. It was also one of the best places I found for Sally Lightfoot crabs. I got within a couple meters of several Galapagos Hawks here.

Isabella--If you take a panga, you can see penguins along the rocks. You can also snorkel here and get close to the penguins. The waters around Isabella are very good for whale watching. On the Aug trip we saw sperm whales, humpbacks, orcas, and a minke right next to the boat. The whales were not just seen near Isabella. Just a couple of whale sightings in April. But in April we snorkeled near bottle nosed dolphins.

Rabida--Red sand beaches with flamingos and sea lions.

Zambia--
Ignore the Penguins part and go to the Puku part for South and North Luangwa.
http://www.fodors.com/community/afri...-n-luangwa.cfm

This account of Robin Pope Camps was not posted on Fodors before

Pope Camps
Upon arrival in Mfuwe, five of us were asked by Jason, the RPS rep, if we wanted to do a game drive that would turn into a night drive or if we wanted to just go back to camp and relax. I was the only one who did not want to go straight to camp so I was pleased that a game drive vehicle was summoned for one person. With Zebron as my guide, during the night drive, I saw 2 hyenas, 1 lion, 1 leopard, a grysbok (a first for me), a genet, and a black-tailed mongoose.

It was worth staying the night in Nkwali to get to spend some time enroute between Nkwali and Tena Tena where I saw numerous Thorncroft’s giraffes, including a baby; herds of zebra; a racket-tailed roller; a pair of black collared barbets; a fishing party of pelicans, yellow-billed stork, and spoonbills; and right after I crossed the river, five bull elephants leisurely crossed the Luangawa.

My three days and nights at Tena Tena were great. The hippos loved grazing next to my tent at night. The sage and the lavender-scented scrub that they were eating filled the air with a lovely aroma that made my whole tent smell good all night long. I think Glade should package it. Five monitors and some baby crocs hung out daily on a fallen tree in the river in front of the camp. Elephant and puku would cross back and forth across the river just a few yards from camp.

A walking highlight at Tena was following the sounds of baboon and puku alarm calls to find a leopard on the ground on a puku kill, with hyenas in the distance. The leopard ran off in full view and we were able to piece together the kill. The puku had been killed across a small creek where there was still blood on the soil and then dragged to where we found it. Hyena tracks showed that hyenas had tried to steal the kill from the leopard. Seeing a leopard on foot was quite a thrill.

We also saw male and female kudu on foot and two sleeping buffalo. Several buffalo saw us first and crashed through the tall grass in the other direction, fortunately.

Leopard activity continued on the drives. We spent one afternoon watching a leopard in a tree. At dusk it came down and walked around, exciting the nearby puku. We left for sundowners but encountered the leopard again during our night drive. We parted company once more and found a giant eagle on the ground and a lone male lion. We followed the male lion, who walked right by where we had left the leopard, chasing it up a tree. After the lion cleared out, we watched the leopard descend from the tree and walk off. On another night drive, we found four lionesses hunting with two cubs tagging along playfully. We also saw a beautiful gecko and the tiny Scops Owl, which our spotter was very excited to see. We spent 15 minutes watching a civet with some great view and saw lots of large spotted and small spotted genets. I never tire of genets.

My last day there I witnessed the arrival of the carmine bee-eaters.

------------
This is an earlier account of my first trip to Kutandala in North Luangwa


<b>Kutandala Camp in North Luangwa, Zambia</b>

I always enjoy the variety of distinct and wonderful accommodations in the bush, but Kutandala (which means something like come stay with us and relax a while) has a charm and an appeal that makes it stand out, even among the wonderful.

Just getting there is a unique experience. After an hour’s game drive from the airstrip, you have to roll up your trousers to cross the knee-deep, slow-flowing Mwaleshi River.

The design of the tents, all done traditionally without nails or screws, is elegant and functional with a nice view of the river during the day and the stars at night--all right from your bed. The tents have a dried mud floor and the ensuite bathroom has a sand-bottom floor. Warm water is provided each morning through a flap in the bathroom wall and early morning coffee/tea is served through a flap in the main unit. The tents are beautifully decorated with shells, tree stumps, seedpods, and other natural materials.

The umbrella shaded lounge chairs along the river are very inviting during afternoon siesta.

The common areas for breakfast, tea, lounging, and dinner have all been designed to be completely open air. The surrounding trees provide the shelter for an appealing natural setting.

All of the camps have great food, but I have to say Kutandala has an extra special gourmet touch, which would be the work of Guz. I can actually remember how good the food was at Tafika when I was there back in 1998 and Guz was the caterer; I found that her culinary skills continued to flourish at her own camp. So even though this camp is one of the most remote, the dining was some of the very best.

There is a mature atmosphere of dedication and commitment at Kutandala with the Tethers as the owners and managers. Rod does the guiding and Guz performs the miracles in the kitchen. Their staff is also top notch. The quality of the people behind the operation has as much to do with the camp ambiance as the physical aesthetics and the cuisine. I thoroughly enjoyed the time I spent with both Rod and Guz.

Kutandala is more than just a special place out in the wilderness. We saw great game and almost all of it on foot, thanks to the skill and effort of Rod. Highlights were:

Seven species all within a panoramic view, interacting with each other (and us): impala, puku, Cookson’s wildebeest, warthog, zebra, waterbuck, and 3 lions. There were 2 male lions and a female. We actually saw the lions before the other animals did, so it was interesting to see their delayed reaction.

A herd of about 300 buffalo stampeding past where I was drying my feet after crossing the river and putting on my boots—-at a safe distance.

An encounter between a buffalo walking down the riverbank and a croc sunning itself on the back that refused to move. The croc opened its mouth really wide right in the buffalo's face and the buffalo retreated.

Interesting bird of prey activity: a fish eagle with a rodent, a snake eagle with a snake, and a martial eagle’s failed attempt at flock of flying guinea fowl.

Getting growled at by a bush pig—not oinked or grunted—but growled.

A big bull elephant and a young male crossing the Mwalesi, picking up our scent running into the forest.

We did a little bit of traditional game driving to and from the airstrip, plus one afternoon when we completed an errand (delivering rifles) for the park staff who were in charge of the boma for the newly located black rhinos. On those drives we saw a nice herd of Cookson’s Wildebeest, a herd of about ten elephants, kudu, a pair of lions at the end of their honeymoon, and a beautifully fluffed lilac breasted roller.
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Old Jul 11th, 2011, 06:48 AM
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We aren't particularly boat people, and normally, cruises are emphatically not our thing, but we did enjoy a trip to Galapagos a few years ago, which we combined with some time in Peru, afterwards.

But probably the most amazing trip to do for a big occasion such as the 5 0 would be Antarctica as Lynn and others have suggested.

We did our first trip in 2004 and went back in 2008. And then we went to the Falklands in 2010 for yet more albatross and penguins.

If you do go to Antarctica, here are some suggestions:

Choose an expedition-style trip where emphasis is on wildlife and landscape and history and learning and experiencing and NOT on gourmet food and cabarets and casinos and dressing up...

Choose a ship with max 100 passengers. Only 100 permitted ashore at one time, so ships with larger numbers = less time on shore in shift slots. And some of the larger ships make less stops overall.

Don't miss out South Georgia, which was the absolute highlight for us and has also proved so for friends who have been too. It means a longer itinerary and it sure costs a lot but you will not regret it for the rest of your life.
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Old Jul 11th, 2011, 08:31 AM
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Kaley- since you have been to both, why do you prefer Antarctica. What did you see and do that made it so unforgettable? We really do not like cold weather and while I have heard many reports about Antarctica being amazing, could please help me understand what makes it a trip that someone would never regret. I would definitely say the same thing about the gorillas of Uganda and I would love to understand the experience of Antarctica.
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Old Jul 11th, 2011, 09:13 AM
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I just looked up trips to Antarctica. I really am really going to need to win the lottery. I unfortunately think it is out of our budget. We love to travel and if we took a trip like this we could not go and where else for two years.
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Old Jul 11th, 2011, 01:16 PM
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I cannot stand to be cold, CANNOT stand it, truly. I turn my nose up at "bracing walks" throughout autumn, winter and spring. I use a hot water bottle in my bed for, I'd say, 7-8 months of the year. I wear double socks and snow boots if I go out in a couple of inches of snow here in London!

I hate being cold!

But we didn't find it that cold in Antarctica, as tourists go there during summer, and more often than not, the sun was shining. On the few days it wasn't, we were dressed up so well in our warm weather gear that we just didn't feel the cold much. On those few days, what bothered more was difficulty of photography, not the cold!

What did we love?

Firstly, the remoteness, the true wilderness, the sheer excitement of being where we were. But more than that, the amazing beauty of the land and sea scapes. We haven't been to the Arctic but were told by many who had that the bergs in Antarctica are far far far more amazing. Especially the crazy huge ones!

And of course, the wildlife. Stepping onto a South Georgia beach which is home to quarter of a million penguins is like nothing on earth I've ever experienced. It's unbelievable and spectacular and just... I don't have words.

And on top of that you have other wildlife, amazing scenery and some history too, learning about the explorers, those who succeeded and those who failed, like Shackleton. Oh and you might well visit current research stations too, which is a lesson in remote living, that's for sure.

We did love Galapagos but there were a lot of visitors and, even walking about in our small groups of 10, we never really felt remote or alone with nature.

I understand completely your issues re price. We'd love to go again but at this stage, it's not likely. But for me, giving up other trips for a year or two, if that's how long it would be, in order to get to Antarctica, would be worth it. With the proviso that you have to include South Georgia, as it really is very special indeed.

x
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Old Jul 11th, 2011, 06:46 PM
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While you get close to the wildlife in the Galapagos, there is not the feeling of remoteness that I felt along the Katmai coast in Kodiak while bear watching. But we did not get as close to the bears as we did to the marine iguanas and blue footed boobies.

Funny, Kavey, I thought you might have chosen 2 Antarctic trips because you enjoy cold, brisk weather. Was I wrong!
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Old Jul 11th, 2011, 07:46 PM
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Kavey-It does sound absolutely amazing and I can really appreciate the idea of remoteness. I hope that one day it will be a possible trip and will definitely add it to the list. I think right now that it is just not possible. I am thinking that Alaska is a good option as well as maybe the Galapagos or maybe even Botswana.
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Old Jul 12th, 2011, 04:46 AM
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Maybe I didnt do Alaska right, but I really dont see Alaska as that special step up you are looking for after Tanzania and Uganda.
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Old Jul 12th, 2011, 06:11 AM
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Frank S- What you you suggest as a special place. We have been to some incredibly places but I would really like to do something unique and different if possible for the big birthday.
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Old Jul 12th, 2011, 08:45 AM
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Staying on John Rogers boat, Kittiwake and spending days walking the Katmai coast had an exhilarating feel, similar to Africa. Also staying at Lake Clark Bear Camp and "safari-ing" the Kodiak shoreline and islands in Trophy II with Lee Robbins, visiting Round Island for the walrus, Hallo Bay Wilderness Camp, and exploring St. Paul in the Pribiloffs, produced that special feeling. But those "special feelings" have substantial price.

"While you get close to the wildlife in the Galapagos, there is not the feeling of remoteness..."

I should fine tune my statement. I did feel remote, but not as secluded because there were a dozen other people walking around with me from our boat.

So seclusion should replace remoteness above.

A rule that was in effect on my Galapagos trips, and probably still is but you should check--only one boat of visitors is allowed at a site at one time. There were not a lot of boats dropping of visitors all at the same place.

One thing that is more of a constant in Africa than other places is the weather, if you go in the dry season. Even with a little more unpredictablity as of late, it is far more predicatably pleasant in the dry season than Alaska can ever be. A couple of beautiful days in a row in Alaksa is a real gift. Even the Galapagos, where there is never a bad time to go, can get misty or it can rain. India in March was really pleasant--hot midday, but not bad. The weather at that time of the year in Inida reminded me of dry season Africa more than I thought it would.
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Old Jul 12th, 2011, 06:44 PM
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Thanks for the tip about the weather in Alaska Lynn.
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Old Jul 13th, 2011, 06:02 AM
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I like Alaska as I love to fish. but....Alaska in my opinion, is a wilderness destination with majestic remote landscape and select wildlife viewing.

A suggestion? Its pretty hard to top Tanzania for an 'amazing wildlife' experience on land. Botswana might provide a 'unique' experience or even a walking safari in the part of Tarangire Park not open to 4x4s. Late summer would be an ideal time for that.....or I might suggest go off land and consider SCUBA in the islands of Fiji
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Old Jul 13th, 2011, 02:05 PM
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I've done a number of the trips mentioned here, and some not covered:

Galapagos
Antarctica (peninsula only)
Katmai
Arctic National Wildlife Refuge
Arctic Norway - Spitsbergen
Just got back from Zambia - South Luangwa and Lower Zambezi
Tanzania
South Africa

I'd have to rank Antarctica at the top. The remoteness and ability to get close to wildlife, and just the sheer adventure of it make it one of my best trips. Galapagos is a very nice trip - it's just not as adventurous as other trips - really, a kind of soft adventure; but I did enjoy that trip very much. I put Katmai in much the same category, but with more adventure and ruggedness.

ANWR is only if you're very much into roughing it; and the wildlife sightings pale in comparison to what you would get in Africa. I'd say that trip is more for the remoteness and the landscapes than a pure wildife experience. I chuckle a bit when people in Africa talk about being in a remote wilderness - being dropped in a wilderness hundreds of miles from the nearest dirt road, much less a human settlement, sets the standard for remote for me.

I liked the Arctic Norway trip, but it's not like Antarctica. I think a lot of people think it's going to be that way, and are disappointed when it's not. You simply cannot get up close and personal with walrus and polar bear like you can with a penguin.

On my current lifelist:

Botswana
Namibia
Pantanal
Amazon River
Kayaking Trip in Baja during the whale migration
South Georgia
Mongolia (starting in St. Petersburg and taking the Express through to Beijing)
Yellowstone in Winter
Alsek River rafting trip

Currently considering popping down to Easter Island over New Year's - I found frequent flier tickets in business class, so am giving this serious thought.
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Old Jul 13th, 2011, 05:18 PM
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It's true that in terms of wildlife encounters, Alaska is not in the same league as many safari destinations in Africa, or the sub-Antarctic islands maybe. There are fewer species, they tend to be hard to find, and the wildlife tourism industry is very under-developed compared to, say, South Africa, Kenya/Tanzaina, or Botswana. And the creature comforts aren't in the same league either. I'd be surprised if the best accommodations in Alaska would earn four stars from the South African Tourism Grading Council; in fact three might be a stretch.

To me, it's the combination of things, as it is in South Africa, that I see as the draw. Partly the geography, partly the fauna, but particularly the <i>human</i> geography.

Traveling off the road system in Alaska puts you in touch not only with stunning landscapes, but a very interesting and unique <i>human</i> landscape. Not all of it is pretty, just like it isn't pretty in Africa or parts of Asia. But it's right here under our noses - it's part of our country. Travel to the arctic and visit with people who subsist on whales and caribou for a big part of their diet. Go to Nome and see the remains of a colossal gold rush 110 years ago; the bones still visible, while another mineral rush is taking place just up the road, with implications yet to be discerned.

Charter a plane in Kotzebue and fly up to the Kobuk Sands - remarkable sand dunes, like a bit of Death Valley beamed into the subarctic.

Go into the Kenai Fjords and play tag with the whales. Or not - they aren't tracked from a 4x4. Head over to Dawson and drive a jeep up the Klondike River, still populated with gold prospectors hoping to see some colo(u)r in their pans. Still.

Go out to Lake Clark or Katmai or Cold Bay and watch bears and wolves from the air. I once watched from the air a wolf pack trail and ultimately take down some caribou, running through the tundra on the Alaska Peninsula. Once-in-a-blue-moon thing.

Finish the night talking to the <i>real</i> Bering Sea fishermen, not some TV personas talking from their boat in Ketchikan. Ketchikan?

Anyway, the point is that Alaska is as much about the people as the scenery and the wildlife. If you go, go for the big picture, the one with people in it, too.
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Old Jul 15th, 2011, 02:02 AM
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Lynn, ha, no I hate being cold. Had that same worry about whether it would make me miserable before we did the first trip!!!

lhgreenacres, one day! glad to add to your wishlist, mine's always growing. Alaska beautiful, some stunning landscapes and we did see grizzlies and moose there, I went in 1980s as a kid. Botswana fantastic for remote camps and great wildlife viewing. Not cheap either, but suggest you also post on safaritalk.net for some extra input on ways of getting most for your budget. And Galapagos still worthwhile visiting, the marine igauanas, boobies, frigates, tortoises... all fascinating. Just not as remote feeling but doesn't mean not great!

x
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Old Jul 17th, 2011, 11:47 AM
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I know i will get some flack but I have not been really visited much of Africa except Madagascar for diving but since you have have been to Borneo (8 days) and I assume Malaysia Borneo and possibly relaxed at Sabah afterwards as we did, I believe you will be bored in the Galapagos adfter 3-4 days.Even as a semi-birder I just did not find enough differences to warrant the 8 day, 10 islands, trip that we took.Though there clearly were differences they were not significant enough to get our juices flowing. That is not the fault of our guides who were highly trained experts from the Woods Hole Institute, Sanford Univ. and two university in South America. I think you have likely some other great suggestions but we are mostly into underwater pleasures so I cannot comment on which to choose. But in January we are going on an Amazon excursion out of Santerem for 5 days on a tributary where as I understand we will really get all that the Amazon has to offer in terms of wildlife.
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Old Jul 18th, 2011, 02:04 AM
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Stan that may be the case, our trip was 4/5 days and then we combined with Peru. I don't know whether I'd have found 10 days on Galapagos too repetitive.
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Old Jul 19th, 2011, 09:05 PM
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StanKase-to be honest that has been some of my concern about the Galapagos. We have been to some wonderful places and have been worried it would be a little less adventurous than we like. We are have been to the Amazon in Peru, Ecuador and Brazil and loved it. We really loved the rainforest and the ability to do a lot of walking. We are also going to the Maldives when we go to Sri Lanka. Have you been there?

Liveliest-The Pantanal was also one of our best trips. Saw loads of wildlife and the best and easiest birding. Lots of colorful big birds in bare trees.

We also really like to be able to count on the weather as much as possible. Alaska does sound beautiful but definitely an expensive trip to do some of the amazing things.
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Old Jul 20th, 2011, 07:06 AM
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A non-diving Galapagos trip is definitely less adventurous than the wilder parts of Alaska because the Galapagos walks are so controlled and you cannot deviate from the schedule of where to land and when. The daily schedules are quite regimented, although you don't have to partake in all the activities such as the snorkeling or kayaking. Galapagos gets very high marks for wildlife encounters and natural beauty, but less for adventure.

I like the description of "liveliest" for the Pantanal.
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Old Jul 20th, 2011, 07:26 AM
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So many suggestions! I'll have to check these out.

Africa is usually my first choice so I haven't been to very many places besides Africa. I can recommend the trip I took to Alaska for bear photography.

If you aren't really into photography or salmon fishing it might be too boring for you. We flew to Anchorage, then King Salmon, then on a float plane for about an hour and then in a jet boat for another 45 minutes or an hour. It was way back in there. But so beautiful. And so many bears. Some were pretty close and some were very close.

And so many salmon. You could stand on the deck of the lodge and watch a steady stream of the salmon swimming upstream. 4 MPH I think the guide said the river speed is and the salmon swim against it. Incredible. And fishing? You can literally stand in the water and watch the fish swim right beside you. And this non-fishing person enjoyed the heck out of catching salmon on a fly rod (furnished by the lodge). Also enjoyed the shore lunch and eating the fresh salmon we just caught.

But the trip for me is mainly about the bears. You left the lodge with your guide and a packed lunch at 8am and you cruised the river all day. Finding bears. Sometimes you would stop on the shore or an island and watch bears on the opposite river bank. We spent one whole day in one spot and saw probably a dozen different bears. some photos are here http://www.pbase.com/cjw/2009_grizzly_bears_alaska

Another very cool trip was the Falkland Islands. Penguins, penguins, penguins and albatross, ducks, birds, sea lions, seals etc. The penguins come up to you so close that you could reach out and touch them. http://www.pbase.com/cjw/feb_2009_falkland_islands

I also really enjoyed the trip to British Columbia http://www.pbase.com/cjw/spirit_bears

Good luck making a choice and happy 50th!
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