Back from 26 Days in the Falkland Islands - Happy to answer any questions
Feb 24th, 2010, 09:11 AM
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Back from 26 Days in the Falkland Islands - Happy to answer any questions
I know the Falklands isn't in Africa but am posting a quick post here as I know many regulars here, who love wildlife, would enjoy a visit to this destination.
Pete and I just got back today from our wonderful trip to the Falkland Islands.
We flew there and back on the RAF flights from Brize Norton, currently being operated by Air Seychelles.
This is our itinerary
1 night Darwin
1 night Carcass Island
3 nights West Point Island
4 nights Carcass Island
5 nights Pebble Island
8 nights Saunders Island (this should have been 7 nights with first 2 at Rookery and then 5 at Neck but we had an extra night at the settlement because FIGAS weren't able to operate any flights on the day we were due to leave, because of weather)
2 nights Volunteer Point (should have been 3, see above)
2 nights Stanley
Please let me know if I can answer any questions. It will be a while before we sort photos as we have some major DIY to do before a new fitted bedroom is put in next week!
Kavey
Pete and I just got back today from our wonderful trip to the Falkland Islands.
We flew there and back on the RAF flights from Brize Norton, currently being operated by Air Seychelles.
This is our itinerary
1 night Darwin
1 night Carcass Island
3 nights West Point Island
4 nights Carcass Island
5 nights Pebble Island
8 nights Saunders Island (this should have been 7 nights with first 2 at Rookery and then 5 at Neck but we had an extra night at the settlement because FIGAS weren't able to operate any flights on the day we were due to leave, because of weather)
2 nights Volunteer Point (should have been 3, see above)
2 nights Stanley
Please let me know if I can answer any questions. It will be a while before we sort photos as we have some major DIY to do before a new fitted bedroom is put in next week!
Kavey
Feb 24th, 2010, 01:47 PM
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Matt, sure thing!
Highlights on wildlife for me:
Spending time in the midst of the black-browed albatross and rockhopper penguin colony at Devil's Nose on West Point. We sat amongst the tussac grass (huge, mature specimens) and were within touching distance (not that we did/ would) of the birds. We watched (and photographed) for hours as albatross chicks sat on nests waiting for parents to fly back and feed them, other adults were touching beaks in their courting/ bonding behaviour. Adult black-browed albatross are, in my opinion, one of the most beautiful birds on the planet, with their eye-shadow grey marking by their eyes. The adult rockhoppers, as their name suggests, hopped and scrambled their long, long way from sea to young ones who waited impatiently for their meals. Squawking and plaintive calling and aggressive screeching between all of them filled the air. Oh and the occasional caraca or skua flying overhead looking for unattended or injured chicks to pick off...
At Pebble Island the rockhoppers tended to share colonies with cormorants instead of albatross. These big birds look so funny in flight, especially landing and taking off. And more darling chicks to watch.
Also on Pebble, large colonies of gentoos, the chicks of which were almost ready to head off to see, and were at an apparently fairly short-lived curious stage where, as you got out of the landrover and sat on the ground, they'd swarm towards you, sometimes right on top of your feet or touching your camera with their beaks until the slightest movement would spook them and they'd waddle off in alarm, only to come back a few moments later.
Saunders Neck is probably the island with the greatest range of wildlife, though the least comfortable accommodation (but there are plans in place to upgrade this, don't know when). Magellenic, Gentoo, Rockhopper and King Penguins are easy to see and watch from close quarters. Some are fortunate to see an odd macaroni but we didn't. We spent hours with the rockhoppers in particular as we could sit on the beach (in the HOWLING wind/ rain waiting for the odd breaks of sun/ dry) watching them porpoise in the water, head for shore, clamber out and jump and hop their way up the cliff face where we sat and vice versa back in again. The kings here, although a small group of about 15 adults, had 3 chicks, the 3rd of which we saw for the first time only on our last day! We also saw a huge old elephant seal here and enjoyed Commerson's dolphins playing in the surf RIGHT by the shore, in the shallows, back and forth where we stood, for over an hour and a half! We think there was a Peale's in there too.
Everywhere there are many striated caracara or "johnny rooks" as they are known locally. Stunning birds and incredibly curious, they hop right up to you, so close you can't even focus the camera! We also saw a handful of crested cararacas but more rarely.
Many small birds such as the stunning long-tailed meadowlark, the funny dark-faced ground tyrants, the very friendly tussac birds (as friendly and fearless as the caracaras) and many many more.
At Volunteer Point we enjoyed the much larger King penguin colonies, about 1000 breeding adults and many many chicks.
WONDERFUL!
Highlights on wildlife for me:
Spending time in the midst of the black-browed albatross and rockhopper penguin colony at Devil's Nose on West Point. We sat amongst the tussac grass (huge, mature specimens) and were within touching distance (not that we did/ would) of the birds. We watched (and photographed) for hours as albatross chicks sat on nests waiting for parents to fly back and feed them, other adults were touching beaks in their courting/ bonding behaviour. Adult black-browed albatross are, in my opinion, one of the most beautiful birds on the planet, with their eye-shadow grey marking by their eyes. The adult rockhoppers, as their name suggests, hopped and scrambled their long, long way from sea to young ones who waited impatiently for their meals. Squawking and plaintive calling and aggressive screeching between all of them filled the air. Oh and the occasional caraca or skua flying overhead looking for unattended or injured chicks to pick off...
At Pebble Island the rockhoppers tended to share colonies with cormorants instead of albatross. These big birds look so funny in flight, especially landing and taking off. And more darling chicks to watch.
Also on Pebble, large colonies of gentoos, the chicks of which were almost ready to head off to see, and were at an apparently fairly short-lived curious stage where, as you got out of the landrover and sat on the ground, they'd swarm towards you, sometimes right on top of your feet or touching your camera with their beaks until the slightest movement would spook them and they'd waddle off in alarm, only to come back a few moments later.
Saunders Neck is probably the island with the greatest range of wildlife, though the least comfortable accommodation (but there are plans in place to upgrade this, don't know when). Magellenic, Gentoo, Rockhopper and King Penguins are easy to see and watch from close quarters. Some are fortunate to see an odd macaroni but we didn't. We spent hours with the rockhoppers in particular as we could sit on the beach (in the HOWLING wind/ rain waiting for the odd breaks of sun/ dry) watching them porpoise in the water, head for shore, clamber out and jump and hop their way up the cliff face where we sat and vice versa back in again. The kings here, although a small group of about 15 adults, had 3 chicks, the 3rd of which we saw for the first time only on our last day! We also saw a huge old elephant seal here and enjoyed Commerson's dolphins playing in the surf RIGHT by the shore, in the shallows, back and forth where we stood, for over an hour and a half! We think there was a Peale's in there too.
Everywhere there are many striated caracara or "johnny rooks" as they are known locally. Stunning birds and incredibly curious, they hop right up to you, so close you can't even focus the camera! We also saw a handful of crested cararacas but more rarely.
Many small birds such as the stunning long-tailed meadowlark, the funny dark-faced ground tyrants, the very friendly tussac birds (as friendly and fearless as the caracaras) and many many more.
At Volunteer Point we enjoyed the much larger King penguin colonies, about 1000 breeding adults and many many chicks.
WONDERFUL!
Feb 24th, 2010, 03:12 PM
#6
Hi, Kavey, and welcome back! Did you love it?
I guess you stayed at that little building at The Neck. Did you have to cook your own food? Did you stay at the farmhouse on Saunders? That was a little basic in the food/hospitality/accommodations area also. But they did have the little colony of King Penguins that they are trying to keep happy (by keeping people away from them) so they stay there.
I can't believe you saw the dolphins at the shore. Very cool.
I guess you stayed at that little building at The Neck. Did you have to cook your own food? Did you stay at the farmhouse on Saunders? That was a little basic in the food/hospitality/accommodations area also. But they did have the little colony of King Penguins that they are trying to keep happy (by keeping people away from them) so they stay there.
I can't believe you saw the dolphins at the shore. Very cool.
Feb 25th, 2010, 01:35 AM
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We did stay in the cabin at The Neck and yes we were self-catering there. But our agent had booked food packs sent out on the flight with us so we just topped these up a little with a couple of items from the settlement's store. It was very basic in terms of accommodation and the mattresses were past dead and decomposing - so many springs sticking into me all night. But it was worth it! The colony of kings is still there, approximately 15 of them. For most of our 5 days there we saw 2 grey chicks popping outside from an adult's feet/ protective fold but on the last day a third, much smaller one appeared, for the first time. Apparently they don't come out for a few days so it wasn't born that day but it was definitely the first day it came out into view!
It has indeed been on the news, though there aren't any problems actually there. Argentinian government is posturing, partly because of the start of the drilling for oil and partly to deflect attentions from domestic failures and this is being hyped up by the media. I can't imagine Argentina would be stupid enough to actually attack again, I really can't! It didn't work when they had the element of surprise. It certainly wouldn't work now. It seems to be they are shooting themselves in the foot as what they could do move forward, accept what is as it is, and take a slice of the pie by offering support facilities and processing facilities for the oil industry, if it happens.
They are making it difficult for cruise ships because most of those going to Antarctica depart from Ushuaia. And Argentina are insisting on special permits for those who stop at the Falklands. If they push too hard I suspect a lot of the ships will simply transfer operations to Chile.
But I was surprised that even Chile came out in support of Argentina, this time. That was a turn up!
It has indeed been on the news, though there aren't any problems actually there. Argentinian government is posturing, partly because of the start of the drilling for oil and partly to deflect attentions from domestic failures and this is being hyped up by the media. I can't imagine Argentina would be stupid enough to actually attack again, I really can't! It didn't work when they had the element of surprise. It certainly wouldn't work now. It seems to be they are shooting themselves in the foot as what they could do move forward, accept what is as it is, and take a slice of the pie by offering support facilities and processing facilities for the oil industry, if it happens.
They are making it difficult for cruise ships because most of those going to Antarctica depart from Ushuaia. And Argentina are insisting on special permits for those who stop at the Falklands. If they push too hard I suspect a lot of the ships will simply transfer operations to Chile.
But I was surprised that even Chile came out in support of Argentina, this time. That was a turn up!
Mar 18th, 2010, 09:51 AM
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I have uploaded a few photos here:
http://www.gowander.com/photos-list....cb3aadfbb78014
These aren't my best shots, but I chose a few that I was willing to post on my food blog, which you can also view at kaveyeats.com with some info about food we ate during the trip!
http://www.gowander.com/photos-list....cb3aadfbb78014
These aren't my best shots, but I chose a few that I was willing to post on my food blog, which you can also view at kaveyeats.com with some info about food we ate during the trip!
May 31st, 2012, 12:37 PM
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I will be in the Falklands later this year. I have my flights booked and I'm working on an itinerary and working on the logistics on sightseeing/hotels?FIAGS flights, etc.
I am having very difficult time getting information about the islands. I will be there for one week.
Kavey and sundowner, is it best to prearrange all travel arrangements or can the destination be visited independently? If anybody can recommend a travel company for sightseeing in the Falklands please let me know.
Thanks.
I am having very difficult time getting information about the islands. I will be there for one week.
Kavey and sundowner, is it best to prearrange all travel arrangements or can the destination be visited independently? If anybody can recommend a travel company for sightseeing in the Falklands please let me know.
Thanks.
Jun 1st, 2012, 07:37 PM
#13
RJames, lucky you! That is such a fun trip.
I went with a group but the group leader goes every year and he uses one of the travel agents on the Falkland Island websites. I remember looking when I got back but I can't remember which one he uses. I think it's one of the first two
http://www.falklandislands.com/contents/view/115 and it might be Falkland Islands Holidays. They were great and everything went smoothly. There are some suggested itineraries on those websites.
If I were going back - and I wish I were - I would use a local agent and definitely prearrange everything.
Some travel/clothing tips I can give you are:
The wind is constant and strong making it seem much colder than the temp appears. Wind jacket and pants are a must, as is light-weight fabric layering, and a hat, neck-gaiter/scarf and gloves. Several people on my trip wore Gore-tex pants every day. I had windpants that I wore over knit yoga type pants and I did get cold a couple of days so another layer would have been good. DON'T forget the hat. It's cold. And windy. I know I already said that but it bears repeating.
One thing I distinctly remember was the shoe thing. I didn't know what to expect so I took a pair of rubber boots for everyday wear. That was good and bad. Good because you have to take your shoes off before entering every home/place to stay so it was easy to take off and on. Bad because a lot of the walking/hiking you do is across the hills so one foot is higher (up mountain) than the other and they were too loose on my feet. But they were great on the beaches. The gore-tex and water proof/windproof pants are good for the beaches, too.
I don't know if you are going for photography but if you are just know that sand is everywhere on most islands, especially when photographing the penguins. You may want a good weather cover for camera gear. While in the field I used light-weight backpack to carry my gear, lunch, water, and to store/carry another layer of clothing.
Back to shoes again, I took a pair of crocs instead of house shoes/slippers to wear inside the homes/hotels and they were perfect for that and very light weight in the luggage. Our photography gear was very heavy and we had to pay overweight fees for the FIGAS flights. In 2009 the baggage allowance on FIGAS was 20kg per person.
Just thinking back on the trip and remembering how fun it was reminds me that I met a lady that went there for 2 weeks and her luggage missed the flight. And if you've been reading about the Falklands you know there is only one flight per week so she had nothing to wear for a week. She did some shopping in Stanley where the choices were very, very limited. You may want to overdress for the flight just to be on the safe side.
Have a great trip!!
Cindy
I went with a group but the group leader goes every year and he uses one of the travel agents on the Falkland Island websites. I remember looking when I got back but I can't remember which one he uses. I think it's one of the first two
http://www.falklandislands.com/contents/view/115 and it might be Falkland Islands Holidays. They were great and everything went smoothly. There are some suggested itineraries on those websites.
If I were going back - and I wish I were - I would use a local agent and definitely prearrange everything.
Some travel/clothing tips I can give you are:
The wind is constant and strong making it seem much colder than the temp appears. Wind jacket and pants are a must, as is light-weight fabric layering, and a hat, neck-gaiter/scarf and gloves. Several people on my trip wore Gore-tex pants every day. I had windpants that I wore over knit yoga type pants and I did get cold a couple of days so another layer would have been good. DON'T forget the hat. It's cold. And windy. I know I already said that but it bears repeating.
One thing I distinctly remember was the shoe thing. I didn't know what to expect so I took a pair of rubber boots for everyday wear. That was good and bad. Good because you have to take your shoes off before entering every home/place to stay so it was easy to take off and on. Bad because a lot of the walking/hiking you do is across the hills so one foot is higher (up mountain) than the other and they were too loose on my feet. But they were great on the beaches. The gore-tex and water proof/windproof pants are good for the beaches, too.
I don't know if you are going for photography but if you are just know that sand is everywhere on most islands, especially when photographing the penguins. You may want a good weather cover for camera gear. While in the field I used light-weight backpack to carry my gear, lunch, water, and to store/carry another layer of clothing.
Back to shoes again, I took a pair of crocs instead of house shoes/slippers to wear inside the homes/hotels and they were perfect for that and very light weight in the luggage. Our photography gear was very heavy and we had to pay overweight fees for the FIGAS flights. In 2009 the baggage allowance on FIGAS was 20kg per person.
Just thinking back on the trip and remembering how fun it was reminds me that I met a lady that went there for 2 weeks and her luggage missed the flight. And if you've been reading about the Falklands you know there is only one flight per week so she had nothing to wear for a week. She did some shopping in Stanley where the choices were very, very limited. You may want to overdress for the flight just to be on the safe side.
Have a great trip!!
Cindy
Jun 2nd, 2012, 07:04 AM
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Cindy, many thanks for your detailed reply and great travel tips.
I have been in contact with the two agents listed on that webstite. Both are prompt when replying to emails and their itinerary are a little different. I asked both agents to provide references and I was surprised when they said they couldn't. I am having a very hard time trying to get information on the Falklands. I'm unlikely to ever have the chance to return to the Falklands, and I'd like to have the best trip possible.
I have been in contact with the two agents listed on that webstite. Both are prompt when replying to emails and their itinerary are a little different. I asked both agents to provide references and I was surprised when they said they couldn't. I am having a very hard time trying to get information on the Falklands. I'm unlikely to ever have the chance to return to the Falklands, and I'd like to have the best trip possible.
Jun 4th, 2012, 10:03 AM
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I wouldn't worry too much about references. If agents survive in the Falklands, they must be doing something right.
And there is a limit as to what they can do. The first post from Kavey gives a list of some of the best highlights.
Added to them, I would add Sea Lion Island - some describe it as the jewel in the crown, but there are many jewels. It is not cheap (but neither is getting to the Falklands), and few places allow you to see Gentoo penguins from your bedroom, and have elephant seals 5 minutes walk away. Plus Rockhopper + Magellanic, penguins, caracaras and orcas, etc, etc.
There should be lots of info from the tourism sites. I'd also try to get to Kidney Island if you are in Stanley for any time - breeding place for fur seals; sea lions and about 100,000 sooty terns; an "Attenborough" type of natural wonder! There are also penguins on the outskirts of Stanley and loads of dolphins in the harbour. Whales often seen nearby.
Having visited the Falklands at the end of a trip to Antarctica and South Georgia, I was prepared to be underwhelmed, but Carcass and West Point were among the highlights of a 3 week trip! I now live here, so if you want more information, feel free to ask.
And there is a limit as to what they can do. The first post from Kavey gives a list of some of the best highlights.
Added to them, I would add Sea Lion Island - some describe it as the jewel in the crown, but there are many jewels. It is not cheap (but neither is getting to the Falklands), and few places allow you to see Gentoo penguins from your bedroom, and have elephant seals 5 minutes walk away. Plus Rockhopper + Magellanic, penguins, caracaras and orcas, etc, etc.
There should be lots of info from the tourism sites. I'd also try to get to Kidney Island if you are in Stanley for any time - breeding place for fur seals; sea lions and about 100,000 sooty terns; an "Attenborough" type of natural wonder! There are also penguins on the outskirts of Stanley and loads of dolphins in the harbour. Whales often seen nearby.
Having visited the Falklands at the end of a trip to Antarctica and South Georgia, I was prepared to be underwhelmed, but Carcass and West Point were among the highlights of a 3 week trip! I now live here, so if you want more information, feel free to ask.
Jun 4th, 2012, 01:38 PM
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Thank you, mcwomble. I appreciate your offer of help.
I am debating between two different itineraries, here are the two itineraries in a nutshell:-
Itinerary 1,
Day 1, Arrive Falklands,
Day 2, Full day to Volunteer Point
Day 3, Flight to Carcass island
Day 4, Carcass Island
Day 5, Flight to Sea Lion Island
Day 6, Sea Lion Island
Day 7, Flight to Stanley
Day 8, Depart.
Itinerary 2,
Day 1, Arrive Falklands, land transfer to Darwin
Day 2, Darwin
Day 3, Flight to Port Howard
Day 4, Port Howard
Day 5, Fight to Sea Lion Island
Day 6, Sea Lion Island
Day 7, Flight to Stanley
Day 8, Depart.
Unfortunately, I only have a week to spend in the Falklands, and I'm wondering which of these two itineraries are best. I am keen on Volunteer Point and Sea Lion Island. Not sure if I'm better off visiting Darwin or Carcass Island. I will be travelling in October.
I am debating between two different itineraries, here are the two itineraries in a nutshell:-
Itinerary 1,
Day 1, Arrive Falklands,
Day 2, Full day to Volunteer Point
Day 3, Flight to Carcass island
Day 4, Carcass Island
Day 5, Flight to Sea Lion Island
Day 6, Sea Lion Island
Day 7, Flight to Stanley
Day 8, Depart.
Itinerary 2,
Day 1, Arrive Falklands, land transfer to Darwin
Day 2, Darwin
Day 3, Flight to Port Howard
Day 4, Port Howard
Day 5, Fight to Sea Lion Island
Day 6, Sea Lion Island
Day 7, Flight to Stanley
Day 8, Depart.
Unfortunately, I only have a week to spend in the Falklands, and I'm wondering which of these two itineraries are best. I am keen on Volunteer Point and Sea Lion Island. Not sure if I'm better off visiting Darwin or Carcass Island. I will be travelling in October.
Jun 4th, 2012, 05:31 PM
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Hi, I may have missed an earlier post, and I don't want to judge your itineraries.
But there is a world of difference between Darwin and Carcass Island. One is a large (for the Falklands) settlement of about 100 people (combined with Goose Green), and the other is a pristine island where most of the birds will approach YOU as they have no fear of Man.
Darwin's lovely, but it depends what you are looking for in your short trip? October should see the wildlife coming ashore and mating...
The road to Volunteer Point is currently closed, but it will open again when the new season arrives. The same goes for Sea Lion Island. (You can email the contact address for precise dates)
If I had to choose, I would go for Option 1 (but I don't know Port Howard). By the way, the domestic flights are very flexible, almost like a bus service. They read the passenger list out on the local radio the night before! They can usually accommodate any bookings...
But there is a world of difference between Darwin and Carcass Island. One is a large (for the Falklands) settlement of about 100 people (combined with Goose Green), and the other is a pristine island where most of the birds will approach YOU as they have no fear of Man.
Darwin's lovely, but it depends what you are looking for in your short trip? October should see the wildlife coming ashore and mating...
The road to Volunteer Point is currently closed, but it will open again when the new season arrives. The same goes for Sea Lion Island. (You can email the contact address for precise dates)
If I had to choose, I would go for Option 1 (but I don't know Port Howard). By the way, the domestic flights are very flexible, almost like a bus service. They read the passenger list out on the local radio the night before! They can usually accommodate any bookings...
Jun 5th, 2012, 03:17 AM
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http://www.falklandislandsholidays.c...fm?page_id=205
Hi,
That site gives an overview of what you can expect on each of the main islands, by month.....
And if anyone is upset about the Falklands being discussed on an African forum, I was 'conversing' with a safari manager in Tanzania the other day, and explaining where I was - "Oh, just off the west coast of Africa, then?", said he!
We have (sea) Lions, and Elephant (seals), so could be African.....
Hi,
That site gives an overview of what you can expect on each of the main islands, by month.....
And if anyone is upset about the Falklands being discussed on an African forum, I was 'conversing' with a safari manager in Tanzania the other day, and explaining where I was - "Oh, just off the west coast of Africa, then?", said he!
We have (sea) Lions, and Elephant (seals), so could be African.....
Jun 5th, 2012, 12:29 PM
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Apologies to the African forum for having this discussion on this forum.
I do appreciate your help mcwomble, I have reviewed the link you supplied. Still debating.......
Will think about this over the next few days and then book a package.
I do appreciate your help mcwomble, I have reviewed the link you supplied. Still debating.......
Will think about this over the next few days and then book a package.
Jun 6th, 2012, 12:36 AM
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You can find more info on the Audley travel company's website, and perhaps also check out http://www.falklandsconservation.com/ and http://www.falklandislands.com/.
(We booked with Audley as having looked into it, they seemed to be main UK agent for trips to FI and had staff who really knew the destination).
Your itinerary means a lot of moving around and short stays but I guess if you want to see the most possible in shortest time, you have no choice.
For me, and it's purely personal taste, I'd prefer to see the black browed albatross at West Point than the King Penguins at Volunteer Point BUT I have seen many Kings in South Georgia and we also had time with the small King colony at Saunders Island on the trip.
Oh and sometimes, Volunteer Point is CRAZY overrun with visitors from a cruise ship landing in Port Stanley which I would so so so not love.
I'd certainly suggest the remote islands, those with very low human population and high wildlife over places like Darwin...
(We booked with Audley as having looked into it, they seemed to be main UK agent for trips to FI and had staff who really knew the destination).
Your itinerary means a lot of moving around and short stays but I guess if you want to see the most possible in shortest time, you have no choice.
For me, and it's purely personal taste, I'd prefer to see the black browed albatross at West Point than the King Penguins at Volunteer Point BUT I have seen many Kings in South Georgia and we also had time with the small King colony at Saunders Island on the trip.
Oh and sometimes, Volunteer Point is CRAZY overrun with visitors from a cruise ship landing in Port Stanley which I would so so so not love.
I'd certainly suggest the remote islands, those with very low human population and high wildlife over places like Darwin...
