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Around The Middle East ... In Less Than 80 Days ... Maybe ????

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Around The Middle East ... In Less Than 80 Days ... Maybe ????

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Old Mar 15th, 2009, 09:47 AM
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Around The Middle East ... In Less Than 80 Days ... Maybe ????

In less than 2 hours I leave for Cairo (Delta JFK-CAI) with ... A backpack, some cash, a credit card, a Lonely Planet Guidebook and one night hotel reserved in Cairo. I have done some research on the Middle East and I think this is a good start for an independent frugal traveler. My adventure will begin with a good night sleep (Thanks to Tylenol PM) on my flight to Cairo .... I will hit the ground running in Cairo, First Stop The Egyptian Museum !!!
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Old Mar 15th, 2009, 01:20 PM
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Where else will you be stopping?
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Old Mar 16th, 2009, 02:34 AM
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Uneventful flight to Cairo. Ended up with a window seat and after dinner (chicken with Middle Eastern flavor) got a good 6-7 hour nap. Thanks Tylenol PM! Nice and friendly flight crew that provided myself and a few other passengers some "snacks" for the road ....

Custom and immigration very easy .. although if you do not have a visa buy it ($15US) before you stand in line. ATM available before immigration.

Took the local bus to town (2LE) compared to 40-50LE for a taxi and a much better experience. For bus .. exit Terminal 2 go across parking lot to bus terminal. It's bus 356 to Egyptian Museum but you will never find "356" .. buses are numbered in Arabic so just keep asking until you find the right one!

About an hour or so ride into town picking up many locals along the way most of them wearing "Levi's" which made me feel right at home.

Took a taxi to Hotel Longchamps ... paid more than I should have but just want to get there so I can begin my Cairo Day One ... Most taxi rides around the city should be no more than 10LE.

Hotel Longchamp came highly recommended and so far I am not dissappointed.

This afternoon I will be visiting the Museum, Khan al- Khalili and Fishawi's for a little "Seesha"...
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Old Mar 16th, 2009, 02:37 AM
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Will follow your adventure with great interest
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Old Mar 16th, 2009, 06:26 AM
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Thanks for your posts..can't wait to read more!
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Old Mar 16th, 2009, 01:08 PM
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Day One .. Cairo. Started with lunch at Abou El Sid (26th July, Zamalek) a short walk from Hotel Longchamps. Great atmosphere (like dining in a castle) with a friendly staff that spoke English but were willing to give Arabic lessons. Started with a cold draft "Stella".. the Egyptian beer along with "Foul" a delicious fava bean green peppers & onions mix. Main course .."Fettah" - Risotto, meat & bread with a tomato sauce. If I were in Italy, I would say "Mama mia". Delicious! Total cost about 100LE including tips.

All charged up I begin my walk to the Egyptian Museum crossing "The Nile" with smiles and hello's (Zi-Act) from kids even passing a band of singing teenagers along the way. I did not know what they were signing but I clapped and joined in to share their obvious happiness. Again, I felt right at home in Egypt.

Entrance to Museum 60LE with a nice ticket stub as a souvenir. Be sure to check your camera to the left of where you purchase your ticket before you enter the Museum.. NO PICTURES ALLOWED INSIDE.

Since I did not want to spend 9 months in the Museum (The time it would take if you spent just one minute at each display) I opted for a highlighted self-guided tour. Tour guides are available and range from 50-100LE. I chose to tour Room 32,37,42 - Ground Floor then Room 2,3,7,8 - First Floor. To stand in the midst of exhibits from 2-3000BC was awesome! Room 8 - TUTANKHAMUN was breathtaking and by far my favorite exhibit.

To the insanity of Cairo driving.. horns beeping, frequent near misses with cars and people.. I hop a taxi 10LE (after some bargaining .. most start at 20LE for tourist) to Khan Al- Khalili. If you are familiar with Canal Street in New York then multiply that experience by a thousand and you still have not reached the level of merchants and people buying and selling .. STUFF. How about an ongoing auction for clothes where the auctioner just tosses the clothes to the winning bidder or kids 5-8 years hawking merchandise.. in plain english, like the best salesman you have ever come across. I am not a shopper so I survived the experience without buying anything but along the way I was called everything from movie star to Obama and even Egyptian (which at this point I take as a compliment).

After much navigation around Khan Al-Khalil I make my way to "El Fishway" for tea and to experience "Sheesha". The tea I handled pretty well but it took a little help and a few laughs from the locals to get the "Sheesha" going. A worthwhile experience.

Another taxi ride to Midan Rameses(Train Station) to purchase tickets for a sleeper train to Luxor tomorrow night ... unfortunately no luck. You can only purchase train tickets at the station so do so at your earliest opportunity and leave your "Sheesha" experience for later.

Back at Longchamps a wonderful hotel with a great staff.. free breakfast, wi-fi and computer all for $54US per night. It is time to rest up (I think) for Cairo Day Two ... Pyramids, Felucca Cruise, More Cairo Dining and hopefully a sleeper train to Luxor.

Masa Lama (Bye)
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Old Mar 16th, 2009, 02:44 PM
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Day one in Cairo sounded great. I too loved my meal in Abou El Sid. The cost of a delicious feast is so reasonable! The Cairo Museum is fascinating and I loved the Khan. Can't wait to hear more.
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Old Mar 16th, 2009, 08:40 PM
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The Museum sounds great, glad you survived the merchants...I would love to see that, the people sound very nice. I think I would fit right in sounds like day one went very well..can't wait to read your day two travels..
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Old Mar 16th, 2009, 10:07 PM
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Sabah Elkhair (Good Morning) ....

Before retiring from Cairo Day One, I decided to take a midnight stroll around Zamalez to cross "The Nile" at night and give me sometime to again reflect on my experiences here. Along the way, I pass by an American "Hardee's" many Egyptian late night cafes with tea and "Sheesha" .. this time I resist the temptation.

In my experience, Egypt is safe and can be easily visited by an independent traveler. There is a police presence in most public places but it is more comforting than imposing. Freelance tour guides are easily available thru your hotel ($40US/Per 8 Hrs) or at tourist sites. Most taxi cab drivers will also give you their cellphone numbers ... I guess a cool thing for them to do. Graciously accept it and they will leave you alone.

Once here be sure to have lots of small change 1LE notes..it helps with your bargaining as most taxi drivers and street vendors msyteriously seem unable to make change.

I started my trip with $348US and 1500LE. After Day One... $333US.. 1255LE with no credit card transactions. Not bad for all that I have seen and enjoyed ... so far!

Time for breakfast ... To be continued.
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Old Mar 17th, 2009, 05:26 AM
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I am following your travels with great interest..
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Old Mar 17th, 2009, 08:49 AM
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Cairo Day Two .. From Karade, veal sausage and Egyptian pancakes to cheese, fruit and fresh squeeze orange breakfast was another delight in staying at Longchamps.

I check out after breakfast and leave my backpack with the front desk .. a nice convenience since I have a huge itinerary planned today.

I adventure for another taxi cab ride to Ramses Train Station to purchase my ticket for the overnight sleeping train to Luxor ... I am now convinced Egypt has the best drivers in the world as I have yet to witness an accident even after all the horn beeping and near misses. I think with a little investment I could produce the next "Mario Andretti"! After paying $60US I am good to go on the 8pm train to Luxor.

After somewhat helpful info from the tourist office, I play a little "Cairo Chicken" as I make my way to the bus stop. It was close but I won.

I wait about 20 minutes as numerous buses go by except the one I think I am looking for. In my best Arabic, helpless tourist mode I started asking for help ... Soon I am pointed to a bus packed like sardines with passsengers hanging out the main door .... I became one of them, who needs Disneyland! While I expected to make my way to Giza Pyramids by bus, my joy ride ended at the Giza Bus Roundabout. Another taxi ride was in my future.

On the way to Pyramids, taxi stopped for fuel and I was surprised it ran on natural gas. Totally price for a fill up 6LE.

I did not know quite what to expect at the Pyramids and was taken by cab driver to a local stable. The sales pitch began on the ride there so I was somewhat prepared for the assault when I got out of the cab. I managed a 2hr horse tour for $40US from a starting price of $80US... however by the time it was over it still cost me $80US including tips and a local lunch. I did avoid the after ride sales pitch at the local stores. That been said riding around the Pyramids on a spirited horse was fantastic with great photo opportunities. I even got to touch one of them but passed on the climb and interior tour. The sand was a little rougher than I expected and littered more than it should be. There are a few new digs going on that where interesting to see. I would certainly do it again but at a better price.

Unfortunately ... I must leave now so I don't miss my choo choo to Luxor! More on Cairo Day Two... Later.
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Old Mar 17th, 2009, 12:02 PM
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Hi DMcKB - sounds like you are having a real adventure. Having seen the buses in Cairo I don't know how anxious I would have been to ride them, or am I thinking of the minivans used for public transportation?

The pyramids are awesome, glad you enjoyed seeing them. Out of curiousity how did you fill up 2 hours on horseback? We seemed to spend less time there, but of course we were driven around on a tour bus and got out at each to walk around them.

The cook in me is wondering what pancakes Egyptian style are like. They served pancakes in the Cairo Marriott but they were the same as those served in US.

Looking foward to your next post.
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Old Mar 18th, 2009, 09:10 AM
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Hi Jeserysusan ... Yes, so far Egypt has been a real adventure. Egptyian pancakes were more like crepes cut it quarters with chocolate or strawberry sauce available as a topping. My horseback tour was about 2 hrs start to finish. We entered a back gate to clear security and took our time riding the length of the three large pyramid stopping for pictures and short excursions. I think I mounted and dismounted about 4-5 times ...whew!
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Old Mar 18th, 2009, 09:49 AM
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Cario Day Two ... continued.

After a bus ride back to Giza I find the Giza Metro (1LE) for a trip to Old Cairo. Besides the "sardine effect" the metro is easy to navigate though I do miss the excitement of A "Cairo Taxi Ride". After a train change at SADAT STA, a few stops later I exit the train at Old Cairo. Here is the Coptic Museum, Hanging Church, A Synagouge and St. George .. where it is believe Joseph took Mary and Baby Jesus when they fleed to Egypt. I stand in the spot were Jesus may have played as a toddler .. wow! While at Old Cairo I also witness a group prayer ceremony and a ritual involving the chains of St. George who was tortured for his faith.

Old Cairo gave me the opportunity to visit a church, a synagouge and a mosque ... I apprecaite the beauty and peacefulness that they all offer. Outside the mosque, I spend a few minutes playing soccer with kids near by.

If I had a particular destination in mind I would say I got lost many times as I left Old Cairo walking North .. I think toward Cairo. Thru narrow streets and dusty alleyways I witnessed everyday Egyptian life. A father picking his daughter up from school, kids at play, street mechants at work.. Egyptians going about their every day life.

Soon I am in fruit market and 4LE later I have about 3 pounds of guavas. Next I am picking samples of various breads from a local bakery and easily part with 1LE happy with my selections.

Before I know it my time is running short and I am back on the Metro towards my hotel. I get to play "Cairo Chicken" a few more times along the way, so far I am still winning!

After a farewell visit I leave my "Cario Home and hop a taxi to Giza Station for my trip to Luxor.

At the train station the personnel are friendly. I sit back enjoy a few guavas and watch the local trains come and go. I think my $60US for a sleeper car will have been well spent.

8:20pm ... ALL ABOARD. Next stop Luxor!
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Old Mar 19th, 2009, 02:52 AM
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Were you in the Giza Station posting that last bit? How did you do that? What equipment do you have with you that you have all that capability? You aren't doing it on an iphone, are you?
I'm impressed.
LMAO when you talk about spending $40-$80 (LE220 to LE440) for a horseback ride, but then taking the LE2 bus from the airport as transportation because it is inexpensive. I guess riding the bus gives you the dosh for an expensive horse ride? hehehe It's OK - it's all an adventure. Keep writing - we are engaged now and enjoying it immensely.
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Old Mar 19th, 2009, 09:16 AM
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Casual Cairo ... Yes it's all an adventure and I hope others learn from my experiences that's why I am posting. There are bargains and ripoffs everywhere but I take it as the Yeng and Yang of Independent Travel. I could have spent $140US per night at the Nile Hilton but I don't think I would have been any more pleased than my $54US per night at Hotel Longchamps or $11US per night at Hotel Nerefetti in Luxor. I am having such a great time enjoying your country even after an expensive horseback ride that I have hardly been able to keep up with my postings. I am glad you are enjoying them. My trip to Luxor will be posted soon but for now I will get back to enjoying Dahab ... a little "Sheesha" might be in order.
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Old Mar 19th, 2009, 02:52 PM
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Really enjoying this - my kind of travel. Especially interested in the upcoming ME bit!
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Old Mar 21st, 2009, 10:15 PM
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TRAIN

Promptly after leaving Giza, a tasty dinner which includes rice, fish, slices of beef, bread, salad and dessert is served "Airplane Style" in my cabin. Drinks are not included so I enjoy my dinner with a self imported Heineken.

It's a 9-10 hour journey to Luxor,time to relax and find out what Detective Bosch is up to .. "The Closers" by M. Connelly.

I am booked in a double cabin but end up alone. The train is comfortable with bathrooms that are relatively clean and I don't have to give a tip (1LE) to use them.

I sleep relatively good the first 4 hours then drift in and out until I am served breakfast about 30 minutes from Luxor. Breakfast consists of an assortment of flavorful breads and pasteries served with orange juice.

The sun is slowing rising as we arrive at Luxor ...5:40AM

Past "The Luxor Welcoming Committee", I along with a fellow backpacker begin a 15 minute walk to Hotel Nefertiti. We ignore.. "Taxi" and "Nice Hotel" offers along the way.

6:00AM ... I check in and schedule two tours for the day. Pick up time for the first tour ... 7:45AM

My room is clean with a large bed, private balcony and a very interesting bathroom. The toliet and shower occupy the same space! I think it would be a challenge to use both at the same time. A short nap, quick "HOT" shower and I am off on my West Bank tour (80LE).
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Old Mar 22nd, 2009, 01:09 AM
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AUTOMOBILE

WEST BANK TOUR ... Enroute to "Valley of The Kings" we pass rich farmlands and large sugar cane fields. We are amused to see a few locals trying to capture a couple of donkeys that have escaped from a sugar cane wagon. It is common to see donkeys not much bigger than "Scooby Doo" pulling large wagons of people and stuff around. No wonder "A Donkey Prison Break" is in progress.

Soon "The Natural Pyramid" appears in the distant landscape. It is one of the reasons this area was chosen as a royal burial ground.

Valley of Kings has over 60 tombs. The most famous, King Tut's discoverd in 1922. There is still active excavation here.

Visitor's Center has nice display and short video. 117LE fee allows you to visit 3 tombs with certain tombs like King Tut's costing an additional fee.

It is HOT, DRY and DUSTY ... bring water and snacks.

KV-2 Rameses IV has a well perserved tomb history .. it's my favorite. NO PICTURES OR TOUR GUIDES allowed in tombs. The lenght of tomb represents the lenght of Pharoah's life that is buried there.

After a short visit to a local shop where we are given a history lesson and demonstration (along with souvenir sales pitch) of stones used in ancient Egypt, we next visit Deir al Bahri. Dedicated to the most powerful female ruler of Egypt much of it's rich history remains.

There is a cafe in the shade but with tourist prices.

At both sites you will have to ward off souvenir sellers as you exit.

Our tour ends with the viewing of two 54 feet tall statues that once guarded Egypt's largest temple ... Colossi of Memnon.

Lunch is at Sam Elasel in Luxor. Kushiri(rice,pasta,beans), Chicken Sharma(warm bread,peppers,onions) and a cool Hibiscus drink is a delicious bargain at 12LE ... less than $3US!
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Old Mar 22nd, 2009, 01:36 AM
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AUTOMOBILE

EAST BANK TOUR .... A 1500 year project with some areas still incomplete, we are visiting Temples of Karnak. With 134 giantic pillars most over 50 feet tall... TEMPLE OF KARNAK is A MUST VISIT while in Luxor. You will be in awe by what is left of it's original magnificence ... something that seems from "Another World".

In less than an hour the sun will be setting and this is best viewed from "The Nile". There is no haggling as we find a felucca captain that will make this possible. It is delightful to watch Capt. Hasan(From Sweden .. brown eyes) skillfully manuever his boat onto The Nile. There is little wind so we are tuggd down river to navigate the current back to our launch site. I get to be Capt. Don(From Bahamas), even rowing at times. I don't think I will make The Egyptian Felucca Olympic Team.

Masa Lama (Good bye) to Capt. Hasan and I begin my walk back to my hotel. This time I pass kids interestly playing soccer with oranges and lemons!

A souvenir shop stop and I am involved in an engaging conversation with the shop owner. "What you pay .. 15LE?" .."Free" I counter offer. I don't get a bargain but I do get a "Free" bead and "Egyptian Magic" analysis of my name. He is 62% right about my personality .. not bad since the other 38% I am not even sure about.

Most tours to Luxor are one day trips with return to Cairo and other destinations by night buses or trains. From a fellow backpacker, I learn that I could possibly be on my way to Dahab tonight!

Dahab and Sham el Sheik on Sinai has had numerous terrorist attacks in recent years but this does not deter me from visiting.

8:00PM ... I pay 60LE($11US) and make a conditional (I might be back) check out. I hop a shared taxi (20LE) to the airport for a flight to Sharm el. The taxi ride is not as exciting as in Cairo.
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