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Old Oct 3rd, 2006, 12:12 PM
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African safaris: Kenya safari 15 day

I am trying to organize a 2 week trip in Kenya but there are several dilemmas.
1) Lamu vs. Mombasa
2) Mount Serena Lodge vs. Ark
3) Amboseli or Tsavo?(considering that i will be going to Maasai and Samburu)
4) Is Sweetwaters camp worth spending a day
5) How many days per safari location?
6) Best mid-range lodge in Maasai Mara.
7) best way to transition over to teh coast from the northwest parks.

As you see I am thoroughly confused would appreciate your suggestions what can be omitted and what is an absolutely must see?
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Old Oct 3rd, 2006, 12:28 PM
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When is your trip? I have never been to Africa, but had booked a trip with Eastern and Southern Safari for a 13 day Safari for August 2007 in Kenya. These are my understanding after reading this forum and working with tour operators, not from personal experiences.
1. I am not going to either Lamu or Mombasa.
2. From what I understand, you get the same salt-lick experience in both Mt. Serena Lodge and the Ark, but you can drive right up to the front of the Serena Lodge. More convenient.
3. Most people on this forum are not crazy about Amboseli, especially if you are going to Samburu and the Maasai. Don't know much about Tsavo, it was too far out of the way for a driving safari.
4. I am spending one day in Sweetwaters to break up the drive from Samburu to Lake Nakuru. There are night game drives in Sweetwaters, I think it is the only one on my itinerary.
5. I have 2 days in Samburu and 5 days in Maasai Mara, the rest (Mt. Serena Lodge, Sweetwaters, Lake Nakuru) are one-day stays.
6. I am staying 3 nights in Mara Serena and 2 nights in Little Governors. I think Mara Serena is a bit cheaper then LG. Great reviews on Mara Serena especially if you are going in August/September for the migration, it has the best location.

I booked a private safari with the same guide/driver throughout the trip, except in Little Governors where I have to use their guide and driver. I am flying from Littlel Governors back to Nairobi at the end of my trip, the rest is all driving.

Hope this helps.

Pat
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Old Oct 3rd, 2006, 12:40 PM
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You may get a number of diffrent views so prepare to be confused ! Mine are as follows :

1) Lamu more pleasant than Mombasa but also more difficult to get to and, generally, more expensive hotels

2) Ark better for me (at least animal wise) although Mountain Lodge better accomodation

3) Suggest Tsavo West if you're going to Mara and Samburu unless you want to see Kilimanjaro

4) I've visited and enjoyed Sweetwaters but would spend more time at the other places - one night at each place looks good on an itinery but is really tiring !

5) Preferably 2 days minimum except Ark / Mountain Lodge ok for 1 day. Personally I would consider 3 nights at each of Mara and Samburu instead of Tsavo / Amboseli

6) Depends what you mean by mid range. Serena is good at about $180 pppn including park fees.

7) I would try to do Mara last - from there you can fly direct to Mombasa or get easy connections via Nairobi. From Samburu you would have to go via Nairobi but less flights.

Hope this helps.

Phil
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Old Oct 3rd, 2006, 01:04 PM
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Hi Shmoulie,
1) Lamu. Nothing wrong with Mombasa though.
2) Don’t know, but from what Phil says I’d choose the Ark.
3) I love Tsavo East.
4) Probably, but with limited time it would be better spent in the Mara.
5) A minimum of 4 in the Mara, Samburu or Tsavo, and that’s far too short.
6) All lodges are horrendously expensive.
7) Depends.

I’m kind of tired and I think I’ll be able to give you better answers tomorrow…

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Old Oct 3rd, 2006, 01:27 PM
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First, when do you plan to travel?
What kind of budget do you have?
A drive only, fly only or combo fly/drive?

1) Either, depending on what it is you're looking for. Easier to get to Mombasa and wider choice of resorts; Lamu more exotic and can be somewhat expensive, but then not.

2) Prefer Serena Lodge as the Ark is a bit worn. Easier to just drive up to the Serena, rather than a transfer to/from the Ark.

3) If looking for elephant experience, you can find at Samburu; here also unique species not found elsewhere.

It's no so much Amboseli vs Tsavo... you just don't have sufficient time to visit everywhere.

4) Sweetwaters is a good stop if driving between Samburu and Lake Nakuru. A lovely property on private conservation land, so night drives done here; also the Chimp Sanctuary.

5) Minimum 2, though if driving you can extend Samburu to 3/days; Sweetwater's is fine for 1/nt. The Mara definitely minimum 3/days, though 4/days if you have the time.

6)Best? on location? Size? services? Can vary. Most opt for the Serena for it's position, but because others seeking mid-range also, you've got competition so one has to think and plan way ahead especially if looking for 3 or 4 consecutive days. But there are other choices.

7) Can fly to Mombasa or the overnight train. Can fly to Lamu or road transfer from Mombasa; the latter though is long.

It's not really a dilemma, but as above, it's difficult to get it all in, so you have to decide on the "musts."
 
Old Oct 4th, 2006, 04:12 AM
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Thank you all for your replies...it's aleardy a step ahead...

Well, my concern is since I only have2 weeks to really see the absolutely musts. I know that opinions vary but then again there are usually some rules..

1)On the Lamu vs. Mombasa. My worry ince it's the first time in Kenya is to cover the priority sights, so which one offers more? Lamu I was told is far and dirty.

2)I get from the answers that Mt. Serena is probably preferable.

3) On tsavo vs. Amboseli this goes back to my intro? I cannot see both most likely so what will add teh most value/difefrent sightings in this trip?I was attracted to Tsavo because of the lava flows to say the truth, plus I like desert-like scenery.I suppose I can see the KIilimanjaro from teher, too. Amboseli on the other hand seems so well known, is it just because of the mountain view?

4) still not sure? what is special/different about Sweetwaters compared to other sights in the area?

5)I guess it's clear that Maasai should be a priority in terms of days

6)...anyone stayed at keekorok or the intrepids?

7) Any idea how much it costs to fly let's say to mombasa from maasai Mara directly? (cause then i could maybe drive back to Nairobi through tsavo.)

A couple of yet additional remarks. I absolutely want to see hell's gate..any views on that? What's teh difference between Tsavo east and tsavo west? Shaba and Samburu? pros cons?

Thank you so much you already helped a lot.


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Old Oct 4th, 2006, 08:49 AM
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i'm late to this but visited kenya twice this summer, for 10 days and then for a week.

i am not sure what you are expecting from mombasa, but i visited mombasa, diani and watamu and still am not sure what i "saw" apart from a beach, and learning a bit of culture. i needed the beach after my volunteer service, but as a tourist, what are you seeking? that should help answer your question about "which beach."

the flights from nairobi to the coast, in general, run about $300 r/t. i would expect the charter flights to be in that neighborhood.

i chose ambolseli over the objections (friendly, playful) of most people on this board. amboseli sightings in 3 days were far more plentiful than my 4 days (10 game drives) in the mara. i needed to see the "postcard view" of kilimanjaro. again, ask yourself the question what is it YOU are hoping to see? why did YOU CHOOSE kenya? it's your trip!

once you figure out the answers, the true experts on the board can be extremely helpful.

have fun
kerikeri
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Old Oct 4th, 2006, 08:51 AM
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1) Lamu is expensive to get to if you don't have lots of time and have to fly, but there's a much wider choice of good budget and midrange accommodation than at any beach place to the north or south of Mombasa. Lamu is a more unique experience than Mombasa. Dirty? Yes, don't go there if street cleanliness is a top priority. I hope it's not.
3) If you're going to the coast, the Mara, Samburu and Mount Kenya or Aberdares you won't have that much time for more parks, unless you have lots of one- and two-nighters, which I don't recommend. If you go to Tsavo East you'll be more than halfway to Mombasa though.
6) The Serena is somewhat more reasonably priced than other accommodation in the western Mara and it has the best location. Near Talek Gate are Basecamp, Ilkeliani and Fig Tree. I can thoroughly recommend Basecamp, but some might find it too close to Talek Town. Keekorok might be good as well, but everyone in the east of the Mara goes there for game drives and it can get crowded. Intrepids is more expensive.
7) With Mombasa Air Safari it costs $229. http://www.mombasaairsafari.com/

If you want to see Hell's Gate you'll have to go to Lake Naivasha. Tsavo West is hillier than Tsavo East. The West has Shetani Lava Flows and Mzima Springs while the East has the Galana River with Lugard's Falls, the Sheldrick's orphanage for older elephant babies that are being reintroduced to the wild and Mudanda Rock and there are some very nice tented camps. Samburu is considered better for game viewing than Shaba and Shaba has only two lodges.
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Old Oct 4th, 2006, 08:56 AM
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And 2 weeks are not enough to see the "musts". Follow Kerikeri's advice and ask yourself what you are looking for.
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Old Oct 4th, 2006, 11:42 AM
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hello again,
thank you for the extra advice...the problem is that I did not choose to go to Kenya...I will so happen to be there and want of course to not miss the opportunity to see the country...
when you go to Paris you go see the Eiffel tower..so this is my approach to this trip I want to see the eiffel towers of kenya..
Mombasa and lamu, it's not the beaches I am looking for but rather the actual sights that will give me a sense of the history, culture and people of Kenya. (again the logic of seeing the Eiffel tower)

My plan right now looks like:
pass from lake naivasha,2 nights lake nakuru, 2 nights samburu,1 night mt. serena lodge,3 nights maasai,1 Tsavo west, 1 tsavo east,3 Mombasa and 1 nairobi.

I am not sure whether this order and these days per park would be good.Would apprecaite further guidance..

Would one day in each Tsavo be enough to see the main attractions in terms of scenery as Nyamera described on my way to Mombasa?(how many hours is it from Nairobi?)

On the above schedule the alternatives are Lamu, Amboseli and Sweetwaters. Please feel free to give me further comments.
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Old Oct 4th, 2006, 12:18 PM
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I think you're moving around too much and I would probably cut out Tsavo and add at least one more night to the Mara and more to Nairobi (based upon what you're saying you want). I think it's hard to compare Paris...since I agree with you that there are distinct musts in Paris...to Kenya where everyone's wants/needs are different. Some people LOVE seeing game and want to be out all day. Some prefer culture and try to visit many villages. Some want to experience more of the city. But I don't think there are must sees (maybe with the exception of the Mara). If you're not that fussed about seeing animals, than I'd also alter your trip accordingly.

In terms of recommendations on where to stay in the Mara that are midrange...I agree with another poster...Basecamp is great! I would not advise Ilkeliani or Fig Tree.
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Old Oct 4th, 2006, 12:21 PM
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A “classic” itinerary would be: Mt Kenya-Samburu-Nakuru/Naivasha-the Mara. Then, to avoid being on the Nairobi-Mombasa highway after dark, you’d have to spend a night in Nairobi before going to Tsavo. One day in each Tsavo is not enough! Mombasa is some 8 hours from Nairobi.

The Eiffel Towers of Kenya are the Big 5 – elephant, lion, rhino, leopard and buffalo.
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Old Oct 4th, 2006, 12:29 PM
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You'll need more than 2 weeks or cut something out. I’d skip the coast.
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Old Oct 4th, 2006, 07:35 PM
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are you seeing the rift valley? i'd consider that a must see.

when you are in masai mara, you must visit a masai village, that would be on the order of an eiffel tower visit.

if you do go to a beach, be sure to see a camel. that's pretty iconic east african.

if you're one of those out of africa type african people, then you have to do the karen circuit in nairobi- specifically the sheldrick orphanage and tea/coffee at the coffee garden, even if you skip the boring blixen museum. this will give you that fake out of africa memory. rent the movie first (wish i had).

mombasa is historic and they have some nice ruins and a museum, but lamu is a world heritage site, so you may want to factor that into your decision making versus mombasa.

kerikeri
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Old Oct 4th, 2006, 10:06 PM
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..hmmm...this goes back to me being confused..I want to see animals of course which I guess with this itinerary I will hopefully get to see some...but it's also very very important to me to see villages and any interesting nature spots (i.e., death valley or yosemite type nature hotspots) as I said that was mainly my driver for wanting tsavo in. Plus if Kenya is like the US in terms of nature diversity,it's just nice to drive around.

What would be the most interesting sights in the rift valley (as kerikeri mentions)besides hell's gate?

So Mombasa(and Nairobi) do not qualify as the London or Paris of Kenya, meaning cities where it is simply worth walking around just because they are what they are.( I probably sound like an ignorant westerner,I really have no idea about what to expect in Africa.)

In an attempt to summarize...

since time is an essence Sweetwaters is definitely staying out then, unless you point out a good reason for it staying in.

I keep samburu,naivasha,lake nakuru,maasai mara wich probably will cover let's say 8 days give or take ..I am left with 4-5 days that I need to find a place(s) for.I mean to be realistic I will most likely never be going back to kenya..hence this stress to just do everything and not regret going there and having missed on sth.
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Old Oct 5th, 2006, 12:36 AM
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My Kenya safari was nine years ago, but it might help if I approve of the progress you've made so far. Samburu, yes (minimum 3 nights, for wildlife and Samburu culture); the Ark or similar, only maybe...I wouldn't bother doing it again, but driving through the Aberdares is certainly interesting; the Rift Valley, yes (two nights, maybe three...Lakes Elmenteita and Nakuru or similar); the drive from Nakuru through the Kericho tea plantation area to the Mara fills an interesting day; the Mara, definitely three nights, maybe more (wildlife and Maasai bomas). I'd give Nairobi a couple of nights at least...city chaos, African-style, is a wonderful contrast to city chaos, Paris-style, and there are places to see, like the national museum and Karen Blixen's former home. If there's time left over, take in Tsavo. I wouldn't bother with the coast. I'm not saying you wouldn't enjoy it, it's just not something I would include.

John
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Old Oct 5th, 2006, 12:42 AM
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Hi John,

I can't imagine you in Zanzibar or Mombasa as part of your next East Africa trip.....

Hari
 
Old Oct 5th, 2006, 07:34 AM
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the museum was closed for renovations when i was there this summer, so you may want to check.

i have an idea as the weekend approaches.

please go plop down in the travel section of a local bookshop and peruse some kenya and east africa books, especially the glossy portions where the photos are.

i think FODORs excels in giving you the "if you have this many days, do this" suggestions at the front of their guide books.

other books give you lots of pretty pictures.

i hope that helps you narrow your choices.

kerikeri
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Old Oct 5th, 2006, 08:03 AM
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..and the problem is that safari operators do not really cut down much on my choices...

let me approach this differently: I want to do:
1)Mt serena for the nightsightings of animals
2)samburu: for the diversity of animals and the samburu people
3)lake nakuru: for the flamingos
4)lake naivasha: for hell's gate (hoping sth between death valley and grand canyon)
5)maasai for the people and the animals
6)tsavo west for the sheitani lava flow and the mzima springs
7)tsavo east for the luggard falls and the rock
8)mombasa for fort jesus, the indian ocean and to see what african cities are like
9)lamu for the swahili architecture and the indian ocean.

yes, i do need the gudiance if I have that many days what to do with them....
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Old Oct 5th, 2006, 10:16 AM
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For interesting nature spots and diversity, I recommend that you drive through Aberdare National Park on your way from Samburu to Naivasha. There's some gorgeous scenery and waterfalls and the park provides a completely contrasting environment.

We did this drive last year and you can read about it in my trip report (day 6) http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34719569 and photos #57-77 in this album were taken in the Aberdares http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=...&y=-r5e7ji

We stayed outside of the park but you can overnight at the Ark if you want a night viewing experience. See if you can arrange to have your driver pick you up the following morning directly from the Ark to continue your journey to the other side of the park rather than having to shuttle back to Aberdare Country Club. Take a picnic lunch so you can make your way leisurely through the park. Once you exit at Mutubio gate on the southwest side, you're about an hour and a half from Lake Naivasha.

Amy did this drive with an overnight at the Ark (traveling the opposite direction) http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34854664

Samburu, Aberdares, Rift Valley lakes, and the Mara makes a logical circuit. I definitely don't think that you have time to see everything on your list unless each location gets the most cursory of visits which I don't recommend. If you really want to include Tsavo, I'd skip the coast. If you don't want to eliminate either, you'll need to skip one of the other major parks on your itinerary.
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