13 days in Morocco
 

Hello, we are planning a trip to Morocco in 2 weeks! I'd appreciate any feedback on this plan, especially regarding renting a car vs hiring a driver/guide. Also any thoughts about the amount of time in each place, and best places to stay during the second half of the trip? Recommendations for an outfitter to arrange the desert camp?
Day 1 Arrive Marakech 20:00
Day 2 Marakech
Day 3 Marakech
Day 4 Marakech
Day 5 afternoon train to Fes
Day 6 Fes
Day 7 Fes
Day 8 Fes
Day 9 Drive to Merzouga (Ifrane, Erfoud)- overnight in desert camp
Day 10 desert (overnight in desert camp)
Day 11 Todra Gorge, Dades Gorge (overnight in Dades Gorge or Ourzazate?)
Day 12 ait Haddou, high Atlas mts- Overnight in Marakech? or on the way?
Day 13 Essaouria
Day 14 return Marakech, late evening return flight
thanks for your suggestions!

We spent 1 month in Marrakech a few years before the pandemic. We did both--drove ourselves and used 1 driver to take us from Marrakech through the desert and ending in Fes. We drove ourselves from Marrakech to Essaouria and down south to parts where you aren't going. We did drive ourselves in the High Atlas mountains. Fun! In Fes we had a driver take us northwards.
Essaouria was one of my favorite places and I would spend more than 1 day there.

Thanks so much for the feedback! Where did you go in the High Atlas?

Thanks so much for the feedback! Where did you go in the High Atlas?

Just some thoughts
"we are planning a trip to Morocco in 2 weeks
Understand that you are going during Ramadan. This means all but tourist shops and restaurants will be either closes from sunup to sunrise or just closed for the entire month. This includes the non tourist cafes, which is one of the joys of Morocco.
It is an almost 7 hour train ride so the afternoon 4:50 train arrives close to midnight. This makes getting to your accommodations hard and if a riad in the medina a nightmare experience of being lost in the alleys of the Medina.
Better you take the 11:50 AM train and get to Fes at 6:15 PM. At least you will arrive with some daylight.
Day 9 this is a dawn to dusk drive with rest stops. Pack food and drink as you might have problems finding any restaurant opened. You could break it in 2 by adding Midelt or even stopping in Azrou and see Volubilis (roman city ruins and museum), Ifraine, Mouley Idress and the wild Barbary apes in the Ceder Forest just outside Azrou.
You could lose a day in Fes easily enough.
I would overnight in a hotel 1st night in the dune area (not the Sahara desert) then take a 4x4 tour of the desert area next day ending at your tenting for last night with camel ride to see the dunes at sunset.
You could easily overnight in Ouarzazate. If you do this you will have time to see both Ait Ben Haddou and Telouet.
wikipedia.org/wiki/Telouet_Kasbah
Other suggestion is to do Essaouira in the middle of your Marrakech trip (2 nights is better, again you can easily lose a day in Fes). then you can relax your last 2 days in Marrakech and recover from your long drives on the desert trip.
Side trips from Marrakech ...
Ozoud falls (5 or 6 hours total drive but it is a great drive and the falls are amazing).
Ourika (there are smaller falls here you could walk to) , you could add lake Lala and the Agafay badlands to this.
Imlil lovely Berber village in the Atlas mountains.
No real good way to do the desert part with out renting a car, hiring a car and driver or joining a group sardine tour.
Hope this gives you a start.

I have a trip report on the board after working with a lovely driver, Salem Karaoui, who has a company, Moroccan-Family. He and his brother run the company and have since opened a camp, which seems to get excellent reviews. Several people have used his services on this board and have been very happy with their trips.

Here is the website: https://moroccan-family.com/tours-safaris/

My trip report, in case you want to see any of the locations:
https://www.fodors.com/community/afr...urney-1653790/

Thanks for the detailed response, Comicman!

Loved your trip report, Progol! Looks like our itinerary is fairly similar, though we are skipping Chefchouen. I had already contacted Salem! saw the company recommended by others.
Is there anything you would have skipped? or places you wish you had more time?

Like yestravel said, Essaouria was one of our favorite stops. We could've easily stayed another night or 2. We were only there one night, though had most of the arrival day and part of the departure day. It really was a lovely place and so much less hectic than elsewhere.

Chefchaouen would've been the place I would've eliminated, so it looks like we're on the same page!

The biggest problem with Chefchaouen is simply the large amount of travel time to get there and back. I just do not think it offers enough to be worth losing an entire day of your holiday to visit here. Plus these days it is just to commercial and crowded for me.
I tend to advise getting a private car and driver over getting a tour company. As long as you have the time and are willing to plan your tour you can save maybe half just using a car and driver and making your plans with the driver.. In the end you might even up with the same car and driver going with a tour company as they usually farm you out to a professional official tourist driver that you could hire on your own for a lot less.

Thanks, Comicman. Organized tours aren't for us....We are looking into getting a driver (Salem, from Morocco Family tours, whom Progol and others recommended). Weighing this against renting a car and doing the trip from Fes back to Marrakech (via Margouza, Todra Gorges, Dades, Ouarzazate etc.) by ourselves. Don't know yet how much Morocco Family tours will charge for those 5 days- should get his proposal today.
Any thoughts re: driving ourselves vs going with a driver? I understand the roads are ok for a regular vehicle (except the Margouza- Erg Chebbi segment, where you need 4 X 4 for the desert...).

Hi Progol, I just heard back from Salem at Moroccan family tours. The price for 5 days and 4 nights (Fes to Marakech via Merzouga, Dades etc) is $1145 per person (and we are a couple). Seems very high! Does this sound right? Includes touring, accommodations and meals.
Is this the going rate for a driver/tour guide + accommodations?

I can’t speak to the rates as it’s been 5 years and I know prices have gone up since we traveled. What you are getting is custom service with everything included. Are there options in the accommodations that might make it less expensive? I know Salem to be very professional as well as a lovely person.

If this is too much for you, perhaps see what it would cost for booking just a driver and then booking the accommodations on your own.

"The price for 5 days and 4 nights (Fes to Marakech via Merzouga, Dades etc) is $1145 per person"
This is very expensive. Even staying at higher end hotels the hotels including breakfast and gourmet dinners would only be around 100.00 a night (1000 Dh) would only be 400.00.
The drivers I use, are more in the 150 to 160 Euro per day. But as you are doing one way you might have to add 150 to 200 Euro for the driver to get back home (or to get to you).
400 (hotel) + 800 (driver) + 200 (one way cost) =1400 for the 2 of you. This is a guess but I think a good guess.
I usually hire the car and driver then book my own hotels, so I can have control of where I stay.
All though you do not need a 4x4 for this trip many of the car and drivers have this anyways. The plus here is that they can take you on some off road side trips (should be included).
Though personally I would rent a car and do this self catering ... but I love to drive so this is me.
Remember that there would be a one way fee to cover the car rental company sending an employee (7 to 10 hours travel time) to Marrakech to collect the car and then drive it back and cover the fuel costs. But this will still be cheaper then a car and driver.
I am glad you are taking 4 nights as a 3 night trip you are driving most of your daylight hours.
But a car and driver could be a more relaxing trip. So both are good.
If you do rent make sure to get the insurance from the actual agency you use.
I hope this helps.

"If this is too much for you, perhaps see what it would cost for booking just a driver and then booking the accommodations on your own."
Great Minds Think Alike.
You posted your answer while I was composing mine
Edit ..
By the way I am impressed at your eye for taking pictures and been enjoying your lovely photos of Morocco. Envious in that I do not have as good an eye to get such nice pictures.

Thanks Progol and Comicman!

any recommendations for drivers ?

manu, I have no suggestions for drivers as Salem was our driver. One thought I have would be to ask him whether he could provide just a driver and whether that would be more reasonably priced for you.

Comicman, I’m glad you enjoyed my “visual trip report”. Morocco was one of the most visually stimulating trips we’ve ever taken! The diversity of the landscape really was amazing.

@ Progol
Do you remember the name of the palace museum like riad (I am gonna guess it was in Fes) that you stayed at?

Dar Seffarine
https://darseffarine.com

One of the most amazing places we stayed in. I didn’t really want to leave - staying and staring at our room was enough of a treat. The food was excellent, too.

It looks amazing. I have added it to my places to stay.
Big TY.

Thanks to all for the input, @Comicman and @Progol.
Despite the rave reviews for Morrocan Family, we have decided to go with Desert Majesty for a 5 day trip from Fes to Marrakech through Merzouga, etc-- v big price difference! and it turns out it does not really save too much to book our own hotels.

So here is the revised plan:
Day 1 Arrive Marakech 20:30- taxi directly to Essaouria
Day 2 Essaouria
Day 3 Essaouria- Marakech
Day 4 Marakech
Day 5 Marakech
Day 6 train to Fes
Day 7 Fes
Day 8 Fes
Day 9 Fes
Day 10 Drive to Merzouga with Desert Majesty - overnight in desert camp
Day 11 desert (overnight in desert camp)
Day 12 Todra Gorge, (overnight possibly at Auberge le Festival)
Day 13 Dades, Ait Ben Haddou, (overnight possibly at Auberge Ayouze)
Day 14 Teleouet, return Marrakech for late evening flight

Hotels- in Marrakech- booked Dar Rocmarra, and in Fes, Le Grand Alcazar.
Any tweaking recommended?
Thanks again, getting excited!

That looks like a good trip. I hope you enjoy yourself. I'm sure you will be fine with another company. I don't recall who we used but our driver/guide was fine.

"it turns out it does not really save too much to book our own hotels."
It is more having control of the places you stay over someone who does not know you well making these choices. I will add that getting your car and driver or travel company in this loop can add a lot as they know the on the ground of many hotels. Sometimes they can even negotiate you a better price as they know many hotel management.
It is always my advice that you should get involved in the planing as in the end you get a more magical trip. You should (and you are) asking questions from those that have taken these trips before as well.
"Day 1 Arrive Marakech 20:30- taxi directly to Essaouria"
How are you doing the taxi or did you arrange a transfer? Another alternative is to take the number 19 bus right from the airport which will stop at the train station / Supratours bus station and can get the very comfortable Essaouira bus. This is a bit more hassle but much cheaper @ about 10 Euros (100 Dh) each. There are quite a few buses a day. But if not on a budget getting picked up at the airport and relaxing as you are driven to Essaouira can be a plus.
You will be happy you have 2 nights in Essaouira.
Going back the bus could be a better option as it will save a lot over taxi (car and driver think in the 120 to150 Euro range and taxi (harder option especially if you can not speak french as you have to negotiate the price) should be on the taxi price sign just across the terminal from where you exit and before the taxi men. You should be able to get that set price. It includes your luggage for free. You might get the return trip to Marrakech for less.
I looked at Dar Rocmarra and I do not know this place but the location in the Dar Bacha neighborhood is a plus making finding it at night easier. There is a lot in that location and it is a not bad walk to where you can get a taxi into the new town for dinner of shopping. If the reviews all look good then this could be a good choice.
FES ...
You might want to have the e Grand Alcazar's porter meet you at the Blue Gate to show you how it get to the Riad.
But the area is a good one. I would explore going always down hill and exit the medina at the bottom where I get a taxi to the blue gate (think 20 Dh or 2 Euro) to walk back to my accommodations.
"Day 9 Fes"
I would lose this day and add it to your to Merzuga to Marrakech leg. The drive from Fes to Merzuga is an all day affair and if you get there after dark you lose seeing the sunset over the dunes. this adds pressure and limits any stops on the way. And there are many very good stops along the way. So I suggest you stop overnight in either Azrou or in Midelt. then go to dunes the next day. stops I recommend for you bellow.
Volubilis.
Mouley Idress.
Ifraine.
Azrou.
The Ceder Forest with it's bands of wild Barbary apes and lovely nature.
Would be a shame to miss these. You can also add a short trip to Meknes by a fast train. Though many sites in Meknes are currently closed for repairs.
"Day 12 Todra Gorge, (overnight possibly at Auberge le Festival)"
Have other options as the Le Festival is currently very booked. There are other good choices there and even more great choices at the Dades gorge.
Are you planing to do any hiking? For me the Todhra gorge is a magical place. If you can see it as the sun rises, The light starts to slowly fill the pinch of the gorge like honey making the walls glow with a rainbow of colors.
For day 13 I would personally stay in Ouarzazate over Ait Ben (Auberge Ayouze) as there is a lot more to do at night and Auberge Ayouze is kind of isolated. But this is me.
"Day 14 Teleouet, return Marrakech for late evening flight"
Just get an early start here as there can be delays over the pass. watch the weather as well.
As you can see I only suggested minor tweaks as your plans look pretty solid.
Minor thoughts.
If you are taking a long flight to Marrakech you might be tired and a 3 hour drive might be hard for some. As there is little to see on the drive from Marrakech to Essaouira it OK to fall asleep :)
What time of year will you go? This can effect your trip and I might offer changes depending on the time of year.

Hope this is helpful to you.

I’m glad you have it all sorted and have found a place that works better for you. And Comicman has given you a lot of great information.

I realize I don’t know where you’re flying from, but the last thing I’d want to do after a long flight and arriving at night is to travel another 2 1/2 hours or more to get to my first destination. I’d probably stay in or near the airport and take more local transportation in the morning. I understand wanting to get there right away - and generally speaking, I think this would be a great idea, but a long drive at night after a flight would make me think twice.

"I’d probably stay in or near the airport and take more local transportation in the morning"
As the airport in Marrakech is close to the center you would not really want a hotel next to the airport (both less of quality and less things to do).
I would recommend going to Gueliz area, where you can find great hotel options from 30 Euro a night to 2000 Euro a night. It is a short 10 minute taxi ride and is a fixed 70 Dh set price (7 Euro) for up 2 three persons. So quite cheap.
So I think progol's question of where are you flying in from would change advice I would give.

"Marakech Airport Transfers for 60 euro"
That is a good price , well done.
"but what would we miss in Ouarzazate in the evening?"
For me restaurants, cafes, lovely walks. But if you want solitude your idea is fine. Just get your dinner (if your hotel does not already include it in your price, many do).
"Any specific hotel rec's for Dades Gorge"
Will look at what I would recommend tomorrow. Did you check if Le Festival was booked on your dates. I think you need to contact them directly.
Please come back with a nice report :)

Please come back with how your trip went :)