TC

(Just had to repost this. Couldn't stand the typo in previous post title. Ooops!) Our Dreams of Kilimanjaro Flying Safari was booked with Big Five, Inc. out of Stuart Florida and traveled in January of 1999. We chose this company after comparing their itinerary with those of other major upscale providers. Big Five used highly rated camps and lodges. They offered a flying rather than driving trip. We could see both Tanzania and Kenya. They offered a small tour group - no more than 12. (We had only 6.) They were reasonably priced - compared to Ker & Downy or A&K. A friend had taken the same trip a year before and spoke well of it. Web site: www.bigfive.com <BR> <BR>Our safari was considered a "luxury, permanent, tented" style with a few nights in lodges or hotels. The basic difference between a permanent camp and semi permanent camp is the bath facilities. In permanent camps you will usually find flush toilets, running hot and cold water and electricity. You will sleep on standard mattress and spring style beds. Meals are more elaborate; served with linen, silver, china, crystal, candles etc. There is more likely to be refrigeration facilities in the camp kitchens. In semi-permenant camps you will find more primitive facilities like outhouse style toilets, bucket showers, (where hot water is carried from a central fire to your tent and poured overhead by camp staff), wash stands rather than sinks and limited or no electricity in the tents. The tents will be on the ground rather than on a raised platform. Beds may be a wooden platform with foam mattress. The dining facilities will be good, but not elaborate. Its all just a little more rustic. <BR> <BR>The cost of an 18 day safari (of course, they always count your travel days from US to Africa, so we were really in the bush for about 14 days) was $7195 per person + $285 in trip insurance for a total of about $7480 U.S. dollars per person. This was without airfare (we flew KLM on frequent flier coupons). We took $1000 in cash and spent it all + charged camp and hotel extras on credit cards - about $425. <BR> <BR>The biggest difference in trips comes down to one thing (and this is really what you pay for): type of transportation. In our visits to Tanzania and Kenya we flew by small plane from camp to camp. I would never make a driving safari. The things that are called roads in both countries are like dry river beds (and these are the main roads). You will spend hours (6 to 8 at a time) driving from camp to camp or lodge to lodge over literally back breaking, bone jarring passages. (Think being inside a washing machine with no water to cushion you.) At times we thought the vehicle couldn't make it. This driving is time you are NOT game viewing, you are NOT relaxing, you are NOT enjoying the amenities of your camp. It took me at least a day to recover from the airstrip to camp driving upon arrival. Flying makes the most of your time and muscles - you'll do enough spine injury during game drives. <BR> <BR>The other transportation matter is the quality of vehicle for your game drives. The term "land rover/cruiser" can be very misleading. A true "Land Rover" with Mercedes engine can go anywhere with no problem. A Toyota "Land Cruiser" is a different matter. And other types of vans are also loosely referred to as "cruisers", "rovers", etc. We saw so many vans broken down in all the game reserves. We saw people sitting for hours in the sun waiting for a new fan belt to arrive. Some, but not all, vehicles have radios for assistance. Many lesser companies do not. Our driver had to radio for help many times to assist another company vehicle with no means of helping themselves. We saw six people from a broken down van piled into a van that already contained six people to continue their tour of Ngorongoro Crater - unbelievable. Even in some of the more "luxurious" camps the vehicles are barely adequate. Ask how many people will be in each vehicle, how many people does the van hold max, are you guaranteed a window seat at all times, what is the configuration of the roof hatches (this makes a big difference if you are a photographer). Ask for written confirmation - sometimes things get lost in the translation from USA to Africa. <BR> <BR>My advise for choosing a tour company is to ask a lot of detailed questions about the travel arrangements. The itineraries are ambiguous. When you fly to a camp ask how far the airstrip is from the actual camp (some are 3 hr. drive). If you are "transferring" from one camp to another, what does that mean exactly - drive? How far in hours? What kind of vehicles will you use? In Kenya we used the mini-vans. They are o.k., but very difficult if you are over 6 ft. tall - the pop tops don't go up high enough and the windows are so low that I had to slump to see out. At Little Governors Camp, we used camp owned vehicles, 4 wheel land cruisers - these were old and not at all adequate for more than 4 people to game view. Insist on enough vehicles, we did and it wasn't a problem. Ask detailed questions about your accommodations. Ask who will help you if a problem arises on site. Ask specific questions about what is and is not included. Ask what extra charges you may encounter. <BR> <BR>For the most part all the camps we used where very good (some more, some less) but I wouldn't have wanted to step down in quality. The trip is taxing. Up every day at 5:30 AM for coffee & biscuit - a 6:30 AM game drive - back for breakfast at about 9:30 AM -10:30 AM game drive - back for lunch at about noon - 3:30 PM game drive - back at about 6:30 - cocktails at 7:00 PM - dinner at 8:00 PM - bed at 10:00. You will soon feel a need for a hot shower, a soft bed and a little pampering. <BR> <BR> <BR>Our itinerary: <BR>We started in Nairobi at the Norfolk Hotel. While highly rated, this is pretty much a standard hotel. Twin bedded rooms with nice appointments. A huge deep bathtub, which we came to appreciate. Two good restaurants, a nice pool and helpful staff. Think a good tropical Holiday Inn quality with more style. This was the only place to catch CNN for news updates. The hotel seems to be in a safe area, although we were not allowed to walk outside the hotel grounds-even though the police station was in the same block. We spent two nights here before departing for the bush. Most International flight included trips give you only one night to recover before heading out. Our flight to Nairobi from the states took 24 hours plus and was a massive time zone change. We were happy to have arrived two days early to acclimate. <BR> <BR>We spent a week in Tanzania. After driving to Arusha as our jumping off point (now BF flies to Arusha) we spent two nights at each of three camps. First at Kirawira Camp in the Serengeti Park. It is heaven. See web site at www.slh.com/pages/a/arukirba.html This is luxury to the max. Tents have mahogany floors, canopied beds, marble baths, shower, flush toilets. Each tent verandah overlooks the park floor. We could see girafes each morning from our porch. All food, drink (including alcohol), and laundry is included in your stay. Dining is like the best gourmet restaurant in NY. You won't believe the place. The staff is warm and inviting; treating everyone like personal houseguests. The game viewing was spectacular. <BR> <BR>Two nights at Serena Ngorongoro Crater Lodge. The rooms are somewhat spartan but large. They have great views into the crater. We were cautioned that the lodge has a "reputation for theft" and that we should not leave anything of value in our room. The room doors do not lock with any real security. The food is mostly buffet style. Good but not great. The vegetarian dishes were excellent however. The crater is an interesting game viewing opportunity. There were lots of other vehicles - LOTS (during the "off" season). At one lion sighting there were at least 15 vans. I preferred the solitude of other parks. Masa warriors came to our balcony to offer themselves for photos - $20 U.S. requested after the photo was taken. Not so good at negotiating, but cute. This was the only place we saw black rhino. You won't get up close to animals here because there is no off-road driving allowed. However, the animals are very accustomed to the vans and will come very near. We had two female lions sleeping in the shade of our rover. <BR> <BR>Two nights at Oliver's Camp, Tarangire National Park. This was the roughest camp we visited because it is not a permanently sited camp. The tents were set on the far side of a ravine which had no bridge or walkway for crossing. The in suite facilities in each tent consisted of a hole-in-the-ground toilet with a wooden box over the top, a shower tent where hot water was poured from overhanging buckets, and a cold water wash basin on an outdoor stand. The cot style beds were quite uncomfortable. However, the camp spirit was wonderful. The food was great and was taken in a large enclosed tent where everyone sat at one big table. There was more sharing with other visitors here than anywhere else. After dinner each night there was a huge bonfire, after-dinner drinks and lots of storytelling. The animal viewing was great. This was excellent elephant viewing territory. We sat in the middle of large herds watching mothers and babies together. <BR> <BR>Back to The Norfolk by way of Arusha for one night's rest before we head for a week in Kenya. Dinner for the tourists at the Norfolk Ibis Grill is from a "selected" menu - it contains two choices. The same two choices were offered each time we passed through the Norfolk. The room service menu has great pasta. Ask for a credit on your dinner from the Ibis and eat in your room. The Ibis Grill breakfast buffet is not to be missed - delicious! <BR> <BR>We flew from Nairobi to spend two nights at Larsen's Camp in Samburu Park - a tented camp on the river. The tents are on raised platforms with verandahs, have two double beds, dressing table, storage trunks, rugs on the floor, full baths. Electricity only during certain hours each day - likewise hot water. The tents are a little worn around the edges. There is a resident family of overly friendly Vervet monkeys - they'll be in your tent in a flash. But it was fun watching the mothers with newborn babies. The dining tent had a lot of pesky birds and squirrels begging on the tables. I didn't like this. The food is good, but more basic than other camps. On game drives we saw Greve's zebra and reticulated giraffe and had elephants cross the river to dine on grass in front of our tent. Beautiful grounds here. Do not miss the bird walk with the camp naturalist. Very worthwhile. Sad - our only theft took place at this camp. <BR> <BR>One night at Mt. Kenya Safari Club. I would personally skip this stop knowing what I know now. Its an old 1950s men's hunting lodge - very clubby. The place was all but empty when we were there - maybe 25 people in all. We didn't see any animals except for the peacocks and the Mt. Kenya blue monkeys that pilfer in the trash bins. I would have much preferred to stay an extra day at any of the camps rather than (my opinion) waste a day here. The food is lavish looking, but not great tasting. The gift shop and art gallery are very expensive as are drinks. The heated swimming pool was frigid. The drive from the airstrip, over horrid roads, was long and hot. The bungalows we stayed in were pretty with large stone fireplaces, seating area, seating on porches, huge 2-3 person jacuzzi tubs and feather beds. However, they have no view even though described as being "down by the river". The 50's feather beds were saggy like a hammock. We called and ask the front desk for a bedboard and to have the mattress turned and fluffed. This helped a lot. It is very romantic to return to your cabin after dinner to find a roaring fire in your fireplace. The best part of this trip was visiting the spinners and weavers project in the nearby town and crossing the equator (you'll get a little water spin demo and then be offered a certificate to purchase to prove you crossed). Mt. Kenya Club is a beautiful country club - but that just wasn't what I came to Africa to see. <BR> <BR>Two nights at Govenor's Camp in the Masa Mara. Governor's was my very favorite camp. Actually we stayed at Little Governors and I recommend it over the main camp. The "little" camp is built around the edge of a grassy marsh. There are hippos in the marsh, and elephants graze there every day. We had warthogs in camp for breakfast and had to stop on the path to our tent one evening to allow a mother elephant and her two babies to come out of the marsh and cross the path in front of us. There were about 7-8 elephants in camp that night and we lay on our bed and watched them eat leaves from the tree behind our tent and scratch their ears on our tent pole. It was also here where I unzipped my tent door at 6am to find a hippo standing on the front verandah - arms length away. Amazing! The food is wonderful. Served at open air tables around the perimeter of the marsh. We had Masa dancers entertain us after dinner one night. Here you can hot air balloon over the plains ($380 per person - ouch!). The elephants, lions, and hippos were plentiful. The tents are the same canvas on a raised platform, two beds, dresser, chairs, and in suite bath. The bath was all tiled. It had a flush toilet, a big open shower with lots of hot water, vanity, and bidet. They are spotlessly maintained. Be aware that at Little Governor's you must descend a steep earthen stairway to the river, ferry across in a little boat, and then climb another steep earthen stairway up the opposite bank to reach the camp. Its strenuous. Skip the "safari walk", its hot and you don't see anything worthwhile. <BR> <BR>Back to The Norfolk in Nairobi for one night before departing for home. We arrived at about noon, took an afternoon city and museum tour, shopping, then dinner at Carnivore's restaurant at 8:00 PM. It was a full day. (Oh, and I forgot the riots - but that's another story.) <BR> <BR>We traveled in mid January and the weather was perfect every day - mid 80's and sunny. Tanzania had had some short rain so everything was green and beautiful. Kenya was a bit more brown. But we did not have the dust problems that other travelers describe. Loved Tanzania more than Kenya. There were no bugs, no rain (well, one or two nights but not in the daytime), no humidity, no sickness. Every animal seemed to have babies. We were told that since equatorial Africa has no seasons, mating and birthing go on all year round. <BR> <BR>What would I do differently now? I wouldn't travel as much, opting to stay a little more time in the camps I liked. I'd get in and out of Nairobi as fast as possible (no charm at all - and then there were the riots). I wouldn't drive any further than I ever had to. I'd skip eating at Carnivore's Restaurant in Nairobi. All the "wild animals" that you will eat taste exactly like chicken or beef, its not cooked very well, the place is tacky, loud, and filled with smoke from the grills. We delayed our departure by a whole day in order to have this final good-bye meal. Its not worth it. <BR> <BR>Take or Do: <BR>Be sure to take one of those inflatable neck pillows. They cost about $6 at US airport gift shops. This was the single most appreciated item on our trip. We used it for sleeping on the plane, for back cushioning on the game and overland drives, for a sleeping pillow in camps where the pillows were less than comfortable. It was the best $6 I ever invested. <BR> <BR>Don't go without a pair of 7x binoculars at the very least. Have a pair for each member of your party. You will really want them in order to watch animal behavior. Believe me, when you're watching a mother cheetah with her cubs no one wants to share - not even your spouse. Some tour companies will tell you that the drivers carry binoculars. They do - for their own personal use, not to share. <BR> <BR>Take a flashlight. We loved our mini Maglite. Small, easy to carry and puts out a bright beam. Many camp tents don't have electric lights all night. <BR> <BR>You'll want a small alarm clock or wrist watch with alarm feature. <BR> <BR>Take a good animal identification book - especially for the birds. The best we found was The National Audubon Society Field Guide to African Wildlife. The cost is about $18 US If you can't find it in a local book store, call Alfred Knopf publishers at 800-733-3000 NY. This book has actual pictures of birds and animals instead of drawings which makes identification much easier and more accurate. <BR> <BR>Keep a journal - if only to jot down what animals you spot each day. You won't believe how much of the first week you can forget by the second week. Memories around every corner become overwhelming. <BR> <BR>Don't over pack. You won't need nearly as much as you imagine. <BR> <BR>Bring extra collapsible duffle bags for taking home souvenirs or for leaving unnecessary items in storage in Nairobi while you are out on safari. Bring extra locks for these. <BR> <BR>US currency is good in both Kenya and Tanzania. In fact, it is preferred. Your US currency will have more bargaining power when shopping. If you bring only traveler's checks, you will not be able to exchange them for US currency. You might want to keep some US cash, but take good care of it. <BR> <BR>No one ever asked to see those International Health Certificates issued by our doctor. <BR> <BR>Photography: <BR>*We took a Pentax ZX5n 35mm fully automatic camera body (This is a great camera!) <BR> <BR>*An older model camera body for backup <BR> <BR>*Sigma 24mm to 70mm, f3.5-5.6 auto focus zoom lens (the Pentax takes panoramic pics thus the wide angle) <BR> <BR>*Tamron 70mm to 300mm , f4.0-5.6 auto focus zoom lens (I used this lens the most - in the 300mm setting. If I only had one lens, this would be it.) <BR> <BR>*2x teleconverter (This is great if you want bird pictures. We saw no visible diminished quality in pictures taken with the teleconverter IF you purchase a high quality one.) <BR> <BR>*Sigma auto flash (Didn't use this even once. Just used the built-in camera flash for fill.) <BR> <BR>*UV filters for all lenses. <BR> <BR>*High resolution circular polarizing filters. <BR> <BR>*Lens hoods (you really need these to cut out flare) <BR> <BR>*One set of extra lithium batteries. <BR> <BR>*We shot 50 rolls of 24 exposure, Fuji film, half 200, half 400 speed <BR> <BR>24 exposure rolls cost half the price of 36 exposure rolls for the same number of total exposures because places like Target or K-mart use them as "loss leaders". No one ever discounts 36 exposures film. <BR> <BR>*A small bean bag. I made one a little larger than a one pound bag of beans. These are necessary to steady your camera on the vehicle roof. We found that a mini tripod was useless as was a monopod. Many tour operators will tell you that the drivers carry bean bags - maybe yes, mostly no. Knowing what I know now, I would have made a bag a bit bigger - about the size of a hardback novel. You need something large enough to prop your camera up above the vehicle roof racks. However, those blow-up neck pillows came in handy again for this. <BR> <BR>*Lens covers. Make or purchase some cloth lens covers - a circular piece of cloth with an elastic edge (like a jar lid cover). You'll want to be able to uncover your lens in a flash and the hard plastic covers are cumbersome -yet you will want protection from the dust. We ended up using an old sock for this, it looked a little tacky but worked. <BR> <BR>*Lots of zip lock plastic bags for all your film. <BR> <BR>*A method of labeling your used film. When you get home one lion looks like another and its hard to remember where pictures were taken. <BR> <BR>*If your camera has a date function - turn it off. I ruined the most beautiful sunset picture I ever took by having the date stamp in the front corner. <BR> <BR>*Ask to have your film hand checked at the airports. We had no problem departing the US or in Nairobi (where we had been told it would be difficult), but Amsterdam is a real pain. I have been told that it is the accumulated effect of xray on film that does the harm. <BR> <BR>*The best solution - take your film out of the plastic canisters and put it into clear zip lock bags so that the agents can easily see that it is truly film. If you leave it in the canisters -even clear ones, they'll insist on opening each one. <BR> <BR>*A small day pack. There is limited space in the game viewing vans, so take your camera equipment in the smallest usable pack you can manage. <BR> <BR>With this equipment, we got beautiful, professional quality pictures in almost every instance. Our pictures are close-up, full frames of animals and birds as well as some outstanding panoramic pictures of zebra against a stormy sky, elephants with mountains in the background, sunset vistas, tall, tall, tall giraffes (if you turn the panoramic lens vertically). <BR> <BR>Picture development: I negotiated with a local photo lab for development before we left home. Most pro labs will bid on a large order. Even if you send your film in to Kodak or other lab, stagger the orders. Don't drop all your film in one trip. If you do drop it all at once, the film will all be processed in one batch at the lab. If something goes wrong with the machinery or chemicals (accidents happen) ALL your pictures will be lost. Don't take the chance - drop it off on different days. <BR> <BR>Health: <BR>Bring Carmex or other lip balm to use during game drives and on the airplane. I acquired some nasty lip blisters because the Vaseline lip protection I took just wasn't enough. <BR> <BR>Tylenol P.M. came in very handy for sleep assistance. It took away the aches and pains of the day's travel while helping us drift off to sleep in noisy surroundings. It was also great for making the time zone sleep adjustment. (Our doctor recommended this and it didn't leave us at all drowsy or groggy feeling the next morning. Consult with your doctor before using this or any of the following medications.) <BR> <BR>Triple Antibiotic creme for minor scratches <BR> <BR>Xylacane or After Bite for post bug bites <BR> <BR>Aspirin <BR> <BR>Antacids <BR> <BR>Band-Aids <BR> <BR>Personal medications + malaria pills <BR> <BR>A small bottle of peroxide. <BR> <BR>Decongestant pills were very useful. The African bush can really mess up your sinuses. <BR> <BR>Throat lozenges or hard candy helps keep the mouth and throat moist during dusty drives. <BR> <BR>We were told that all medications must be kept in their original containers, even aspirin, to avoid problems at border crossings. No one ever looked or asked. Now, I'd put as much as possible in small zip lock bags to save space. <BR> <BR>Never set out for anywhere without a bottle of water - no matter how quick the trip. It is extremely easy to become dehydrated without even recognizing the symptoms. There is always something that will happen to make your trip just a little longer than you expected - and sometimes you'll have to pay for bottled water (at the Norfolk Hotel its $7 a bottle), so take water anytime its offered. <BR> <BR>Take a sun screen of at least SPF 30 or more even if you tan well. On the equator the sun is extreme. You may or may not have a canopy cover on game drives. Use the sun screen on your lips too. <BR> <BR>When you leave your hotel in Nairobi, grab the roll of toilet paper and put it in your carry-on or daypack. You'll need it sooner or later for "bush breaks". Toilets are not always available when you need them, so squat breaks become standard procedure on game drives. Even in places where there are toilets, they will often be just a hole in the ground that is surrounded by a small circular wall. You will need your own paper. <BR> <BR>I also strongly advise that you take a bag full of individually wrapped moist towlettes. You will need and want them everywhere. I used them and passed them out to other travelers during the entire trip. Everything is dusty and dirty. Keep a few in your pack each day. <BR> <BR>Take a small bottle of the Purell-style hand sanitizer. You'll want that, too, after a few bush breaks. Its also good to use after being in an airplane toilet. The doorknobs are covered in bacteria. <BR> <BR>We avoided eating local greens or fruit that we could not peel ourselves. We did not drink local water, use ice cubes or brush our teeth in tap water. We ate and drank everything else with no problems at all. <BR> <BR>We took 30% deet, mosquito spray - hardly ever used it. But do take a small bottle. Spray is best - its nasty stuff on your hands or if you get it in your eyes. <BR> <BR>Food & drinks: <BR>Soft drinks are easy to come by and are actually cheaper than the local Tuskar beer. Very few places have diet drinks. Try the Bitter Lemon drink - its good. <BR> <BR>They make the best coffee I ever tasted. But not many camps could offer decaffeinated coffee. Tea is always available. <BR> <BR>The breakfasts are wonderful - eggs, meats (I loved their sausage), potatoes, pancakes, french toast, breads (wonderful everywhere), fruits, cereals (mostly granola), yogurt. (the "fruit" yogurt has no fruit in it - we used a spoonful of strawberry jam as flavor), juice, coffee, tea, milk. <BR> <BR>Lunch always starts with soup (usually hot), salads, warm bread, then hot meat (pork chop, lamb, veal, chicken or steak), potatoes, and vegetable. Lunch is a full, heavy meal - no sandwiches and potato chips. There are always wonderful looking deserts - which usually didn't taste as good as they looked. <BR> <BR>Dinner was a multi course meal. Again, the soup starter & bread, an appetizer (terrine, pate, spring rolls, shrimp, etc.), a fish course, the entree (meat, potato or rice dish, vegetables), sorbet, and deserts. The tables were set elaborately. Our joke became who had silverware left over at the dinner's end that they hadn't figured out how to use. <BR> <BR>The meals were all included in the tour price. Drinks were not. You will almost always settle a bar bill at the end of each camp stay. This will include liquor, beer, wine, soft drinks, or bottled water. The bar bills ran anywhere from $30 to $60 US - sometimes you can use a credit card, many times this is required in cash. We are not big drinkers. Our typical two night stay would include (for two people) 12 soft drinks or beers, bottled water, 4 cocktails, one bottle of South African wine. <BR> <BR>Clothes: <BR>For the most part we wore, 2 pair of shorts, 2 pair of long pants, 3 tee shirts, 2 sleeveless/short sleeve shirts, 2 long sleeve shirts, a sweater, safari vest, windbreaker, hat, 3 pair shoes and underwear for about 3 days. You can wash out almost anything by hand and it will dry in an hour. <BR> <BR>Take a very light weight, light colored, long sleeve shirt for sun protection while on game drives. Many times it was very hot, but I needed to have arms and neck covered for sun protection. <BR> <BR>Take a large brim hat. I took a hiking style hat with about a 3 inch brim and wished I'd had a little larger brimmed one. (Most of the tour companies give everyone a "safari" hat upon arrival, but there's a good chance it won't fit.) A hat made of cloth is best so that you can easily flip up the brim for game viewing through binoculars or camera. Also make sure the hat is secure so that it won't blow off your head while standing up in the game vehicles trying to spot animals. <BR> <BR>Take bandanas for keeping your neck warm on frigid morning drives, protection from the sun and dust, and to use as emergency bad hair day accessories. <BR> <BR>Take two or three pair of shoes. One pair of good walking shoes (cross trainers or the like) these should be shoes that you don't mind getting muddy or dirty. Hiking boots are much too warm for this climate and you really won't hike anywhere. One pair of substantial sandals - something cool, but something that you won't stub your toe in or mind walking on dusty paths in. One pair of comfortable flats for dressing up a bit (could be same sandals). Ladies, you will never need heels. In many camps you will however be walking under thorn trees - on many occasions we pulled 2-3 inch thorns out of the bottom of our shoes. You don't want these in your foot. <BR> <BR>Take a warm, light-weight, wool sweater. I used this one item almost every morning and evening. Black is a good color. <BR> <BR>Take a light-weight, water-proof wind breaker style jacket. Layered over your sweater this is sufficient warmth for the entire trip. <BR> <BR>Some camps will do laundry for free, others charge. But you can get it done everywhere - so pack accordingly. The service is good and inexpensive. This is much easier than lugging around a full suitcase. You'll be surprised how wardrobe standards diminish during the trip. No one cares that they've seen you in the same clothes everyday or that nothing is ever pressed or that you'll wear things with a little dirt on it. They'll all be doing the same thing. <BR> <BR>The dressiest we ever got was slacks and a nice sweater. Ladies, can dress up standard attire with a pretty scarf or some fancy costume jewelry - they take up no room in your luggage. Black cotton knit slacks and that black lightweight wool sweater and black flats can look pretty fancy when accessorized. This holds true even at the Mt. Kenya Safari Club - and we ate in the Members' Only dining room. Men never needed a jacket or tie. <BR> <BR>We used our multi-pocket safari style vest everyday. So did everyone else we encountered. They are wonderful for photo equipment and valuables. <BR> <BR>We wore either the vest or a fanny pack with our passports, airline tickets and money inside at all times - even to meals. Do this. One of our traveling companions had $300 stolen from his pack at Larsen's Camp. It was done during a meal and in a very professional way. Don't take chances. <BR> <BR>Camera equipment doesn't seem to be as vulnerable as cash, but we always locked ours inside our suitcase when we weren't using it - just in case. <BR> <BR>Don't bother taking a hair dryer. You won't be able to use it in camp. The hotels will provide them, but they won't plug in anywhere near a mirror, so get a hair style that doesn't require this kind of upkeep. <BR> <BR>You won't use much make-up. But you will use a lot of moisturizer and hand creme. <BR> <BR>Put on your evening dinner make-up before it gets dark. Most tents don't have good electric lights. Its very difficult to do hair and make-up by gas lanterns, candles or a lamp that is across the room from the mirror. <BR> <BR>Take a very good pair of polarizing sun glasses - maybe two. <BR> <BR>Contacts lenses are difficult to wear because of the dust - take your glasses. <BR> <BR>Would I do it all again. YES - YES - YES! <BR> <BR>We were so close to animals. Monkeys in our tent, elephants surrounding our tent, hippo on the front porch, warthogs at lunch, lions sleeping in the shade of our car. We watched two male lions fight for territorial position, cape buffalo clash horn to horn for possession of the herd, gazelle jump in mid-air and clash horns like some ariel ballet. We achieved sightings of the entire Big Five: elephant, cape buffalo, rhino, leopard, and lion. We saw babies everywhere: elephants, zebra, giraffe, lion cubs, cheetahs, black rhino, gazelles, baboons, monkeys, warthog, hippo - it was the birthing season. We identified over 160 species of birds. We hand fed giraffe, watched a pride of lions (one male, five female, and ten babies) play with a giant monitor lizard on day. The excitement went on and on and on. It was all amazing. <BR> <BR>If you have more specific questions or comments,drop me an email. <BR>Akuna matata! <BR>[email protected] <BR>

Bly

TC: Great trip report! Brought back a lot of great memories. Although our most important item packed was PEPTO BISMOL! Also, regarding hand checking film...I think it depends on who is working, what their mood is, etc. At the beginning of our trip, Amsterdam and Nairobi hand checked film, Mombasa would not. On the return, Nairobi wouldn't and we gave up in Amsterdam! Gotta try though. Completely agree on taking a flying safari over driving. Sounds like you had a great trip. b

pat

TC, great trip report. Should be required reading for anyone going on safari. <BR> <BR>If you truly are thinking of going again, try Botswana. It is the ultimate game-viewing -- private consessions, no crowds, many, many animals at close quarters. Camps wonderful, air transfers. I am making my third trip this August, after my first to Kenya. You won't believe the difference. <BR> <BR>Loved Larson's camp and Governor's tho!, and agree with you about Mt. Kenya Safari Club. When we were there there was a tour group of over 100. Not very private clubby feeling. <BR> <BR>For Botswana, try Wilderness Safaris, contact [email protected] (best travel agent around!) <BR> <BR>Pat (animal nut!)

lisa

Wow, what a fantastic trip report! All the detail was much appreciated, particularly regarding photo gear. I'm saving this for a future trip (not this year, but someday...).

topper

To the top.

Louise

Wonderful report! I do agree with Pat about going to Botswana after being previously in Kenya and Tanzania. Also, thoroughly agree on his choice of a travel agent.

April

Interesting report but I don't understand your comment: "This driving is time you are NOT game viewing." That's precisely when we did see many animals and with no other vehicles in sight. Personally I loved the driving. Bumping down that horrendous "road" into the Rift Valley, for instance, was a moment to remember.

Jennie

I agree with April 100%. We did too drive in Tanzania and Kenya and it was the best time for animal viewing, visiting local villages, taking pictures of children, etc. We even took long walks and sometimes a distance between camps wasn't as long as some agents told us. It was a wonderful experience and we would do it again. We piad for two of us $6449.00 (TC you spent over $7,000 per person!). We were two weeks on safari excluding traveling from Houston - London - Nairobi - London - Houston and overnight in Nairobi. We stayed at most of the same camps but Mount Kenya Safari Club. TC I trully enjoy your report though

mm

This as a great report. We only went to Tanzania and driving was a real experience, something we decided was part of the entire adventure. I have to agree with TC about the Serena lodges and theft. We spent a night each at the Serena lodges at Lake Manyara, Serengeti and Ngorongoro. The only time our money was not in our sights was when we went to dinner. (Trust me when I say the money was well concealed.) We did not notice the missing money until we went back to Arusha. Not all the money was taken but we lost about $600. We don't know where it was taken or if all three lodges were part of an "network". I know that life is hard in Tanzania and they probably thought that they were only taking a little. I guess I should be glad that they had a conscience since they only took some of the cash and did not leave us stranded. But apart from this experience, we enjoyed the whole trip and liked all the people we met and dealt with. We particularly liked dealing with the tour operators (all local Tanzanians) who made all arrangements. Since all of it was done via e-mail, everything came out as promised.

tc

To April & Jennie; Your comments regarding driving vs. mine are the exact purpose of my report. Every experience will be different and sometimes people have particular reasons for needing one over the other. In our experience the drives between airstrips and camps were just that - drives. There was never any time for game viewing - yes, you do see a few animals as you drive by. But for the most part they were just transports to be endured. Very hard on a bad back. Maybe we just covered more territory than your tour or maybe we just had a bad tour operator, but the point is you need to ask a lot of detailed question and take nothing for granted in order to serve your own needs. Thanks for your input. Glad you had a great adventure. We sure did. I can't wait to return.

ttt

TTT.

buck

I just returned from an 12 day Safari in Kenya with Go Ahead Vacations. It was a driving safari and was delightful as we stopped along the way and got to meet alot of the Kenyan people who are warm and friendly. We left our lodge around 8 in the morning for the next place and were always there by lunch time. The roads were bad but just what do you expect in a developing nation?<BR>We got to see alot of the country side which you wouldn't see flying and who wants to mess with airports and catching flights more than you have to?<BR>We stayed 2 nights at some an 1 night at others such as the Mt. Kenya Safari Club, where I had a steak that was so tough I couldn't cut a piece of it off to eat. Sent it back and headed for the fresh made pasta station and was excellent. <BR>All drinks are double priced there and it was the only place on the whole trip we had a rude waiter at dinner. <BR><BR>Total cost for the whole trip from San Franciso was about 3200 for 12 days. <BR><BR>We also had lunch at Carnivorni's which I thought was something everyone should do once. I thought it was great. The meal was served at the table with all these legs of wild game along with beef, pork and chicken which they sliced off right into hot iron plates that sizzled. What a treat for all of us. If you go to Nairobi don't miss out on this special treat. <BR>Everyone has different tastes but what a great trip we all had. Buck

rachel sumaria

For luxury journeys to Africa, try Vintage Africa (vintageafrica.com. We did a luxury trip with them, all customised, and it was just wonderful.

rachel sumaria

Oh I forgot to mention about the accommodation. In my opinion Serena lodges are OK and cannot be considered luxurious as portrayed by many brochures. We did a pretty upscale tour and used the following accommodation with flying/driving (4+4 plus minibus) option: <BR> <BR>Nairobi: Ngong House (nothing beats it in Nairobi) <BR>Masai Mara – Enkang Oloirien tented camp – easy to get to and delightful by the ton. I have stayed at Little Governor’s too and it is as good as Enkang but more expensive. I hear Kichwa Tembo and Bateleur Camps are good too. <BR>Chyulu Hills - Campi ya Kanzi: So intimate that we regretted taking the children there. Incredible views, hosts and food but little game. <BR>Tarangire: Kikoti tented camp (secluded and pretty - just outside the park so suitable for game walks. Tarangire is a lovely park with lots of elephant, buffalo and lions too! ) <BR>Manyara: Maji Moto Tented Camp (an amazing drive through the Park to get to it. We got stuck in a river bed and were rescued by the rangers after they heard the hooting – what fun!) <BR>Ngorongoro – Crater Lodge (Serena looks like a hut next to this one. Boy is it gorgeous and outlandish. A fun place to be!) <BR>Serengeti – Grumeti Camp (For pure drama in the wild nothing beats it). Kleins Camp (gorgeous views of the serengeti plains and what luxury!) <BR> <BR>Our favourite was Grumeti <BR>Children’s favourite was Enkang and they adored the driver in Kenya. <BR> <BR>What else to take with you – Aspivenin (sp?) – a poison suction device for insect and scorpion stings <BR> <BR>Below is a suggestion of items to take on a safari with children: <BR> <BR> Pillow or cushion for resting head when dozing <BR> Sting relief spray (just in case) <BR> No-water hand wash and wet-wipes <BR> Tissues/loo roll (safari drivers are quite used to locating suitable bushes while on game drives) <BR> Bag for rubbish <BR> Plenty of drinks (Vintage Africa provide drinks and snacks in their cars unlike other operators I know so you won’t be spending $7 at Norfolk) <BR> Biscuits, sweets or other snacks <BR> Suntan lotion (easy to burn through vehicle window) <BR> Sun glasses for children <BR> Hat ( some vehicles are open top) <BR> A pair of binoculars and flashlight per child saves a great deal of moaning <BR> Puzzle books/pen <BR> Tapes/CDs and personal stereo <BR> Electronic games on which the sound can be turned off <BR> Hand-held battery fan (vital for claustrophobic as well) <BR> Rucksack for each child to keep their own games etc. in whilst on game drives <BR> Calpol or equivalent <BR> Aspivenin suction device for insect, scorpion and snake bites <BR> <BR>Wilderness in Botswana are excellent but they have child restrictions, hence our trip to E.Africa.

John Boag

Thanks for a great report on your trip. I am off to Tanzania at the beginning of June for my first Safari, I am travelling with Vintage Africa. As this is my first experience, all your comments and advice are gratefully received. I will let you know how it all went on my return. Thanks again.

buck

To John B, <BR>I forget to tell you in email, travel light as all the lodges have laundry service very cheap, just put your dirty clothes in the bag before you leave in the morning and they will be back in the evening all cleaned and ironed real nice. Don't bog yourself down with all those things which you will never use but have to carry them around all the time. Basics is all you need, not battery powered fans and such.

top

Good advice.

Rose

For Rosy

maggie

Zambia is also a fabulous Safari destination. Returned from there recently and could not fault Robin Pope Safaris. Your every need is met and there is an abundance of wildlife.<BR>Check it out at www.robinpopesafaris.net

Di

Karen I understand as a travel agent you feel obligated to advertise this company. Unfortunately we had a bad experience with them. Our guides were not knowledgable, vehicles stocked at least six times during our one week long safari and food was nothing to talk about. Also I never before or after slept on such uncomfortable beds. Usually paying more means these things wouldn't happened