Hotel report: Rome and Venice
#1
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Hotel report: Rome and Venice
Recently back from an excellent trip to Rome and Venice (London, too, but una cosa alla volta), and I can wholeheartedly recommend two terrific places to stay.
In Rome, I stayed at the Hotel Indigo St George. Indigo is a brand of the IMG chain (InterContinental, Crowne Plaza, Holiday Inn, etc), but this is not at all a big hotel -- it's got only 64 rooms. It's also got a spa, but best of all is the terrific rooftop terrace where you can relax with a drink after a day of cruising Rome. The staff are fantastic -- every staff member that I encountered was helpful, which isn't always the case in Rome -- and even the hotel restaurant, tucked away in a courtyard, was surprisingly good and reasonably priced. Maybe best of all is the location on the Via Giulia: it's in a real neighborhood filled with interesting shops and places for either a serious meal or a quick bite, an easy walk to Campo di Fiori, Piazza Navonna, Castel St Angelo, and St Peter's Square. I much prefer this location to the area filled with hotels near the Spanish Steps. (Comparing to Paris, this location would be similar to staying in the rue du Cherche-Midi as opposed to the Champs-Elysées.)
In Venice, where I was paying real money instead of credit-card accumulated points, my B&B was both a serious bargain and an excellent place to stay: the Corte 1321 in San Polo(www.corte1321.com/). The Corte 1321 has only 4 rooms; mine was the "Studio," which was very much like staying in an apartment. It's extremely large (especially for Venice), with a kitchenette and sitting area in addition to the bed area. Plus, the Studio is on the ground floor (in a very secure building) with access to a cheerful courtyard where breakfast is served. Not only is the price extremely reasonable (even less if you pay in cash, and even less still if you sign up on a site called nozio.com ), but everything is pulled together by the excellent manager, Vanessa. This place is really a jewel. But with only 4 rooms (I don't know if others have a kitchenette, and none of the other rooms are on the ground floor), you would usually have to book well in advance.
In Rome, I stayed at the Hotel Indigo St George. Indigo is a brand of the IMG chain (InterContinental, Crowne Plaza, Holiday Inn, etc), but this is not at all a big hotel -- it's got only 64 rooms. It's also got a spa, but best of all is the terrific rooftop terrace where you can relax with a drink after a day of cruising Rome. The staff are fantastic -- every staff member that I encountered was helpful, which isn't always the case in Rome -- and even the hotel restaurant, tucked away in a courtyard, was surprisingly good and reasonably priced. Maybe best of all is the location on the Via Giulia: it's in a real neighborhood filled with interesting shops and places for either a serious meal or a quick bite, an easy walk to Campo di Fiori, Piazza Navonna, Castel St Angelo, and St Peter's Square. I much prefer this location to the area filled with hotels near the Spanish Steps. (Comparing to Paris, this location would be similar to staying in the rue du Cherche-Midi as opposed to the Champs-Elysées.)
In Venice, where I was paying real money instead of credit-card accumulated points, my B&B was both a serious bargain and an excellent place to stay: the Corte 1321 in San Polo(www.corte1321.com/). The Corte 1321 has only 4 rooms; mine was the "Studio," which was very much like staying in an apartment. It's extremely large (especially for Venice), with a kitchenette and sitting area in addition to the bed area. Plus, the Studio is on the ground floor (in a very secure building) with access to a cheerful courtyard where breakfast is served. Not only is the price extremely reasonable (even less if you pay in cash, and even less still if you sign up on a site called nozio.com ), but everything is pulled together by the excellent manager, Vanessa. This place is really a jewel. But with only 4 rooms (I don't know if others have a kitchenette, and none of the other rooms are on the ground floor), you would usually have to book well in advance.
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Thank you for your reviews Don.
Years ago I stayed at Corte 1321 in one of the rooms upstairs and really enjoyed my stay. Breakfast in the courtyard was a lovely way to begin each day and my room was large with a huge bathroom and bed. I also liked the location, host, and the price.
Years ago I stayed at Corte 1321 in one of the rooms upstairs and really enjoyed my stay. Breakfast in the courtyard was a lovely way to begin each day and my room was large with a huge bathroom and bed. I also liked the location, host, and the price.
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Glad to hear you enjoyed Corte 1321, as I am thinking of probably staying there this fall for 4 nights. I've been told that the nearest vaporetto stop (San Silvestro) is closed, and the next nearest one is Rialto. Did you find that inconvenient at all (particularly in terms of arriving from the train station with luggage), or was the Rialto stop very close by, too?
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lily3, there are two Rialto stops, one is Rialto and the other, Rialto Mercato. Definitely go to Rialto Mercato so you do not have to shlep all your stuff over the Rialto Bridge. There are no bridges between Rialto Mercato stop and Corte 1321. But hopefully the repairs to the San Silvestro stop will be complete by the fall.
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The San Silvestro stop was closed in November supposedly for 5 months, but things obviously are not on schedule. When I was there late-May, no work was being done at San Silvestro.
The alternate vaporetto stop is Rialto Mercato. It's about a 6- or 8-minute walk from there to Corte 1321, but, crucially if walking with a suitcase, there are no bridges and stairs. It's also a straight shot from Rialto Mercato to the piazetta at Sant'Aponal, where you pick up the small street (Calle Perdon) that leads to the B&B.
The vaporetto stop closure shouldn't affect your stay at all.
The alternate vaporetto stop is Rialto Mercato. It's about a 6- or 8-minute walk from there to Corte 1321, but, crucially if walking with a suitcase, there are no bridges and stairs. It's also a straight shot from Rialto Mercato to the piazetta at Sant'Aponal, where you pick up the small street (Calle Perdon) that leads to the B&B.
The vaporetto stop closure shouldn't affect your stay at all.
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Thanks so much! Sounds like even if the San Silvestro stop is not open by our stay it won't be an issue. I think I am decided on Corte 1321 - I'm also considering Locanda San Barnaba in Dorsoduro (same price), and like that location also, but Corte 1321 seems more central, and closer to many of the restaurants we want to try. So hard to decide!
#8
I'm sure that I remember San Silvestro being open in February but it's possible I wasn't really paying attention!
Thanks Don for two excellent recommendations - like you I much prefer that area of Rome to the spanish steps and having never stayed in Santa Croce, would be keen to try it sometime.
Grazie mille!
Thanks Don for two excellent recommendations - like you I much prefer that area of Rome to the spanish steps and having never stayed in Santa Croce, would be keen to try it sometime.
Grazie mille!
#10
The Corte 1321 is a good bit above my price range. However, I see that they are offering a 7% discount for a Facebook "like". Given how I feel about FB, and given that they are asking for a "like" before you've even stayed there, I would take them off the list even if I could afford them.