Fodor's Expert Review La Florida

The black-and-white photos, lace tablecloths, and quaint knickknacks that clutter this long, low house belie the fact that it was once a brothel. It still has private rooms, but the politicians and occasional celebs rent them for dining these days. You, too, can ask to be seated in one, but consider the airy back dining room, which has views over the river. It's hard to say if it's the flamboyant French-Argentine owner's tall tales that keep regulars returning or his excellent cooking. Specialties include kingfish, sole, and salmon cooked to order.