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Colonia del Sacramento

It's hard not to fall in love with Colonia del Sacramento, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of South America's most beautiful cities. Founded in 1680, the city was subject to a long series of wars and pacts between Spain and Portugal, which eventually gave up its claim. Its many small museums are dedicated to the story of its tumultuous history. Like Cartagena, Quito, and Cusco, Colonia offers the best of an old colonial city, with wonderfully preserved architecture, rough cobblestone streets, and an easy grace and tranquillity evident in its people and pace. There are more bicycles than cars here, which adds to the serenity of this roughly six-by-six-block Old City that juts out on a small peninsula into the Río de la Plata. Colonia is often the first (and sometimes only) destination in Uruguay most visitors see; it's easily done as a day trip from Buenos Aires, or makes a convenient gateway to the country if arriving from Argentina.

The best sightseeing activity in Colonia, however, is simply walking through its Barrio Histórico (Old Town). Porteños (as citizens of Buenos Aires are known) come to Colonia for romantic getaways or a break from the city. It makes sense to follow their example: you don't get enough time here on a day trip to really relax or see the city at its own pace. A night in one of its many colonial-style B&Bs offsets travel costs and time and makes a visit here far more rewarding.

Getting Here & Around

There's frequent daily bus service from the Tres Cruces terminal in Montevideo to Colonia del Sacramento. Two companies that serve the entire region are Copsa and Cot. It's a beautiful drive from Montevideo to Colonia del Sacramento, and it will take you about three hours on Ruta 1 west. Renting a car is the simplest way to explore the coast.

Hydrofoils and ferries cross the Río de la Plata between Buenos Aires and Uruguay several times a day. Boats often sell out, particularly on summer weekends, so book tickets at least a few days in advance. Buquebus provides two kinds of service for passengers and cars: Colonia Express operates the cheapest and fastest services to Colonia, via a 50-minute catamaran trip; the slower ferry takes around three hours. In Buenos Aires the Buquebus terminal is at the northern end of Puerto Madero, accessible by taxi or by walking seven blocks from Leandro N. Alem subte station along Trinidad Guevara and Avenida Alicia M. de Justo to the intersection with Cecilia Grierson. Colonia's ferry port is undergoing renovation work and is rather chaotic. The shortest way to the Barrio Histórico is to turn left out of the port car park into Florida—it's a six-block walk. Walking is the perfect way to get around this part of town; equally practical—and lots of fun—are golf carts and sand buggies, which you can rent from Thrifty.

Signs and transportation schedules frequently shorthand the name of the city to simply colonia.

Essentials

Bank

Banco República (Av. Gral. Flores 151).

Bus Contacts

Cot (052/23-121). TURIL (052/24-5318).

Ferry Contacts

Buquebus (11/4316-6500 in Buenos Aires. www.buquebus.com). Colonia Express (11/4313-5100 in Buenos Aires; 52/29676 in Colonia. www.coloniaexpress.com).