Cotahuasi Canyon

Colca Canyon may be the region's most famous natural attraction, but at 3,354 meters (11,001 feet), Cotahuasi is the world's deepest gorge, beating Colca Canyon by 163 meters (534 feet). It's nearly twice as deep as the Grand Canyon. The canyon has been carved by the Río Cotahuasi, which changes into Río Ocuña before connecting to the Pacific. Its deepest point is at Ninochaco, below the quaint administrative capital of Quechualla, and accessible only by kayak; kayak explorations first documented the area in the mid-1990s and measured its depth. Since then, paddling Cotahuasi river's Class V rapids is to kayakers what scaling Mount Everest is to mountaineers.

The ride from Arequipa to the Cotahuasi Canyon ranks with the great scenic roads of the world. As you pass Corire and Toro Muerto, the road rides the western side of snow-capped Nevado Coropuno (21,079 feet), Peru's third-highest volcano, for spectacular views as you descend into the valley of Cotahuasi. Logistically speaking, it's a bumpy 11- to 13-hour bus ride or 10 hours by four-wheel drive from Arequipa. The pavement ends in Chuquibamba. Some of the road from Chuquibamba to Cotahuasi, the longest stretch of the ride, is in the process of being graded. There's no fee to enter the canyon.

Advance Prep

Cotahuasi is not traveler-savvy yet so it's not possible to show up in a town, buy a map, hire a guide, and get on your way. You'll want to buy a map of the canyon at the Instituto Geográfico Militar in Lima or at the South American Explorers in Lima or Cusco.

Getting There

Cotahuasi Canyon is a travel destination in the making, but outside of expert extreme sports enthusiasts, few people venture here. Unless you're taking a bus, driving anything but a 4x4 is asking for trouble. The jagged, rocky dirt roads are full of cliffs and narrow corners. Dry for most of the year, the roads get muddy from December to April (rainy season), a time when you're also likely to encounter random streams flowing across the road.

Hire a guide, regardless of season and not just for safety. Since this region is so remote, you're likely to see a lot more with a guide. All buses travel through the night; three bus companies go from Arequipa to Cotahuasi daily, each leaves around 5 PM, arriving in Cotahuasi village in time for sunrise: Transportes Cromotex (054/421-555), Transportes Reyna (054/430-612), and Alex Bus (054/424-605).

If you're driving, know that gas stations are few between the long stretch from Corire (near Toro Muerto) to the village of Cotahuasi.