Flying overhead, you can't miss the green, fertile trough as it cuts through the barren terrain, but it's all an illusion; only scrub brush and cactus cling to the canyon's sheer basalt sides and miles of ancient terraces. The canyon is named for the stone warehouses (colcas) used to store grain by an ancient society living along the walls of the gorge.
Carved into the foothills of the snow-covered Andes and sliced by the silvery Río Colca, Colca Canyon drops 3,182 meters (10,607 feet) down. The more adventurous can embark on a multiday hike into the canyon—typically a two-, three-, or five-day excursion. Bird lovers (and anyone with an eye for amazement) can visit the Cruz del Condor. Culture seekers can spend a night with a native family. Light hikers and archaeology aficionados can observe points along the rim, or those seeking pure relaxation can hit one of the all-inclusive lodges with horseback riding and thermal baths.
Cruz del Condor is a haunt for the giant birds, particularly at dawn, when they soar on the winds rising from the deep valley. At 1,200 meters (4,000 feet), the "condor cross" precipice between the villages Pinchollo and Cabanaconder is the best place to spot them. From June to August, you're likely to spot close to 20 or more condors during a morning visit. By October and November many of the female birds are nesting, so your chances of eyeing flocks are slim, but you'll likely spot a few birds.
A hallmark of Cotahausi Canyon is its bridges, which are all hanging (and swinging) across the Río Cotahuasi. They're cool to look at, nerve-racking to consider, but there's only one way over.
By hiring a private guide, renting a four-wheel-drive vehicle, joining a tour from Arequipa, or going by bus you can explore the area. Arequipa is the jumping-off point for nearly everyone headed to Colca Canyon. Chivay is the first town you'll come to. The ride takes about five hours from Arequipa. The road takes you through the Reserva Nacional Aguada Blanca y Salinas and over the Patapampa Pass where at 4,825 meters you can view nearly the entire Valley of Volcanoes. The road is only paved about half of the way; going toward the Patapampa Pass is dirt, but has been graded and smoothed out. The last quarter of the ride is rocky. Most everyone going to Colca Canyon will experience altitude problems along the way, so bring plenty of water. Some of the nicer hotels will have oxygen tanks.
Taxis are a good way to go from town to town if long hikes or mountain biking isn't your thing. Taxis line up around the Plaza de Armas in Chivay. Most rides will cost S/15-S/20.