It doesn't get better than this, at least not in Colca, and the former Orient-Express hotel is by far the most luxurious property around, with service and amenities to match. You can join cooking classes, baby-alpaca feedings, and familiarization tours of the vegetable garden, and—for an additional fee—activities such as fly-fishing, horseback riding, hiking, and spa treatments can be arranged. Thatch-roof bungalows have spectacular views over the silvery Río Colca
and each has an outdoor terrace with private hot-springs tubs and an open-fire pit. Rooms are bright and comfortable, with leather armchairs and wrought-iron beds piled with elegant bedding. The smooth stone floors are heated, and deep bathtubs are beneath skylights for after-dark soaking and stargazing, though you can get an even better view from the outdoor showers. The Novo Andino restaurant serves creative fare using vegetables from the garden.