Perhaps the best food around, and the best pillows, too at this rustic thatched-roof hotel that's a great economical choice. Owned by the same folks of Casa de Mi Abuela in Arequipa, its main lodge is cozy, the restaurant specializes in local fare, such as the alpaca barbecue, and there's a good bar. The rooms are simple bungalows with standard beds and excellent bedding. On the north rim in Coporaque, it's very peaceful. Horseback riding and hikes can be arranged daily.