Hiking
Hiking is the only way to really experience the Colca Canyon. Bring lots of water (the valley has water, but it's more expensive, as it's "imported" from Arequipa), sunscreen, a hat, good hiking shoes, high-energy snacks, and sugar or coca leaves to alleviate altitude sickness. And layer your clothes—one minute the wind may be fierce and the next you may be sweltering in the strong sun.
Pick up a copy of Pachamama's excellent free Trekking Map of the Colca Canyon before striking off from Cabanaconde. The map has in-depth itineraries for both single and multiday hikes.
Along the canyon: Along the south side of the canyon, it's possible to do an easy hike from the observation points between Cruz del Condor, the other viewpoint Cruz del Cura, and Pinchollo. Paths are along the canyon rim most of the way; however, in some places you have to walk along the road. The closer to Cruz del Condor you are, the better the paths and lookouts get.
Another short hike, but more uphill, is on the north rim starting in Coporaque. At the Plaza de Armas, in the corner to the left of the church, you'll see an archway. Go through the archway, take a right uphill, and you'll be on the trail, which goes from wide to narrow but is defined. Following the trail up for about an hour, you'll come to ancient burial tombs (look down) with actual skeletons. The trail climbs up a cliff, which overlooks the valley. It's about a two-hour hike to the top, and, in some spots, it is very steep, and the rocks are crumbly. After the tombs, the path becomes confusing and splits in many directions.
Into the canyon: Trails into the canyon are many but rough. You don't necessarily need a guide, but if you prefer one, several adventure-tour operators provide government-certified hiking guides. Local guides are also easily found but may not speak much English. Packages range from two- to eight-day treks. The Cabanaconde area is the entry point for most of these.
The most popular multiday hike is the three-day/two-night trek. Starting at Pampa San Miguel, about 20 minutes (on foot) east of Cabanaconde, the trail to San Juan Chuccho (one of the larger villages along the river) begins. The steep slope has loose gravel, passes 3,400-meter-high (11,155-foot-high) Mirador de San Miguel, and takes about four hours. In San Juan Chuccho, sleeping options are family-run hostels or a campground. Day two consists of hiking on fairly even terrain through the small villages of Tapay, Coshnirwa, and Malata before crossing the river and into the lush green village of Sangalle, or as locals call it, the "oasis", a mini paradise along the Río Colca, with hot springs and waterfalls. On day three, you'll hike four to five hours uphill to the rim and arrive in Cabanaconde by lunch. Otherwise, you can divert west via the Mirador de Apacheta to Belen, and from there either proceed south via Pacila to the hot springs at Llahuar (from where a path returns directly to Cabanaconde, taking about five hours one way), or stick to the western trail and walk for roughly seven hours up to Fure. One hour farther west is the beautiful Huaruro Waterfall and the end of the trail. It takes roughly eight hours to return to Cabanaconde via Sangalle from here.
It's not recommended to hike alone here. So many paths are in this area that it can be overwhelming to even the most experienced trekkers.
Tour Operators in Arequipa
For the standard one- or two-day tours of Colca Canyon most agencies pool their customers, so quality varies little.
Carlos Zárate Adventures. You can hire Carlos Zárate and his hiking and mountain guides for all types of treks, including the more difficult ones, in the region. Guides speak Spanish, English, and French. Cl. Jerusalén 505A, Arequipa, Arequipa. 054/202–461; www.zarateadventures.com. From S/180.
Colca Trek. With more than 30 years of experience in adventure tours in the area, Vlado Soto is a pioneer of Colca Canyon trekking. Passionate about outdoor excursions, Vlado is constantly out there himself, checking the routes and investigating new trails. Colca Trek specializes in longer trekking tours, as well as day-trips, city tours, rafting excursions, and mountain biking. You can also get topographical maps of the entire region in the company's office. Cl. Jerusalén 401-B, Arequipa, Arequipa. 054/206–217; www.colcatrek.com.pe. From S/285.
Condor Travel. This full service travel agency is aimed at upscale, older travelers with basic tours in all parts of the country. They'll also make hotel and flight reservations. Calle General Moran #118 OF.17 , Claustros de la Compañia, Arequipa, Arequipa. 051/615–3000; www.condortravel.com. From S/40.
Giardino. Since 1995, Giardino Tours has been running tours all over the region, building up a reliable infrastructure and keeping current on any new developments in the area. They have received various awards for providing quality service. Cl. Jerusalén 604-A, Arequipa, Arequipa. 054/200–100; www.giardinotours.com. From S/90.
Land Adventures. Travelers interested in multiday trekking trips of Colca Canyon, El Misti, and Chachani and other adventure tours are catered to by Land Adventures. They'll also set up the standard Colca daytrips or overnights, mountain biking, and rafting. Residencial La Peña A-20, Sachaca, Arequipa, Arequipa. 054/665–548; www.landadventures.net. From S/150.
