Pisco

Lending its name to the clear brandy that is Peru's favorite tipple and a source of fierce national pride, the coastal town of Pisco and its surroundings hold a special place in the national psyche. It's the point where the Argentinean hero, General San Martín, landed with his troops to fight for Peru's freedom from Spanish rule. It's the city where pisco, the clear grape alcohol that is the country's national drink, was invented, and it's also an important sea port that had its heyday during the 1920s, when guano (bird droppings used as fertilizer) from the nearby Islas Ballestas were worth nearly as much as gold.

Modern-day Pisco shows little evidence of its celebrated past. Instead, what you'll find is a city struggling to get back on its feet after the disaster of August 2007, when a force 8 earthquake shook the town for three minutes. Disregard for planning permission, illegal building extensions, and the use of adobe (mud brick) as the main building material had left a vast number of Pisco's buildings unable to withstand the quake, and hundreds of lives were lost as homes, churches, and hospitals collapsed during the tremor.

Undoubtedly a town that's had more than its fair share of hardship and natural disaster, 2007 was not the first time Pisco has suffered from earthquake damage. The city stands where it does today because an earthquake in 1687, and pirate attacks in its aftermath, destroyed so many structures that viceroy Count de la Monclova decided to give up on the old location and start afresh where the city lies today.

Modern-day Pisco is not giving up, however, and the town is working hard to rebuild itself (we hope with more stringent building standards in place). For travelers, it's still the best jumping-off spot from which to explore the surrounding region's wildlife, scenery, and wines. National Pisco Day, the third Saturday in September, draws thousands to the drink's birthplace. For travelers wishing to assist Pisco's recovery, there are numerous opportunities to volunteer. While organizations active in the area vary over time, a good place to start looking for current opportunities is www.idealist.org. Even those without the time to volunteer should know that every Nuevo Sol spent in local businesses is contributing to the region's economy.

Getting Around

Transport within Pisco is generally not necessary: the central area is easily covered on foot, although those venturing out at night should take a taxi. If you arrive by bus you may find yourself dropped off at the Pisco turn-off on the Panamericana rather than in town itself—ask for a direct service. If you do end up disembarking on the highway there are taxis waiting, which make the run into town for around S/5. Drivers who work this route have a bad reputation for taking travelers only to hotels from which they receive a commission—always insist on being taken to the destination of your choice and ignore anyone who tells you that the hotel has closed, moved, or changed its name.