Quinua

The Battle of Ayacucho, the decisive battle against Spain in the Peruvian War of Independence, took place on the Pampas de Quinua grasslands 37 km (23 mi) northeast of the city, near the village of Quinua, on December 9, 1824. Today a white obelisk rises 44 meters (144 feet) above the pampas to commemorate how the locals firmly cemented Peru's independence here when they defeated the Spanish. You can follow the surrounding events through exhibits in the compact Quinua museum (Plaza de Armas. S/5. Mon.-Sat. 10-1 and 3-5) Come the first week in December to celebrate the town's role in Peru's democracy, when you'll see extravagant local performances, parties, parades, and crafts fairs. There's a little local market on Sunday. Quinua is one of the craft centers of Peru. It's best known for its ceramics, and you'll find various examples on the windowsills and rooftops of the adobe houses. Miniature churches, delicately painted with ears of corn or flowers, are frequently seen symbols of good luck. The ubiquitous bulls are figures once used in festivities associated with cattle-branding ceremonies. Tours of Huari, Vilcashuaman, and Vischongo often include Quinua, but you can also get here by bus.