Huánuco

At first glance Huánuco is just a picturesque collection of colonial buildings and churches along the Río Huallaga amid rocky, forested mountains: an archetypal Spanish settlement, but history runs far deeper here. Evidence of some of Peru's earliest human settlements, and some of the oldest ruins in the country, were found nearby at Lauricocha and Kotosh. Pre-Inca ruins have turned up throughout these mountains, notably at Tantamayo and Garu. Huánuco was an Inca stronghold and a convenient stopover on their route from Cusco north to Cajamarca. Thousands of Inca relics litter the surrounding pampas.

Huánuco's cool, 1,894-meter (6,212-foot) elevation makes for pleasant winter days and crisp nights, but in the rainy summer the town is just low enough to become immersed in the thick mountain fog. The Spanish-style architecture reflects the town's 1539 founding, and later buildings tell the story of Huánuco's importance as a cultural hub. Still, the original Peruvian traditions run deep, particularly during the annual Huánuco anniversary celebrations. Mountain hikes, swims in natural pools, and dips in nearby hot springs add to the area's natural appeal.

Getting Around

Most of Huánuco can be seen on foot or via short, cheap cab rides. A guide is recommended for exploring beyond the city. The area is a major coca-growing region and farmers are leery about strange characters hanging about. Tours from several agencies on the Plaza de Armas will bring you to the major sites within a few hours of the city for under S/50. David Figueroa Fernandini Airport is 8 km (5 mi) away from Huánuco.