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Huancayo
It's not hard to see how the modern city of Huancayo, which has close to 260,000 residents, was once the capital of pre-Inca Huanca (Wanka) culture. In the midst of the Andes and straddling the verdant Río Mantaro valley, the city has been a source of artistic inspiration from the days of the earliest settlers, and has thrived as the region's center for culture and wheat farming. A major agricultural hub, Huancayo was linked by rail with the capital in 1908, making it an endpoint on the world's highest train line. Although it's a large town, its little shops, small restaurants, blossoming plazas, and broad colonial buildings give it a comfortable, compact feel.
Huancayo has also been a stronghold for the toughest Peruvian tribes, including the Huanca, who out-fought both the Inca and the Spanish. Little wonder that Peru finally gained independence in this region, near Quinua, in 1824. Still, the Spanish left their mark with the town's collection of hacienda-style homes and businesses, most with arching windows and fronted by brick courtyards with carefully groomed gardens. For an overview of the city, head northeast 4 km (2½ mi) on Giráldez, 2 km (1 mi) past Cerro de la Libertad park, to the eroded sandstone towers in the hillsides at Torre-Torre.
The drive from Lima to Huancayo is breathtaking, with the road rising to more than 4,700 meters (15,416 feet) before sliding down to the valley's 3,272-meter (10,731-foot) elevation. As you enter the city, four-lane Calle Real is jammed with traffic and crammed with storefronts—but look more closely and you'll see the elegant churches and colorful markets tucked into its side streets, hallmarks of local life that make the city so charming. Women with long black braids beneath black-felt hats still dress in multitiered skirts and blouses with mantas (bright, square, striped cloths) draped over their shoulders. Note the intricate weavings—particularly the belts with the famous train worked into the pattern.
Getting Around
Although Huancayo is big, most of the areas of interest to travelers are within walking distance of the plaza. The exceptions are the craft villages in the Mantaro Valley. Combi vans circle the city streets looking for passengers for the 20-40-minute rides to each town or you can take a comprehensive valley tour from any of the travel agencies in Huancayo S/50. Taxis are another option as they're quite economical.
