Huancavelica

This scenic town is sliced by the Río Huancavelica, which divides the commercial district on the south and the residential area in the north. The road is rough, but the surroundings are beautiful, a mix of quiet, clapboard-style villages fronting vast sheep pastures and snowcapped mountains. If you have a good map and your own equipment excellent hiking opportunities are in the surrounding mountains.

A lack of good roads leading to the town has kept the Andean city away from the winds of change. You'll still see traditional costumes worn by women in the markets and shops and the narrow, cobbled streets are still lined with elegant, colonial-style mansions and 16th-century churches. Only the raggedy and jam-packed train to Huancayo keeps Huancavelica connected to other mountain towns. Residents from all over the region crowd the sprawling Sunday market, as well as the daily food market at the corner of Muñoz and Barranca.

Most crafts and clothing are made in the villages on the outskirts of Huancavelica, and you're welcome to visit the artisans' shops. Other neighboring explorations include the viewpoints from Potaqchiz, a short stroll up the hill from San Cristóbal. Thermal baths are on the hillside across from town.

Getting Around

The town is quite compact and nearly everything of interest is confined to a few short streets in the center. Few roads lead to Huancavelica; many mountain villages can only be reached by foot. A good, albeit steep, path starts from behind the rail station and has pleasant views of the city and surrounding mountains. The altitude is a common problem to visitors here, so take it slow and drink plenty of bottled water.

The best place for contacts on local culture in Huancavelica is Instituto Nacional de Cultura (Plaza San Juan de Dios), which offers language, music, and dance lessons, cultural talks, and details on historic sights and regional history. It's open Monday through Saturday 10-1 and 3-7.