The name of this attractive eatery is a Quechua word for "mischievous child," which explains the decor of antique toys and eclectic art. It also refers to the playful variations on Peruvian cuisine, such as gnocchi served in a huancaina (spicy cheese) sauce, or panko-crusted prawns with a passion fruit–ginger-pisco sauce. Start with cream of artichoke soup with smoked trout and fennel, or grilled octopus in a tomato vinagrette atop mashed potatoes. Desserts are equally inventive; try pineapple picarones (fried dounuts) with fig syrup and coconut ice cream, or carob raisin cream pastries with an elderberry sauce.
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