Chef Gastón Acurio's reinvention of the traditional cebichería is not only one of Lima's most popular lunch spots, but also the model for a franchise now found in six cities, including San Francisco. The decor is minimalist, with plenty of rock, bamboo, and palms along one wall, but the menu is kaleidoscopic. Start by sharing a desgustación de cebiche (various types of fish or seafood marinated in lime juice) or a chalana de causas (various mashed-potato
appetizers with seafood and mayonnaise fillings). Then try the picante de mariscos (sautéed seafood in a spicy cream sauce), pez diablo al estilo nikkei (rockfish fillets fried and topped with an Asian sauce), or one of the other catches of the day. The servings tend to be large, so you may want to share. The place doesn't take reservations, so arrive before 1 or you'll wait an hour for a table.