On a sunny afternoon the view of the ocean and the graceful paragliders from the upper floors of this restaurant is as good as the food. But the real excitement is on the platters streaming out of the kitchen, such as the tiradito criollo (thin slices of marinated fish covered in a yellow pepper sauce), or conchitas a la parmesana (scallops in shells smothered in toasted cheese). Piqueos, platters with various dishes, are fun to share. You can have
your sole or sea bass cooked one of 10 different ways, including al ajillo (sautéed with garlic), a la Chorrillana (in a tomato, onion, and chile sauce), or en salsa de mariscos (in a seafood sauce). Arrive before 1 or call ahead to reserve a window table.