This isn't the kind of old-fashioned café that has been gussied up to attract tourists. It looks pretty much the same as when two Italian brothers opened for business in 1905. A huge mirror hangs over the curved wooden bar. You enter through swinging doors, and a waiter in a long white apron waves you over to an empty table. The menú economico, which rings up for less than two bucks, is one of the city's great bargains. With three courses, you certainly won't go away hungry.
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