This isn't the kind of old-fashioned café that has been gussied up to attract tourists. In fact, nobody seems to have done much straightening up at all since two Italian brothers opened for business in 1905. But that's the charm. You enter through swinging doors, and a waiter in a long white apron waves you over to an empty table. There's even a huge mirror hanging over the curved wooden bar. The menú economico, which rings up for less than two bucks, is one of the city's great bargains. With three courses, you certainly won't go away hungry.
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