While this grande dame retains the grandeur of the days when guests included Ernest Hemingway, it lacks some of the comforts and conveniences offered by newer hotels. As you enter the marble-columned rotunda, your eyes are drawn upward to the magnificent stained-glass dome. Off to one side is the wood-paneled bar, which remains quite popular. The tables on the terrace are the perfect place to enjoy a pisco sour or a meal. The rooms are spacious, but a bit dog-eared. The hotel compensates for the worn upholstery by charging very reasonable rates. Be sure to pay the extra $10 for a suite in front for an unforgettable view of Plaza San Martín.