Lima Feature

Popular weekend destinations are peñas, bars that offer música criolla, a breathless combination of Spanish and African influences. Peñas that cater to tourists, however, offer a more varied show that includes folk music and dancing from the country's coastal and Andean regions. Peñas that cater to locals start their show at 10:30 and continue until the wee hours, whereas the tourist peñas start at around 8.

La Dama Juana. The most tourist-friendly peña, La Dama Juana offers 90-minute shows in an atmospheric Spanish colonial-style building in Barranco. Performances start at 8:30, and the traditional Peruvian buffet is presented at 7:30. Av. República de Panama 230, Barranco, Lima, 04. 1/248-7547. www.ladamajuana.com.pe.

La Candelaria. Vying for both the local and tourist markets, La Candelaria is located in a lovely old building in Barranco. Shows combining the folklore of the coast, mountains, and jungle start at 10:30 on Friday and Saturday night. There's a cover charge for the show, and food and drink are à la carte. Av. Bolognesi 292, Barranco, Lima, 04. 1/247-1314. www.lacandelariaperu.com.

Junius. In the DoubleTree Hotel, Junius has dinner shows featuring traditional music and dances of the coast and the mountains. It's geared mostly to tourists, with shows nightly from 8 to 10:30. DoubleTree Hotel, Av. Independencia 125, Miraflores, Lima, 18. 1/617-1000. www.junius.com.pe.