Pena Party

Pena Party

The most popular weekend destinations are peñas, bars that offer música criolla, a breathless combination of Peruvian, African, and other influences. The music is accompanied by flashily costumed dancers whipping themselves into a frenzy. Depending on the venue, these shows can be exhilarating or just plain exhausting. Ask locals to recommend one not geared to tourists. Most peñas start the show at 10:30 or 11 and continue until the wee hours of the morning.

Vying for the tourist market is La Candelaria (Av. Bolognesi 292, Barranco. 01/247-1314), which is recognizable from the fiery torches flanking the front door. In the main room, the dancers have plenty of room to show off their steps. The facade may be dull, but the attitude is anything but at De Rompe y Raja (Jr. Manuel Segura 127, Barranco. 01/247-3271). Slightly off the beaten path, this peña attracts mostly locals to its shows with música negra, a black variant of música criolla.

Junius (Av. Independencia 125, Miraflores. 01/617-1000) has dinner shows featuring traditional dances. It's geared mostly to tourists. An older crowd heads to Sachún (Av. del Ejército 657, Miraflores. 01/441-4465). The draw, it seems, are the sentimental favorites played by the band.