El Centro

In the colonial era, Lima was the seat of power for the viceroyalty of Peru. It held sway over a swath of land that extended from Panama to Chile. With power came money, as is evident by the grand scale on which everything was built. The finely carved doorways of many private homes reach two or three stories high. At least half a dozen churches would be called cathedrals in any other city. And the Plaza de Armas, the sprawling main square, is spectacular.

But history has not always been kind to the neighborhood known as El Centro. Earthquakes struck in 1687 and 1746, leveling many of the buildings surrounding the Plaza de Armas. Landmarks, such as the Iglesia de San Augustín, were nearly destroyed by artillery fire in skirmishes that have plagued the capital. But more buildings are simply the victims of neglect. It's heartbreaking to see the wall on a colonial-era building buckling, or an intricately carved balcony beyond repair. But the city government has made an effort to restore its historic center. After years of decline, things are changing for the better.

An unhurried visit to the historic district's main attractions takes a full day, with at least an hour devoted to the Museo de Arte Nacional and the Museo de la Inquisición. Even if you're short on time, don't bypass the guided tour of the underground catacombs of the Iglesia de San Francisco. Also, you'll want to take a breather on the cathedral steps, as the locals do.

Getting Around

Chances are you're staying in Miraflores or San Isidro, which are a quick taxi ride from El Centro. Since taxis take the expressway, you're downtown in 10 minutes. Much slower, but more interesting, is taking a bus. The regular-size micros and the van-size combis travel along crowded Avenida Arequipa. The journey takes a half-hour, more or less. Once you're there, the only way to get around is by foot. No problem, as the historic area is rather compact.